Finaly

[Heo]

Milled the windagetray


And deburred it with a handfile

[Heo]

Here is for you Big Blue Iron

Its just a ring that's conical on the inside. First i chucked it up in the lathe
and trued it up indicating on the outside. And machined the end flat then i machined the inside
to the cyl dia. That way you end up 100 percent in line with the cylinder then i turned it around
the other way. Pressed the flat side against the chuck indicated the inside and machined the cone
don't remember the degrees but i haven't touched the topslide since so i can check that later today
Four degrees is what i used, works fine just push with a hammer handle
You can see in the pick that i left 1/2 inch a ring with the cyl dia in the bottom easier to start the
piston in the cyl that way

[ScotiaFE]

Not sure if you have ever run those coated pistons.
The coating will turn the oil black almost immediately.
The oil is perfectly fine it will just always be black.
Just something to keep in mind when you start running it.
I've used a couple of sets of those pistons and that's what they do.
My late model Mustang has black oil too. Must be a similar coating.

[Heo]

No its my first set of coated pistons. but i suspected that

[WConley]

Re:  Not building an engine in a long time.

Heo - You'll be fine.  You obviously pay attention to detail and it's obvious that your mechanical aptitude is more than up for the job.  Just don't put the cam plug in the wrong way and remember to put that little gallery plug in back of the distributor hole    Any other stuff that comes up is easily answered by the fine folks here!

- Bill

[Heo]

Oh I'm not worried I'm not up to it it just take more time
And findig special tool i haven't used in 20 -30 years

[Heo]

I got an SMS today  that my heads is ready. So i go get them
tomorrow

[BigBlueIron]

Here is for you Big Blue Iron

Its just a ring that's conical on the inside. First i chucked it up in the lathe
and trued it up indicating on the outside. And machined the end flat then i machined the inside
to the cyl dia. That way you end up 100 percent in line with the cylinder then i turned it around
the other way. Pressed the flat side against the chuck indicated the inside and machined the cone
don't remember the degrees but i haven't touched the topslide since so i can check that later today
Four degrees is what i used, works fine just push with a hammer handle
You can see in the pick that i left 1/2 inch a ring with the cyl dia in the bottom easier to start the
piston in the cyl that way

Thank you sir! Good idea about leaving 1/2" on the bottom, I hadn't thought of that.

[Heo]

Your wellkom Glad if i was to any help

[cjshaker]

Glad to see everything is coming along nicely, finally. I like the ball bearing idea, it keeps the stud from cocking in the threads.
I'm pretty sure Ford used that hole in the pick-up because of cold weather starts and sludge build-up that was common before detergent oils became available. What I don't understand is that everybody gets riled up about an open hole in the oil pick-up, but nobody seems to care that their filters have a bypass that allows the same thing to happen to oil entering the engine. I consider that even worse because if the oil pump ties up, you'll know it quickly. If that crud gets past the filter, it will destroy the bearings and crank and you won't know anything until it's too late. That's the main reason I went with the Canton oil filter, no bypass.

What intake are you planning on using?

[Heo]

Yes i think that hole is for situations like that thick oil,
sludge etc. A new one is perfectly fine on a stock engine
but many just wash what they see on a old one without
taking it apart. And thats whats inside a used one.
Since im using a HV pump i want more area on the pickup
and the strainer is 5x the pickup tube i think

On this engine im using a Streetmaster that the headguy
ported and matched up with the heads

[Heo]

He said the runner in the head at the throat was big enough for my street engine.
So he just smothed it out and ported the pocket around the valveguide and reworked
the shortside radius and matched up the port to the bigger valves

[BruceS]

Are you running hardened valve seats in the exhaust?  Just curious. 

[Heo]

No hardened seats. I figure that with the low milage
each year it will hold for several years. And i am a bit
sceptical about putting seats in those heads and get
enough support under the seat in one area

[427Fastback]

I would at least run lead additive.The last 3 FE's I pulled the heads on (390,428 and my 427)all were hurt bad from unleaded fuel.The 390 heads were scrapped,the CJ heads (as do most) needed 8 seats and the iron heads on my 427 were destroyed in only 17,000 miles..
I thought it would take much longer to hurt the seats but I was wrong....