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Messages - cjshaker

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1
Just like Pro Stock Engineering, a few years making great FE stuff, then gone. Sorry for the analogy, I'm only speaking from a parts producing standpoint.

I'd say there are two major differences- quality and good engineering of the parts, and the fact that Jay is not a total dickhead and bullshit artist like "ProStock Paul"  ;D

That's why I added the caveat. If I wanted to offend, I would have compared to Dove. :)

PSE made some great and innovative stuff, even if the guy was a jerk. Nothing was perfect in the FE aftermarket world then, but his adapters were an excellent idea that opened up lots of new alternatives, at time when there was almost nothing but factory options. They were innovative enough that Jay took the concept and raised it to a whole 'nother level.

I'm glad to hear the forum will continue. There's loads of valuable data and experience stored in past posts. It'd be a shame to see that go away for future FE guys.

2
Well that sucks. Just like Pro Stock Engineering, a few years making great FE stuff, then gone. Sorry for the analogy, I'm only speaking from a parts producing standpoint.

It would be great if Pond, or someone with experience and access to quality foundries, stepped up to keep producing these parts, especially the adapters and heads.

but I will
continue with this forum and the business for a couple years yet - Jay

Are we to take this that you will be shutting down the business and the forum in a couple of years?

3
FE Technical Forum / Re: Let's play Guess The Casting
« on: April 01, 2026, 02:57:16 AM »
Top: Dual Autolite inlines for your adapter on a Tunnel Port.
Middle: Dual Autolite inlines for an adapter on your heads.
Bottom: Dual Autolite inlines for an SOHC   
             edit: I would change this answer to the plenum style inlines, on your heads, because the spacing isn't right for an SOHC, but honestly, that big low slung plenum had me confused. I'm changing my answer to a dual turbo, port injected intake for your heads.

4
Non-FE Discussion Forum / Re: Jerico Transmissions Question
« on: April 01, 2026, 02:35:49 AM »
If you're talking about the Liberty Equalizer, and not their TKX series, and the Lenco, there is no comparison to the Jerico. The Equalizer and Lenco can handle much more horsepower without issues (reasonably speaking, of course). There's nothing wrong with a Jerico for racing, I have a DR4-4, but parts availability would stop me from getting one now. For moderately high horsepower, I'd choose a G-Force. For maximum performance engines, I'd choose a Liberty, but that would require driveshaft tunnel cutting to make it fit. It's wide.

5
They came out pretty nice. Didn't you buy a Bridgeport a few years back?

6
FE Technical Forum / Re: David kee toploaders...... Is he closed?
« on: February 28, 2026, 03:14:11 PM »
From his site:
"We are not taking transmissions in to be remanufactured at this time due to ongoing supply chain issues."
Not surprised at this, as supply chain issues have affected many manufacturers, especially since the Covid dust-up. If you can't get one needed part, you can't rebuild them.

Jerico went out of business, so parts are obviously hard to find, if not impossible. This was completely expected, until someone steps up to continue production. That is probably unlikely, at least anytime soon.

It seems he is still selling parts and parts kits though.

7
But, very pleasantly, although the block looks like oil changes weren't on the regular menu, all the water jackets look almost new. Mister no-oilchange must have at least used proper coolant.

To me, that is a good sign. That means the engine likely hasn't been rebuilt and cut on. That means you're starting with fresh factory surfaces to clean up and likely in stock specs. That's a good thing...usually.

8
FE Technical Forum / Re: Overheating 427
« on: February 09, 2026, 10:53:46 PM »
What distributor? Does it have vacuum advance?

If it's a street engine with moderate compression, and you have good gas, like 92/93 octane, those heads can safely go to 40-42* of timing. That would help. Before spending a bunch of money, I'd double check your timing, making sure your TDC mark is correct. Retarded timing will affect temps at all RPM levels.

I run 40* on my 427 MR in my Mach 1, 500hp, all factory iron, stock brass radiator, stock shroud with Edelbrock pump, and it's fine on the street. Though at prolonged idle it will start to creep on a hot day. If I don't mix some race gas, it will start to diesel on shutoff if it's a hot day, so I use the clutch to keep that from happening. If it's an automatic, you can shut if off in gear. If I mix some 110, it's not an issue.

9
Non-FE Discussion Forum / Re: Muncie FERR hotels
« on: February 07, 2026, 09:56:47 PM »
 Might be a bit outside your scope of interests, but the Early Ford V-8 Foundation Museum, just outside of Auburn, IN (straight up from Ft. Wayne) is a pretty cool place to visit. Lots of cool early flathead race pieces that are really unique to the early days of hotrodding. Stuff like dual plug heads with swirl inducing chambers....which people think were invented just yesterday. They also have one of the original all stainless Fords (a '36) that they produced. Also some really neat all original low mile cars. One, a '32 5 window, is one of the coolest all original cars I've seen.

I'm hoping to make the '26 Muncie meet again this year, but it's not looking good at this time. Made it to the 3rd round last year, just short of the money, but had a blast. Hopefully it'll be warmer this year.

10
FE Technical Forum / Re: HS rockers
« on: February 01, 2026, 11:29:17 PM »
Yes, that is a total clearance between the rocker stands by pushing both rockers and the spacer to one side and measuring.

Harland used to provide flat ground spacers to use so that they would line up with either the closer valve spacing of most all FE heads, or the wider valve spacing of the MR, HR and TP heads, depending on where you put the spacer. Not sure if they are available separately or not. I used to use valve spring seats, the flat ground hardened type, when I was young and used what was available. They fit the shaft perfectly. If I recall correctly, they were small block chevy pieces, but I won't swear to it.

11
Non-FE Discussion Forum / Re: Source for good quality electronic parts?
« on: January 08, 2026, 09:57:35 PM »
Thanks a bunch, guys. Between Digikey, Mouser and Allied (apparently now called RS), they seem to cover about everything I'd be looking for. I'm mostly looking for AC and some 12/24v DC components for small projects I like working on.

12
Non-FE Discussion Forum / Re: Source for good quality electronic parts?
« on: January 07, 2026, 11:49:53 PM »
There's nothing around me for over a hundred miles since Radio Shack closed.
Thanks for those 2 links. They look like good suppliers. Funny how they never came up when I did a Google search, just the janky dealers selling cheap stuff. I knew there had to be some quality electronic suppliers out there.

I have a list of several audio components suppliers, and the audio community is VERY particular about their parts, but they're also very limited in scope of what they sell. VERY good parts, but very application specific.

13
Non-FE Discussion Forum / Source for good quality electronic parts?
« on: January 07, 2026, 05:03:22 PM »
Does anyone have a source for good, high quality electronic parts, such as rheostats, transformers, switches, capacitors etc etc?
Radio Shack is gone, and Amazon typically just offers cheap Chinese junk. When it comes to electronics, cheap typically equals dangerous. I can't seem to locate a source for good quality parts. Anyone?

14
The rust does look bad, but I would guess if it's as bad as it's made out to be, that those oil transfer tubes would be long gone as well. They always seem to fall apart LONG before the cylinders become that bad, especially on a 390. That is one of the most common issues on internally rusty blocks. They seem to be intact though, so I'd check if they held pressure. If so, I'd venture to say those numbers can't be right.

15
What's nice about the tool is that it locates in the seal bore and centers on the crank.  The timing cover doesn't have opportunity to dip down under its own weight while you're tightening the bolts down.  It will also open your eyes to the fact that the oil pan mating surface on the timing cover isn't always going to be perfectly flush with the block's oil pan mating surface. 

For a guy who builds FE engines all the time, the tool may make sense.
Except for the cast iron covers, I've never seen a cover that was so heavy as to distort the seal. They're pretty stiff. And if you're adjusting the cover to be flush with the pan rail, then you really shouldn't be messing with engines in the first place. You would have to physically force the cover down to be flush. Common sense goes a long way.

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