Finaly

[Heo]

I dont know if there is some difference in the fuel from
here and USA. But we dont have that big problem with
the valve seats here . Some says that there is some other
additiv but i dont know. If there is problem with the seats
i buy aluminium heads. I traded this heads for some
Cruis o matic parts, And the work on them for an old
Volvo so i dont realy have any money in them so.....

[427Fastback]

I am in Canada...The small blocks I have done have not suffered the same fate.After finding the carnage on the 427 I pulled the heads back off my 289 and they were fine,same goes for a 351C I built 20 years ago...My experience says unleaded and FE's don't get along..I do not have a answer as to why...

[Heo]

I tore down the 390 PI that I'm now rebuilding and there
was no problem with the seats or any signs of micro welding
on the valves on those heads  and i have
run this engine for 10 years
The guides was k-lined and worn out so i used this pair of
heads. And now i have stainless valves and that should help

[cjshaker]

Yes, C4 heads do not have a lot of meat on the short side of the exhaust for hardened seats, unless a very thin seat is used and very careful machine work is done. I used standard size seats on the exhausts on my C4 heads that I ran in my '68 Highboy, for over 20 years. When first done, I was very concerned about longevity with about 1/4 of the seat having very little, if any, support; but the heads and seats still look fine and will be going on a 445 stroker I'm putting together.

I guess I'm lucky, I've never experienced a sunken seat on an FE. I only used them in my truck because I knew it would be used hard and pull heavy loads for extended periods of time. Seen plenty of small blocks have issues back in the day, but never had it happen to an FE. KNOCK ON WOOD. I use a low lead gas in my 427, so I don't expect any issues with its stock seats either.

[427Fastback]

I have no doubt that the chemistry of fuel varies from country to country.Must be our Canadian gas as I haven't seen any good FE heads in a long time...

I have a set of CJ heads here with the hit and miss support on the(hardened) seats.They were running that way when I got them and I am reuseing them but not liking it..I kept the cam small (268H) and stayed light on the spring pressure..

The 427 gets aluminum heads this time round..

[Heo]

My wife gave me an early Christmas present  today
The correct aircleaner for the PI engine with the chrome
under hood option

[BruceS]

That looks like a high-quality item!  How is the rest of the build coming?

[Heo]

Well life happened so no progress
But any day now is the planets lined up
so i can do some work on my own things

Yes the quality on the A.C is nice .From Tony
D Branda  some one on this forum sent a link
So thanks who ever that was

[Heo]

Some progress. Installed the timing chain and degreed the cam
today . With a Cloyes timing set i was able to get it to 106 DEG.
so the old set was of

[Heo]

Made some progress today. The intake was
Uggly around the boltholes

[Heo]

I made a spotfacer out of a 12mm Allen head bolt that i cut some groves in with the angle grinder
and grinded so i got a cutting angle

[Heo]

First i put it in the cordless drill but the
Speed was to High so the alu wanted to smear
Then i put a Allen bit in the ratchet wrench
And got a much better finish

[Heo]

Then i primed the pan, heads and some other stuff with PPG Epoxi.I have a teori, Cast iron sometimes like to
sweath oil through pores and lift the paint. Since this primer is not much more than dyed epoxiglue maby it
glues the pores shut,just a theori
And gave them the black topcoat PPG D 721 Deep black leftover from when i painted my AJS 500

[cjshaker]

Pretty slick idea on the allen head bolt, Heo. And epoxy primers do in fact do a nice job of sealing up the pores and keep the paint from lifting, but I think it is most important to make sure the iron is scrubbed/washed good to get that oil out of the pores. I used the old DP40 epoxy primer on my old 390, and it still looked very good after 20+ years, only starting to lift on the machined edges where oil could penetrate underneath. That truck was driven daily in the winter and often all year long. I could always just take a rag and wipe it down and it looked great. The paint lifting on the edges took a very long time and was fairly minor.

By the way, I'll get back to you within the next day or so about that expansion tank. I apologize for it being so long.

[Heo]

Yes i was inspecting the intake and saw i needed to spotface around the hole.
And had no suitable spotfacer. Then i saw this Mercedes Diesel headbolt in that
bucket with leftover bolts i bet all you guys have 
 12mm so it had reasonable guide in the 1/2 inch hole 12.9 grade so its pretty hard,
 cut the alu fine.
I prime everything with DP40 Epoxy i love that primer
I boiled the block in lye. I cut the top of a 200 liter oil barrel put it on some bricks
and made a fire under it voila! redneck hot tank dunked the block in with the tractor
and let it boil for the rest of the day. Then i dunked the block in the river to rinse of the lye
 I round of sharp edges where its possible to get a thicker layer of paint i have found out
that paint have an tendency to creep away from sharp corners

I have been busy with so much other things so no reason to to worry about the tank
But now I'm back on track so it would be nice to have the tank
Now out in the shop and light up the wood stove and start to assemble the heads