CVR Electric Water Pump Adapters for the FE

[afret]

Looks good!

How far out is the short outlet from the timing cover?   The 1 1/2" hose in the photo below has one larger end that fits on a 1 3/4" outlet.  It needs to be cut but the straight section before the bend at the end should reach the short inlet.  Do you think it would work if I bevel the outer part of the fuel pump mount?

[jayb]

Probably another dumb question, my original pump has a hose barb coming out the back going to the intake manifold. I am sure you are way ahead of me on this Jay but what is it for?

Not a dumb question, because I'm not sure myself.  I think they call that the thermostat bypass tube, and again I think it's purpose is to allow water to flow in the cooling system when the thermostat is closed.  Those are blocked off on some high performance intakes, and you can run without them; for this pump you would just have to block off the fitting coming out of the intake manifold. 

Maybe somebody else can confirm the purpose of that tube? 

[jayb]

Looks good!

How far out is the short outlet from the timing cover?   The 1 1/2" hose in the photo below has one larger end that fits on a 1 3/4" outlet.  It needs to be cut but the straight section before the bend at the end should reach the short inlet.  Do you think it would work if I bevel the outer part of the fuel pump mount?

The short tube is very close to the timing cover; in fact I had to move the whole pump out 1/8" as described in my post primarily so that I could get the hose to slip on the tube without hitting the timing cover.  But that hose in your picture looks like it might work pretty well; I'd only wonder about the angle of the tube (viewed from the front of the engine) as compared to the angle of the hose in your photo.  Do you have the manufacturer and part number for that hose?  I could pick one up and see how it looks...

[afret]

Here's another shot.  The hose angles upward near where the inlet tube would be.



It's a Dayco 70782.  The Gates equivalent which I think is 20841 is different and isn't even close.

[fe66comet]

Looks Jim Dandy I think you put a lot of thought and effort into it. As far as the finish goes I think bead blast would look excellent and could be easily polished if desired.

[Heo]

Probably another dumb question, my original pump has a hose barb coming out the back going to the intake manifold. I am sure you are way ahead of me on this Jay but what is it for?

Not a dumb question, because I'm not sure myself.  I think they call that the thermostat bypass tube, and again I think it's purpose is to allow water to flow in the cooling system when the thermostat is closed.  Those are blocked off on some high performance intakes, and you can run without them; for this pump you would just have to block off the fitting coming out of the intake manifold. 

Maybe somebody else can confirm the purpose of that tube?

I dont know why they put it there but you get the air
out that otherwise that can gather at the termostat
and prevent it from opening and if the termostat
hung you have atleast some circulation
some cars that dont have some way of bypass
can be wery hard to get the air out of the system
if you drained the coolant and refill it
some times i had to drill a small hole in the termostat

[fe66comet]

I guess I could put a bleeder in one of the holes in the top of the intake. There are two NPT ports above the flange for the t stat. I would guess one is for temp and the other is for the heater hose?

[jayb]

Drilling a small hole (1/8") in the thermostat and then orienting the thermostat so that the hole is at the top is the easy solution.

[fe66comet]

I could do that but the bleeder is a common thing on late model cars as most have the radiator mounted lower than the engine. The stat in my intake is about an inch and a half lower than the heater hose boss so that is my high point.  Not sure what the in tension was for the bypass hole it is machined flat and not threaded. There is also not much material to tap it for a half inch plug so I am thinking a block off plate is in order there.

[mike7570]

Tap and install plug, it doesn't need many threads engaged. I think I only had about a 1/4" or so of threads on mine.

[fe66comet]

Mine has about 3/16.

[390 Cougar Conv]

Why not try a brass freeze plug and lightly stake it in.  Clifford

[fe66comet]

Was thinking about that and maybe some JB weld on the inside where it is not visible.

[390 Cougar Conv]

I repaired a timing cover once with JB Weld and some came off with the heat. Just a thought. Red loctite. high temp silicone just some ideas.  Clifford

[machoneman]

Yes, the OEM FE Ford hose & barbs (intake and water pump) were designed to by-pass the closed thermostat.  This was called out in old FoMoCo and Standard Oil Co. motor books of the time (geesh, showing my age!).  Drilling a 1/16" to 1/8" hole, as mentioned, into the sheetmetal flange of the t-stat's body and blocking the intake/pump holes with pipe plugs will serve the same purpose.   

See the very last entry in this link for 'by pass" and note too that the 292 series and MEL's had the same set-up.

http://www.squarebirds.org/vbulletin/showthread.php?t=10383

Probably another dumb question, my original pump has a hose barb coming out the back going to the intake manifold. I am sure you are way ahead of me on this Jay but what is it for?

Not a dumb question, because I'm not sure myself.  I think they call that the thermostat bypass tube, and again I think it's purpose is to allow water to flow in the cooling system when the thermostat is closed.  Those are blocked off on some high performance intakes, and you can run without them; for this pump you would just have to block off the fitting coming out of the intake manifold. 

Maybe somebody else can confirm the purpose of that tube?