My 427 SOHC Build..... Finally the time has come!

[jayb]

Not sure I understand the question, but if the pointer for the degree wheel is in the exact same place as the pointer for the harmonic balancer, then yes, they should read the same.  If not, then they won't read the same.  Do you have a pointer installed for the harmonic balancer, or just a temporary pointer for the degree wheel?

[cobracammer]

OK the harmonic balancer is marked.  it has degrees before TDC and then it has a TDC mark and then degrees after.

Now the Degree wheel which was bolted to the front of the harmonic balancer is also marked with TDC.  After I found TDC on the Degree wheel, I realized that the TDC mark on the degree wheel does not match up to the TDC mark on the Harmonic balancer.  Do they need to be?  I cant rotate the harmonic balancer so that the TDC mark on it lines up with the actual TDC on the degree wheel because it has the keyway

I have a pointer for the harmonic balancer, but its not installed yet.  I only have the temporary pointer for the degree wheel installed currently.  So, if I install the real pointer, and rotate the crank around so that the real pointer is at TDC on the harmonic Balancer, then the temporary pointer should also be aligned with the Degree wheel TDC at that exact point?

[ScotiaFE]

Some balancers are off by a bit "ATI" and you have to adjust the pointer to match the TDC of the balancer.

[cobracammer]

I have a pioneer balancer.  I think I understand now.  I will try that when I get home.  If its off, I think jegs sells a sliding/adjustable pointer so it can be fine tuned a bit in either direction.

Also, when I got home last night, I decided to try my luck tightening a few bolts in which I was pretty sure the threads in the block were not quite right.  The bottom tensioner bolt (I think its a 1/2" diameter bolt... It snugged down, but I didn't torque it.  the top tensioner bolt stripped almost immediately.  I decided to follow jays advice and install a stud with epoxy.  I took a 7/16" bolt that was about 2" in length (so I would have a little extra to work with.)  I cut off the bolt top and used the 7/16 die to thread all the way up the shaft.  Once I had the stud, I mixed up a batch of epoxy and threaded it into the hole.  I let it dry all last night and tonight when I get home, I am going to put on a 7/16 heavy duty grade 8 washer and a nut and try torqueing it.

Feeling good so far about the build.  definitely been taking my time and I hope it will pay off when I go to have it dyno'd.  It is definitely a monster engine.

[jayb]

OK the harmonic balancer is marked.  it has degrees before TDC and then it has a TDC mark and then degrees after.

Now the Degree wheel which was bolted to the front of the harmonic balancer is also marked with TDC.  After I found TDC on the Degree wheel, I realized that the TDC mark on the degree wheel does not match up to the TDC mark on the Harmonic balancer.  Do they need to be?  I cant rotate the harmonic balancer so that the TDC mark on it lines up with the actual TDC on the degree wheel because it has the keyway

They don't need to be lined up.  All you need is for the temporary pointer that points to the degree wheel to show TDC on the degree wheel at actual TDC, and all your cam timing will be correct.

Its too bad about that stripped bolt, and just for the record I would have rather you put a helicoil in there, rather than epoxied in a stud.  The epoxied stud will work, but now you are limited to how loose you can make the chain with the tensioner installed.  With the nut on the stud loose, you can only loosen the chain so far before you run out of travel on the slot in the tensioner.  Not a big deal though.

I wonder why that hole is stripped?  It should not have stripped that easily.  And did you check to see that the two 9/16 bolt holes had helicoils installed?  Did you try to torque those two large bolts?

[cobracammer]

Hi Jay,

I didn't torque it, but I tightened the large tensioner bolt past the "scary" point where I thought it was stripping, and it got tighter.  Seems fine, but I will torque it for final assembly.  The top tensioner bolt (which is now a stud) didn't even get a chance to be tight before the threads gave out.  It was definitely odd.  Maybe just a bad tap job on a few of the holes?  In all honesty, I would rather epoxy studs in any place where the threads give out (assuming there are any others), rather than drill and re-tap for the helicoils.

My thinking is if the stud ever gives out, then I have a 2nd option which would be the Helicoil.  I definitely now have a fear torqueing any bolt on the front of this engine (just because of this one experience).

I see your point with the tensioner loosening issue, but I have the worst luck stripping threads in past experiences.  I think I'm jinxed for sure.

[cobracammer]

I think I just realized why Jay....  when you wrote in the last post, you said that the large bolt holes are 9/16 bolts?  I am using 1/2 bolts.  The 1/2 bolts seemed to be the correct size....  are you sure about the 9/16?  I can always stop by Homedepot on the way home tonight.

[jayb]

I'm going by memory, and I thought they were 9/16" bolts, but I could be wrong.  I will try to check tonight.

You didn't put a 3/8" bolt in the top hole by mistake, did you?  Pretty sure that one is a 7/16" bolt...

[cobracammer]

No definitely used a 7/16th for the top hole.  The top hole was the one that stripped almost immediately without even becoming really that snug. 

[jayb]

I just checked and the two larger bolts are definitely 9/16", so that's why your 1/2" bolt doesn't feel right in there.  I took a half inch bolt and it screwed in, but was very loose.  Get some 9/16 bolts and you should be all set.

[cobracammer]

Thanks for checking Jay.  I ordered the 9/16" bolts last night. On a separate note, last night there wasn't much progress (as I need the correct bolts before I can seal up the timing cover.  I took the opportunity to bolt on the cam retainers.  I didn't have small enough bolts, so I cut down bolts with the correct threads.  (If you look at the pictures posted earlier, the bolts I was using while timing were too long so I put 4 thick washers on to make up the difference.  The 4 cam bolt holes go all the way through the cam, so if the bolt is a little too long, you would be able to turn the camshaft.  I cut down 4 bolts per cam, put a little red Loctite on each and "snugged" them up.  The cam center bolt got a little red Loctite as well and also a thin grade 8 washer.

Also temporarily installed the timing pointer to the front of the timing cover.  When I turned the crank over with the degree wheel still attached, the Pointer lined up with TDC on the balancer when the wire pointer lined up with the TDC on the degree wheel.  I, for the life of me, don't understand why I couldn't get my head wrapped around that.  LOL  But luckily enough they line up almost exactly.
While awaiting the correct 9/16 bolts, I think tonight I will take off the checker springs and install the real springs back as well as put on all the remaining rockers (and set the valve lash specified).

[cobracammer]

Ok guys. Tonight in the garage of dreams, I started on the spring replacement on cylinders #1 and #6 as well as installing the rockers.  Started by removing the checker springs on the passenger side head. Easy enough as it was done by hand once the rocker installed for timing was slide aside. Intake valve spring went on fairly easy with the universal valve spring tool. Exhaust valve .... Different story. I actually had to use the bench top grinder to remove some of the tool so I could get the retainers on. Pain in the ass.... But on a lucky note, I saw the spark plug hole beforehand and thought to myself that my luck would be a retainer would fall right down into the combustion chamber. I plugged it with a clean piece of butcher paper before getting started and guess where the first retainer the popped off landed???  LOL. Thank god I did that!

Removed the caps and slid on a rocker for each spring. Rockers were slid off the lobes so I could bolt caps back on. Only one the couldn't was the #4 cylinder as its trapped between towers. Pulled the adjusted all the way back and turned the engine over so those lobes were on the heel and slid over. Tightened caps down to 35 ft lbs on center 2 nuts and outer 2 ( smaller) nuts got 20 ft lbs. will do driver side tomorrow and hopefully correct 9/16" bolts for tensioner will be in tomorrow as well

[cobracammer]

Doesn't look like the bolts will arrive until monday. Was able to get the drivers side checker springs swapped out and the remaining rockers on ( slid to the side until I am ready to set the lash. More to come as it happens.

[cobracammer]

While I am still awaiting bolts, I took this opportunity to prep.  I took a large piece of cardboard and drew out a "rendering" of the front of the cammer engine on it.  I have to admit the artistic skills are still lacking.  I then punched small holes in each area on the cardboard that relates to a bolt hole for the installation of the front cover.  In realizing that the 427 SOHC service Manual has a parts list in the back, I went though it tried out the bolts for the correct holes.  Since I had a history of using "almost" the right size bolts, I thought it best that I ensure I have the exact bolt thread/length for each hole before I button up the timing cover for good.  I actually had every bolt combination except for the 4 bolts that hold the water pump to the cover/block (Didn't have the right length) and the one large bolt that relates to where the Alternator will mount to the cover/block (Manual says a length of 6.80, but they don't sell bolts in that length so I got a 7" bolt)....  I made sure each bolt fit the bolt hole before pushing it into the cardboard and I am not 100% positive I have all the right bolts for the final install.  I also plugged the front and back oil galleys on the heads with 1/4 pipe plugs (with tefalon sealer).  I am hoping by the first weekend in September to have it at the Dyno.  I will post pictures of the completed engine as soon as the bolts show up!

[cobracammer]

OK so last night I got home and the tensioner bolts I was waiting on were sitting on the front porch.  After installing the bolts (Correct bolts) now, It was on to sealing up the timing cover for the last time.  I took a clean paper towel land wiped down the backing plate a few times.  It was a little oily from the WD40 and assembly lube.  I wanted to make sure it was clean and dry for the last set of gaskets.
I wanted to make sure I got a secure seal, so I took the timing cover and laid it on the bench.  I installed the seal (Metal and rubber) that goes in where the crank snout sticks out.  It got a healthy rub down with oil.  After that, I laid out all of the associated gaskets that go on.  There were the 2 that go where the water pump is, there was 1 gasket that goes across the top of the timing cover, and there was one gasket for each side of the timing cover that goes from bottom to top following the curves of the "Y" shaped timing cover.  Once I had them all laid out, I used the TA-31 sealant.  I put a bead all the way down each gasket, and then with my finger, I wiped it so that the entire surface of the gasket had been covered.  then, I placed them on the timing cover and ensured that they were all exactly where they needed to be (according to the bolt holes).  I then pressed each one down to ensure the sealer / gasket was secure.  After about 5 minutes, I did the same thing to the exposed surface of the gaskets.... and then slid on the timing cover!  With the rivets ground down (Like Jay explained in his 519" build) the timing cover slides right into place using the stub cam as the guide.  With all of the correct bolts I organized the night before (poked into a drawing of the front of the engine in cardboard), I was able to button up the front cover in no time at all.  Blue Loctite was used on each bolt.  The only bolts I still do not have are the ones for the water pump and the one long one for the Alternator.

Before I called it a night, I reinstalled the heavy duty snap ring onto the stub cam.  I actually fashioned a device from a dampener puller tool.  I put 3 bolts into the device backwards (much like little legs) and they fit around the area on the front cover....  then I threaded in a 3" bolt through the middle of the puller and into the stub cam.....  a few turns later and the snap ring groove was accessible.  Then I installed the dampener space which I ordered from Survival motorsports a few years ago, and lastly installed the dampener for the last time!