Author Topic: CJ love  (Read 28226 times)

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turbohunter

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CJ love
« on: July 23, 2020, 09:41:43 PM »
Got the new CJ home. Figured I do a thread on it as it will be an interesting project.
First the numbers. It is a 9C5 date coded block. C scratch on the rear. Partial vin stamp is 9H572337.
The heads are much later in the year one is a J, one is a K. The J head has a broken exhaust ear and a crack in the valve cover rail. Greg the gent I got it from has a replacement head for it. It comes with a Streetmaster manifold installed. I have been offered a CJ manifold and am undecided on if I’ll use it. It also came with adjustable rocker arms with hydraulic lifters. There are no exterior weights on the flywheel or damper. The paperwork that came with it shows balancing. It does not say internal and I haven’t gotten to the crank yet to check.
I’m waiting until I get a little farther into it before I decide what to do with it. But my initial thought is to put it in my Fairlane as I will be moving next year and it would be nice to have the Fairlane mobile.
Here’s some pics. Check out the China rail sealing.
BTW I understand about welding iron but wonder if there is still anybody out there that can fix it. Shame to lose an N head.












Marc
'61 F100 292Y
'66 Mustang Injected 428
'66 Q code Country Squire wagon


427Fastback

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Re: CJ love
« Reply #1 on: July 24, 2020, 12:15:39 AM »
I would have to go look at the CJ in the 66 but that hole might not be used depending what side you put it on...I would be more concerned with the condition of the valve seats..In my experience unleaded fuel and FE heads don't mix...They are tricky to put seats in as there is not much material left if they blindly get machined out...
If HP is a goal I would leave the intake alone otherwise grab the stock one,vintage F-427 or a Perf RPM.....JMO..
1968 Mustang Fastback...427 MR 5spd (owned since 1977)
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428 GALAXIE

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Re: CJ love
« Reply #2 on: July 24, 2020, 02:19:43 AM »
 So you are bringing new CJ engine home  every another week,who gets to do that nowadays???
Mikko

blykins

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Re: CJ love
« Reply #3 on: July 24, 2020, 05:30:52 AM »
I have a guy here that can fix that head. 

Shame on whomever used the silicone like that.   And extra shame on whomever put the restrictor in, then put a helicoil in on top of it....LOL

I bet that engine would be a fairly strong runner as it sits, especially if it has an aftermarket cam in it. 
Brent Lykins
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turbohunter

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Re: CJ love
« Reply #4 on: July 24, 2020, 01:37:25 PM »
It is a sad tale I have to tell.
It is really is sad what some people will do to a beautiful thing.
Took the heads off today and was met with a few problems. Suffice to say the bottom end has to come apart. The pics will tell the story.

Pic 1 The head gaskets. One side is great the other....hmm. The good side head popped right off. The bad side head was cemented on.


Pic 2 Houston we have a problem


Pic 3 These ladies are missing their skirts. 3 of them.


Pic 4, 5, 6 There’s actually a bolt in there.






Pic 7, 8 More gorilla snot





Pic 9 Crank


Pic 10 you know

« Last Edit: July 24, 2020, 01:39:25 PM by turbohunter »
Marc
'61 F100 292Y
'66 Mustang Injected 428
'66 Q code Country Squire wagon


WConley

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Re: CJ love
« Reply #5 on: July 24, 2020, 02:36:42 PM »
Marc -  There's no hatchet on the damper, right?  Hmm.  I'd be looking for mallory metal on the counterweights of that nice SCJ crank.  Hopefully the journals are OK. 

I've seen lots of 1968-70 cast Ford pistons with porous/ broken skirts.  (A broken skirt tab punched a hole in my old '68 Shelby GT 350's original 302  >:()  Boss 302 guys know this phenomenon well!

Yeah that engine was rebuilt by Mongo!  Mongo also had a very runny nose.  That stuff doesn't belong anywhere near an engine... I think you'll end up with something really sweet though, as long as the bores check OK and the crank isn't boogered (see what I said there  ;D).
A careful study of failure will yield the ingredients for success.

427Fastback

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Re: CJ love
« Reply #6 on: July 24, 2020, 02:52:42 PM »
I see what appears to be lemans rods..Thats SCJ stuff thus the previous question about the hatchet..Hope it measures up ok....
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turbohunter

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Re: CJ love
« Reply #7 on: July 24, 2020, 03:28:13 PM »
Good news on the heads.
Thanks to Tommy T, I remembered an old friend I had forgotten about. I remembered because Tommy had pm’d me and suggested them. ::)
Valley Head Service is an old time shop here in the valley. They’ve been in business for almost 60 years. Fixing the heads is no problem for them.
And best yet they are only a couple miles from my house.
Thanks Tommy.
Marc
'61 F100 292Y
'66 Mustang Injected 428
'66 Q code Country Squire wagon


jayb

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Re: CJ love
« Reply #8 on: July 24, 2020, 03:34:39 PM »
Those look like LeMans rods, but that is not an SCJ crank.  An SCJ crank will usually be marked 1UA, not 1UB.  You can also tell by looking at the center journal, see the 428 cobra jet web site.

Looks like whoever did that engine was thinking along the same lines as me back when I did my first 428CJ in 1980.  I hunted around until I found some LeMans rods, and replaced the stock CJ rods with those.  Added the balance weight required to the crank, no hatchet crank spacer.  Worked fine with no problems. 

Sorry to see all the issues with that engine, Marc... :(
« Last Edit: July 24, 2020, 03:37:41 PM by jayb »
Jay Brown
- 1969 Mach 1, Drag Week 2005 Winner NA/BB, 511" FE (10.60s @ 129); Drag Week 2007 Runner-Up PA/BB, 490" Supercharged FE (9.35 @ 151)
- 1964 Ford Galaxie, Drag Week 2009 Winner Modified NA (9.50s @ 143), 585" SOHC
- 1969 Shelby Clone, Drag Week 2015 Winner Modified NA (Average 8.98 @ 149), 585" SOHC

   

Gregwill16

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Re: CJ love
« Reply #9 on: July 24, 2020, 03:55:59 PM »
Sorry for the issues Marc. +1 1UB is a CJ crank but the balancer looks larger like the SCJ. Look and see if it the normal or the C8AE-C SCJ balancer.

turbohunter

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Re: CJ love
« Reply #10 on: July 24, 2020, 04:23:21 PM »
No sweat with the issues guys.
Just gives me more impetus to make it right.
Here’s some more from under her dress.
Quality work going on here. ::)

Rear




Front


Representative cylinder/no ridges


Marc
'61 F100 292Y
'66 Mustang Injected 428
'66 Q code Country Squire wagon


WConley

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Re: CJ love
« Reply #11 on: July 24, 2020, 05:25:34 PM »
Jay's right - I forgot about the 1UB representing the second generation "Standard CJ" crank. 

At least the cylinders look OK.  The crank can be cleaned up to look decent.  The important thing is the measurements, and I'd also recommend a Magnaflux inspection for cracks.

Overall not terrible news.  You're still way above $700 worth of stuff  ;)


Had to add - I'm surprised Mongo didn't smooth out those bird poop welds with Bondo when he was done!
« Last Edit: July 24, 2020, 05:27:08 PM by WConley »
A careful study of failure will yield the ingredients for success.

turbohunter

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Re: CJ love
« Reply #12 on: July 24, 2020, 05:35:37 PM »
Yes sir I still feel lucky. I’m going to end up with a great engine.
It’s going to cost me a bit more though.
But the motor I gave to Gary has to be rebuilt also, though I think it’s in pretty good shape. But of course one never knows.
I’d like to punch Mongo in the throat for what he did to this thing.
Marc
'61 F100 292Y
'66 Mustang Injected 428
'66 Q code Country Squire wagon


jayb

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Re: CJ love
« Reply #13 on: July 24, 2020, 05:58:38 PM »
Jay Brown
- 1969 Mach 1, Drag Week 2005 Winner NA/BB, 511" FE (10.60s @ 129); Drag Week 2007 Runner-Up PA/BB, 490" Supercharged FE (9.35 @ 151)
- 1964 Ford Galaxie, Drag Week 2009 Winner Modified NA (9.50s @ 143), 585" SOHC
- 1969 Shelby Clone, Drag Week 2015 Winner Modified NA (Average 8.98 @ 149), 585" SOHC

   

WConley

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Re: CJ love
« Reply #14 on: July 24, 2020, 06:48:46 PM »

Don't blame Mongo.... ;D

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=SKRma7PDW10

Nice!  One of my all time favorite movie characters.  Right up there with this guy:

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=hgfbafx137A
A careful study of failure will yield the ingredients for success.

turbohunter

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Re: CJ love
« Reply #15 on: July 25, 2020, 11:53:16 AM »
Couple questions for y’all.
After reading Jays book I’m thinking of keeping the Streetmaster on this engine. I’m not worried about any numbers correct deal. That and the right cam will make a nice little runner.
So, my questions.
See pics below. The manifold is a HUGE mismatch. Small runners into a large head port. I know that matching runners to port for street engines is not necessary. However this mismatch is so large I can’t see the harm in at least rounding out the manifold to match and maybe take a bit out of that floor. Thoughts?
Next question, cam.
I feel like putting a hydraulic roller in it. I’ve thought about solids and could be convinced to go that way but I don’t see anything above 6000 rpm for this thing. I love the way the old CJs sound. It’s going to be an automatic. It has a 4:30 gear in it now.
I’m feeling more and more like my old plan for the Fairlane is in the trash can and it’s now going to become an automatic CJ car. I could put it together pretty quick.



Marc
'61 F100 292Y
'66 Mustang Injected 428
'66 Q code Country Squire wagon


68fecyclone

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Re: CJ love
« Reply #16 on: July 25, 2020, 12:00:10 PM »
  My suggestion for that manifold, would be see if Joe Craine will work his magic on it. He does a good job with them. Rob
« Last Edit: July 25, 2020, 12:05:14 PM by 68fecyclone »

Tommy-T

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Re: CJ love
« Reply #17 on: July 25, 2020, 01:02:25 PM »
Valley Head Service can fix any head. They welded up a chamber in a Hi Riser head for me.

Looks like you got some nice parts. Internal balanced 428 rotating assembly with Le Mans rods.

Mag everything and look at the block closely. Then decide...cheaper or snowball expensive build.

I still think hydraulic lifters in an FE is icky. But hydraulic rollers are tempting.

Have fun!

turbohunter

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Re: CJ love
« Reply #18 on: July 25, 2020, 01:49:47 PM »
I just looked through my parts and I have a set of roller solids I bought off Brent in one of his sales.
Think I’ll stay relatively inexpensive. Of course I did say, relatively  ;D
Marc
'61 F100 292Y
'66 Mustang Injected 428
'66 Q code Country Squire wagon


jayb

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Re: CJ love
« Reply #19 on: July 25, 2020, 07:43:21 PM »
Marc, in my book there are some comparisons between leaving the Streetmaster ports stock and port matching them to the heads.  If you are looking at 425+ HP, I'd port match it.  But, only the top and sides, leave the floor of the intake alone.  And Joe does indeed do a heck of a job on those manifolds, if he is still willing to do it...
Jay Brown
- 1969 Mach 1, Drag Week 2005 Winner NA/BB, 511" FE (10.60s @ 129); Drag Week 2007 Runner-Up PA/BB, 490" Supercharged FE (9.35 @ 151)
- 1964 Ford Galaxie, Drag Week 2009 Winner Modified NA (9.50s @ 143), 585" SOHC
- 1969 Shelby Clone, Drag Week 2015 Winner Modified NA (Average 8.98 @ 149), 585" SOHC

   

turbohunter

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Re: CJ love
« Reply #20 on: July 25, 2020, 08:25:52 PM »
To me 425 hp sounds perfect for this deal.
I’m going to leave the bottom end pretty much as I received it just better. Of course I need new pistons so I’ll get a nice set. Going to leave it on the LeMans rods and the 1UB crank.
The cam I’ve been going back and forth with. I even gave FElony a call and batted choices around just to say hi. I’m not sure how far I want to go away from stock but I’d like to do a roller and don’t know how small cams jive with that choice in today’s offerings. But it will have to work with the Steetmaster. I stuck a caliper in the bore and measured 4.155 so I’m at about 432 cubes. It would seem 425 hp is in the realm of possibility with this setup.
A question just entered my head. How will a roller play with the springs on these heads. I’m having them checked so I’ll know what they are soon.
Marc
'61 F100 292Y
'66 Mustang Injected 428
'66 Q code Country Squire wagon


turbohunter

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Re: CJ love
« Reply #21 on: July 25, 2020, 08:36:06 PM »
But, only the top and sides, leave the floor of the intake alone.  And Joe does indeed do a heck of a job on those manifolds, if he is still willing to do it...
I have a feeling he’d tell me what you did. I know he’s retired ish and only doing interesting projects (hope that’s correct info Mr. Craine). I tell ya I wouldn’t mind just doing a little port match myself and don’t go more than an inch in.
Why leave the floor alone? That’s a big step.
Edit
Thinking more about it, it would probably mess up the good idle aspects of the manifold and slow the velocity.
« Last Edit: July 25, 2020, 08:41:17 PM by turbohunter »
Marc
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'66 Mustang Injected 428
'66 Q code Country Squire wagon


turbohunter

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Re: CJ love
« Reply #22 on: July 25, 2020, 08:48:51 PM »
Still chuckling about this.

Marc
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'66 Q code Country Squire wagon


blykins

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Re: CJ love
« Reply #23 on: July 26, 2020, 06:15:06 AM »
A 428CJ with no head work, 9.8:1, a factory iron CJ intake, and a fairly mild hydraulic roller (227/235 @ .050") makes 425 hp @ 5500 here. 

A hydraulic roller will sometimes play fairly with solid flat tappet springs.  You'll need somewhere around 140-150 lbs seat and 350-375 open depending on the goals.  Obviously a solid roller will require pressures much higher. 
Brent Lykins
Lykins Motorsports
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turbohunter

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Re: CJ love
« Reply #24 on: July 26, 2020, 08:06:46 AM »
Thanks Brent.
After sleeping on it I think I’ll have the heads flowed so I’m not just flailing in the wind about cam choice.
I’m sure that stock flow numbers have been posted before but I couldn’t find them this morning yet.
I’m trying to remember with this thing that I don’t want to go crazy. I want to preserve this engine as much as possible.

Found it on Stan Weiss’ site
Starts reversion after .500 lift from what I see there.
« Last Edit: July 26, 2020, 08:36:41 AM by turbohunter »
Marc
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'66 Mustang Injected 428
'66 Q code Country Squire wagon


blykins

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Re: CJ love
« Reply #25 on: July 26, 2020, 08:32:06 AM »
They’ll be in the 240’s/250’s.

With a Ferrea valve and good valve job I usually see low to mid 250’s.

I think I have flow numbers somewhere, maybe in the dyno section.
Brent Lykins
Lykins Motorsports
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Custom Roller & Flat Tappet Camshafts
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blykins

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Re: CJ love
« Reply #26 on: July 26, 2020, 08:46:30 AM »
Brent Lykins
Lykins Motorsports
Custom FE Street, Drag Race, Road Race, and Pulling Truck Engines
Custom Roller & Flat Tappet Camshafts
www.lykinsmotorsports.com
brent@lykinsmotorsports.com
www.customfordcams.com
502-759-1431
Instagram:  brentlykinsmotorsports
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turbohunter

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Re: CJ love
« Reply #27 on: July 26, 2020, 08:53:32 AM »
Interesting
Here’s the link for Stans

http://users.erols.com/srweiss/tablehdc.htm#Ford_Big_Block

You have to kinda go between Keith Craft and Bill Ballingers info but it shows reversion and yours and others did not.
« Last Edit: July 26, 2020, 08:55:46 AM by turbohunter »
Marc
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'66 Mustang Injected 428
'66 Q code Country Squire wagon


Heo

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Re: CJ love
« Reply #28 on: July 26, 2020, 08:53:57 AM »
They’ll be in the 240’s/250’s.

With a Ferrea valve and good valve job I usually see low to mid 250’s.

I think I have flow numbers somewhere, maybe in the dyno section.

Is that with a 45 degree seat?



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blykins

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Re: CJ love
« Reply #29 on: July 26, 2020, 09:00:21 AM »
They’ll be in the 240’s/250’s.

With a Ferrea valve and good valve job I usually see low to mid 250’s.

I think I have flow numbers somewhere, maybe in the dyno section.

Is that with a 45 degree seat?

Yes sir.  45° seat with a 30° back cut.
Brent Lykins
Lykins Motorsports
Custom FE Street, Drag Race, Road Race, and Pulling Truck Engines
Custom Roller & Flat Tappet Camshafts
www.lykinsmotorsports.com
brent@lykinsmotorsports.com
www.customfordcams.com
502-759-1431
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blykins

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Re: CJ love
« Reply #30 on: July 26, 2020, 09:03:27 AM »
Interesting
Here’s the link for Stans

http://users.erols.com/srweiss/tablehdc.htm#Ford_Big_Block

You have to kinda go between Keith Craft and Bill Ballingers info but it shows reversion and yours and others did not.

Looks like they all kept going up, which is what you want.   You won't be able to see reversion/turbulence, it has to be heard on the bench.  You know it when you hear it. 
Brent Lykins
Lykins Motorsports
Custom FE Street, Drag Race, Road Race, and Pulling Truck Engines
Custom Roller & Flat Tappet Camshafts
www.lykinsmotorsports.com
brent@lykinsmotorsports.com
www.customfordcams.com
502-759-1431
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turbohunter

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Re: CJ love
« Reply #31 on: July 26, 2020, 10:35:48 AM »
Crap you’re right. I transposed one line onto another.
Marc
'61 F100 292Y
'66 Mustang Injected 428
'66 Q code Country Squire wagon


turbohunter

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Re: CJ love
« Reply #32 on: July 31, 2020, 12:21:50 PM »
Have the heads at Valley Head service being repaired.
I took the short block to QMP for an extensive checkup. Full pressure, mag, sonic and baking.
I’m scared about the water jackets. They’ve been sitting for a long time and actually developed a cap on the crud that was inside.
Be a couple weeks at least.
Marc
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'66 Mustang Injected 428
'66 Q code Country Squire wagon


WConley

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Re: CJ love
« Reply #33 on: July 31, 2020, 05:00:59 PM »
Marc -

I'd love to see how the head weld repairs turn out, and how much it lightened your pocket.  I have a cammer head with a cracked rocker shaft pedestal that could use some love...

I bet your block water jackets are fine.  It's not like they've been sitting years with salt water in them.
A careful study of failure will yield the ingredients for success.

turbohunter

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Re: CJ love
« Reply #34 on: July 31, 2020, 05:29:01 PM »
Thank you for those good vibes.
I’ll take some good pics and fill you in on money spent. Turns out that once it got cleaned it was apparent that it needed 4 or 5 helicoils on the exhaust side of the bad head also.
Cross fingers that’s the worst of it.
Marc
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'66 Mustang Injected 428
'66 Q code Country Squire wagon


turbohunter

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Re: CJ love
« Reply #35 on: August 08, 2020, 11:18:45 AM »
A question for you smart people.
Just a question I’m rolling around in my head.
Porting CJ heads. Obviously I don’t have any “leave as stock obligations” with these N heads.
I’m thinking bang for the buck here. Is porting worth it? I’ve read maybe just exhaust porting is a good deal but that’s just reading on the net and not word of mouth from the guys that do it for real.
What makes sense? Porting is not cheap and I’m probably going to have just over a grand into the restoration and valve job. However I would like to gather all the ponies I can reasonably. BTW it has what I think are the original valves in it (Bump on the intakes) and it looks like they can take another valve job fairly easily.
I realize one guys reasonable spending is not another guys but me not being familiar with N heads leads me to throw the question out there.
Thanks
Marc
'61 F100 292Y
'66 Mustang Injected 428
'66 Q code Country Squire wagon


Joe-JDC

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Re: CJ love
« Reply #36 on: August 08, 2020, 12:39:22 PM »
Porting will up the horsepower at least 30 if done right.  The intake manifold needs to have some work on it if the heads get ported.  Some of the replacement valves have the bump in the intake valve just like the Ford valves.  I just broke down a pair of CJ heads yesterday with off brand intake valves in one head but they looked like the factory valves in the other head.  Changing the valves to 11/32 stems, going oversize to 2.100, or 2.125 with 45* seat will help with improving flow without shrouding them.  Hardened exhaust seats and 1.680" exhaust valves at the minimum.  As you can see, the price just keeps going up, and that is why most folks just go TFS or BBM or Edelbrock.  Joe-JDC
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turbohunter

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Re: CJ love
« Reply #37 on: August 08, 2020, 01:01:28 PM »
Thank you Mr. Craine.
I know it’s simpler to go with new heads and I have before. I just have a love affaire with the older stuff. I’d like to have a nice running real CJ with as many original parts as makes sense.
Marc
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'66 Mustang Injected 428
'66 Q code Country Squire wagon


blykins

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Re: CJ love
« Reply #38 on: August 09, 2020, 06:25:20 AM »
I would pick a horsepower goal and then see what you have to do to meet that goal.

Those heads with just a valve job and good valves would support 450-ish hp with a streetable setup.
Brent Lykins
Lykins Motorsports
Custom FE Street, Drag Race, Road Race, and Pulling Truck Engines
Custom Roller & Flat Tappet Camshafts
www.lykinsmotorsports.com
brent@lykinsmotorsports.com
www.customfordcams.com
502-759-1431
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turbohunter

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Re: CJ love
« Reply #39 on: August 09, 2020, 07:54:37 AM »
Aah great.
My hp goal is 425.
I should say WAS until you piped up. ;D
« Last Edit: August 09, 2020, 01:08:35 PM by turbohunter »
Marc
'61 F100 292Y
'66 Mustang Injected 428
'66 Q code Country Squire wagon


blykins

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Re: CJ love
« Reply #40 on: August 09, 2020, 08:57:05 AM »
No issues then.  I've got two 428 CJ builds in the dyno section that made that much with no port work or any exotic parts.
Brent Lykins
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turbohunter

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Re: CJ love
« Reply #41 on: August 11, 2020, 01:24:49 PM »
Well we have issues.
First though the repair is finished and looks just fine. Timeserts were installed in 4 bad bolt holes plus the ear repair.
Mr. Conley the weld up repair and the timesert is about 170/180 bucks. Less than I expected. 45 minutes on the welding plus the timesert prep/install.





The issues are that the guys at the shop don’t want to put hardened seats in because there is almost no backing head material under parts of the seats. As well as the seat depths are all over the place.
As we talked about what makes sense, the idea was floated to run solid lifters with the seats that are already installed as that may ease the hot spot pressure on them.
Hope these pics make sense to you. Putting a finger under the seat there is just nothing there. I asked about welding some more material in there and they didn’t like that idea both cost wise and the weld would be harder than the head material causing more problems.
Anyway, here are the pics of that.







So it all comes down to how much do I want to save this CJ. I know, I know, aluminum heads would solve all my problems but that isn’t the point here. Although I’m starting to question my sanity.
I’m figuring I could leave these seats in and drive it sparingly. It certainly will never be a set of race‘heavy duty heads and I’m starting to revise my hp desires.
Wuch y’all think?
Marc
'61 F100 292Y
'66 Mustang Injected 428
'66 Q code Country Squire wagon


blykins

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Re: CJ love
« Reply #42 on: August 11, 2020, 01:29:22 PM »
IMO, new hardened seats are not critical. 
Brent Lykins
Lykins Motorsports
Custom FE Street, Drag Race, Road Race, and Pulling Truck Engines
Custom Roller & Flat Tappet Camshafts
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WConley

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Re: CJ love
« Reply #43 on: August 11, 2020, 02:22:28 PM »
Agree with Brent.  If you were pulling trailers up the Grapevine every day for ten years, you'd see an issue.  For the load and amount of use that engine will see, it will last longer than you.

Thumbs up on the repair!  I'm going to have to make a little stop up there!  Mine will be more expensive because the SOHC head will probably need a line bore after welding the rocker shaft support...

Thanks for the update Marc!

- Bill
A careful study of failure will yield the ingredients for success.

turbohunter

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Re: CJ love
« Reply #44 on: August 11, 2020, 02:26:27 PM »
You gents are good for my soul.
Marc
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427Fastback

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Re: CJ love
« Reply #45 on: August 11, 2020, 03:35:13 PM »
You guys must have better fuel down there than we have in Canada...My Iron 427 heads lost all 8 exhaust seats in 17,000 miles.The CJ in the 66 already had seats put in and I question the seat support..I kept the cam and spring pressure conservative.Last 390 I pulled apart needed 8 seats...I would at the very least run a additive.....JMO...Cory
1968 Mustang Fastback...427 MR 5spd (owned since 1977)
1967 Mustang coupe...Trans Am replica
1936 Diamond T 212BD
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turbohunter

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Re: CJ love
« Reply #46 on: August 11, 2020, 03:52:26 PM »
Yup have thought about that.
This car won’t get a lot of mileage so cost isn’t a factor with an additive.
Marc
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Re: CJ love
« Reply #47 on: August 11, 2020, 04:55:22 PM »
I went through this over the last few years on several engines. I'm currently running 1 390, 1 489BBC, and 2 small blocks (in the same boat) and none of them have hard seats. So far I haven't had any trouble with them. The boat is the one I worry about the most since it's under a load all the time and it's the only thing I run an additive in. So far it's got 300 hours of WOT on each engine I think last time I looked at my notes, and a bunch of part throttle and idle time and the valve adjustment isn't changing and the leak down was still acceptable. I'm sure it's on borrowed time, but so far.....

The 390 and the BBC I don't run an additive in and they're both fine as well. Neither one sees a lot of sustained load. Both are in "shop" trucks. Mostly they run to the parts store and are the get home vehicles for when I drive the latest hoopty to the shop and it won't drive out again!

Depends on how much you want to drive it.

In my case, at the time I figured it was cheaper to do a "quick" freshen up on the 390 and BBC heads and run them and if I still own either of them when the exh seats become a problem I'll swap to modern aluminum, so far the time hasn't come yet.

cjshaker

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Re: CJ love
« Reply #48 on: August 12, 2020, 01:03:30 PM »
Just adding my experience here.
I ran C4 heads in the 390 in my Highboy. C4 heads are known for the same issue with lack of support for hardened exhaust seats. Since it was going in a hard working Highboy, I had decided to use hardened seats before I knew of this issue. The very experienced gentleman who did the machine work thought it would be okay, and we're talking about at least 30+% of the seat support was gone.

I ran those heads for over 23 years in my Highboy, with lots of abuse. 2 years ago, I gave them a light valve lapping, and with no other work than a good cleaning (and a couple new valves from bad pitting), threw them on the 390 in my '65 Galaxie and drove to Atlanta and back, from NW Ohio. I have not seen a single issue with them. That engine regularly got spun to 5500, and occasionally to almost 6k. I'm convinced, with good installation, the lack of support is not an issue unless you're going to be thrashing the engine hard in a racing environment.

The Medium Riser heads in my Mach do not have hardened seats. You know what it's been through, thousands of street miles on Drag Week and at home, racing DW, a couple of other events and the FE reunion. I use low lead race fuel on the track, but street driving during DW always saw 93 Premium. I usually keep a mix in it at home, because I know I'll be having some fun with it anytime I drove it. I have yet to see an issue with the heads, with no hardened seats.

Blair used hardened seats on the C4 heads that I bought off of him and put in my F350, which pulls my heavy car trailer. He originally built the engine with a spirited cruiser in mind, and knew of the support issue. I think he doesn't have a problem with it either, assuming good installation.

It almost seems to me you could go either way and be fine, unless pulling heavy loads like Bill said. Then I'd definitely opt for the seats.
Doug Smith


'69 R-code Mach 1, 427 MR, 2x4, Jerico, 4.30 Locker
'70 F-350 390
'55 Ford Customline 2dr
'37 Ford Coupe

turbohunter

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Re: CJ love
« Reply #49 on: August 12, 2020, 02:06:21 PM »
Yeah this car will see light duty except for maybe Drag Week. It’s still on my bucket list. If all goes the way I think it will, we’ll be moving back there in the foreseeable future and that will make for an easier tow (not that that’s an excuse but.....It is). The thing is I have a DW motor that I’ve been collecting parts for for a while now. So the CJ is just a labor of love to save a piece of history (and you never know if you’ll run across a mustang body in need of a heart).
Meanwhile it can help me to get the Fairlane up and running. If folks would send me my damn parts I could get the mustang out of the garage and roll the Fairlane in. But things are at least moving forward and I’m happy to learn about parts I have not had before.
Marc
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'66 Mustang Injected 428
'66 Q code Country Squire wagon


turbohunter

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Re: CJ love
« Reply #50 on: August 12, 2020, 02:40:40 PM »
Oh great, more good news.
Just got word that every part in the block is junk. Crank is way cracked, rods cracked, more pistons broken, bearings are trashed.
Whoever assembled this thing just slammed it together.
Block still has to be gone over. Hopefully it survived.

If it was easy anyone could do it. ;D
« Last Edit: August 12, 2020, 04:29:54 PM by turbohunter »
Marc
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WConley

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Re: CJ love
« Reply #51 on: August 12, 2020, 10:58:21 PM »
Yikes!  Sounds like the Shelby KR came out ahead in this deal  :-[  Hopefully the block checks out OK...
A careful study of failure will yield the ingredients for success.

turbohunter

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Re: CJ love
« Reply #52 on: August 13, 2020, 06:58:08 AM »
It’s funny, Gary gave me a call yesterday. I think he heard I was having trouble. He has parts. He also is taking his engine to the same place I took the short block to, QMP.
He collected the parts in case he needed them to complete he engine for his KR. He as assured me that if he doesn’t need them they would be available to me. I think I know the history of the KR engine and it SHOULD be ok. If his engine is a wreck and needs the parts then no sweat, we’re even.
Bottom line is both of us are fully aware.
Marc
'61 F100 292Y
'66 Mustang Injected 428
'66 Q code Country Squire wagon


Nightmist66

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Re: CJ love
« Reply #53 on: August 13, 2020, 07:20:28 PM »
Yikes!  Sounds like the Shelby KR came out ahead in this deal  :-[  Hopefully the block checks out OK...


The old saying, No good deed goes unpunished, comes to mind. Reminds me of trying to build my current mill. I was on number 3 or 4 block and can't list all of the things that fought along the way. I don't think there was one single part that actually fit without modification. Then, I do a break-in on the test stand and everything goes south despite doing everything by the book....Round two made it into the car and is currently driving. I'm still waiting for something catastrophic to happen at the least opportune time.

But hey Marc, you got this.  ;)
Jared



66 Fairlane GT 390 - .035" Over 390, Wide Ratio Top Loader, 9" w/spool, 4.86

turbohunter

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Re: CJ love
« Reply #54 on: September 04, 2020, 06:31:44 PM »
Block has been magged, pressure checked and baked.
It’s good. Whew. Now we’re cookin. They didn’t mention a sonic check but I’ll make sure that gets done. I’ll just give it a hone anyway.
Got the heads back assembled. Since they’re kinda frankensteinish I didn’t want to spend more than I needed to with them so I left the 3/8 valves in them. Had them do a nice valve job. Old springs were garbage so they put a set of Elgin’s on there. 110 closed, 350 open. Rueben smoothed out the steps (in the chamber) around the valves and set them up nice and even. The valve guides were an absolute mess. Many were in upside down. On the bad head the stem seats were so screwed up that he had to machine them down and use smaller seals.
I know, I know why bother when I could buy a set of aluminum heads and get more power. That’s not the point for me. I want to save these heads and I’m going to keep trying to find more. They’re kinda like that 3 legged dog that you just wanna take care of.
I’ve been mulling over in my head what to do about the crank. The 1UB is a pile so I have to get another. I have a very generous offer from a fantastic guy in our forum for a 1U. And I am considering that. I’ve been down this road before and I know it will cost me more for what I want than just buying a new cast Scat and a set of rods.
I’m kind of hung up on how much arm I want. Part of me wants to stay with a 4 inch stroke but the other devil on my shoulder is saying “go for cubes moron”. Can the stock CJ heads support more arm or would they rather stay with a 4 inch stroke. These are the questions running through my mind.
I love this shit.
Marc
'61 F100 292Y
'66 Mustang Injected 428
'66 Q code Country Squire wagon


mike7570

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Re: CJ love
« Reply #55 on: September 04, 2020, 07:44:57 PM »
Got a crank for you in classifieds!
Just pick up some light pistons and rods to get the balancing cost in line.

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Re: CJ love
« Reply #56 on: September 04, 2020, 08:39:41 PM »
Part of me wants to stay with a 4 inch stroke but the other devil on my shoulder is saying “go for cubes moron”.

Listen to the devil...
Jay Brown
- 1969 Mach 1, Drag Week 2005 Winner NA/BB, 511" FE (10.60s @ 129); Drag Week 2007 Runner-Up PA/BB, 490" Supercharged FE (9.35 @ 151)
- 1964 Ford Galaxie, Drag Week 2009 Winner Modified NA (9.50s @ 143), 585" SOHC
- 1969 Shelby Clone, Drag Week 2015 Winner Modified NA (Average 8.98 @ 149), 585" SOHC

   

turbohunter

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Re: CJ love
« Reply #57 on: September 04, 2020, 08:47:56 PM »
LOLOLOL
Marc
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My427stang

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Re: CJ love
« Reply #58 on: September 04, 2020, 08:48:43 PM »
I have a .010/.010 IUB if you need one, Magged and polished but has been run at .010
---------------------------------
Ross
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turbohunter

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Re: CJ love
« Reply #59 on: September 05, 2020, 07:27:17 AM »
Thanks for the crank offers guys but I have a little bit of an in with the industry so I’m thinking a new one is in my future.
After sleeping on it I’m starting to agree with the devil (and Jay, or are they the same  ;) ) that some cubes would not be a bad thing. That would make it easy to reach my initial goal of 425 hp and later would be a solid base for aluminum heads when I move on from my CJ learning process. In the back of my mind is my brother who has a ‘69 mustang with no motor. It’s a strange car in that the vin says it’s a 351 car but it has reinforced shock towers. I didn’t think 351 cars had that. Can anyone clear that up? It would be nice to build him a CJish engine.
Anyway back to the motor. I’m curious how you guys think the CJ heads will do with say 460 ish cubes (.030/.035 over with a 4.250 stroke).
« Last Edit: September 05, 2020, 07:34:41 AM by turbohunter »
Marc
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Gregwill16

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Re: CJ love
« Reply #60 on: September 05, 2020, 08:49:23 AM »
Marc the reinforced shock towers was big block only, from the factory. I think the Boss 302 had them as well. Very well could have been added in the past or more to the story.
« Last Edit: September 05, 2020, 08:53:53 AM by Gregwill16 »

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Re: CJ love
« Reply #61 on: September 05, 2020, 10:48:33 AM »
Marc -  If it was me I'd go with the devil.  You'll pick up boatloads of torque on the bottom end. 

The added displacement also lets you run a bigger cam and still get velocity in the ports / good idle manners.  The stock heads will need a good plan for cam, compression, and ignition timing if you want to run pump gas.  (Here's where the bigger cam helps too by bleeding dynamic compression ratio.)  The guys here could certainly point you in the right direction for the future aluminum heads.

My philosophy has always been to use the best stuff, that covers the widest range of future possibilities, when you've got the thing apart.  It's such a pain to do it again!
A careful study of failure will yield the ingredients for success.

turbohunter

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Re: CJ love
« Reply #62 on: September 05, 2020, 11:43:36 AM »
Thank you Bill and Greg. Bill that’s where I was go in with the good base of parts. And why I’m going with new. I did not think of being able to go bigger cam and the idle characteristics. Thank you. The gent that rebuilt my heads was talking about a limit of .580 lift with the current set up. Of course springs can change out, that’s not a big deal.
Marc
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67xr7cat

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Re: CJ love
« Reply #63 on: September 05, 2020, 12:07:44 PM »
Thanks for the crank offers guys but I have a little bit of an in with the industry so I’m thinking a new one is in my future.
After sleeping on it I’m starting to agree with the devil (and Jay, or are they the same  ;) ) that some cubes would not be a bad thing. That would make it easy to reach my initial goal of 425 hp and later would be a solid base for aluminum heads when I move on from my CJ learning process. In the back of my mind is my brother who has a ‘69 mustang with no motor. It’s a strange car in that the vin says it’s a 351 car but it has reinforced shock towers. I didn’t think 351 cars had that. Can anyone clear that up? It would be nice to build him a CJish engine.
Anyway back to the motor. I’m curious how you guys think the CJ heads will do with say 460 ish cubes (.030/.035 over with a 4.250 stroke).

The reinforced shock towers started showing up in 1968 want to say around mid year on BB cars. On 69/70 you will find them on B302, 351, and BB cars.  Most 351 cars have the reinforced, but not always, guess depended on parts on hard.  There is a 68 Cougar, original 390 car that was well documented that had one of each!

turbohunter

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Re: CJ love
« Reply #64 on: September 05, 2020, 12:12:37 PM »
Cool, thank you.
Marc
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'66 Q code Country Squire wagon


Heo

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Re: CJ love
« Reply #65 on: September 05, 2020, 12:30:28 PM »
Thanks for the crank offers guys but I have a little bit of an in with the industry so I’m thinking a new one is in my future.
After sleeping on it I’m starting to agree with the devil (and Jay, or are they the same  ;) ) that some cubes would not be a bad thing. That would make it easy to reach my initial goal of 425 hp and later would be a solid base for aluminum heads when I move on from my CJ learning process. In the back of my mind is my brother who has a ‘69 mustang with no motor. It’s a strange car in that the vin says it’s a 351 car but it has reinforced shock towers. I didn’t think 351 cars had that. Can anyone clear that up? It would be nice to build him a CJish engine.
Anyway back to the motor. I’m curious how you guys think the CJ heads will do with say 460 ish cubes (.030/.035 over with a 4.250 stroke).

The reinforced shock towers started showing up in 1968 want to say around mid year on BB cars. On 69/70 you will find them on B302, 351, and BB cars.  Most 351 cars have the reinforced, but not always, guess depended on parts on hard.  There is a 68 Cougar, original 390 car that was well documented that had one of each!

I have done bodywork on a lot of Mustangs through the years. Saw at least one with one of eash, some with two  torque boxes
some with one althoug they was coupes, different export braces two piece and one piece, one piece have brackets welded to the
shock towers. one 70 Mach one with Swedish Stil Autoliv three point rollup seatbelts with fomoco cast on them and Ford partnr
Mustangs are full of surprices



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cjshaker

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Re: CJ love
« Reply #66 on: September 06, 2020, 01:54:33 AM »
The reinforced shock towers started showing up in 1968 want to say around mid year on BB cars. On 69/70 you will find them on B302, 351, and BB cars.  Most 351 cars have the reinforced, but not always, guess depended on parts on hard.  There is a 68 Cougar, original 390 car that was well documented that had one of each!

Not sure where that info comes from, but I have never seen reinforced shock towers on a '69 351 Mustang, and I've seen quite a few. Same goes for '70s. There are several '69 351 Mach 1's in my area currently, and none have them. My buddies '70 351 Cleveland Mach 1 does not have them. My old M code '69 Mach didn't have them either.
Doug Smith


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'70 F-350 390
'55 Ford Customline 2dr
'37 Ford Coupe

cattleFEeder

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Re: CJ love
« Reply #67 on: September 06, 2020, 06:51:36 AM »
My 70 351C cougar eliminator has them.
Remember, RPM is your friend

67xr7cat

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Re: CJ love
« Reply #68 on: September 06, 2020, 01:50:27 PM »
My 70 351C cougar eliminator has them.

I am a Cougar guy so maybe the Mustang being cheaper why bother LOL

This is all well known information and can be traced back to books used to judge these cars in concours classes.  Just because you have not seen one, does not mean they do not exist. I have seen plenty, so perhaps you need to see more cars.

Again Ford was not consistent on this and depended on what was on hand is the common belief.  The 351 seen them both ways. Have been told depended on options like of it had the comp suspension, A/C etc... but honestly never looked into it that far.  If you are really interested contact the guys that do concours judging.  Btw some cars also came with stock type towers that were welded. That supposed to have started around Dec 67, and the re-inforced wrap around towers around April 68.  Been around Cougars over 40 years, and used to judge some concours classes back in the 80-90's so what I know is from those guys who honestly are way too nuts about this original stuff and why I stopped doing it.

Heo, the 2nd torque box started for the 1968 model year, at least for the Cougar which was only a coupe in 67/68.  The one piece shock tower brace was used on shelby and cars to be exported. Guess why a lot of guys call it the export brace.,

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Re: CJ love
« Reply #69 on: September 06, 2020, 02:25:59 PM »
In Sweden we have a mix of  new sold and later imports. Most of them
have a hard life behind them with crashes several, engineswaps etc
So what was there from the beginning is hard to say



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67xr7cat

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Re: CJ love
« Reply #70 on: September 06, 2020, 03:49:11 PM »
In Sweden we have a mix of  new sold and later imports. Most of them
have a hard life behind them with crashes several, engineswaps etc
So what was there from the beginning is hard to say

Hi Heo, for sure these cars are 50 y/o and a lot can happen.  Funny story, was a 67 Cougar XR-7 bought new and moth balled until the guy died.  Guy who worked for him bought it in the late 90's in around 2004 the CCOA was allowed ot look at the car.  Car had something like 2 miles on it. the history of the car well documented and know to be the real deal. Anyway after looking the car over they did a report in the CCOA newsletter. They noted that by the mfg date the radiator hoses should have used worm screw clamps.  While this car had an upper rad hose that had one worm screw clamp and one band clamp type and that maybe they need to change the concours judging book.  Bottom line Ford was making cars! keep the lines running rule of the day!

turbohunter

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Re: CJ love
« Reply #71 on: October 02, 2020, 02:53:42 PM »
Got the sonic test back.
It’s the best one I’ve ever had. Your results may vary ;D



Marc
'61 F100 292Y
'66 Mustang Injected 428
'66 Q code Country Squire wagon


jayb

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Re: CJ love
« Reply #72 on: October 02, 2020, 03:12:37 PM »
Dude - bad news on the sonic check.  Those numbers are way off.  Bore spacing on the FE is 4.630".  Factor bore for the 428 is 4.130".  This leaves 0.500" spacing from bore to bore on the 428.  Looking at your map for one example, the middle numbers between cylinders 1 and 2 are .228" and .230", total of .458".  That means that there would be only .042" between the outside of the bores.  That never happens.  Look through the frost plug hole between cylinders 1 and 2, and observe the gap between the cylinders.  Stick a drill bit in there, and find the largest one that will fit.  Subtract the drill bit diameter from 0.500" and that will give you an idea of how much material thickness you have for cylinders 1 and 2 combined, at that point.

That sonic checker was badly out of calibration...
Jay Brown
- 1969 Mach 1, Drag Week 2005 Winner NA/BB, 511" FE (10.60s @ 129); Drag Week 2007 Runner-Up PA/BB, 490" Supercharged FE (9.35 @ 151)
- 1964 Ford Galaxie, Drag Week 2009 Winner Modified NA (9.50s @ 143), 585" SOHC
- 1969 Shelby Clone, Drag Week 2015 Winner Modified NA (Average 8.98 @ 149), 585" SOHC

   

turbohunter

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Re: CJ love
« Reply #73 on: October 02, 2020, 03:26:03 PM »
Running over there with bits in hand >:(
Marc
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'66 Q code Country Squire wagon


WConley

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Re: CJ love
« Reply #74 on: October 02, 2020, 04:19:59 PM »
Yeah, Jay beat me to it.  Even in my oxycontin-induced haze, those numbers seemed WAY off. 

I threw out my back a few days ago working on the house  >:( >:(  The pain got bad enough that I have to break out the big guns.  It will pass, but life is not fun right now.  Jay - you might get a few amusing FEA studies out of me right now!!

Marc - Have him check the thickness of a China wall with his probe.  Hopefully he's using a proper curved probe as well.  You never know what people try to pass off these days.
A careful study of failure will yield the ingredients for success.

turbohunter

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Re: CJ love
« Reply #75 on: October 02, 2020, 06:01:50 PM »
Just got back from the shop.
They calibrate every block individually on the China rail.
I did the drill test and got a 3/16 in each. Snug in some, tight in others. The block is very, very clean.
So taking the middle of 5 and 6 we have .208 on 5 and .241 next to it on 6. Then adding the 3/16 drill bit at .1875.
.6365
I talked to them about it and they stood by their numbers but will redo it Monday morning.
Marc
'61 F100 292Y
'66 Mustang Injected 428
'66 Q code Country Squire wagon


turbohunter

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Re: CJ love
« Reply #76 on: October 02, 2020, 06:04:42 PM »
Bill I don’t envy you on the back deal.
I’m a club member. Seems like it takes longer and longer to recover from that stuff.
But good drugs help :D
Marc
'61 F100 292Y
'66 Mustang Injected 428
'66 Q code Country Squire wagon


WConley

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Re: CJ love
« Reply #77 on: October 02, 2020, 06:26:25 PM »
Bill I don’t envy you on the back deal.
I’m a club member. Seems like it takes longer and longer to recover from that stuff.
But good drugs help :D

Yes indeed Marc!  If it rolls, flies, or floats, chances are I've crashed it.  I've been screwed back together so many times that there's an ample supply of good stuff here.  Fortunately I can only stand opiates for a short time.  The supply is safe for quite a while!

I'll be curious on the revised sonic numbers.  At least you can trust the relative values, which show decently low core shift.
« Last Edit: October 02, 2020, 06:32:01 PM by WConley »
A careful study of failure will yield the ingredients for success.

jayb

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Re: CJ love
« Reply #78 on: October 02, 2020, 10:55:30 PM »
Just got back from the shop.
They calibrate every block individually on the China rail.
I did the drill test and got a 3/16 in each. Snug in some, tight in others. The block is very, very clean.
So taking the middle of 5 and 6 we have .208 on 5 and .241 next to it on 6. Then adding the 3/16 drill bit at .1875.
.6365
I talked to them about it and they stood by their numbers but will redo it Monday morning.

The 3/16" drill bit result is promising, probably still a good block regardless of the sonic test.  Hopefully they will get it right next week and you'll get valid results.
Jay Brown
- 1969 Mach 1, Drag Week 2005 Winner NA/BB, 511" FE (10.60s @ 129); Drag Week 2007 Runner-Up PA/BB, 490" Supercharged FE (9.35 @ 151)
- 1964 Ford Galaxie, Drag Week 2009 Winner Modified NA (9.50s @ 143), 585" SOHC
- 1969 Shelby Clone, Drag Week 2015 Winner Modified NA (Average 8.98 @ 149), 585" SOHC

   

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Re: CJ love
« Reply #79 on: October 03, 2020, 04:49:11 AM »
Just show them the math, Marc.  It's hard to argue against math and logic. 
Brent Lykins
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turbohunter

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Re: CJ love
« Reply #80 on: October 03, 2020, 06:10:24 AM »
Just show them the math, Marc.  It's hard to argue against math and logic.
Yup, I showed them the math. They were head scratching’ cause they believe in their procedure and were faced with a guy sticking a drill bit in between cylinders. Agreeing to do it again was a win.
This has actually been great for me as I now fully understand and can visualize what .1875 is. Or .241. Up to this point it was just numbers although I understood what they meant it wasn’t visual in my little brain. I realize that may be a “duh” to most of you but it’s kind of cool to learn what a dumbass you are.
This motor will teach me a lot.
Marc
'61 F100 292Y
'66 Mustang Injected 428
'66 Q code Country Squire wagon


WConley

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Re: CJ love
« Reply #81 on: October 03, 2020, 04:55:12 PM »

it’s kind of cool to learn what a dumbass you are.


I still LOL when I think of this one.  47 year old me waking up from surgery after a ski crash in Breckenridge, CO.  The phone rings.  It's my dad.  "Son - I thought by now you would have run out of stupid!"

I deserved it.  The things my poor parents had to go through...

Marc - The engine will teach you a lot.  The most challenging builds can be the most satisfying.  This whole story is just so cool!
A careful study of failure will yield the ingredients for success.

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Re: CJ love
« Reply #82 on: October 05, 2020, 12:23:09 PM »
Marc,

If you buy me a hamburger and fries from In-N-Out I'll run down to the Valley with my Ebay sonic checker and we can have a "mapping party".

I have a "C" scratch .030 428 block with numbers about half of what you have there...but...you never know until you check.

This is one reason I say sonic checking is voodoo. Is it a viable science? Sure, when the planets align and sun spots are minimal.

Much like flow testing cylinder heads. Seems like stuff I have flowed don't get the happy numbers many others get.

BTW, according to your sonic check you could bore it .100 and still have a pretty good block for an FE. ::)
« Last Edit: October 05, 2020, 12:29:08 PM by Tommy-T »

turbohunter

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Re: CJ love
« Reply #83 on: October 05, 2020, 01:01:02 PM »
It might be fun to use another instrument on the block if the numbers come back the same.
I haven’t been to In and Out in a while. Hmm, I’ll give you a ring and let you know.
Come to think of it, I should buy my own. Which would not stop an In and Out run.
Thanks for the offer.
Marc
'61 F100 292Y
'66 Mustang Injected 428
'66 Q code Country Squire wagon


Heo

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Re: CJ love
« Reply #84 on: October 05, 2020, 02:43:07 PM »
I got some suspect numbers one time. Changed the battery and
They where back to normal



The defenition of a Gentleman, is a man that can play the accordion.But dont do it

turbohunter

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Re: CJ love
« Reply #85 on: January 09, 2021, 10:08:02 AM »
Well it’s been three months since all that sonic check upheaval.
What I decided was that since it did well on the drill bit test and all other tests were good I had them just hone it to straighten everything up. So as little as possible. I’ll sonic it when I get it back.
This all led to another interesting thing for me. I thought that you finished your bore and ordered pistons to fit the bore. What the owner of the shop told me is the process they have adopted over the years is they now get the cylinder close on an initial bore/hone. Then they tell you what the finished spec will be and they have you order pistons. When they have the new pistons in their hands they now finish the bore after measuring and confirming piston size. I know, seems overkill but in sitting down and talking with him he told me that these days pistons are usually right on as compared to the old days but every now and then they get pistons that are off. Since they do a ton of race motors it forced them to adopt this strategy.
It’s interesting to me that they take such care with things but that sonic check was so far off. BTW, thank you all for getting me to think differently. That was an ah hah moment for me in many ways.

Ok onward.
The bore is going to finish at 4.170. Pistons are ordered. Shooting for 9.5 static.
Heads measure 69cc’s. I had them built leaving the original valves in it but could be talked into new valves if it makes a big enough difference. I had them finished before I knew the insides of the block were junk because if you remember they had to be reconstructed so I threw the shop a bone and had them finish the heads.
Buying a 4.250 crank and 6.7 rods.
Lots of air to suck through those heads but as mentioned above that could work well here in LA.
Going to go roller cam.
It will go behind an auto trans in either car.

Just want a nice running torquey (is that a word) motor. I’m not looking for a big hp number here.
Going to pop it into the Fairlane first. It may end up in the wagon but that motor is running great right now so why not get the Fairlane running. It has a 427 BBM coming eventually but kind of waiting on that to see how certain things develop.
Marc
'61 F100 292Y
'66 Mustang Injected 428
'66 Q code Country Squire wagon


turbohunter

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Re: CJ love
« Reply #86 on: March 18, 2021, 01:22:17 PM »
Got my block and rotating assembly back yesterday.
Spent the morning putting my hands on it by chasing all the bolt holes, cleaning leftover crud in the water jackets and just eyeing everything like cam bearings to make sure all is well. Only thing I found was in the rear cam bearing. When I first looked at it, it was from the bad angle (see pics), then I saw the good angle. Alignment looks ok to me, whatcha’ all think?
One thing I did not know (maybe a po did it). The oil supply gallery to the pump is 1/2 in diameter. Is that a CJ thing? Took a quick look on the Cobra Jet site and did not find anything but I will keep looking.
QMP did a nice job on everything. Just needs a little more cleaning.





« Last Edit: March 18, 2021, 01:24:21 PM by turbohunter »
Marc
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'66 Mustang Injected 428
'66 Q code Country Squire wagon


jayb

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Re: CJ love
« Reply #87 on: March 18, 2021, 04:09:06 PM »
Previous owner for sure on the oil passage, they didn't come like that.  Hard to tell on the cam bearing, a close up photo picks up minor scratches that really aren't a concern.  If it feels smooth to your finger I think it'd be OK.
Jay Brown
- 1969 Mach 1, Drag Week 2005 Winner NA/BB, 511" FE (10.60s @ 129); Drag Week 2007 Runner-Up PA/BB, 490" Supercharged FE (9.35 @ 151)
- 1964 Ford Galaxie, Drag Week 2009 Winner Modified NA (9.50s @ 143), 585" SOHC
- 1969 Shelby Clone, Drag Week 2015 Winner Modified NA (Average 8.98 @ 149), 585" SOHC

   

turbohunter

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Re: CJ love
« Reply #88 on: March 18, 2021, 04:17:00 PM »
Yeah I think it’s ok. There’s a couple rag hairs here that need to be cleaned out but it’s all smooth. The telescopic shots on these darn cameras really make it look worse than it is.
Been working on my mic’ing and measuring skills this afternoon. ::)
Marc
'61 F100 292Y
'66 Mustang Injected 428
'66 Q code Country Squire wagon


turbohunter

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Re: CJ love
« Reply #89 on: March 21, 2021, 10:55:46 AM »
Initial fitment check of main bearings.
I’m going to label this under, things you don’t notice unless you’re actually doing it all.
I checked another set of caps I have and they are the same.
Gives me the heebee geebees.



Marc
'61 F100 292Y
'66 Mustang Injected 428
'66 Q code Country Squire wagon


turbohunter

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Re: CJ love
« Reply #90 on: March 21, 2021, 11:09:06 AM »
BTW
On the subject of main bearings. When you go to buy them it is a bit confusing to the uninitiated. There is no Federal Mogul anymore. They are now branded as Speed Pro. Aaaaand Speed Pro is also the name of inexpensive parts. If you don’t know that FM became SP it can be confusing.
But such is the way of today’s corporate bs.
This has been a public service announcement.
Marc
'61 F100 292Y
'66 Mustang Injected 428
'66 Q code Country Squire wagon


turbohunter

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Re: CJ love
« Reply #91 on: March 22, 2021, 08:11:51 AM »
Spent Sunday measuring mains.
I’m finding that I’m not liking my bore gauge. I of course bought a Summit brand about a year or so ago and am finding it’s a bit hurky jerky and the measurements are not what I think they should be (probably me).
I’m going to have to spend a lot more time here. The learning curve is steep.

Just went out a used a little WD40 on the action and it seemed to smooth out.
« Last Edit: March 22, 2021, 08:35:33 AM by turbohunter »
Marc
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'66 Mustang Injected 428
'66 Q code Country Squire wagon


turbohunter

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Re: CJ love
« Reply #92 on: March 22, 2021, 03:11:15 PM »
Think I’m getting a new bore gauge.
I can’t duplicate any numbers. I’m working on my technique which at first was part of it but I’ve been at it now for a couple days and I can’t get the same measurements from one pass to the next. I think I’ll invest in a better tool and see if it’s me or my gauge.
Marc
'61 F100 292Y
'66 Mustang Injected 428
'66 Q code Country Squire wagon


RustyCrankshaft

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Re: CJ love
« Reply #93 on: March 22, 2021, 08:01:42 PM »
How much are the readings off and what brand bore gauge? Even a cheap (like a Fowler or other import) dial bore gauge should be fairly repeatable but not maybe to a half tho like a good bore gauge will.

If you're off a couple tho every time it might be technique.

turbohunter

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Re: CJ love
« Reply #94 on: March 22, 2021, 08:25:58 PM »
Just went and looked. No name on the tool but the instructions say Eastwood.
It’s some ummm, you know deal. Anyway I’m going to invest in a good one and keep working on my technique.
I have a solid .002 via caliper but I’m not going to trust that. I was able to get a .002 reading once on #1. But not twice and not on another. Came close but horshoes, hand grenades and atom bombs are good close.
Oh forgot to answer how much off. As much as .009.
« Last Edit: March 22, 2021, 08:28:43 PM by turbohunter »
Marc
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'66 Mustang Injected 428
'66 Q code Country Squire wagon


Barry_R

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Re: CJ love
« Reply #95 on: March 22, 2021, 09:05:22 PM »
BTW
On the subject of main bearings. When you go to buy them it is a bit confusing to the uninitiated. There is no Federal Mogul anymore. They are now branded as Speed Pro. Aaaaand Speed Pro is also the name of inexpensive parts. If you don’t know that FM became SP it can be confusing.

Actually that info is incorrect.  Federal-Mogul acquired Sealed Power and Speed-Pro in +/-1996.  Speed-Pro was/is the high performance brand for the Sealed Power product line and has been so since somewhere in the 1970s.  Standard replacement ent bearings are manufactured, packaged and sold under the Federal-Mogul brand.  The high performance engine bearing line manufactured by Federal-Mogul has been sold under the Speed-Pro brand since +/- 1998.

I know this because.......I am one of the guys that "did it"....

turbohunter

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Re: CJ love
« Reply #96 on: March 22, 2021, 10:20:50 PM »
Why incorrect? You can’t buy a FM 125M, it’s Speed Pro or Sealed Power.
But thanks for clearing it up.
Marc
'61 F100 292Y
'66 Mustang Injected 428
'66 Q code Country Squire wagon


jayb

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Re: CJ love
« Reply #97 on: March 23, 2021, 08:41:21 AM »
If you want a good dial bore gauge, figure on spending some dough, and get one that measures in tenths of a thousandth.  I've got a Mitutoyo that I'm very happy with.  I started off with a Fowler, and didn't get reliable results.

https://www.ebay.com/itm/MITUTOYO-511-753-2-0-6-0-Total-Range-0001-Graduation-Dial-Bore-Gage/273768609822?hash=item3fbde1781e:g:7d0AAOSweTlcj~dF
Jay Brown
- 1969 Mach 1, Drag Week 2005 Winner NA/BB, 511" FE (10.60s @ 129); Drag Week 2007 Runner-Up PA/BB, 490" Supercharged FE (9.35 @ 151)
- 1964 Ford Galaxie, Drag Week 2009 Winner Modified NA (9.50s @ 143), 585" SOHC
- 1969 Shelby Clone, Drag Week 2015 Winner Modified NA (Average 8.98 @ 149), 585" SOHC

   

blykins

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Re: CJ love
« Reply #98 on: March 23, 2021, 08:55:36 AM »
Two things I can see happening here:

1.  On some of the budget bore mics, there's a little spanner nut on the very end.  It's shaped like a disc and has two little holes on it.  I've seen those little nuts loosen up and do screwy things to the results.

2.  The jist of operation is that you measure the OD of the journal with an outside mic and then set your bore gauge to the mic.  When you set the bore gauge to the mic, you have two axes of movement there and you need to zero both of them.  So you get the anvil and plunger inside the outside mic, hold it still and move it up and down until you find the shortest distance between the micrometer anvils, then zero your dial.  Also, you can "twist" the bore gauge in the other plane of rotation and you will need to zero it there too. 

If you've ever watched a machinist or engine builder check clearances, you'll see them insert the bore gauge and then give it "the wiggle".  The wiggle is finding the shortest distance, or the point where the bore mic is perfectly perpendicular to the part they're measuring, whether it's a cylinder or a bearing housing diameter.  I guess what I'm trying to say is that you can't just put the bore gauge in and get the right number, you have to find the shortest distance.

If you watch this video, you'll see me check it.  I do it a lot slower than normal because I'm looking through the camera to see if it's showing, but it shows the movement. 

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=TRUSzF4fCt8
« Last Edit: March 23, 2021, 09:05:21 AM by blykins »
Brent Lykins
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Custom FE Street, Drag Race, Road Race, and Pulling Truck Engines
Custom Roller & Flat Tappet Camshafts
www.lykinsmotorsports.com
brent@lykinsmotorsports.com
www.customfordcams.com
502-759-1431
Instagram:  brentlykinsmotorsports
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turbohunter

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Re: CJ love
« Reply #99 on: March 23, 2021, 09:54:00 AM »
Thanks guys
Yes I’ve got he technique down and have watched guys do it so I’m getting pretty sure of what I’m doing.
Brent I’ll look into your comment on the end nut that sounds promising.
The one thing I’ve learned so far is that you need tools that make YOU the only factor that can change.
So investing I will go.
Marc
'61 F100 292Y
'66 Mustang Injected 428
'66 Q code Country Squire wagon


Barry_R

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Re: CJ love
« Reply #100 on: March 23, 2021, 09:57:34 AM »
Why incorrect? You can’t buy a FM 125M, it’s Speed Pro or Sealed Power.
But thanks for clearing it up.

You could never buy a F-M branded 125M for the past 25 years.  Always been a Speed-Pro part.  At least since I sorted out the branding strategy in +/- 1996.

Now thats not true for Australia - or for the occasional packaging department F up - but those are separate subjects for another thread.

blykins

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Re: CJ love
« Reply #101 on: March 23, 2021, 09:58:48 AM »
Thanks guys
Yes I’ve got he technique down and have watched guys do it so I’m getting pretty sure of what I’m doing.
Brent I’ll look into your comment on the end nut that sounds promising.
The one thing I’ve learned so far is that you need tools that make YOU the only factor that can change.
So investing I will go.

FWIW, I've got a $500 Mitutoyo bore mic (the one in the video) and I've got an $85 economy bore mic that I bought from MSC back in 1999.  They read exactly the same.  However, the Mitutoyo has a higher resolution. 
Brent Lykins
Lykins Motorsports
Custom FE Street, Drag Race, Road Race, and Pulling Truck Engines
Custom Roller & Flat Tappet Camshafts
www.lykinsmotorsports.com
brent@lykinsmotorsports.com
www.customfordcams.com
502-759-1431
Instagram:  brentlykinsmotorsports
YouTube:  Lykins Motorsports

turbohunter

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Re: CJ love
« Reply #102 on: March 23, 2021, 10:05:57 AM »
Why incorrect? You can’t buy a FM 125M, it’s Speed Pro or Sealed Power.
But thanks for clearing it up.

You could never buy a F-M branded 125M for the past 25 years.  Always been a Speed-Pro part.  At least since I sorted out the branding strategy in +/- 1996.

Now thats not true for Australia - or for the occasional packaging department F up - but those are separate subjects for another thread.
Interesting, thanks Barry.
Us guys that haven’t been doing this don’t have a clue. If you look in the dyno section for bearing brand names there are many FM 125Ms listed. That’s all my psa was meant for, as info for noobs.
« Last Edit: March 23, 2021, 03:34:15 PM by turbohunter »
Marc
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'66 Mustang Injected 428
'66 Q code Country Squire wagon


RustyCrankshaft

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Re: CJ love
« Reply #103 on: March 23, 2021, 05:03:55 PM »
Thanks guys
Yes I’ve got he technique down and have watched guys do it so I’m getting pretty sure of what I’m doing.
Brent I’ll look into your comment on the end nut that sounds promising.
The one thing I’ve learned so far is that you need tools that make YOU the only factor that can change.
So investing I will go.

FWIW, I've got a $500 Mitutoyo bore mic (the one in the video) and I've got an $85 economy bore mic that I bought from MSC back in 1999.  They read exactly the same.  However, the Mitutoyo has a higher resolution.

I think some of the import stuff from a good supplier like MSC can be ok as your experience shows. I've got some MSC and McMaster import tools I keep on the truck and have had good luck with a lot of it. But it can be a bit of a crapshoot with import stuff - I've had some real crap too.

I've got a Mitutoyo and a Brown and Sharpe dial bore gauges and you know what you're getting when you buy those (and the price tag that goes along with them).

turbohunter

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Re: CJ love
« Reply #104 on: March 26, 2021, 11:59:07 AM »
I went for the Mitutoyo since everyone likes it.
But while I wait for it I decided to take apart the one I have and at least clean it.
It was readily apparent why it was unreliable. There was rust in the main shaft affecting the plunger. It was pretty filthy and the end was, shall we say, not quality.
So I cleaned and lubed it as well as run a file across that end.
It’s much better but still not consistent although the degree of inconsistency has diminished to 3 to 5 thousandths instead of 9. I think the fact that it is not graduated into the .0001 and the quality is just not there make it unusable for precise work.
Can’t wait to try it against the Mitutoyo.
I know you builders may have gone through this when you were wee little engine gurettes. But for us old guys that are just getting back into building/assembling engines again this could be useful. I’m going to keep documenting my mistakes as well as victories as a learning tool.
The lesson from this one is, don’t buy cheap precision tools.



« Last Edit: March 26, 2021, 07:30:01 PM by turbohunter »
Marc
'61 F100 292Y
'66 Mustang Injected 428
'66 Q code Country Squire wagon


67xr7cat

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Re: CJ love
« Reply #105 on: March 26, 2021, 06:50:13 PM »
If it does not have .0001" graduations it most likely is not a bore gauge intended for measuring bearing clearances. When I was looking to by one I found a lot of bore gauges intended to measure cylinder wall diameter.  Most of those are only good to .0005" which is not good enough for measuring bearings. I found you have to take a good look at the dial to know.  Another way is the price even a cheap dial bore gauge that will go to .0001" will cost you over $100.

turbohunter

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Re: CJ love
« Reply #106 on: March 26, 2021, 07:31:48 PM »
Yup, makes sense.
I couldn’t find one that goes .0001 without being a couple hundred bucks.
Marc
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'66 Mustang Injected 428
'66 Q code Country Squire wagon


turbohunter

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Re: CJ love
« Reply #107 on: March 27, 2021, 01:46:27 PM »
Since I’m waiting for some tools I thought I’d rummage through the old parts to see what was done to the engine and if anything was save able.
First impression is, holy crap, they beat this thing to a pulp. The pistons have damn near exploded in the cylinders. Thank God they didn’t detonate entirely. Every piston had damage of some sort. Ring wear was interesting.

Enjoy the carnage below.









Marc
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'66 Mustang Injected 428
'66 Q code Country Squire wagon


cjshaker

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Re: CJ love
« Reply #108 on: March 28, 2021, 10:50:42 AM »
Yikes! It looks like the rings were holding the pistons together  :(
Doug Smith


'69 R-code Mach 1, 427 MR, 2x4, Jerico, 4.30 Locker
'70 F-350 390
'55 Ford Customline 2dr
'37 Ford Coupe

turbohunter

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Re: CJ love
« Reply #109 on: March 28, 2021, 03:06:32 PM »
Just for an excercise in self abuse. I bought the eBay sonic checker to measure my block and compare to the machine shop numbers.
My numbers were better but still to much to fit in the block. I may try switching out batteries and trying it again as these batteries came with it and who knows how long they’ve been sitting.
These are center of the barrel measurements. I took measurements then filed the head to fit the cylinder arc and measured again. The measurements got smaller and more stable. I then used the 3/16 drill bit size (.1875) that I was able to fit between the cylinders to add to the adjoining cylinder walls and you see the end measurements in the middle.
Also when I calibrated the checker on the supplied .157 piece of metal supplied with the checker and matched it to my calipers it was an exact match.
So I understand how the shop guys were scratching their heads but as we all  ::) know, it can’t be right.
Suffice to say, I think this is a nice block which may be why it survived the abuse this engine took.
« Last Edit: March 29, 2021, 07:41:26 AM by turbohunter »
Marc
'61 F100 292Y
'66 Mustang Injected 428
'66 Q code Country Squire wagon


jayb

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Re: CJ love
« Reply #110 on: March 30, 2021, 07:46:30 AM »
My sonic checker has several different materials that it can be set for.  It's easy for it to be set up for the wrong one.  Have you tried it out on the back wall of the block?  That is an area that you can measure with calipers, and then compare to the sonic checker reading, and of course it will be the same material as the bores.  I wouldn't trust the calibration standard that they give you...

Jay Brown
- 1969 Mach 1, Drag Week 2005 Winner NA/BB, 511" FE (10.60s @ 129); Drag Week 2007 Runner-Up PA/BB, 490" Supercharged FE (9.35 @ 151)
- 1964 Ford Galaxie, Drag Week 2009 Winner Modified NA (9.50s @ 143), 585" SOHC
- 1969 Shelby Clone, Drag Week 2015 Winner Modified NA (Average 8.98 @ 149), 585" SOHC

   

turbohunter

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Re: CJ love
« Reply #111 on: March 30, 2021, 08:05:48 AM »
That may be why it’s perfect on their supplied checking bloc and different on the engine block. Different material.
I’ll get into it more.
Marc
'61 F100 292Y
'66 Mustang Injected 428
'66 Q code Country Squire wagon


blykins

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Re: CJ love
« Reply #112 on: March 31, 2021, 05:42:19 AM »
You may need to radius the transducer too, to fit the shape of a cylinder wall. 
Brent Lykins
Lykins Motorsports
Custom FE Street, Drag Race, Road Race, and Pulling Truck Engines
Custom Roller & Flat Tappet Camshafts
www.lykinsmotorsports.com
brent@lykinsmotorsports.com
www.customfordcams.com
502-759-1431
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turbohunter

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Re: CJ love
« Reply #113 on: March 31, 2021, 10:28:37 AM »
Yup did that. I called it the head instead of the transducer because I couldn’t remember what it was called when I wrote that post.
Part of getting older. ::)
Marc
'61 F100 292Y
'66 Mustang Injected 428
'66 Q code Country Squire wagon


gt350hr

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Re: CJ love
« Reply #114 on: March 31, 2021, 10:38:25 AM »
    Factory cast pistons are not very durable when hit with detonation. ring lands break as you see and they also break off chunks of skirt as seen.
« Last Edit: April 05, 2021, 01:47:08 PM by gt350hr »

turbohunter

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Re: CJ love
« Reply #115 on: April 02, 2021, 01:07:48 PM »
Ok starting to get serious about assembly.
Measured up the crank today.
Scat 4.250
Here’s my make shift work station and sheets. Since I’m so paranoid about my measurements as this is my first time doing it all myself I bought all the fun tools for making it as easy as possible like the Goodson stand. It’s nice. Let’s you concentrate on measurements and not steadying the crank.
On to bearing fit.





Marc
'61 F100 292Y
'66 Mustang Injected 428
'66 Q code Country Squire wagon


turbohunter

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Re: CJ love
« Reply #116 on: April 02, 2021, 03:18:37 PM »
Right off the bat, there is no comparison between the cheaper Eastwood bore gauge and the Mitutoyo. Not even in the same ballpark. I was able to get very consistent numbers with the Mitutoyo. I’m running right around .003 (.0028 to .0032) on all the mains.
I popped the crank into the blocked and snugged the mains to check end play. With very little pressure on the screw driver I moved it back and forth, it sits at .0035 with zero pressure so I may be a little tight there.
Didn’t get crazy spinning the crank but wanted to feel it turn. Very even. No stiff spots.
Question
It was one line honed with the Ford main cap bolts you see here. I would like to get some ARPs. Any problem with that? I understand studs might be different but I’m thinking bolts are ok. Am I right?

« Last Edit: April 02, 2021, 04:04:18 PM by turbohunter »
Marc
'61 F100 292Y
'66 Mustang Injected 428
'66 Q code Country Squire wagon


turbohunter

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Re: CJ love
« Reply #117 on: April 02, 2021, 06:55:21 PM »
Hah, after messing with the sound structure in this darn sonic checker I finally got a calibration I can believe and matched with the calipers on the china rail
I only cared about the cylinder to cylinder clearance today as that was the thinner areas (not that it’s thin) and the area that the math applies to.
Sorry it’s messy but I think you get the idea.
I may get recharged tomorrow and map the whole thing but I’m pretty happy with this block so.......

« Last Edit: April 02, 2021, 07:00:21 PM by turbohunter »
Marc
'61 F100 292Y
'66 Mustang Injected 428
'66 Q code Country Squire wagon


jayb

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Re: CJ love
« Reply #118 on: April 02, 2021, 10:24:21 PM »
That certainly is a good 428 block.  I'll bet you'll have thicknesses over 0.200" on the thrust surfaces.

I don't think you'll have any issues with ARP bolts, and you may not with studs either...
Jay Brown
- 1969 Mach 1, Drag Week 2005 Winner NA/BB, 511" FE (10.60s @ 129); Drag Week 2007 Runner-Up PA/BB, 490" Supercharged FE (9.35 @ 151)
- 1964 Ford Galaxie, Drag Week 2009 Winner Modified NA (9.50s @ 143), 585" SOHC
- 1969 Shelby Clone, Drag Week 2015 Winner Modified NA (Average 8.98 @ 149), 585" SOHC

   

chilly460

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Re: CJ love
« Reply #119 on: April 05, 2021, 06:07:56 AM »
If you want a good dial bore gauge, figure on spending some dough, and get one that measures in tenths of a thousandth.  I've got a Mitutoyo that I'm very happy with.  I started off with a Fowler, and didn't get reliable results.

https://www.ebay.com/itm/MITUTOYO-511-753-2-0-6-0-Total-Range-0001-Graduation-Dial-Bore-Gage/273768609822?hash=item3fbde1781e:g:7d0AAOSweTlcj~dF

This is good info, I didn't want to come on here blaming tools, but I've been fiddling with my Fowler bore gauge trying to get consistent readings on a 352 and have failed several times. 

turbohunter

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Re: CJ love
« Reply #120 on: April 05, 2021, 08:05:02 AM »
The difference for me was almost literally night and day.
Marc
'61 F100 292Y
'66 Mustang Injected 428
'66 Q code Country Squire wagon


cjshaker

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Re: CJ love
« Reply #121 on: April 05, 2021, 11:50:06 AM »
With free shipping, Amazon has them $10 cheaper, and you can't beat their return policy.

https://www.amazon.com/Mitutoyo-511-753-Bore-Gage-2923SB-10/dp/B00FJIH6IC

I just happened to think, does Ebay charge tax on purchases like this? If not, the Ebay one would be cheaper then.
« Last Edit: April 05, 2021, 12:19:14 PM by cjshaker »
Doug Smith


'69 R-code Mach 1, 427 MR, 2x4, Jerico, 4.30 Locker
'70 F-350 390
'55 Ford Customline 2dr
'37 Ford Coupe

turbohunter

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Re: CJ love
« Reply #122 on: April 05, 2021, 02:44:28 PM »
I don’t know about you guys but all of the sudden I find myself perusing measuring device websites. Just bought a Starrett replacement dial indicator to replace the cheapo on my magnetic stand.
Another rabbit hole to go down. :) Don’t care.
Marc
'61 F100 292Y
'66 Mustang Injected 428
'66 Q code Country Squire wagon


turbohunter

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Re: CJ love
« Reply #123 on: April 07, 2021, 04:25:39 PM »
Made some headway today.
Got finished fretting over the crank and clearances and installed it and the cam for good.
I did get some ARP bolts for the caps. I did not use them on the #5 cap in order to save myself any pan clearance grief. ARP says 95 lbs with their goop so that’s what I did.
Everything went together like “butta”. The only thing not perfect was when I installed the thrust cap I didn’t have enough clearance. Had plenty on the top but as soon as I installed the bottom it went away. I could adjust the cap and get maybe .0030-.0035. So I took off the cap and gave it a little sanding. Re installed and had a good solid .0045 with no pressure. Mission accomplished, bolted it all together.
Really really sweet rotation on both cam and crank. Feel real good about it.
Did Brents little Dow Corning silicone squeeze deal on the side seals for #5. It looks like it will work fine. Watching where the ooze comes from gives you peace of mind.
I’m going to use one of Jays adjustable timing sets as I have it here and why spend another hundred bucks for another. It’s a quality piece and hey if the cam comes in one degree off, easy peazy.
Now I just have to wait for keys as I forgot to get some.





Marc
'61 F100 292Y
'66 Mustang Injected 428
'66 Q code Country Squire wagon


WConley

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Re: CJ love
« Reply #124 on: April 07, 2021, 06:23:54 PM »
Lookin' good Marc!   :D
A careful study of failure will yield the ingredients for success.

turbohunter

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Re: CJ love
« Reply #125 on: April 10, 2021, 03:17:12 PM »
I know it doesn’t sound like much but it was the better part of a morning for me.
I installed the timing set. I know you should be able to throw those on in a minute.
But I think I found something else you only think about when you’re doing everything yourself.
The Pioneer PK-9 keys need a little massaging. At least to fit on Mr. Browns beautiful timing set.
Jay told me he likes a tight fit (two, three.....joke) so he makes them that way. On a Scat crank snout it’s pretty darn tight. The Scat snout is a good .001 bigger than the gear inside diameter. I could have gotten it on but I didn’t want to beat on my junk (two, three....next joke) that much. After talking to Jay and him assuring me I was ok I started to cold fit the gear onto the keys and snout. I could have heated up the key and been ok but I was a bit worried about the key fit. They were 2 or 3 thou higher than the gear key way and would not fit in the keyway. So I took some fine grit Emory cloth to the inside of the gear and filed the keys down a couple thou. After two times trying for a fit it finally went on and good and snug as it should be. Totally aware that I could go overboard on filing but it has a nice tight interference fit.
Effortless rotation on the crank and cam together. It really feels wonderful.

OBTW
Finished gapping rings.
Math says tops at .0187
Seconds at same.
I gapped the tops at a snug .019
And the seconds at .022


« Last Edit: April 10, 2021, 05:01:12 PM by turbohunter »
Marc
'61 F100 292Y
'66 Mustang Injected 428
'66 Q code Country Squire wagon


blykins

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Re: CJ love
« Reply #126 on: April 10, 2021, 05:01:55 PM »
Couple things you can check here:

1.  The lower right thrust plate bolt is often too long, which blocks off the feed hole from the front cam bearing to the distributor shaft/gear.
2.  The length of threads inside the cam can vary from core to core.  I always do a depth check from the outside of the timing gear to the depth of the cam bolt hole.  I have ARP cam bolts in 1.5/1.75/2.0 lengths and they vary from build to build.  You want adequate engagement, but obviously not too much so that the threads bottom out before it's tight, or not enough that the bolt strips out when torqued.
3.  Check for adequate camshaft end play.  I surface grind new thrust plates, 10 at a time, so I can have adequate thrust plate.  Out of the box, they generally don't have any end play, or just a couple of thou.
4.  Make sure you have clearance between the cam dowel pin and the cam bolt washer. 
Brent Lykins
Lykins Motorsports
Custom FE Street, Drag Race, Road Race, and Pulling Truck Engines
Custom Roller & Flat Tappet Camshafts
www.lykinsmotorsports.com
brent@lykinsmotorsports.com
www.customfordcams.com
502-759-1431
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turbohunter

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Re: CJ love
« Reply #127 on: April 10, 2021, 05:26:35 PM »
Thanks I did check the length of the cam retainer bolt.
With the retainer thickness it clears great. Jay supplies the bolts with his set. They have a low head and are correct length.
I did check the cam bolt, all good.
I used the original retainer plate.
Cam has .0085 end play
The cowl pin does stick out about .017

Marc
'61 F100 292Y
'66 Mustang Injected 428
'66 Q code Country Squire wagon


blykins

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Re: CJ love
« Reply #128 on: April 10, 2021, 05:42:54 PM »
You need to whack that dowel pin off so that the washer isn't loaded on one side.  The pin needs to be below flush.   It only needs to stick out when it has to engage a one piece pump eccentric.
Brent Lykins
Lykins Motorsports
Custom FE Street, Drag Race, Road Race, and Pulling Truck Engines
Custom Roller & Flat Tappet Camshafts
www.lykinsmotorsports.com
brent@lykinsmotorsports.com
www.customfordcams.com
502-759-1431
Instagram:  brentlykinsmotorsports
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turbohunter

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Re: CJ love
« Reply #129 on: April 10, 2021, 06:26:23 PM »
Mental note made for when using electric fuel pump. :)
Marc
'61 F100 292Y
'66 Mustang Injected 428
'66 Q code Country Squire wagon


Barry_R

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Re: CJ love
« Reply #130 on: April 10, 2021, 07:50:15 PM »
Scat often does not make the keyway deep enough.  I think they cut the key slot before they finish grind the snout on the crank, and don't take the final grind diameter into account.  We end up trimming the keys a little bit on a regular basis.

blykins

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Re: CJ love
« Reply #131 on: April 11, 2021, 06:08:22 AM »
Mental note made for when using electric fuel pump. :)

Yep, if you're using a mechanical pump and eccentric, then the dowel is correct and the washer will sit flush when the eccentric is on. 

The cam guys usually supply two pins:  one for a one-piece eccentric and one for a two-piece or no eccentric. 
Brent Lykins
Lykins Motorsports
Custom FE Street, Drag Race, Road Race, and Pulling Truck Engines
Custom Roller & Flat Tappet Camshafts
www.lykinsmotorsports.com
brent@lykinsmotorsports.com
www.customfordcams.com
502-759-1431
Instagram:  brentlykinsmotorsports
YouTube:  Lykins Motorsports

turbohunter

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Re: CJ love
« Reply #132 on: April 11, 2021, 08:42:32 AM »
Thanks Barry that’s good to know.
Brent this dowel came installed and was the only dowel in the box. I’ll get ‘er whacked this mornin’.
Marc
'61 F100 292Y
'66 Mustang Injected 428
'66 Q code Country Squire wagon


turbohunter

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Re: CJ love
« Reply #133 on: April 11, 2021, 01:48:46 PM »
Well I promised I would show this build warts and all in order to pass along lessons learned.
Here’s a wart. I attempted to take the timing gears off to get to the dowl pin to cut it off. But. As I was trying to pull the gears I decided I could not get the crank gear off without damaging the chain or bending the gear. So I reverted to my shade tree mechanic background and ground it down just below surface. It’s a very inelegant fix but it is a fix. And it hides mostly under the washer. Ok, lesson learned.








Marc
'61 F100 292Y
'66 Mustang Injected 428
'66 Q code Country Squire wagon


Stangman

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Re: CJ love
« Reply #134 on: April 11, 2021, 03:05:01 PM »
Like all the pictures especially the journal pics. Will use that soon.

turbohunter

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Re: CJ love
« Reply #135 on: April 11, 2021, 04:15:43 PM »
Like all the pictures especially the journal pics. Will use that soon.
That’s the beauty of this medium. How much of a chance would you or I have without the help we get from here. Take your bearing thread. The builders have been more than gracious with the info they are giving. And it’s up to us hobbyists to pass on information that may seem obvious to them but we have no idea. Like FM being renamed Speed Pro.
I think we all owe Mr. Brown a big thank you for keeping this forum on point and to the builders for their generous contributions.
FEs have become “a thing” again.
My dad’s pinging old 352 would be proud.
Marc
'61 F100 292Y
'66 Mustang Injected 428
'66 Q code Country Squire wagon


WConley

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Re: CJ love
« Reply #136 on: April 11, 2021, 05:37:39 PM »
I think Jay will be along to deliver a flogging!   :o

Seriously, that's a good way to get 'er done without risking damage to the timing set.
A careful study of failure will yield the ingredients for success.

turbohunter

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Re: CJ love
« Reply #137 on: April 11, 2021, 05:40:58 PM »
Thanks Bill. I think so too. It’s just to tight to chance it.
Marc
'61 F100 292Y
'66 Mustang Injected 428
'66 Q code Country Squire wagon


jayb

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Re: CJ love
« Reply #138 on: April 11, 2021, 10:48:56 PM »
I've done worse than that LOL!  I've also left the dowel pin a little proud of the gear and just let the washer bend when I tightened the bolt.  Not a hardened washer of course, just something to keep the pin from coming out.  Never had a problem...
Jay Brown
- 1969 Mach 1, Drag Week 2005 Winner NA/BB, 511" FE (10.60s @ 129); Drag Week 2007 Runner-Up PA/BB, 490" Supercharged FE (9.35 @ 151)
- 1964 Ford Galaxie, Drag Week 2009 Winner Modified NA (9.50s @ 143), 585" SOHC
- 1969 Shelby Clone, Drag Week 2015 Winner Modified NA (Average 8.98 @ 149), 585" SOHC

   

Barry_R

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Re: CJ love
« Reply #139 on: April 12, 2021, 08:12:01 AM »
Effective if not elegant solution to the problem.

I do not often disagree with Jay, but personally I would not recommend bending a washer.  The retention of the cam sprocket is actually the result of fastener clamp load, much more so than the dowel itself, which should primarily be a location item.  That's why we recommend a high quality (ARP or similar) fastener along with a very thick washer and a comparatively high torque value.  I have put a partial depth "dot" in a thick washer to accommodate an overly long dowel.  I have seen several cases where a hardware store quality washer deformed under clamp load, allowing the fastener to come loose and valvetrain havoc to follow.

blykins

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Re: CJ love
« Reply #140 on: April 12, 2021, 09:05:21 AM »
Effective if not elegant solution to the problem.

I do not often disagree with Jay, but personally I would not recommend bending a washer.  The retention of the cam sprocket is actually the result of fastener clamp load, much more so than the dowel itself, which should primarily be a location item.  That's why we recommend a high quality (ARP or similar) fastener along with a very thick washer and a comparatively high torque value.  I have put a partial depth "dot" in a thick washer to accommodate an overly long dowel.  I have seen several cases where a hardware store quality washer deformed under clamp load, allowing the fastener to come loose and valvetrain havoc to follow.

I agree, Barry.

A washer that's not thick or not hardened will lose tension over time. 

I had a batch of Pond aluminum heads that were not heat treated correctly.  When I would torque the head stud, it would not hold torque because the aluminum was deforming underneath. 

Same deal with a washer that has bent, is thin, or isn't hard enough.  It will eventually lose clamping force on the timing gear and cam.   The cam washers I use are probably 3/16"-1/4" thick and are hardened.  Cam bolt gets torqued at 70 lb-ft. 
Brent Lykins
Lykins Motorsports
Custom FE Street, Drag Race, Road Race, and Pulling Truck Engines
Custom Roller & Flat Tappet Camshafts
www.lykinsmotorsports.com
brent@lykinsmotorsports.com
www.customfordcams.com
502-759-1431
Instagram:  brentlykinsmotorsports
YouTube:  Lykins Motorsports

blykins

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Re: CJ love
« Reply #141 on: April 12, 2021, 09:19:07 AM »
On another note, I would add that everyone doing this at home should check for adequate fastener length.  Not only do the cam cores come in different thread pitch styles (7/16-14 and 7/16-20) but the depth is also different.  Sometimes I will use a 2" UHL and sometimes I use a 1.750" UHL.  One of my assembly steps is to mock up the timing gear and eccentric and see how much thread engagement I get into the cam. 
Brent Lykins
Lykins Motorsports
Custom FE Street, Drag Race, Road Race, and Pulling Truck Engines
Custom Roller & Flat Tappet Camshafts
www.lykinsmotorsports.com
brent@lykinsmotorsports.com
www.customfordcams.com
502-759-1431
Instagram:  brentlykinsmotorsports
YouTube:  Lykins Motorsports

frnkeore

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Re: CJ love
« Reply #142 on: April 12, 2021, 11:00:44 AM »
If the thread is 7/16 x 20, the torque should be 78 lb-ft.
Frank

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Re: CJ love
« Reply #143 on: April 12, 2021, 11:20:43 AM »
If the thread is 7/16 x 20, the torque should be 78 lb-ft.



This has worked for me for the past 15 years. 

FWIW, ARP doesn't change the torque spec of their fasteners depending on thread pitch.  They only change it depending on the material.  For instance, a 180ksi fastener such as a Ford 302 main bolt gets 70 lb-ft and a 200ksi fastener such as a Ford 302 main stud gets 80. 
« Last Edit: April 12, 2021, 11:25:59 AM by blykins »
Brent Lykins
Lykins Motorsports
Custom FE Street, Drag Race, Road Race, and Pulling Truck Engines
Custom Roller & Flat Tappet Camshafts
www.lykinsmotorsports.com
brent@lykinsmotorsports.com
www.customfordcams.com
502-759-1431
Instagram:  brentlykinsmotorsports
YouTube:  Lykins Motorsports

frnkeore

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Re: CJ love
« Reply #144 on: April 12, 2021, 02:32:47 PM »
Brent, did you intentionally leave this out of the chart?

Torque, strength and yield, are all based on the Stress Area of the bolt. That is .1063 for a 7/16x14 and .1187 for 7/16x20. ARP recommends, their bolts be loaded to 75% of yield. You can not yield both 7/16x14 and 7/16x20 to 75% at the same torque or stretch. 

Frank

turbohunter

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Re: CJ love
« Reply #145 on: April 12, 2021, 03:12:36 PM »
70+ seems like a lot of torque for a bolt that doesn’t seem to need it.
I would’ve thought 45 or 50 lbs would be enough.
« Last Edit: April 12, 2021, 03:23:49 PM by turbohunter »
Marc
'61 F100 292Y
'66 Mustang Injected 428
'66 Q code Country Squire wagon


Barry_R

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Re: CJ love
« Reply #146 on: April 12, 2021, 04:43:13 PM »
The SAE torque values (and all torque values) are friction measurements only, and are highly dependent upon the lubricant being used for assembly, and on the surface quality of the threaded members.  They also preclude any design variations such as the undercut shaft common to some high strength fasteners - which focus stretch loads into the smooth shaft rather than the rolled or cut thread minor diameters.  If you really feel the need to be accurate another method of measurement is required - torque angle is best in the case of a blind hole fastener where stretch cannot be measured.

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Re: CJ love
« Reply #147 on: April 12, 2021, 04:47:30 PM »
Hey, I didn't say that letting the washer bend was the right way to do it.  I just said that I did it  ;D
Jay Brown
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Re: CJ love
« Reply #148 on: April 12, 2021, 05:25:44 PM »
Brent, did you intentionally leave this out of the chart?

Torque, strength and yield, are all based on the Stress Area of the bolt. That is .1063 for a 7/16x14 and .1187 for 7/16x20. ARP recommends, their bolts be loaded to 75% of yield. You can not yield both 7/16x14 and 7/16x20 to 75% at the same torque or stretch.

No Frank, I didn't intentionally leave anything out, because that addendum was not listed on the page that I copied and pasted.

But I'm glad that you brought that up, because it highlights something very important:

"The torque values represented here are intended for general information only and bulk fasteners, not for specific installations." 

The cam bolts I buy are "bulk fasteners".  I buy them in bulk in different lengths and different thread pitches.  In addition, each installation is different:  it could be a cast iron cam, it could be a billet core cam, the thread lubricant could be different, etc, etc.

In addition to that, it's listed that they are "general torque instructions". 

I will still stand by my additional comment in that I have never seen ARP vary torque specs based on thread pitch only, but only based on material.  Even in "specific kit instructions", I have never seen a different spec for a fine threaded bolt.

One more thing...

I don't like at all that you inferred that I intentionally left something out to skew/mislead a point.   
« Last Edit: April 12, 2021, 05:31:04 PM by blykins »
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frnkeore

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Re: CJ love
« Reply #149 on: April 12, 2021, 07:33:17 PM »
Here we go again............

Brent, I know that you can't be wrong and you never are. But, with all do respect, you just are!

Finer threads have a larger CSA, just like a larger bolt has a larger CSA. There is no difference. It makes no difference what material the bolt is made of. It can be aluminum or 240K steel, the CSA never changes. A 1" aluminum bolt is weaker with a 8 pitch as opposed to a 1" bolt, with a 16 pitch and the 16 pitch. The 1x16 bolt will require a higher torque value, to attain 75% yield. Replace the word aluminum with 240k alloy steel and it will always be the same. The thread depth, is what makes the difference, alloys being the same. A 16 pitch thread has a depth of approx .0406 and a 8 pith, .0813. Therefore, it makes the root smaller along with the CSA.

As a graduate engineer, I'm surprised you would argue this point, it's simple mechanics. I'm posting a torque chart to demo what I'm talking about.

What I posted above, is the header to what you posted and the torque that ARP gives, is with engine oil. They don't recommend anything else.
Frank

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Re: CJ love
« Reply #150 on: April 12, 2021, 08:51:02 PM »
Hey, I didn't say that letting the washer bend was the right way to do it.  I just said that I did it  ;D

So did I  :)

Twice - - 'cuz I learn "hard"...

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Re: CJ love
« Reply #151 on: April 12, 2021, 08:53:11 PM »
Every ARP torque spec that I recall reading has been with their own lube specified.
Some guys seem to detest the newer "Ultra Lube", but ARP seems very fond of the stuff, and packages it with many of their fasteners.

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Re: CJ love
« Reply #152 on: April 13, 2021, 12:49:24 AM »
This is what I was talking about. Even though the ARP lube, comes closer to spec, on the first torque cycle, ALL lubes, still take at least 7 cycles to reach the end result. So, in my mind, engine oil is just as good as anything.
Frank

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Re: CJ love
« Reply #153 on: April 13, 2021, 06:23:28 AM »
Here we go again............

Brent, I know that you can't be wrong and you never are. But, with all do respect, you just are!

Finer threads have a larger CSA, just like a larger bolt has a larger CSA. There is no difference. It makes no difference what material the bolt is made of. It can be aluminum or 240K steel, the CSA never changes. A 1" aluminum bolt is weaker with a 8 pitch as opposed to a 1" bolt, with a 16 pitch and the 16 pitch. The 1x16 bolt will require a higher torque value, to attain 75% yield. Replace the word aluminum with 240k alloy steel and it will always be the same. The thread depth, is what makes the difference, alloys being the same. A 16 pitch thread has a depth of approx .0406 and a 8 pith, .0813. Therefore, it makes the root smaller along with the CSA.

As a graduate engineer, I'm surprised you would argue this point, it's simple mechanics. I'm posting a torque chart to demo what I'm talking about.

What I posted above, is the header to what you posted and the torque that ARP gives, is with engine oil. They don't recommend anything else.

Frank, I don't disagree with you on the materials engineering standpoint of it, but I will tell you that I will follow ARP's suggested torque specs for the fastener I'm using.   I will also make adjustments based on my experience level with these engines and the parts that I use.

I will also make the following comments:

1.  Torque specs vary depending on the material, fastener length, lubricant, thread design (rolled, etc.) and a myriad of other variables.  ARP has different torque specs for each material.

2.  I've never cycled any fastener 7 times, unless it's a fastener that's associated with a bearing clearance and I've had to loosen/tighten the fastener that many times in order to dial in clearances.  As a matter of fact, your higher end rods, such as Carrillo, Oliver, Pankl, etc., will specifically specify to cycle the fasteners 2-3 times to burnish in the fastener's seating surface and then you're done.   They will also specify which lubricant to use and I don't know of any quality rod manufacturer that specifies motor oil as a lubricant, because motor oil will not support the amount of pressure that's generated.   ARP used to show torque specs for using their ARP lubricant and motor oil both, and the torque specs were greatly different.  Now, with their most common fasteners, they will recommend ARP lube only, and when an ARP fastener (such as an L19, WS, etc.) is used on a high end rod where the torque spec on a 7/16" fastener will generate anywhere from 85-105 lb-ft of torque or up to .0065" of stretch, the rod manufacturer usually specifies something like a CMD high pressure lubricant.

3.  Torque spec isn't the end-all-be-all of tightening a fastener.  As Barry eluded to, it's the least accurate method of tightening a fastener.   Torque/angle is very accurate but in the end, we're all trying to stretch the bolt to the correct length.   On some fasteners, you can't check stretch, such as a head bolt, main bolt, head stud, main stud, etc.  So, we rely on the bolt manufacturer's specs for tightening that fastener.   In that instance, I'll pull out the piece of paper that comes with the fastener and use it. 

4.  When you have to use the torque (lb-ft) spec, you're more relying on faith that you got there, because you're trusting that the lubricant that's used is allowing the fastener to move freely, the fastener's seating surface is perfectly square, a washer isn't deforming, the finish is smooth, etc. 

Only when you start using higher end tools, such as digital torque wrenches, stretch gauges, etc., that you can see what happens to a lb-ft torque value when you tighten a fastener.   My digital torque wrench will measure lb-ft and degrees.  When I torque a fastener using torque-angle, it will spit back at me what lb-ft we ended up at.  I will tell you from experience that when the correct torque-angle is used and stretch is verified, the lb-ft value can vary by 5-6 lb-ft from fastener to fastener.

So, in regards to your bolt chart that you posted, that's all good for a Grade 2, Grade 5, or Grade 8 fastener, but it's not the end-all chart for those fasteners, because in all actuality (and I'll state again), torque specs vary with fastener length, the type of thread, the lubricant, etc.  Above that, I will still use ARP's suggested torque spec for the fastener I'm using.  Not only because I'm trusting that they have done their research, but my experience level gives me faith to do so. 

I know you'll have some sort of retort that attempts to disqualify my engineering background, engine building procedures, or whatever, *but I simply don't care*, and I'm done discussing this with you.

« Last Edit: April 13, 2021, 09:38:14 AM by blykins »
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Re: CJ love
« Reply #154 on: April 13, 2021, 08:41:55 AM »
To a degree, it all seems fairly moot to me. When was the last time anybody saw a failed rod bolt, main bolt or head bolt?
I know torque can affect clearance readings, so maintaining consistent practices throughout the build would be a high priority. And exactly how accurate is everyones torque wrench? 99.9%? 95%? At 95%, that's a variance of over 5 ft lbs. Does everyone have their torque wrenches calibrated to industry standards every year?

Not being argumentative, just pointing out some basic facts.
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Re: CJ love
« Reply #155 on: April 13, 2021, 09:03:12 AM »
To a degree, it all seems fairly moot to me. When was the last time anybody saw a failed rod bolt, main bolt or head bolt?


      This all started over an 8lb discrepancy on a camshaft bolt. Not a rod, head bolt, or main bolt. I’ve seen a rod bolt break.  Never seen a cam bolt break.
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Re: CJ love
« Reply #156 on: April 13, 2021, 09:37:43 AM »
To a degree, it all seems fairly moot to me. When was the last time anybody saw a failed rod bolt, main bolt or head bolt?
I know torque can affect clearance readings, so maintaining consistent practices throughout the build would be a high priority. And exactly how accurate is everyones torque wrench? 99.9%? 95%? At 95%, that's a variance of over 5 ft lbs. Does everyone have their torque wrenches calibrated to industry standards every year?

Not being argumentative, just pointing out some basic facts.

I've seen a rod bolt break.  I think Barry has too.  With no other symptoms or issues, just a rod bolt failure.

Totally agree on the accuracy of a lb-ft only torque wrench.  That's why torque-angle and rod bolt stretch methods are far more accurate.  When you measure a bolt stretch, you will see what it needs to make it stretch that far, so the accuracy of a torque wrench doesn't play a part in that.  I'm *not* saying that torque wrench accuracy is not important, just saying that when you use other methods of torquing, the accuracy of your wrench becomes less important.

Torque wrenches get calibrated here on a regular basis.

I haven't seen a cam bolt failure before, but I believe Barry has seen two....both due to washer issues.   
Brent Lykins
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Re: CJ love
« Reply #157 on: April 13, 2021, 10:32:48 AM »
     I have seen at least ten "stock LeMans rod bolt" failures over the years. Two were on NOS rods setting just put in an engine on the engine stand , never fired up.
Aftermarket rod bolts fail too , usually because they have been torqued too many times and never checked for stretch , simply "torqued".
    I've never hurt a main cap bolt but have ruined head bolts and studs because of my stupidity.

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Re: CJ love
« Reply #158 on: April 13, 2021, 03:47:17 PM »
One thing not mentioned is feel. I know not scientific, but sometime you torque a bolt and just feels wrong time to check everything. You can have a bolt overstretch and still meet a torque spec and fail. Defective fasteners do happen and why bolt stretch is best method when possible. When not torque feel can give important feedback.

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Re: CJ love
« Reply #159 on: April 13, 2021, 04:04:52 PM »
One thing not mentioned is feel...

That made me laugh!  When I snapped by hip skiing in Colorado, the surgeon told me about the screws he was going to put in.  We started talking about torque specs (yeah - I'm a nerd!) and he mentioned that he only used the bone screw manufacturer's chart as a rough reference.  The key for him was feel! 

I guess the penalty for stripping those out is pretty high.  They don't seem to make Helicoils or Time-serts for bones.
A careful study of failure will yield the ingredients for success.

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Re: CJ love
« Reply #160 on: April 13, 2021, 04:11:38 PM »
Now that made me laugh Bill.
Check this helicoil out from a surgery I had last week.
My dentist said he actually has a torque wrench to mount the tooth. That part is coming.
Marc
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Re: CJ love
« Reply #161 on: April 13, 2021, 04:23:10 PM »
Ok Marc.  This is going off the rails!  I raise you three titanium deck screws.  These are the actual ones the surgeon put in  :D

Seven years later I got them back when they put in a hip replacement.  I'm sure they'll be useful for hanging stuff in the shop:



Seriously - Good luck with the implant(s).

A careful study of failure will yield the ingredients for success.

turbohunter

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Re: CJ love
« Reply #162 on: April 13, 2021, 04:29:53 PM »
LOL
I’ve got a few of those in a knee.
Yeah we’ve pretty much jumped the track. We’ll get back on. I’m not worried.
« Last Edit: April 13, 2021, 07:02:05 PM by turbohunter »
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turbohunter

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Re: CJ love
« Reply #163 on: April 16, 2021, 05:39:12 PM »
Ok back to motors.
I had to work for the last few days  :P so while doing that I got my paperwork together in my engine book and noticed something strange. The rods had a 6800 in their PN which means 6.8 rod length. I ordered 6.7. Measured them up and sure enough they were 6.8. So another lesson, check pn’s when you unbox. Emailed Scat and they couldn’t have been nicer. And since they are only 40 minutes away from me I drove down today and made the swap. While I was there I got a tour of the shop. Man they are going full tilt making cranks. Learned something I did not know, that the billet cranks are made 100% in that shop.
Anyway got that done and came back to start fitting rod bearings.
Let me just say that even watching Brents vid twice and studying my little behind off I was flailing today. But I think I have a handle on it now because of a couple things.
I had forgotten about a certain size bearing and transposed another (stupid) size.
Let’s just say the learning curve got the best of me today but because of that mix up I actually had a light bulb moment and things became clear.
I have to mix sizes to get my target and I have to wait till May for the other size I need. Oh well, penance.
Anyway here’s my numbers. With standard CB743HN’s I have .003 clearance. Shooting for .0025. CB743HN1’s are back ordered. I’ll wait.
And thank you Brent for answering my ignorant questions.
Marc
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Re: CJ love
« Reply #164 on: April 16, 2021, 06:34:34 PM »
I can have CB743HN1's at your door by the end of next week.
Brent Lykins
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turbohunter

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Re: CJ love
« Reply #165 on: April 16, 2021, 07:06:18 PM »
Done
Marc
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Re: CJ love
« Reply #166 on: April 24, 2021, 05:01:28 PM »
Got some time to work on the short block.
Loaded the first two slugs in, then degreed the cam. Everything was right on and events were within half of a degree. I’m calling that good.
Put in four more pistons. Had to leave something to do tomorrow  :)
I’ve ended up using all standards so far and all rod clearances are dead on at .003 or .0029. I’m going to go thank my machine shop. It’s turning over very smoothly.
Since I’ll be building more of my own stuff I’ve been investing in nice tools and loving it.
Reeeeeeeally enjoying learning this stuff.



Marc
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67xr7cat

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Re: CJ love
« Reply #167 on: April 24, 2021, 07:55:52 PM »
If the rods were wrong you need to check the difference in weight.  If is more than 10 grams I would get the crank rebalanced.  Keep in kind you have to use a fixture to determine the big and small end weights.  I'd assume they will weigh less being a shorter rod and some will say just make sure they weigh all the same and don't worry and likely will get away with it, but the correct way is to rebalance if it is off.

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Re: CJ love
« Reply #168 on: April 24, 2021, 08:03:56 PM »
Thought to ask them that.
Did the weights and math while I was down at Scat. Bob weights came out exactly the same. They gave me the thumbs up.
« Last Edit: April 24, 2021, 08:16:36 PM by turbohunter »
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67xr7cat

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Re: CJ love
« Reply #169 on: April 25, 2021, 07:28:32 AM »
Well that is interesting.  ;D

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Re: CJ love
« Reply #170 on: April 25, 2021, 07:42:33 AM »
Anyway here’s my numbers. With standard CB743HN’s I have .003 clearance. Shooting for .0025.
And thank you Brent for answering my ignorant questions.
If you’re following along you may wonder why my target has changed from .0025 to .003. Simple, Brent.
My inexperienced train of thought was to pick a number in the middle of what I thought to be the two ends of the clearance spectrum (.002 and .003). Figuring that would be a sweet spot. Wrong. That doesn’t take into consideration the materials used in the bearing construction. The way I understand it is since I’m using uncoated bearings I need to allow a bit more oil cushion. Also the coated bearing is harder than non coated so tolerances can be tighter.
Again I’m just putting this out to help myself learn and maybe another couple guys that want to try this. Feel free at any time to add or tell me I’m full of crap.
Marc
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turbohunter

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Re: CJ love
« Reply #171 on: April 25, 2021, 07:44:54 AM »
Well that is interesting.  ;D
I thought so too. But I was thinking simply just figuring weight. It actually has to do with reciprocating and rotating weight as you suggest.
« Last Edit: April 25, 2021, 07:48:38 AM by turbohunter »
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blykins

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Re: CJ love
« Reply #172 on: April 25, 2021, 07:49:26 AM »
Anyway here’s my numbers. With standard CB743HN’s I have .003 clearance. Shooting for .0025.
And thank you Brent for answering my ignorant questions.
If you’re following along you may wonder why my target has changed from .0025 to .003. Simple, Brent.
My inexperienced train of thought was to pick a number in the middle of what I thought to be the two ends of the clearance spectrum (.002 and .003). Figuring that would be a sweet spot. Wrong. That doesn’t take into consideration the materials used in the bearing construction. The way I understand it is since I’m using uncoated bearings I need to allow a bit more oil cushion. Also the coated bearing is harder than non coated so tolerances can be tighter.
Again I’m just putting this out to help myself learn and maybe another couple guys that want to try this. Feel free at any time to add or tell me I’m full of crap.

Brent said aim for around .003" on the mains. 

Rods can be a lot tighter since they're smaller.  Remember the .001"/inch rule.  You're working with a 2.200" rod journal.  You can run a .0022-.0025" clearance there for a street engine.
Brent Lykins
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blykins

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Re: CJ love
« Reply #173 on: April 25, 2021, 07:51:00 AM »
Anyway here’s my numbers. With standard CB743HN’s I have .003 clearance. Shooting for .0025. CB743HN1’s are back ordered.

Here's where I thought you were and that's why I had bearings sent to you this past week.
Brent Lykins
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turbohunter

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Re: CJ love
« Reply #174 on: April 25, 2021, 07:52:27 AM »
It’s all good.
I’m learning and it’s costing a little money but I’ll have them for the future.
Marc
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blykins

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Re: CJ love
« Reply #175 on: April 25, 2021, 07:54:50 AM »
It’s all good.
I’m learning and it’s costing a little money but I’ll have them for the future.

FWIW, I wouldn't run .003" rod bearing clearance on a BBC journal street engine.  Your .0025" number was solid.
Brent Lykins
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turbohunter

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Re: CJ love
« Reply #176 on: April 25, 2021, 07:56:44 AM »
Even with uncoated?
Marc
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blykins

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Re: CJ love
« Reply #177 on: April 25, 2021, 07:58:58 AM »
Brent Lykins
Lykins Motorsports
Custom FE Street, Drag Race, Road Race, and Pulling Truck Engines
Custom Roller & Flat Tappet Camshafts
www.lykinsmotorsports.com
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turbohunter

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Re: CJ love
« Reply #178 on: April 25, 2021, 08:00:24 AM »
Marc
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Re: CJ love
« Reply #179 on: April 25, 2021, 08:57:04 AM »
Even with uncoated?

Yep.
Wort  :)

Get it? Worts and all.

If it were a stock FE rod journal, then I’d be somewhere around that .003” point.  The factory rod journal is much larger in diameter than a BBC, and also much narrower, so it does need a little more cushion for the pushin’.  I think that’s what we were discussing in the other thread on the main forum, when one of the members was discussing using a factory crank.
Brent Lykins
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www.customfordcams.com
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turbohunter

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Re: CJ love
« Reply #180 on: April 25, 2021, 09:19:47 AM »
Thanks Brent you’re right.
All part of the learning process. So much info is coming in that I lose the category it belongs in but I’ll get it all figured out.
Gotta remember to use the .001/inch rule first.
So, when the HN1’s get here I’ll rip the slugs out that I have installed, clean ‘em and redo the clearances.
Marc
'61 F100 292Y
'66 Mustang Injected 428
'66 Q code Country Squire wagon


turbohunter

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Re: CJ love
« Reply #181 on: April 25, 2021, 11:27:19 AM »
Got a question for you piston guys.
What is the purpose of the indented land here.

Marc
'61 F100 292Y
'66 Mustang Injected 428
'66 Q code Country Squire wagon


turbohunter

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Re: CJ love
« Reply #182 on: April 25, 2021, 11:34:32 AM »
I just looked it up.
It’s called an accumulator groove and is designed to reduce pressure between the rings to maximize ring seal.
Please feel free to add or subtract from above statement.
Marc
'61 F100 292Y
'66 Mustang Injected 428
'66 Q code Country Squire wagon


gt350hr

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Re: CJ love
« Reply #183 on: April 26, 2021, 02:39:21 PM »
    The accumulator groove came about around 96 or 97 as a result of Nascar development. The concept was two fold. First was to give extra space for any pressure getting by the to ring to go before equalizing the pressure between the rings that would allow "ring flutter" ( loss of top ring seal to the bottom of the groove.) We later improved on this by going to a larger second ring end gap that the top.
   The second part ( and IMHO MORE important) is we were seeing some rubbing in the middle of that land and that could lead to scuffing. By reducing the potential rub area we actually were able to increase the second ring land diameter to use the second land to reduce piston "rock" and loss of ring seal during the directional change at the top of the bore wher it is far more critical than at the bottom of the bore. Due to thermal expansion , we "used to be" as much a s.036 under the bore diameter. With the accumulator groove , we routinely use .030 under and have gone to .026 on aluminum block engines.
    Some companies have different views on the style and width of the groove and others don't use it at all. IMHO it is a good thing and I always recommend it if it isn't standard on the piston you need.

turbohunter

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Re: CJ love
« Reply #184 on: April 26, 2021, 05:58:41 PM »
Thank you Randy.

Well the bearings from Brent got here and I immediately went to work. It was easy to pull all the pistons and install the STD/HN1 mix. Gave me a chance to look over the rings again just to make sure I had no overlapped oil ringage. All was well.
I am amazed at how dead on the bearings are. Of course it’s my inexperience with them but damn, they are all but one dead nuts on. All a solid .0025 with one just waaaay out at .00245 ;D Rotation is nice with no hard spots.
Rotating assembly done!!!
Maybe now I’ll stop second guessing myself. I’m really amazed at the rock solid readings. Quite different from the way this deal started out with the old crappy bore gauge. But it taught me a lesson so I ain’t complaining.



Marc
'61 F100 292Y
'66 Mustang Injected 428
'66 Q code Country Squire wagon


Barry_R

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Re: CJ love
« Reply #185 on: April 26, 2021, 07:19:31 PM »
To expand on Randy's comments...

The big gap and accumulator groove concepts came about as a result of computer modeling at Dana in the early 90s.  They were working on OEM development for emissions and mileage, using a pretty high end computer.  Scott G. worked at Speed-Pro, which was a Dana division prior to being acquired by Federal-Mogul.  He talked them into running that simulation on a NASCAR model and the resulting improvement was verified, and subsequently tried by a few selected teams.  I always try to make sure that Scott (I am certain that Randy knows him) gets credit for bringing this concept to the race community.

chilly460

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Re: CJ love
« Reply #186 on: April 27, 2021, 09:51:05 AM »
Thank you Randy.

Well the bearings from Brent got here and I immediately went to work. It was easy to pull all the pistons and install the STD/HN1 mix. Gave me a chance to look over the rings again just to make sure I had no overlapped oil ringage. All was well.
I am amazed at how dead on the bearings are. Of course it’s my inexperience with them but damn, they are all but one dead nuts on. All a solid .0025 with one just waaaay out at .00245 ;D Rotation is nice with no hard spots.
Rotating assembly done!!!
Maybe now I’ll stop second guessing myself. I’m really amazed at the rock solid readings. Quite different from the way this deal started out with the old crappy bore gauge. But it taught me a lesson so I ain’t complaining.





Ditto, I've been checking clearances with my Mitutoyo bore gauge and it's been MUCH more consistent.  I also found my Starrett 2-3" mic, which I bought used, was slightly bent which was resulting in some goofy readings.  Guess someone tried to use it as a C-clamp.  My backup Harbor Freight mic was fine for establishing journal size, and I just bought a Mitutoyo 2-3" Mic which is also fully repeatable.   Lesson learned, buy the good stuff for this type of work. 

gt350hr

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Re: CJ love
« Reply #187 on: April 27, 2021, 11:09:00 AM »
    Yes Barry , I do know Scott and you are correct ( obviously) that I was approached by a couple of teams to do the grooving for them. We did try several different designs , one of which was like a 7 , one was a radius only, and a variety of angles and depths. Scott's basic concept was the best and what we went with. Scott was also one of the first to "back me up" when I developed ( for Nascar use as it already existed on import 4 bangers) the conical and spherical dishes that went against the "mirror image" dishes they were used to using. He is a very smart man not afraid to think outside the box.  Scott also convinced  this  "set in his ways" guy to open up the second ring end gap for the same reason. Guess what , he was right! We have had conversations after that as well. "I" still learn every day!
   Randy
« Last Edit: April 27, 2021, 11:17:46 AM by gt350hr »

Barry_R

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Re: CJ love
« Reply #188 on: April 27, 2021, 11:35:41 AM »
And you were the guy that talked me into running the spherical/cone shaped dish in my first EMC entry.
We still have a hard time selling that concept to the masses....but it damn sure works

turbohunter

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Re: CJ love
« Reply #189 on: April 27, 2021, 01:04:45 PM »
Love reading this stuff. Thank you both.
While you’re hanging out, I’m curious about the step above the top ring. I’m assuming it’s to allow the compressed gasses a better path on to the top of and behind the top ring for better sealing. My question is why a hard corned step and not an angle?

On edit as I think about it more, as we’ve seen before in matching manifold to head, most of the time the air really doesn’t care if there is a step, it tumbles over and in anyway.
« Last Edit: April 27, 2021, 01:10:15 PM by turbohunter »
Marc
'61 F100 292Y
'66 Mustang Injected 428
'66 Q code Country Squire wagon


gt350hr

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Re: CJ love
« Reply #190 on: April 27, 2021, 04:29:14 PM »
   The "gas distribution groove" is used by several companies to put a slight amount of additional downward pressure on the top ring to keep it seated. It works and we incorporate it in 99.9 % of our pistons as  a couple of people didn't want it.The hard corner distributes the pressure around the top of the ring more evenly.