My 427 SOHC Build..... Finally the time has come!

[cobracammer]

Alright.  On my way home, I stopped at Home depot just to double check on those bolts.  Low and behold, they had them.  So what I figured out is that the fuel pump gear takes the 3" bolt (I was too nervous to torque the bolt, so I just used the regular wrench to tighten it to a point where I felt comfortable (with loctite) as I was scared to strip the threads.

The tensioner was a 1/2"-13 X 3-1/2" long bolt.  Again tightened until I was comfortable as to not strip the threads.

I pulled all the caps on the heads and layed them out in order as to not get them confused.  Cleaned all of the journals in the heads, cleaned off the cam bearing shells, and wiped down the cam shafts (the cams shafts were the first part I purchased way back in the day!).  I placed assembly lube on each bearing half, and only placed the first cap on (with the upper bearing shell) and torqued to 35 Ft Lbs.  Same with the other side.  Of interest was the fact that on the driver side head, the 2nd bearing journal is not drilled with an oil passage, and does not have a related journal on the cam.... seems to be just for looks?  Had me stumped for a min until I  realized it was not drilled for oil.

Also, realized last night that the bearings I received with the gears from Precision Oil Pumps are all sealed bearings.  I think this means I don't need the oil squirters, because I am not sure now much good it would do me squirting oil on a sealed bearing.?

Anyway, tired and dirty.... see photos below.  Next step is to find TDC, but awaiting on an order from amazon for those tools....

[cobracammer]

This is the hole that cannot be reached once the front cover is on.  It also goes through the water jacket, so the threads got TA-31 sealer, under the washer, and then all around it once it was tightened down:

[turbohunter]

Still think you have big brass ones for doing a cammer.
Really great following along and learning.

[cobracammer]

Thank you.  Aside from the fear of screwing up, its actually really fun.

[KMcCullah]

Alright.  On my way home, I stopped at Home depot just to double check on those bolts.  Low and behold, they had them.  So what I figured out is that the fuel pump gear takes the 3" bolt (I was too nervous to torque the bolt, so I just used the regular wrench to tighten it to a point where I felt comfortable (with loctite) as I was scared to strip the threads.

The tensioner was a 1/2"-13 X 3-1/2" long bolt.  Again tightened until I was comfortable as to not strip the threads.

So these tapped holes that your worried about stripping. Do they not have Heli-coils or Keenserts installed in them?

[TimeWarpF100]

a project I could only dream of . . . Watching closely

[cobracammer]

I don't think so.  they are just tapped holes on the aluminum block.  If it was an Iron block, I would put the "monkey Paw" on them and torque them down, but with the aluminum, I am worried I will strip them.  Most of the rest of the block (heads, main caps, etc) uses studs.  I like these a lot better because you cant strip the threads  :0)

[KMcCullah]

Not to complicate an already complicated project here. In my opinion any large tapped hole in aluminum should have some type of threaded insert for additional strength. Especially anything associated with an engine and ESPECIALLY a cammer.

[cobracammer]

I had a similar thought, so for final assembly, I will be using Red Loctite for permanent installation.  It works as almost like an epoxy.  This way no danger of drilling out the holes with all of the security of epoxy  :0)

[cobracammer]

OK another question.... since the tensioner arm has to come off in order to install the chain guides, wouldn't I need to install the chain guides before I time the cams?  Otherwise if I remove the tensioner arm after I time everything, there is a chance the chain could slip and throw the timing off.  Would it be smart to install those before I time the Cams?

This way when I take the front cover off for the last time, it will be just to install the gaskets and sealer.  Not sure

[cobracammer]

And yes I realize my chain is not installed on the correct colored links. Lol. Will have it on right before timing. :-)  Should be the blue link on the Passenger side Cam sprocket, white link on the drivers side cam sprocket, and the Red link on the Stub gear....

Also today, I took the opportunity to purchase a Billet steel replacement gear for the MSD distributor (I have the brass replacement, but will keep that as a back up).  Also, another little part I never even thought about was the Timing cover seal for the crank snout.

Questions:

1.)  Since the bearings I have for the Tensioner, Idler, and stub cam nose are all sealed bearings, I don't need the "squirters"?  Of should I go find the same size bearings for each that are not sealed and install the squirters?  I am not sure which option is better.

2.) It was stated When timing the cams, the 2 rockers installed over the "test Springs" need to be backed all the way off.  Does this mean extended as far as they will go?  I would think that when timing, you would want to push the valve as far as the rocker will allow to test for worse case PV clearance.  That way when you lash the rocker at final assembly, you will be adding PV clearance and wont have to worry?

3.) Just out of curiosity, with the pistons installed, chain drive installed, and the 2 tester springs installed, how difficult should it be to turn the engine over.  I have not yet put the degree wheel on, but I was curious what a normal amount of resistance is at this point working against all of the above mentioned parts. 

[cobracammer]

Still waiting on the tools to remove the valve springs and install checker springs (should arrive today), so last night I did some tinkering.  Removed the tensioner and replaced the washers on the with Grade 8 "Heavy Duty" washers.  these are about 3 times as thick as a normal grade 8 zinc washer.  I will also be using these heavy duty washers on the cam sprockets for final assembly.  Moved the chain to its correct orientation.  This would be the White link on the Drivers side cam sprocket, Red link on the Stub cam gear, and the Blue link on the Passenger side cam sprocket.  Just to save a little time down the road, I decided it would be a good idea to install the chain guides at this point.  My thinking is that when I am done timing the engine, I only have to remove the timing cover in order to apply the gaskets/seals.  Smaller chain guide that mounts right above the stub cam and behind the tensioner has no "slot", so it is not really adjustable.  The top timing chain guide is slotted, but unfortunately did not match up perfectly.  I had to elongate the bolt hole a little larger so that it would align with the bolt hole in the block.  While I was at it, I remember reading in Jay's post that the rivets on the top of the chain guide are a little tall and cause interference with the timing cover.  I ground each one down on the bench top grinder (just because I wasn't in the mood to test out if that was true!).  I pushed the top chain guide Up to its tallest possible location and tightened the bolts.  I know it is supposed to be a "whisper" off of the chain, but once the chain is tensioned to its final resting place, I can readjust.  Surprisingly, the timing cover slid right on with no hiccups!  I tightened the tensioner adjuster bolt so that it was taught (about as taught as the small timing gear chain) and am now just waiting on the tools....... before leaving the garage last night, I was super curious about how difficult it would be to turn and engine of this bore diameter with a huge chain drive like this....  Surprisingly, it wasn't that tough.  It is by no means easy to turn the crank at this point (not like a one finger job), but it definitely turns.  Not much to photograph with the timing cover on, so More photos to come this weekend.

[KMcCullah]

You don't need to buy open bearings for your sprockets. Take your pocket knife and pop the neoprene seals out of your existing bearings. Just pry next to the inner race and they pop out easy. Rinse the grease out with solvent. 

[cobracammer]

OK all, long weekend working on learning and setting the timing.  With the front cover temporarily installed, the chain was tightened and the cams were "straight up".  The cam card says both the Cams have a center line of 108 degrees.  The passenger cam came in at 109 degrees straight up.  With a cam pin moved to the right, it was advanced and came in at 101.5 degrees.  This was the closest I could get the timing to the 102 degrees Jay Suggested earlier in the post.

The drivers side cam was a bit different!  In the straight up position, the cam came in at 102 degrees.  This seems a bit far from 108!!!  To be sure, it rechecked it 3 times in the straight up position.  This one needed to be retarded in order to get to 105.  One  dowel hole to the left got me to 106....  Not quite the 3 degrees, but close enough.

So the timing is set......  This was a quick post, but it literally took me 2.5 days 

Next step will be to to install the cam retainer plates and torque them down, remove the timing cover after the chain tension has been loosened, and seal up the timing cover with the last set of gaskets.  Also need to swap the checker springs back out to the real springs.

[cobracammer]

So something I was trying to wrap my head around last night......  In order to find TDC while doing the timing, I bolted the degree wheel on to the Harmonic Balancer and pressed it onto the crank snout.  Now, by the time I found TDC, the degree wheel had the TDC mark in one location and If I looked behind it onto the marked harmonic balancer, TDC was in a totally different location.

I discussed this with my father last night and he tried explaining, but I just couldn't understand.  When the degree wheel is rotated around to TDC, shouldn't the harmonic balancers markings for TDC be in the exact same place?