Yes, this is 'very' possible!   

     Ever notice the "grill covers" as mounted to the front of semi tractors riding down the highway when operating in colder climates?  Or have you ever seen the NASCAR guys "adjusting" (adding or removing the duck tape) on the front grill exposure for the purpose of aiding in engine temperature control?   

     Scott.

Adding DUCT tape (because I don't think it was designed for ducks, although I could be mistaken ) on the front of a NASCAR car is always about aiding downforce and improving aerodynamics. Sometimes they have to remove tape because of the negative impact on cooling, but cooling is not the purpose of adding it.

I used to have to block off the radiators in my old Falcons and Comets in the winter time, because they just would not produce heat if left open. Concerning Mustangs, with the addition of taller gearing in the SCJ cars, and the already cramped Mustang engine compartment, I think overheating became a real issue, even with the bigger radiator in the big block cars, and especially at prolonged highway speeds. The cooler was added to aid in that respect. I don't think they are an issue in colder weather. If it were, you'd see the temp gauge staying in the 'cold' range, and I haven't seen that issue when driving my car in cold weather. That may change if I were to drive it in extreme cold, like single digits, in which case, just blocking off the cooler may have a pretty noticeable impact.

2" Dyno Headers



Hooker 6114

A long time ago I learned from an experienced gentleman that when it comes to small market items, employ the principal of "scarfology".  When you see something that you might need someday, and it is available now, scarf it up!

I believe the proper terminology for the "I might need that someday" mentality is called Hoarding.

Intakes and valve covers used to be everywhere at swapmeets. Now you can hardly find them. Then I see guys with entire walls and shelves full of them, but ask to buy one and you get the "I might need that someday"....or the price is exorbitant because they know the hoarders have them all.

Well,,,,a few strokes with a round file in each hole would fix it fast

This ^^^

Just saw this, Joe.
Sounds like it was a decent showing. Going rounds is always fun, even if it doesn't result in a class win. At Muncie this year, I was very fortunate to make it to the quarter finals, where I red lit by .005. UGH! Still had a blast though, and that's what it's all about with our cars.

Congrats on some good results, and for not having any issues or problems. I consider a weekend of racing, with no problems, a win.

Quote from: djburton on August 05, 2025, 07:23:53 AM

The valves are already ground and I plan on doing a slight lap . . . . .

      Now I'm not there, I don't have the parts in my hand, looking at them, but generally I would be of the impression that 'if' the valve faces were worn to the point of necessitating a "refacing" process, then the corresponding seating surfaces in the head are really going to need more resultant effect than that which "lapping" would be able to provide.   

      Scott.

Not everything has to be perfect. This sort of thing was commonplace years ago, and under the right circumstances, there's nothing wrong with it.

The 390 in my '65 Galaxie was untouched and had never been apart. When I was getting it ready for Drag Week 2018, I took it down to the shortblock to clean out all the sludge that had accumulated over the 53 years. Having taken the heads apart, several of the valves were pitted fairly badly...not uncommon. I simply ordered 3 new valves, lapped them in, and seeing there was a consistent mark around the seat and valve, put it back together....and drove it 1000 miles to Atlanta, then 1000 miles back. No issues, no excessive blow-by, and the engine still runs good today.

Could it be better? Yes. Is there anything wrong with the way it runs now? No. I saw no reason to spend $1k in totally redoing the heads for an otherwise original and stock engine. Sometimes "good enough" is good enough.

This valve was used...



This exhaust valve was replaced...

If you won't pull the freeze plugs, that's going to make it much more difficult, but understand why you don't want to go that route. If you can hang the engine from the bellhousing side, face down, with the water pump off, then a pressure washer, or even using the pressure part of a hose wand would do a bunch to flush out all the loose crap. Aim it through the pump holes and just spray at every angle you can towards the sides of the bores. Using a coat hanger like Rory suggested would really help also. Otherwise, it'll be a losing battle trying to get all the crud out of those small water drain holes.

I wouldn't want to use any type of acid if not tearing the engine down. I doubt it would be friendly to head gaskets, intake gaskets, any aluminum etc.