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Topics - cjshaker

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EDIT: Everything has been sold except for the C1 block.

This stuff has to go to make room in my garage. I don't want to scrap the stuff, so hoping I can find someone here who might want or need it.

3 390 blocks  C1, C6, D4
3 390 cranks  C1, C4
4 sets heads  C1, C4, C6, D2

All blocks are good and standard bore. The D4 block needs oil transfer tubes repaired (one side was putting oil in the water, but otherwise good). The C1 block has blended oil passages at the filter mount, no other work noticed. Caps for C1 block are included but not pictured. $150 ea, $100 for the D4

The C1 crank is std/std and looks really good. Has polished journals that look great, but could probably use a freshen on the polish. Might need turned depending on your clearance needs. $50

The C4 crank is .010/.010 and just needs a polish to be used. $50

C1 heads have been gone through and are in good shape, but they just received a basic rebuild. Would be better off to go through them again for positive seals and better valves/springs on anything other than a stock rebuild. All surfaces machined, just need cleaned up. $100

C4 heads are good but need gone through. Completely stock. Only issue is 2 exhaust port bolt holes are slightly 'torched', but does not affect sealing surface and should present no problems. $100

C6 & D2 heads are stock and need completely gone through. No noticeable issues. $25 each set

Obviously none of this stuff is worth shipping, so hoping someone fairly local can use them, or a rebuilder to buy the lot for cores. I'm located in NW Central Ohio (near Lima). I can help deliver some (but not all) within an hours drive. That covers from Toledo, to Ft. Wayne (Indiana), to Dayton, but only if my fuel is covered. If buying the lot of blocks, I'll cover my fuel.

Non-FE Discussion Forum / Classic car insurance companies? Which one?...
« on: November 06, 2021, 09:20:59 AM »
Quick story: I just recently sold my '65 Galaxie, so I got ahold of Haggerty to take it off my insurance. Yesterday, I get a letter from them saying my premium went UP $105. I call my local insurance agent, which I have to go through to get Haggerty, to complain, and they say it's because I lost my "multi-car discount". I said bull@#^$ premium went up when I added the Galaxie, as one would expect, so how does it go up even more when I take it OFF? Needless to say, I gave them an ultimatum, drop it back down lower than it was, or I'm gone.

I'm sure they won't comply, so now I'll be looking for a new classic insurance company. Who do you guys use, and what is their general policy about driving?

Non-FE Discussion Forum / Snake and Mongoose on YouTube...
« on: August 02, 2021, 11:27:18 PM »
Always being cheap and not wanting to pay to watch movies, I keep an eye out for good free movies. They just recently put Snake and Mongoose on YouTube free movies. Regardless what you think about its accuracy, it's a good gearhead movie.

Non-FE Discussion Forum / Car museums in the Kalamazoo area?...
« on: July 25, 2021, 08:10:10 AM »
My cousin and I are always looking for things to do on bike trips. He was told that there are several car museums in the Kalamazoo, MI area, which would make for a nice ride for us. Does anyone in the area have comments on where, or which ones to go to?

Private Classifieds / '63 Galaxie complete grille, very nice used
« on: May 30, 2021, 11:38:45 AM »
Bumped. I need to get rid of this stuff, so dropped the price again.

Selling this very nice used grille for a '63 Galaxie. It includes both headlight surrounds. Other than the one ding on the drivers side headlight surround (outer headlight, visible in picture), the grille has zero damage, dings or scratches and very little stone pitting. It is not bent or twisted in any way and all center bars are very straight with no pushed in areas or twists. It does have light scarring from the factory bolts, and one of the bottom bolt holes has some slight distortion that can be straightened/flattened pretty easily (far outer passenger side). I cleaned one end lightly using some Simple Green just to get some crud off from storage to see how the anodizing was holding up. Except for the ding, I would consider this a very nice grille for anything short of a 100 pointer show car. I do not know if the ding can be removed well enough to be saved for re-anodizing for a perfect show piece.
$200 plus shipping from Ohio.

Edit to add that the 0000 steel wool pad in the picture was NOT used to clean any part of this grille. I was using it to clean some chrome on other pieces.

Private Classifieds / FEPower valve covers, never used...
« on: May 24, 2021, 09:05:34 PM »
I changed directions on using these in my Mustang, and as much as I'd like to hang on to them, I need the money for other projects. I had Jay machine them for 2 threaded caps for a header evac system, plus the oil fill cap. They also have the machined rail and notches for use with regular valve cover gaskets. All caps are included and thread into the valve covers themselves (not pop in). The 2 threaded caps can be used for an evac system or for screw in breathers.

Non-FE Discussion Forum / Something for you Y-block guys...
« on: April 24, 2021, 07:36:15 PM »
Spent the last week pulling this out of a barn. '55 Customline 2dr, 272 3spd with overdrive. It had sat in there for about 35 years. So long that the barn had settled enough that I had to use a chainsaw to cut the bottoms of the doors off to get them open. Groundhogs had sunk the floor, but the car was originally sitting on thick oak planks....which had all but rotted away. Since it was sunk pretty good, and all 4 tires were flat, I was pretty worried about the floors and frame, but I was utterly amazed at what I found. You'll see in the pictures below. 

Rear wheels were locked up, so my old 8N was digging trenches to get it up and out of the barn. The rear wheels were just bulldozing stone, which was making it impossible to drag any distance with my small tractor. Once I got it out, I ended up having to make a cradle to put under the rear wheels just so I could drag it to where I wanted to.

It has some typical front fender rust, front and rear, and a little at the rear of the rocker and wheelwells. The doors don't sag at all, and you can close them with one finger. All the windows are smooth in their tracks. All the header panels, radiator core support, inner fenders and firewall are solid.

The car had mothballs in it for the longest time, but they had dissolved and mice had gotten at the headliner. Luckily, I don't see any damage anywhere else. Someone had put seat covers over the original seats, but the original coverings look to be in great shape. Not sure how long they would hold up though. Opening up the glovebox, it looked like new inside (NO MOUSE NEST!) and I even found the original Ford Warranty pamphlet. The rubber floormat is extremely brittle and just shatters when you push on it anywhere.

But here's where things got interesting. When I was finally able to craw under the car, I was surprised to see a thick layer of undercoating over the entire underneath. I mean over everything! The undercoating was still plyable, but once I got a finger under a spot I could just pull huge chunks off. Every single spot I pulled off, this is what I found underneath. Remember that this is a 100% original car, never damaged, never repaired, never repainted. Everything you see is factory paint.

The spare tire well, and a picture of one side of the rear trunk pan.

This is the underside of the front wheelwell, and a shot of the front panel underneath the battery area. For guys that know these cars, that is a bad rust area. Needless to say, I was just amazed!

The floorpans look the same...everywhere. I just couldn't get low enough to get a shot of them. The frame also has undercoating, so while it's surface rusted in a couple of areas at the rear, where the undercoating had recently fell off, the rest of it looks to be in amazing shape. Yes, I think I got the car out just in time!

The last time it was tagged was 1972. It ran and drove good when it was parked. Current plans, for the meantime, are to replace the entire brake system, get the engine running good (it wasn't stuck) and replace all engine rubber, put new tires on it and drive it the way it is, albeit not on rainy days. All the weatherstripping and rubber seals are in amazing shape, but I don't expect them to hold up once it sees sunlight. I'm really happy that it has overdrive, which has always been really hard to find for these older cars.

For a friends CJ build for a '69 Q code GT. Need a set with very minimal or no tip wear, and with good (not grooved up) shaft holes. Also looking for a set of steel stands, non MR/TP style (the thinner ones).

Can't ask in the thread because it's locked.
Went to send the message to my states elected officials but can't send it without the "Prefix" area filled in, before your name. So what is the Prefix? Gender? Middle initial? Party affiliation? Shoe size?

It's a pretty lame video, but it does have some good shots of the internals of the engine and valvetrain. The saving grace is that at least you get to hear it run near the end....and it sounds crisp! I've never seen one of these engines, let alone heard one run. I'm not sure if it's the oval collectors or the heads (I'm guessing the heads), but it certainly has a different sound than any FE I've heard. Hopefully it won't be another 47 years till it runs again. ::)

Non-FE Discussion Forum / Any vintage audiophiles here?...
« on: January 14, 2021, 01:01:43 PM »
I know there are a couple on here who like the vintage tube stuff from the '60s/'70s, but how about the older stuff?
Anyone recognize this little gem? Except for 3 capacitors, it's all original, chrome is in great shape, and has a working original cone speaker, and it works.

Non-FE Discussion Forum / Sealing trunk area for NHRA requirements...
« on: December 29, 2020, 08:13:53 AM »
NHRA requires the trunk area to be sealed from the interior area when the fuel tank/cell is inside the trunk area. How do guys seal up their trunk areas, like in a Mustang? I thought about making a plate that went over the tanks recessed area, sealing it from the trunk area, but the fill would still have to be accessible from inside the trunk, so depending on how high the filler plate extends up, that could get a little complicated, and I'm not sure it would pass.

Making a plate to go over the center area between the trunk and interior wouldn't be difficult, it's a pretty flat, open area. But the wheelwell areas are pretty convoluted with braces and rounded areas that are hard to reach, like between the wheelwell and quarter panels. What's the best way to seal those areas up? Has anyone had issues with a tech guy over this subject?

Non-FE Discussion Forum / Self driving race cars off to a great start....
« on: November 13, 2020, 12:51:12 PM »
Time trial finished in record

Non-FE Discussion Forum / Bench racing.....1/4 speed camshaft
« on: November 11, 2020, 08:51:43 AM »
Just bench racing here, and I'm no engineer, so I'm probably missing something obvious.

Why hasn't anyone attempted to use a 1/4 speed camshaft?

I was looking at the design of vintage radial airplane engines, and they use a 'cam' that has a much slower rotational speed but has multiple lobes. The design is pretty much mandatory for radial engines, but why hasn't something like this been attempted on automotive or drag race engines? The benefits (as far as I can see) would be pretty significant. A slower speed would mean that you wouldn't be trying to "launch" the lifter off of the lobe, so I think that a much lower spring pressure could be used. That would be a huge benefit for multiple reasons: mainly, less rotational drag and much better valvetrain control, which is the main failure point on most race engines.

It would require a cam with 2 'risers' per lobe, and a special gear set that would reduce cam speed to half of what is currently used. I realize that would have a packaging issue to stay under a stock type timing cover, and maybe it's not possible to fit it, but it would be a non issue if a remote water pump were used and a spacer were used behind the cover (or a deeper cover was used). Of course this isn't really possible on your normal street car without some fairly significant reworking of the front radiator support area, but not on a drag only application. With electronic ignition systems, distributors aren't even needed anymore, but one could still be driven off of the gear set if desired (think front mount distributors, readily available through MSD and others).

One of the issues I can think of is the diameter of the gears needed to reduce the cam to 1/4 speed. But with a vastly decreased load on the valvetrain from less spring pressure, thinner gears could be utilized, so the gears could be double stacked to get the proper reduction. I'm also not sure how a 1/4 speed cam lobe 'riser' would look. Maybe the ramp would be too aggressive to get the valve open fast enough, since it has a shorter time in rotation to match the movement of the piston? And yes, a dry sump oil system would be required, but I'm talking about full race engines here.

What else am I missing? Surely this has been thought of at some point through the years? Heck, it was used on radial engines dating back over a hundred years ago.

I got a bottle of Permatex Sleeve Retainer at work to attempt to reuse a gearbox that has some slight damage to its output shaft. The shaft was damaged when the pulley came loose and slightly grooved the shaft (this is on an $18k mower). The pulley uses a taper-lock hub, so it needs good contact with the shaft, so I decided to give this a try in saving an expensive gearbox. When reading the directions, first thing stated is "Clean and dry parts using Permatex Surface Prep activator".

Is the "Surface Prep activator" a requirement for the sealer to harden? I've never used the sleeve repair liquid before. Permatex Red and Blue do not require an activator, so I'm wondering if this is just a selling point for another product, or if it's actually required. Does anyone have any experience with this stuff?

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