CJ love

[67xr7cat]

If it does not have .0001" graduations it most likely is not a bore gauge intended for measuring bearing clearances. When I was looking to by one I found a lot of bore gauges intended to measure cylinder wall diameter.  Most of those are only good to .0005" which is not good enough for measuring bearings. I found you have to take a good look at the dial to know.  Another way is the price even a cheap dial bore gauge that will go to .0001" will cost you over $100.

[turbohunter]

Yup, makes sense.
I couldn’t find one that goes .0001 without being a couple hundred bucks.

[turbohunter]

Since I’m waiting for some tools I thought I’d rummage through the old parts to see what was done to the engine and if anything was save able.
First impression is, holy crap, they beat this thing to a pulp. The pistons have damn near exploded in the cylinders. Thank God they didn’t detonate entirely. Every piston had damage of some sort. Ring wear was interesting.

Enjoy the carnage below.

[cjshaker]

Yikes! It looks like the rings were holding the pistons together 

[turbohunter]

Just for an excercise in self abuse. I bought the eBay sonic checker to measure my block and compare to the machine shop numbers.
My numbers were better but still to much to fit in the block. I may try switching out batteries and trying it again as these batteries came with it and who knows how long they’ve been sitting.
These are center of the barrel measurements. I took measurements then filed the head to fit the cylinder arc and measured again. The measurements got smaller and more stable. I then used the 3/16 drill bit size (.1875) that I was able to fit between the cylinders to add to the adjoining cylinder walls and you see the end measurements in the middle.
Also when I calibrated the checker on the supplied .157 piece of metal supplied with the checker and matched it to my calipers it was an exact match.
So I understand how the shop guys were scratching their heads but as we all  know, it can’t be right.
Suffice to say, I think this is a nice block which may be why it survived the abuse this engine took.

[jayb]

My sonic checker has several different materials that it can be set for.  It's easy for it to be set up for the wrong one.  Have you tried it out on the back wall of the block?  That is an area that you can measure with calipers, and then compare to the sonic checker reading, and of course it will be the same material as the bores.  I wouldn't trust the calibration standard that they give you...

[turbohunter]

That may be why it’s perfect on their supplied checking bloc and different on the engine block. Different material.
I’ll get into it more.

[blykins]

You may need to radius the transducer too, to fit the shape of a cylinder wall. 

[turbohunter]

Yup did that. I called it the head instead of the transducer because I couldn’t remember what it was called when I wrote that post.
Part of getting older.

[gt350hr]

    Factory cast pistons are not very durable when hit with detonation. ring lands break as you see and they also break off chunks of skirt as seen.

[turbohunter]

Ok starting to get serious about assembly.
Measured up the crank today.
Scat 4.250
Here’s my make shift work station and sheets. Since I’m so paranoid about my measurements as this is my first time doing it all myself I bought all the fun tools for making it as easy as possible like the Goodson stand. It’s nice. Let’s you concentrate on measurements and not steadying the crank.
On to bearing fit.

[turbohunter]

Right off the bat, there is no comparison between the cheaper Eastwood bore gauge and the Mitutoyo. Not even in the same ballpark. I was able to get very consistent numbers with the Mitutoyo. I’m running right around .003 (.0028 to .0032) on all the mains.
I popped the crank into the blocked and snugged the mains to check end play. With very little pressure on the screw driver I moved it back and forth, it sits at .0035 with zero pressure so I may be a little tight there.
Didn’t get crazy spinning the crank but wanted to feel it turn. Very even. No stiff spots.
Question
It was one line honed with the Ford main cap bolts you see here. I would like to get some ARPs. Any problem with that? I understand studs might be different but I’m thinking bolts are ok. Am I right?

[turbohunter]

Hah, after messing with the sound structure in this darn sonic checker I finally got a calibration I can believe and matched with the calipers on the china rail
I only cared about the cylinder to cylinder clearance today as that was the thinner areas (not that it’s thin) and the area that the math applies to.
Sorry it’s messy but I think you get the idea.
I may get recharged tomorrow and map the whole thing but I’m pretty happy with this block so.......

[jayb]

That certainly is a good 428 block.  I'll bet you'll have thicknesses over 0.200" on the thrust surfaces.

I don't think you'll have any issues with ARP bolts, and you may not with studs either...

[chilly460]

If you want a good dial bore gauge, figure on spending some dough, and get one that measures in tenths of a thousandth.  I've got a Mitutoyo that I'm very happy with.  I started off with a Fowler, and didn't get reliable results.

https://www.ebay.com/itm/MITUTOYO-511-753-2-0-6-0-Total-Range-0001-Graduation-Dial-Bore-Gage/273768609822?hash=item3fbde1781e:g:7d0AAOSweTlcj~dF

This is good info, I didn't want to come on here blaming tools, but I've been fiddling with my Fowler bore gauge trying to get consistent readings on a 352 and have failed several times.