SINister EDition '66 Comet Caliente

[SE2839]

Update to the Comet project is down the page a ways, I probably should have started this as a new thread. This thread had started in 2012 around the upgraded power plant. For 2014 it's all about getting that power to the ground through front & rear suspension upgrades and more tire .

I took a trip up to Michigan last week to sit in on the dyno session of my 445 stroker built by Barry R. I had Barry reuse some of the pieces from my last 390 build which had less than 500 miles on it including a set of C6AE-R heads. The iron heads surely cost me some power as was expected but the investment in the iron heads had already been made as well as the headers and the desire to keep the original look was worth a few ponies. Horse power was consistently between 444 and 448 with a peak of 456@6000 that Barry attributed to technique more than any change made to the engine, torque numbers were in the upper 460's to a high of 476@4200.
I am looking forward to installing this new jewel but while the engine is still out I am taking advantage of the room available to install a disc brake upgrade complete with dual bowl master cylinder and new pre bent lines with OE 1967 distribution block and proportioning valve so more pics to follow. Below is a detailed description of the engine build and the drivetrain behind it, (*) symbol represents those parts which were re purposed from my previous 390 and provided to Barry for use on this engine.

Engine: Prison Break 445 Stroker Built by Barry Rabotnick and Survival Motorsports. West Bloomfield, Mi
Seasoned (.030 Over) 390 Block, Bored & Honed with Torque Plates Installed, Line Honed, Zero Decked
Survival Motorsports Balanced 445ci Stroker Rotating Assembly:
Scat 4.250 inch Stroke Cast Crank
Scat 6.700 inch BBC I Beam Rods with ARP Bolts
Probe Forged 4.080 Diameter 21cc Dished Pistons, 9.8:1 SCR with 72cc Heads
Total Seal Rings 1/16-1/16-3/16 File Fit Moly Rings
Federal Mogul ¾ Grove 270° Race Bearings, Federal Mogul 1445M Cam Bearings
*Competition Cams K33-245-4 Magnum Solid Cam and Lifter Kit:
  *282S Solid Lifter Cam .571 Lift/ 282 Duration/ 110° Lobe Separation/ 104° Centerline
  *835-16 Mechanical Flat Tappet Solid Lifters
  *972-16 Spring Set with Retainers(740-16) and Locks(612-16)
  *2108 Magnum Double Roller Timing Set
*C6AE-R Heads- 2.09/1.65 Cobra Jet Valves, Bowl Blended, Gasket Matched, Bronze guides, Hardened seats, Viton seals
*OE 427 Adjustable Rockers on OE Shafts with Precision Oil Pumps End Supports and Rocker Spacers
*Precision Oil Pumps 3/8 inch Ball & Cup Pushrods
Precision Oil Pumps Blue Printed Melling M-57 High Volume Oil Pump, ARP Hardened Oil Pump Drive
Milodon 7 Quart Front Sump Oil Pan with Pick Up
*Canton Windage Tray with Oil Pan Stud Kit
Fel-Pro Passenger Gaskets w/1020 Head Gasket & Blue Thunder Intake Gasket
Professional Products Harmonic Balancer
*Re manufactured Water Pump- 1965 Casting High Volume/Severe Duty
Blue Thunder 2x4 Medium Riser Intake, Linkage, Fuel Log
Survival Motorsports Custom FE 2x4 Holley Based Quick Fuel 750cfm Race Carburetors
*Re curved OE Distributor with Pertronix Ignitor III Ignition Module
*Pertronix Flame Thrower III Ignition Coil
Ford Powertrain Applications Tri Y Headers
Custom 3 inch Rear Exit Exhaust with 3 inch Magna Flow Mufflers
*Mercury Script Pent Roof Valve Covers
Blue Thunder 2x4 Oval Air Cleaner
 
Drivetrain: Performance Transmissions 500hp Wide Ratio C-6 1st=2.72-1, 2nd=1.54-1, 3rd=1-1
Hughes 35-30 (3000 Stall) Converter
3.89-1 Ford 9 inch

[ScotiaFE]

I think you have an all around solid package.
I doubt you will miss the few extra ponies at the upper end the Ed heads would give you.
You may need a pretty good set of tires on the back and a spare set in the shed. lol
I would put a set of Caltracs on. If you get into a wheel hop situation it could get expensive.

[SE2839]

With a bit of luck I will know by Monday, I have a four day weekend that begins tomorrow and I have gotten a jump on the disc brake conversion before the engine goes in. Traction will be the next hurdle, the plan is to start with frame connectors then look at improving the hook with tires, suspension and maybe a mini tub. Cal Tracs are the likely choice when I get there, in the mean time perhaps I can buy a gross of tires from the Price Club.

[SE2839]

It's Alive!
It was not with out its challenges, the park rod dropped while setting the linkage position so I had a crash course in transmissions 101. Then the oil pressure at 100+ psi cold idle and closer to 140 above 1500 RPM blew the seal on first start up, replacing the seal and sinching a little tighter permitted me to put a 25 mile run on it before another cold start balloned the oil filter and blew the seal for a second time but this was easily fixed by replacing the off the shelf Tuff Gard with one specifically suited to high pressure and that trouble was solved too. This engine has alot of torque and the stockish tires do not stand a chance of transferring the power to the ground, stomping the throttle at a 10-15 mile per hour roll resulted in the car filling with tire smoke and doing the same at 55 still breaks them loose. Makes me feel like a kid again, I love it! Looking forward to this years cruising.

[jayb]

Your oil pressure problem sounds similar to the one I just had on my SOHC.  What pump are you running?  Are you running a high pressure spring, or a shim behind the stock spring, or anything like that?

Glad to see your car out on the road; that thing looks cool!

[SE2839]

The pump is from Doug at Precision Oil Pumps, I just had Barry order a High Volume so I can not say how or what was done to it. When I went to sit in on the dyno session Barry seemed surprised by the high pressure as well. Once it is warmed up the idle pressure is a bit more reasonable at 40-45 while idling at 800 rpm and 80 at 3000 rpm or 55 mph but when it is cold it will wind the gauge all the way around and peg it on the back side of the stop or approximately 150 psi at 2500 rpm. I called Doug and he said that that was not unusual and running a 5w30 would drop it by about 10 psi and switching to a synthetic would see another 5 psi drop. Doug is the one that recommended the Fram HP1 filter and so far no more issues but I do not rev it any higher than what is needed to keep it running until it is good and warm. Ed

[JamesonRacing]

You shouldn't have to mini-tub your beautiful Cyclone to get traction.  My street 1966 Fairlane GT gets great traction with a set of Cal-tracs, an Eaton Tru-trac, and M/T 275-60/15 drag radials on 8" wheels.  I was amazed at the difference that the M/Ts made for street driving.  I made a 525 mile trip last summer to the FCA nationals with them on and they drove fine.

[SE2839]

I like your cars stance and I would prefer not to mini tub, what is your off set? Any rubbing issues? While I probably saw your car at the Nats there were so many and it was so hot that I made the rounds early then would go in and out of the air throughout the day so I can not recall for certain. Living a mere 40 miles away I was there, it was good time that I'd like to do again.

[JamesonRacing]

The wheels have a 4-3/4" backspacing on a 15x8 wheel.   American Racing can make the TTII wheels at custom offsets for a reasonable price.  If I were doing it again, I'd go with a 5" backspacing and fine tune the with a 1/8" wheel spacer if necessary.  I did have to trim the inside back edge of the wheelwell because it rubbed on big bumps, but that's not noticeable unless you get out the calipers.

That was a stinkin' hot day for the nationals, and I couldn't stay for the awards ceremony.  That was my first time having a car there...wish the weather had cooperated a bit more.

[Jim Comet]

I ran 275/60/15 BFG drag radials on the back of my 66 Comet without any trimming. I did get some rubbing initially, so I put in poly rear spring bushings which stopped the majority of rubbing. The only rubbing I got after that was with 4 people in the car going over speed bumps or such. These tires were mounted on Ford Explorer rims. I am not sure what the offset was but most likely 4 1/2 inches. Your car looks awesome.

[482supersnake]

I also had some 275/60-15 BFG's on the back of my Cyclone (I don't have the car anymore) and they are tight. I think the wheels were 15x7 with 4 1/2 backspace.
 

[66FAIRLANE]

My Fairlane had 275/60/15 BFG's and Hankooks on 8.5" Autodrags. They rubbed a lot. Inside and outside. We seem to like our cars a little lower over here though. After 17 years it finally gave me the shits enough to change and after much soul searching, sleepless nights, thinking I may have turned gay etc, I finally fitted 255/60/15. And actually I quite like them. They lowered the back of my car another 1/2" 

[SE2839]

Update, The engine as it was described at the beginning of this thread had an issue with using water which turned out to be a problem with the block and at the same time the solid lifter cam began losing a lobe so a new engine was built up using a roller cam which had then Dyno'd at 468 horse power and some 482 pounds of torque. Since that time I have just enjoyed driving the car, attending the local car show scene and making an occasional 8.34 second tire melting pass at the local 1/8 mile track.
Well after taking a year or so off from making any big changes to the Comet (aka "saving $$") some major improvements are currently in process to increase both the traction at the track in a quest for lower ET's and the overall driveability while on the the street. Warning, this list is long and still growing.

New for 2014!
Gear Vendors under/overdrive
Custom made driveshaft with 1350 U-joints
N C4AW-B 30 nodular case 9 inch third member (9L6) 11/6/1969
 Detroit Locker 31 spline carrier from Bill Elliott's #9 raced once at Talladega in 1987 setting a 212.809 mph standing track record (a small piece of history)
 Richmond 4.11 gearset also from Bill Elliott used for one race at Darlington in 2003
Strange 31 spline axles
Stock 9 inch axle housing narrowed 2.875 inches (1 7/16 per side)
Mini tubbed wheel wells 1 1/2" to the frame
Crites sub frame connectors
Crites spring relocators moved springs inboard 3"
Calvert's split mono leaf springs (+1inch)
Calvert's Caltrac traction bars
Calvert's/Rancho 9000 series drag shocks (rear)
Calvert 90/10 drag shocks (front)
Open Tracker Racing rollerized spring perches (front)
Street or Track adjustable strut rods
Moog RK8121 lower control arms, replaced bushings with Open Tracker Racing roller bearings
Rebuilt original upper control arms possibly doing the Shelby 1" drop
NOS inner & outer tie rods, adjusting sleeves, idler and pitman arms from a store that had closed in the 70's
Carl's Ford Parts 427 type fuel line with canister filter (pump to carb)
Fine Lines 3/8's S/S fuel line (tank to pump)
Auto Krafters 3/8's sending unit
275/50-15 Mickey Thompson E/T Streets (with room in the wells for more)


The car is currently at the chassis shop having the parts from Crites installed, 9" housing narrowed and the wheel wells widened. When it returns home (hopefully) next week the front end parts and over drive unit can begin going in. Any tips or suggestions as this comes together? I have read of several people who have encountered some issues with the Gear Vendors install so I do expect that to be the biggest challenge. I also expect that once completed this car will drive, handle and perform like never before.
 
Come on summer, looking forward to this years events! 

 

[machoneman]

You're going to love those Opentracker roller spring perches as they make a massive improvement to handing and steering effort. 

[SE2839]

TUBS I had run a 255/60-15 BFG tire last year on an 8" Torq Thrust D wheel with 4.5" back space. Despite reading several posts to the contrary this did rub and so I had added shackles as a temporary fix. I would still get some rubbing when cornering, on driveway approaches or with back seat passengers so mini tubs and springs moved inward were the chosen means to regain my stock ride height while sporting an even larger tire and wheel combination. Mini tubbing to the frame rails and moving the springs nets nearly an additional 3" per side while only moving the the wheel well itself inward 1 1/4" or so and is hardly perceptable with the trunk open.
Tires The BFG's while being a nice tire for cruising provided little traction at the strip, the new tires are 1" shorter at 26" (same as stock) but are an additional 2.3" wider at the tread and made of a much better compound for transmitting the power to the pavement. The tire and wheel combo mounted on the newly narrowed housing is just 8/10's of an inch wider overall with an additional 8" of tread than were the 215/70-14s mounted on 14x6 Torq Thrust D's that I had run up until last year.
I have a few pics of where the project stood as of last weekend, everything is still in the mock-up phase at this point but progress is being made. I even tried my hand at tig welding the fillet pass on one of the axle ends which thankfully was covered up with a final pass that looked much nicer.