Author Topic: Garden block test mule  (Read 53084 times)

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fekbmax

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Garden block test mule
« on: November 04, 2015, 08:54:54 PM »
This is going to be my test mule build. My plans changed quite a bit once I acquired an aluminum pond block over the summer that needs some repairs. I won't be able to get started on that build till next summer so in the meantime I decided to build a test mule so I can get my car back out by spring and do some testing. Unfortunately I lost some pictures that I had not backed up on Google or photo bucket when I dropped my last phone down into a 13' deep manhole at work back in July  :-( .  Fortunately most of those pictures were of the block in its condition of being setting in the corner of my shop since 1985. They were pictures mostly of the cleaning process and alot of the prep as far as oil galley mods, tapping and plugging, tapping the freeze out plugs for screw ins, cutting and drilling the block for cross bolt caps, doing the water jacket cleaning and block fill and alot of the pre work before the final machining.  I had hoped to share some of these pictures but there lost and gone forever. It's mostly stuff you have all seen and done before though so nothing to extravagant.  I'll do my best to explain what I did and be it right or wrong or un ordinary it's the way I have been doing things in my little garage shop for years. I'm sure I'll get some feed back, hopefully some good and I'm sure there will be plenty of negative but this is a low buck build and using alot of existing parts that I have from other builds. I chose to go this route for now and invest my hard earned $ in parts for the pond block build once I start on that. As always I'm open to any "good" advice and hope to be helped to steer away from bad . Thanks guys..
 Keith.
CYLINDER BLOCK. All Block prep done in house by KB MAX.

   C6MEA Garden 428 A block. Seasoned 30 years in my dry shop. de- burred, cleaned, pressure
tested, cylinders sonic tested, cut and drilled for program engineering cross bolt main caps, caps cut for main stud full girdle, oil galleys enlarged to 1/2" from oil pump mounting surface to oil filter bypass adapter mounting surface, Oil galley from adapter mounting surface to center oil galley also enlarged to 1/2".  center oil galley enlarged to 7/16", all oil galley plugs tapped and threaded for screw in plugs. Lifter oil galleys completely blocked for use of a solid roller cam. Lifter valley de-burred and end drain back passages cleaned and smoothed, center drain back ports tapped and threaded for lifter valley vents. lifter bores grooved for drain down lubrication. freeze out plugs tapped and threaded for screw in freeze plugs, block drilled and
tapped at rear main for priority main oiling to rear cap. rear cap drilled and tapped for oil line, caps #2, #3, #4, drilled and tapped for oil line loop fittings, left side cross bolt cap bolts enlarged to 1/2" and drilled and tapped for external oil line fittings. Oil galley passages at main bearing registers chamfered and aligned to match bearings. Center thrust bearing cap chamfered at rear and drilled for rear thrust bearing flange oiling. Block cleaned again and water jackets cleaned and etched with metal rescue rust remover before adding "Hard-block" block filler tall fill to 1-1/2" from deck with mains torqued and a torque plate used on each deck. All gasket surfaces cleaned and surfaced. Block  de-burred inside and out. All bolt holes chased and cleaned with bottom tap thread cleaners.
 All above work done in house at KB max Racing.           
   
 The Following  Machine work done by 'Star Machine Works'  (Thanks Mark)

Block had one sleeve liner installed in #6 hole then align bored, cylinders finish bored and honed to 4.140" with torque plate and centered off of main's. Block Sq decked to 10.168 .

 The following final block prep before short block assembly done in house by KB max

Cylinders clearance chamfered for BIG valves, Block washed with industrial grade cleaner and scrub brushes, all oil galleys cleaned with brushes, block pressure washed and rinsed and washed again then air dried. Block mask off and painted with several thin coats of black industrial epoxy then a silver hammer tone mist applied over last wet coat of epoxy. Block dried under heat lamps for 48 hr then un mask and washed one final time then air dried and lubed with PB Blaster. ARP main studs installed along with pan studs. Pioneer head locating dowels installed along with ARP head studs.
 Short block .



« Last Edit: July 25, 2017, 10:02:30 PM by fekbmax »
Keith.  KB MAX Racing.

Nightmist66

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Re: Garden block test mule
« Reply #1 on: November 04, 2015, 09:47:19 PM »
Looks really good Keith!  :)
Jared



66 Fairlane GT 390 - .035" Over 390, Wide Ratio Top Loader, 9" w/spool, 4.86

turbohunter

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Re: Garden block test mule
« Reply #2 on: November 04, 2015, 10:29:03 PM »
Really nice Keith.
I'm in the same place as you but I don't work as fast.
Never heard of the lifter groove deal before.
Does that groove run the entire length of the lifter bore?
How does that compare to bronze bushings?
Marc
'61 F100 292Y
'66 Mustang Injected 428
'66 Q code Country Squire wagon


fekbmax

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Re: Garden block test mule
« Reply #3 on: November 05, 2015, 08:20:56 AM »
The groove does run the length of the bore, helps some with oil drain back and also directs the oil over the lobe at the roller instead of just pouring down through the center drain back holes onto the cam. I have always tapped and plugged those holes (old kuntz trick) and for the last many years just added valley vents for shits and giggles. It doesn't compare at all to bushed lifter bores that  have been done to correct wear and improve oiling for hydraulic type lifters. I'd never make such grooves in any hi mileage street type engine and never full vertical grooves in any hydraulic. 
Keith.  KB MAX Racing.

jayb

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Re: Garden block test mule
« Reply #4 on: November 05, 2015, 10:08:19 AM »
Keith, thanks for the detailed look at the block prep.  I was curious about the nylon washers on the cross bolts; don't you think that would allow some movement in the caps?  My understanding is that you want those caps rigid.  Also, since the block has the crossbolted caps installed, why did you feel the need to install a girdle?

Also, how big are you planning to go on the valves?
Jay Brown
- 1969 Mach 1, Drag Week 2005 Winner NA/BB, 511" FE (10.60s @ 129); Drag Week 2007 Runner-Up PA/BB, 490" Supercharged FE (9.35 @ 151)
- 1964 Ford Galaxie, Drag Week 2009 Winner Modified NA (9.50s @ 143), 585" SOHC
- 1969 Shelby Clone, Drag Week 2015 Winner Modified NA (Average 8.98 @ 149), 585" SOHC

   

machoneman

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Re: Garden block test mule
« Reply #5 on: November 05, 2015, 10:33:01 AM »
No-no on those nylon washers for sure! The lifter bores are usually grooved for some of todays' really hi-tech ($$$) roller lifters as locators. Will you use them?

Some background from another site:

This technique is used today by the high-end roller lifters from Jesel . They have a really cool "keyway" lifter that uses a bronze lifter bore liner - usually with a .937 body for Nascar. The cool thing is the bronze liners are typically 1.0625 OD. So now you have me thinking . . . how about boring out the lifter bores of a flathead block a 1/16, using these press in bronze bushings and then running their roller lifters! You'd have to rework the lifters to have an adjustable top . . . or maybe just buy and overhead setup and run pushrods!

http://www.jesel.com/valvetrain/index.php/lifters/keyway

Anyway, go to E-Bay and do a search on Jesel Keyway lifters . . . you'll see what I mean. The damn things cost about $2000 new, but you can find them used from Nascar teams for $200 - 300 a set. Probably one of the best lifters in the business!
« Last Edit: November 05, 2015, 10:38:26 AM by machoneman »
Bob Maag

fekbmax

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Re: Garden block test mule
« Reply #6 on: November 05, 2015, 10:38:35 AM »
Good point on the washers, the outside block skirt is surfaced for just hardened washers so that's what I'll use. I have never used the nylon washers before and was over thinking the sealing issue. Washers ditched and back to just a tiny dab of rtv around the shank just before setting the the head, being careful of course to not get on the threads and then wiping skirt/washer surfaces clean before being torqued  ? .
2 reason's on the stud girdle,  1- it's a garden block, no extra Web and 2- the girdle has been hanging on the wall for a while now and I didn't see it hurting anything by using it. ??
Thanks for bringing it up.
Keith.  KB MAX Racing.

fekbmax

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Re: Garden block test mule
« Reply #7 on: November 05, 2015, 10:44:10 AM »
.
« Last Edit: May 23, 2016, 02:49:55 PM by fekbmax »
Keith.  KB MAX Racing.

fekbmax

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Re: Garden block test mule
« Reply #8 on: November 05, 2015, 02:41:08 PM »
Rod, main and cam bearings arrived today. Wife let me know they all made it there. Now if I can get outa working this weekend lol..
« Last Edit: March 04, 2018, 07:51:25 PM by fekbmax »
Keith.  KB MAX Racing.

fekbmax

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Re: Garden block test mule
« Reply #9 on: November 05, 2015, 07:41:35 PM »
.
« Last Edit: December 15, 2016, 10:32:49 PM by fekbmax »
Keith.  KB MAX Racing.

turbohunter

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Re: Garden block test mule
« Reply #10 on: November 06, 2015, 11:47:14 AM »
I'm in class every day ;D
Marc
'61 F100 292Y
'66 Mustang Injected 428
'66 Q code Country Squire wagon


jayb

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Re: Garden block test mule
« Reply #11 on: November 06, 2015, 11:50:52 AM »
First thing I did when I got home was rid those nylon washers.   :-[  .  Right off the bat I'm sent to the back of the class. Sorry guys...   :-\

LOL!  At least you didn't run critical wiring between the runners of your sheet metal intake.  I know one idiot who did that... :-X
Jay Brown
- 1969 Mach 1, Drag Week 2005 Winner NA/BB, 511" FE (10.60s @ 129); Drag Week 2007 Runner-Up PA/BB, 490" Supercharged FE (9.35 @ 151)
- 1964 Ford Galaxie, Drag Week 2009 Winner Modified NA (9.50s @ 143), 585" SOHC
- 1969 Shelby Clone, Drag Week 2015 Winner Modified NA (Average 8.98 @ 149), 585" SOHC

   

fastback 427

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Re: Garden block test mule
« Reply #12 on: November 06, 2015, 02:48:29 PM »
That nylon washer thing is way way at the bottom of the list ;D  Maybe we should start a new thread......
Jaime
67 fastback 427 center oiler 428 crank Dove aluminum
top end toploader
67 fairlane gta cross bolted 12:1 390 Dove aluminum top end c6 3600 stall
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76 f350 dually 390 mirror 105 4bbl 4spd
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KMcCullah

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Re: Garden block test mule
« Reply #13 on: November 06, 2015, 07:09:14 PM »
Looks like nice machine work. Can you post a sonic map for us to gander at? What was the reason for one sleeve?
Kevin McCullah


fekbmax

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Re: Garden block test mule
« Reply #14 on: November 06, 2015, 08:37:31 PM »
Sorry, should have included sheet. This was after final bore and taken 1" down the cylinder from deck keeping clear of the block fill to get a as close to accurate measurement as possible.



#6 cylinder had a small gray shadow that took more than the .010 bore to clean up. All the other cylinders cleaned up easy with the .010 so we chose to bore the cylinder till the porous gray shadow aera cleared up then maged it again to be sure and then finish bored it with a step for a cylinder liner and then bored and honed to the finished cylinder bore.  I was happy with the liner and think he did a good job of installing it.
« Last Edit: January 28, 2018, 09:30:55 PM by fekbmax »
Keith.  KB MAX Racing.