If all you'll be using it for is the 2500 RPM break-in, you'll probably be okay. The factory progressive linkage only uses the main carbs primaries for idling and lower RPMs with no load. You should be able to get the desired RPM with just that initial step on the linkage, under no load, which means one carb should work. I would NOT try upping the RPM beyond break-in with just one carb. It would likely end up being very lean on several cylinders, which means lots of heat in those cylinders. Under no circumstances should it be driven that way.

I think 69’s are about the same as ‘67 & ‘68 wheel well openings. (Correct me if I’m wrong) I didn’t want to cut my wheel wells for larger tires so I started off with 29” bias slicks, they rubbed, too much tire growth. I went down to a 28” Hoosier and they clear fine but put me through the lights at 7600rpm with 4.86 gear. After 20 runs I took them off and went to a 30” radial from Hoosier the one with the smaller roll out. They are actually about 29.5 but don’t grow like the bias tires. They clear ok, have to be a little careful exiting the track sharply with any speed, so far so good no rub marks and dropped 300rpm.

Mike, it's a stick shift car, and as far as I know, radials don't play well with stick cars. Pretty sure I'll have to go to a 4.5* gear to get my desired trap RPM, so I have another spare rear to look forward to, but I was debating on stepping up to 35 spline axles anyway. 

On my Mustang, I didn't like the front upwards bolt over 30 years ago and was able to fish a nut on the back through a seam on the top of the rail. 

That had to be an exercise in patience! I've done stuff like that before, so I know how difficult it can be getting that bolt started with a loose nut on the backside. Just lining it up can be a challenge.

Not sure what you’re looking at in the fuel pump area, I went Magnafuel MP-4601.  So, adjustable bypass, 10AN in and out, and the volume I wanted, then an adjustable 4 port regulator at the engine, so far very pleased.

I already have an adjustable Aeromotive regulator, so just need to get a pump, which I haven't looked at yet. I'll probably go with size 10's also, just to know I won't be running out of fuel, along with a custom pickup to feed it.

Wicked pump gas engine.
Might need more gear? How tall are the slicks?
Congrats!

I have 28" slicks, and I don't want to go modifying my wheelwells, so likely stuck with that size, although I may be able to pick up a couple of inches if I relocate the rear. My Currie housing is narrowed 2" so I could try and keep things tucked in, and I have clearance with my springs with the backspacing on my rims, so that's not an issue. Currently have 4.30 gears, which puts me through the traps at 6500 with my current tires and combo. I may be able to keep that gearing with the goal of going through at 7500, but I'll just have to wait and see how it plays out.

After several years of curve balls, and a couple of bean balls being thrown at me by life, I finally got around to getting Blair to put this engine together and dynoed. The goal was a stout street/race engine that I could have fun with at the track and still do a Drag Week event if I decided to do so again. That meant dependability and durability was a priority. I also wanted something strong enough that I could easily up the ante, should I decide to do so in the future, which seems to be a constant with my Mach.

I spent an entire day at Blair's dynoing the engine, and after getting the A/F right with jetting, he worked his magic on the 660 carbs, not exactly known for their streetability. Watching someone who truly knows how to tune an engine, not just getting A/F right, but actually working the carbs in a staggered fashion to get each cylinder even and performing to its potential was a special treat. I've been around a fair number of dyno runs, even in competitions, and I can tell you that there are only a limited number of people who can tune like Blair. He picked up another 25+hp just by balancing the cylinder mixtures for each cylinder, and on a single plane Tunnel Wedge to boot. He also adjusted part throttle/load mixtures to get a smoother street engine, then worked the idle mixture to make for a much smoother and happier engine overall. It sounded like a different engine by the end of the day.

A huge thank you to Blair for putting this together for me, everything he taught me while I was there (again), and his great crew at his shop, who helped me fix a busted brake line that happened just as we were loading the engine, right before a 500 mile trip home. 10 minutes later and I would have been going 75mph on I-75, so the Big Guy upstairs was looking out for me.

Torque was flat as a pancake for 1500 RPM, and the HP nearly matched it. A 1.59 HP per CI is impressive. I've got some work ahead of myself to make the car ready for this engine. Luckily, I've already got 95% of everything I need, I just waited to match a fuel pump and system for the horsepower, and new 5 point harness so it wasn't dated out.

Engine specs....

Performance Summary:
      Cubic Inches:  475                         
      Peak Horsepower:  759 @ 6960
      Peak Torque:  619 @ 5160

Engine Specifications:

   Block: SOG Iron Block  4.35 Bore
     
   Crankshaft: Crower 4.00 stroke, 2.00 rod journal
     
   Connecting Rods: Crower

   Pistons: CP, 11:1

   Camshaft: Bullet custom solid roller

   Lifters: Crower HIPPO solid roller

   Cylinder heads: BP Pro Port
 
   Rocker arms: T&D paired, custom offset, custom ratios

   Pushrods: Manton 3/8 x .145

   Distributor: Ford, vacuum advance removed, custom curve

   Intake manifold: TFS Tunnel Wedge, worked and matched to Pro Ports

   Carburetor: 2x Holley 660

   Balancer: ATI Super Damper

   Water Pump: In car a CVR pump and FEPower adapters will be used.

  Video of dyno run:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=07CjvUkG7r0&lc=Ugz0BL-p-fRlrnaOgjt4AaABAg

Ditto what Rory said. You'd have to butcher the header pipes, and even then I don't think there would be any way to get them through without dropping them under the cylinder so low that they would be road graders. That's why I used the power steering control valve eliminator and just got rid of the whole system. Only issue with that is the ratio is not real street friendly, and it takes some muscle to steer unless you change out the box and pitman arm to get the non-power steering ratio back.

Quote from: cjshaker on October 04, 2026, 08:31:14 PM

I fixed the problem by making a turnbuckle strap to go from the head to the sway bar mount. It's a perfect lineup, easy to make, and it stopped the pecking. It also helps the motor mount to live longer.

It also keeps the clutch linkage happy in a three pedel car 

You're absolutely right. There's a multitude of benefits to keeping the engine from twisting.on stock rubber motor mounts. At the very least, they should be through bolted. It'll save a lot of damage from happening should it break.