Author Topic: Garden block test mule (Read 53088 times)

fekbmax · « **on:** November 04, 2015, 08:54:54 PM »

This is going to be my test mule build. My plans changed quite a bit once I acquired an aluminum pond block over the summer that needs some repairs. I won't be able to get started on that build till next summer so in the meantime I decided to build a test mule so I can get my car back out by spring and do some testing. Unfortunately I lost some pictures that I had not backed up on Google or photo bucket when I dropped my last phone down into a 13' deep manhole at work back in July :-( . Fortunately most of those pictures were of the block in its condition of being setting in the corner of my shop since 1985. They were pictures mostly of the cleaning process and alot of the prep as far as oil galley mods, tapping and plugging, tapping the freeze out plugs for screw ins, cutting and drilling the block for cross bolt caps, doing the water jacket cleaning and block fill and alot of the pre work before the final machining. I had hoped to share some of these pictures but there lost and gone forever. It's mostly stuff you have all seen and done before though so nothing to extravagant. I'll do my best to explain what I did and be it right or wrong or un ordinary it's the way I have been doing things in my little garage shop for years. I'm sure I'll get some feed back, hopefully some good and I'm sure there will be plenty of negative but this is a low buck build and using alot of existing parts that I have from other builds. I chose to go this route for now and invest my hard earned $ in parts for the pond block build once I start on that. As always I'm open to any "good" advice and hope to be helped to steer away from bad . Thanks guys..
Keith.
CYLINDER BLOCK. All Block prep done in house by KB MAX.

C6MEA Garden 428 A block. Seasoned 30 years in my dry shop. de- burred, cleaned, pressure
tested, cylinders sonic tested, cut and drilled for program engineering cross bolt main caps, caps cut for main stud full girdle, oil galleys enlarged to 1/2" from oil pump mounting surface to oil filter bypass adapter mounting surface, Oil galley from adapter mounting surface to center oil galley also enlarged to 1/2". center oil galley enlarged to 7/16", all oil galley plugs tapped and threaded for screw in plugs. Lifter oil galleys completely blocked for use of a solid roller cam. Lifter valley de-burred and end drain back passages cleaned and smoothed, center drain back ports tapped and threaded for lifter valley vents. lifter bores grooved for drain down lubrication. freeze out plugs tapped and threaded for screw in freeze plugs, block drilled and
tapped at rear main for priority main oiling to rear cap. rear cap drilled and tapped for oil line, caps #2, #3, #4, drilled and tapped for oil line loop fittings, left side cross bolt cap bolts enlarged to 1/2" and drilled and tapped for external oil line fittings. Oil galley passages at main bearing registers chamfered and aligned to match bearings. Center thrust bearing cap chamfered at rear and drilled for rear thrust bearing flange oiling. Block cleaned again and water jackets cleaned and etched with metal rescue rust remover before adding "Hard-block" block filler tall fill to 1-1/2" from deck with mains torqued and a torque plate used on each deck. All gasket surfaces cleaned and surfaced. Block de-burred inside and out. All bolt holes chased and cleaned with bottom tap thread cleaners.
All above work done in house at KB max Racing.

The Following Machine work done by 'Star Machine Works' (Thanks Mark)

Block had one sleeve liner installed in #6 hole then align bored, cylinders finish bored and honed to 4.140" with torque plate and centered off of main's. Block Sq decked to 10.168 .

The following final block prep before short block assembly done in house by KB max

Cylinders clearance chamfered for BIG valves, Block washed with industrial grade cleaner and scrub brushes, all oil galleys cleaned with brushes, block pressure washed and rinsed and washed again then air dried. Block mask off and painted with several thin coats of black industrial epoxy then a silver hammer tone mist applied over last wet coat of epoxy. Block dried under heat lamps for 48 hr then un mask and washed one final time then air dried and lubed with PB Blaster. ARP main studs installed along with pan studs. Pioneer head locating dowels installed along with ARP head studs.
Short block .

Nightmist66 · « **Reply #1 on:** November 04, 2015, 09:47:19 PM »

Looks really good Keith!

turbohunter · « **Reply #2 on:** November 04, 2015, 10:29:03 PM »

Really nice Keith.
I'm in the same place as you but I don't work as fast.
Never heard of the lifter groove deal before.
Does that groove run the entire length of the lifter bore?
How does that compare to bronze bushings?

fekbmax · « **Reply #3 on:** November 05, 2015, 08:20:56 AM »

The groove does run the length of the bore, helps some with oil drain back and also directs the oil over the lobe at the roller instead of just pouring down through the center drain back holes onto the cam. I have always tapped and plugged those holes (old kuntz trick) and for the last many years just added valley vents for shits and giggles. It doesn't compare at all to bushed lifter bores that have been done to correct wear and improve oiling for hydraulic type lifters. I'd never make such grooves in any hi mileage street type engine and never full vertical grooves in any hydraulic.

jayb · « **Reply #4 on:** November 05, 2015, 10:08:19 AM »

Keith, thanks for the detailed look at the block prep. I was curious about the nylon washers on the cross bolts; don't you think that would allow some movement in the caps? My understanding is that you want those caps rigid. Also, since the block has the crossbolted caps installed, why did you feel the need to install a girdle?

Also, how big are you planning to go on the valves?

machoneman · « **Reply #5 on:** November 05, 2015, 10:33:01 AM »

No-no on those nylon washers for sure! The lifter bores are usually grooved for some of todays' really hi-tech ($$$) roller lifters as locators. Will you use them?

Some background from another site:

This technique is used today by the high-end roller lifters from Jesel . They have a really cool "keyway" lifter that uses a bronze lifter bore liner - usually with a .937 body for Nascar. The cool thing is the bronze liners are typically 1.0625 OD. So now you have me thinking . . . how about boring out the lifter bores of a flathead block a 1/16, using these press in bronze bushings and then running their roller lifters! You'd have to rework the lifters to have an adjustable top . . . or maybe just buy and overhead setup and run pushrods!

http://www.jesel.com/valvetrain/index.php/lifters/keyway

Anyway, go to E-Bay and do a search on Jesel Keyway lifters . . . you'll see what I mean. The damn things cost about $2000 new, but you can find them used from Nascar teams for $200 - 300 a set. Probably one of the best lifters in the business!

fekbmax · « **Reply #6 on:** November 05, 2015, 10:38:35 AM »

Good point on the washers, the outside block skirt is surfaced for just hardened washers so that's what I'll use. I have never used the nylon washers before and was over thinking the sealing issue. Washers ditched and back to just a tiny dab of rtv around the shank just before setting the the head, being careful of course to not get on the threads and then wiping skirt/washer surfaces clean before being torqued ? .
2 reason's on the stud girdle, 1- it's a garden block, no extra Web and 2- the girdle has been hanging on the wall for a while now and I didn't see it hurting anything by using it. ??
Thanks for bringing it up.

fekbmax · « **Reply #7 on:** November 05, 2015, 10:44:10 AM »

fekbmax · « **Reply #8 on:** November 05, 2015, 02:41:08 PM »

Rod, main and cam bearings arrived today. Wife let me know they all made it there. Now if I can get outa working this weekend lol..

fekbmax · « **Reply #9 on:** November 05, 2015, 07:41:35 PM »

turbohunter · « **Reply #10 on:** November 06, 2015, 11:47:14 AM »

I'm in class every day

jayb · « **Reply #11 on:** November 06, 2015, 11:50:52 AM »

Quote from: fekbmax on November 05, 2015, 07:41:35 PM

First thing I did when I got home was rid those nylon washers. . Right off the bat I'm sent to the back of the class. Sorry guys... $:-\$

LOL! At least you didn't run critical wiring between the runners of your sheet metal intake. I know one idiot who did that...

fastback 427 · « **Reply #12 on:** November 06, 2015, 02:48:29 PM »

That nylon washer thing is way way at the bottom of the list

Maybe we should start a new thread......

KMcCullah · « **Reply #13 on:** November 06, 2015, 07:09:14 PM »

Looks like nice machine work. Can you post a sonic map for us to gander at? What was the reason for one sleeve?

fekbmax · « **Reply #14 on:** November 06, 2015, 08:37:31 PM »

Sorry, should have included sheet. This was after final bore and taken 1" down the cylinder from deck keeping clear of the block fill to get a as close to accurate measurement as possible.

#6 cylinder had a small gray shadow that took more than the .010 bore to clean up. All the other cylinders cleaned up easy with the .010 so we chose to bore the cylinder till the porous gray shadow aera cleared up then maged it again to be sure and then finish bored it with a step for a cylinder liner and then bored and honed to the finished cylinder bore. I was happy with the liner and think he did a good job of installing it.

fekbmax · « **Reply #15 on:** December 30, 2015, 08:36:41 PM »

It's been a busy holiday so far and I have finally gotten to a point that I could get a little time to my self. I kinda cheated some today and took off a half day to get a jump start on my long 4 day weekend. I have been wanting to get some time to start putting together the short block. This afternoon was spent checking my main bearing clearances. It's a long drawn out process as we all know, nothing to terribly hard just alot of installing main caps and pulling them back off repeatedly as I'm moving bearings around to get them in place for acceptable clearance. Once I was happy after a few hours of swapping bearings around I was able to break them back down and clean them up by hand with some 1800 (white) scuff pads. It was close to time for me to go get the wife so I cleaned up and re bagged the block and I'm hoping that tomorrow I can Finally get started assembling the bottom end. I'm keeping my fingers crossed and hoping I have some time to spend on it over the weekend, I actually took a few vacation days even though we are off for the holidays because that way I'm able to call the answering service at 6am and take myself off call till Monday morning.
Long story short, I'm anxious to get started..

Checking main bearing clearances, time consuming but was very happy with the outcome, just think, still have 8 rods to go.

Bottom end parts assembly table, everything ready to go. No survival motorsports adjustable timing set or the used DannyBee I was suppose to get but the guys keeps putting me off and even tried to raise the price, not cool. I'll probably stick it together with the roll master for now till something comes available...

I did manage to knock the cam bearings in .

fekbmax · « **Reply #16 on:** January 23, 2016, 10:19:36 PM »

10 year old Scat 9000 series crankshaft. Only 10 - 12 1/8th mile passes. 4.125 stroke. Balanced, polished, ready to go.

fekbmax · « **Reply #17 on:** January 23, 2016, 10:25:12 PM »

Camshaft freshly repaired by Delta camshafts. I was very pleased with the work, quick turn around and charge for repairs n the damaged lobe. They also checked for straightness and polished the camshaft after matching the lobes up making the camshaft consistent.

fekbmax · « **Reply #18 on:** January 24, 2016, 11:42:26 AM »

piston and rod combo assembled and ready for rings. again most all these parts are "shelf or catalog type parts ( except for the Venolia custom pistons of-course) that i have had and all have very little use on them. the rings are file fit JE's

fekbmax · « **Reply #19 on:** January 24, 2016, 11:57:34 AM »

finally bearing clearances , crankshaft end play, all adjusted and crankshaft assembled into block. smooth as butter,

, im liking it. main stud girdle clearance'd and installed.

turbohunter · « **Reply #20 on:** January 24, 2016, 12:42:41 PM »

Sexy

machoneman · « **Reply #21 on:** January 24, 2016, 12:44:25 PM »

Using a tapered solid aluminum ring compressor? After years of using the rachet-type universal (Lisle Tools) compressor, bought a bore-sized solid compressor and will never go back! Talk about easy-peasy.

fekbmax · « **Reply #22 on:** January 24, 2016, 01:14:58 PM »

adjustable aluminum tapered ring compressor, LOL. still pretty easy-peasy...

fekbmax · « **Reply #23 on:** January 24, 2016, 03:07:37 PM »

after spending most of the night last night getting my rod bearing clearances all set and sizing my rings to each cylinder , today i spent most of my time getting the pistons in the holes and getting a little closer to buttoning up the bottom end. its a slow progress but im always on 24 hour call and with all the bad weather this weekend i have been called out alot on several heat and plumbing calls. ill get there though.

fekbmax · « **Reply #24 on:** January 24, 2016, 03:28:50 PM »

Only a slight bit of clearancing to rod bolts needed to clear the bottom of cylinders.

KMcCullah · « **Reply #25 on:** January 24, 2016, 07:38:48 PM »

Looks good Keith. Tons of time in oiling mods. I'm just guessing here, your gonna connect the #4 hydraulic fittings a with a tube/hose?

fekbmax · « **Reply #26 on:** January 24, 2016, 07:50:00 PM »

Braided hose from #4 looping around through rear block skirt and catching rear main.

Nightmist66 · « **Reply #27 on:** January 24, 2016, 10:15:52 PM »

Looking great Keith!

Did you make the main girdle yourself, or was it one of the Concept Design Engineer pieces? I like the oil mods too.

Quote from: fekbmax on January 24, 2016, 01:14:58 PM

adjustable aluminum tapered ring compressor, LOL. still pretty easy-peasy...

We just recently bought one and I don't care to think about ever using the old style compressor again! Works like a charm.

fekbmax · « **Reply #28 on:** January 25, 2016, 07:00:22 AM »

It's actually one of Tim's girdle's that has been hanging up on the wall for a while. I used it at first for a pattern and made two from it for other engine's . I did make me a master pattern from this one out of a 3/32 piece of aluminum for future use.

fekbmax · « **Reply #29 on:** January 25, 2016, 08:17:33 AM »

I really suck at taking pcts while I'm trying to do stuff and then wish I would have. Most of this stuff is all basic engine assembly though such as sizing rings and fitting bearings, all things that most of you guys have done countless times. It's funny how it gets lost on people just how much time it takes to do seemingly the simplest things. I have a friend from work who has done a few re builds himself for a work truck or his 4x4 that stops by every now and then when I'm in the shop working. He's always asking me why its taking me so long to get the crank in or why it was in one day and back out the next, and as much as you try and explain things it seems many don't understand just how much work it is to properly assemble a performance engine.. So many checks, test, clearances to be set and constantly cleaning everything. I spent all weekend fitting rod bearings and rings and then just getting the piston's in the holes. Late yesterday while listening to the games I did take the time to get my oiling system fittings installed.

ScotiaFE · « **Reply #30 on:** January 25, 2016, 10:21:20 AM »

Quote from: fekbmax on January 25, 2016, 08:17:33 AM

As you can see from the picture's below the bargain store nipple has alot of taper on the threads and this makes it much thinner so its very easy to stress it by over tightening it and makes it more prone to break or splitting under high vibration .. JMO.

Are they not two different threads?
The one on the left looks like a NPT and looks pretty close to spec.
I would have to measure to be sure.
The one on the right appears to be a straight thread and is a completely different thread than a taper thread.

fekbmax · « **Reply #31 on:** January 25, 2016, 12:00:25 PM »

Both NPT .
Or I should say the one is loose binned and labeled as 1/8" Npt. The other individualy packaged and marked as 1/8" npt. 1/8" npt die screws right down on both. The thin wall (imo) came from hardware store. The better one (imo) came from Southern plumbing supply.

ScotiaFE · « **Reply #32 on:** January 25, 2016, 12:56:52 PM »

Judging from the photo the one on the left is a cut thread and the one on the right is a rolled thread.
The one on the left is not necessarily a bad or cheap fitting. It was made for low pressure water in a house type thing.
The one on the right was made with a schedule 80 or there about pipe and made for higher pressures such as hydraulic systems.
It would interesting to know the angle of the one on the right.
Straight pipe threads will engage taper pipe threads.

The taper angle of a NPT is 1* 47' 24'' and is noticeable to the eye when you look at it.

fekbmax · « **Reply #33 on:** January 25, 2016, 01:26:29 PM »

It's a uni-thread. LoL.

You-need It to fit, cinch down on it.
Worked for me, I'm happy with it.

ScotiaFE · « **Reply #34 on:** January 25, 2016, 01:45:09 PM »

fekbmax · « **Reply #35 on:** January 25, 2016, 01:50:22 PM »

You been in my shop at work, ? LoL. Got one of those hanging on the door, old and faded and coffee stained.
Yours is cooler though with the FE info at the bottom..

Nightmist66 · « **Reply #36 on:** January 25, 2016, 01:57:20 PM »

Small world, we have a few copies of that chart w/out the FE info. also.

fekbmax · « **Reply #37 on:** March 27, 2016, 08:26:24 PM »

i managed to get the bottom end buttoned up. modified windage tray. P.O.P. oil pump, big tube rear sump pickup, modified full sump truck pan installed.

fekbmax · « **Reply #38 on:** March 27, 2016, 10:22:13 PM »

Next I got started on my home made / modified 351c to FE belt drive system. My stuff looks very home made, shade tree type stuff cause I use mostly all hand and basic electric tools. Infact angle grinders, drills, hack saws, files, and a electric die grinder is about all I used to fab this up besides a few small task on my 3 in 1 and useng a tig welder to weld it up.
I started off with a Cleveland belt drive that I got on the cheap.
I knew the Cleveland and FE had the same crank to cam centerline so it stood to reason the gears, tensioner, and belt would all work.
t made a very crude pattern of the plate I would need to make and transferred it over to a piece of 3/8" thick scrap aluminum plate. It took some finagling to get around some of the holes already drilled in the plate but was able to get it laid out.

Next I hacked out the center with an angle grinder and shaped it up some with a burr and some sanding drums. Didn't spent alot of time trying to make it look perfect because once the outer plate is added it woudnt be seen .

fekbmax · « **Reply #39 on:** March 27, 2016, 10:29:15 PM »

Next I bolted up the plate then over laid the outer plate with the seals being sure to line and center them up in the propper location before putting a few small tacks to hold it in place.

Next I tacked a piece of the same scrap in place for the oil an rail . I desided to wait till everything was welded up before drilling the oil pan rail holes and shaping the rail. Next it was all clamped down tight to a steel welding table and the final tig welding was finished up. Once the Finnish welding was done I again mounted it up and marked the pan rail bolt holes and scribe the final shape then removed it and drilled the holes and cut and shaped it to final shape.

fekbmax · « **Reply #40 on:** March 27, 2016, 10:36:26 PM »

Next I hit it with a few coat of epoxy crinkle coat, same one of stuff I used on the block then baked it a while. Then i re- installed the seals and mounted up the adapter plate again and took my measurements and made the adjustments in getting the gears lined up properly.

fekbmax · « **Reply #41 on:** March 27, 2016, 10:39:28 PM »

I had to take 0.230" off the back of the cam hub where it meets the face of the cam then I used a old crank sprocket and cut the teeth off it then cut it down making a 0.320" spacer to go on the crank before the crank gear.

fekbmax · « **Reply #42 on:** March 27, 2016, 10:48:30 PM »

, I was very happy with how it turned out. I have about $450.00 invested in the setup, not including my labor of course but that's the one thing I can afford. I will be replacing the lower seal because I slightly damaged it taking it out and its a easy swap. Also I'll be replacing the belt with a good quality American made piece as well. Other wise I'm happy with it to this point.

It is what it is.

fekbmax · « **Reply #43 on:** March 28, 2016, 07:59:23 PM »

Sizing up the FE power adapter. Both my intakes have previously been port matched to each other for use on the old PSE adapter. The intake side of the FE power adapter is pretty close considering the work done to the intakes. On the head side though there will be some considerable amount of work to be done o match the Kuntz CNC heads, especially on cylinders #-1,2,7,8 .

FirstEliminator · « **Reply #44 on:** March 28, 2016, 09:11:13 PM »

Is all the oil plumbing for dry sump oiling?

WConley · « **Reply #45 on:** March 28, 2016, 11:52:47 PM »

I was wondering about those cap oil feeds myself. You should know that at high rpm and load, the oil film pressure can easily exceed 5,000 psi at the bottom area of the cap!

Unless your oil pump is pushing over 5,000 psi, you're creating an oil drain there. Yes, it will flow backwards out those braided hoses, reducing your effective bearing area.

Additional oil feeds at the side or top of the bearing do not see anywhere near those pressures, so they can be of some use. I imagine you won't hurt anything with your setup, but you'll never see that type of oil feed on a maximum effort race engine.

fekbmax · « **Reply #46 on:** March 29, 2016, 03:42:51 AM »

Holly hell, 5000 psi ? Of oil pressure created at the lower half of the main ? And even 800 - 900 psi at the lowest pressure point. Good thing there's pressure valves in them there pumps. Dam, I Can't believe all my fittings, lines, and oil pump haven't completely exploded in the past with that much back pressure. Idk, I have been doing this modification to my 7000rpm race engines since the 90's with good success. Very good crank and bearing life and wear characteristics. I think I'll give it another go.

Bolted to Floor · « **Reply #47 on:** March 29, 2016, 11:51:06 AM »

Pretty impressive fab skills you got there for adapting the belt drive. I really like the rubber bands your using to hold the valves in place. Don't know that I would have thought of that.

WConley · « **Reply #48 on:** March 29, 2016, 12:32:58 PM »

Quote from: fekbmax on March 29, 2016, 03:42:51 AM

Holly hell, 5000 psi ? Of oil pressure created at the lower half of the main ? Dam, I Can't believe all my fittings, lines, and oil pump haven't completely exploded in the past with that much back pressure. Idk, I have been doing this modification to my 7000rpm race engines since the 90's with good success. Very good crank and bearing life and wear characteristics. I think I'll give it another go.

The pressure in your braided lines is only able to reach the max pressure that your oil pump bypass allows in the rest of the system. You're just pumping a reasonably small amount of main bearing oil backwards into the point where the braided side-oiling line is tapped into the oil gallery.

If you're bored one day, just disconnect that side-oiling braided line from the gallery and plug the end. Better yet, put a pressure gauge on it. I think you'll be very surprised when it does indeed blow up.

fekbmax · « **Reply #49 on:** March 29, 2016, 03:56:22 PM »

Interesting, I'll make that test at some point. I have always ran an in line guage just before the oil log on the Sid of the block and it has always pretty much mirrored my main oil guage. I'll for sure make the test you suggest though once I get to that point and let it be known what i Find. For now though I'm not going to abandon it because I have been running this type set up for over 20 years with no issues at all with it. I know it's been done before on everything from 4 cylinder tuner cars to as far back as blown slingshots back in the 60's. I for sure am not the first to do something like this. PSE even made a type of external oiler kit at one point although I have only seen pieces and never seen one installed.
Also I'm a bit confused because acording to your graph even at 90* crank angle there's still roughly 800 - 900 psi of load which is well above the pressure relief in the pump as well so acording to this wouldn't that effectively cause the oil to be forced back out the main or top oil galley ? Wouldn't this effectively run the bearing dry ?

WConley · « **Reply #50 on:** March 29, 2016, 07:35:45 PM »

I'm not ragging on what you are doing Keith. It's working for you so don't fix it if it ain't broke! I just wanted to point out to other folks that you need to be aware of this hydrodynamic oil film pressure when playing with the oil feeds.

The key for adding additional oil feeds is the location on the bearing journal. All of those applications you mention put the oil in at the split line or higher. This little chart of oil film pressure tells the story:

The pressure rapidly builds on the bottom half of the bearing (cap-side) to thousands of psi. Up top there's very little of that hydrodynamic pressure, so more oil can be introduced easily. The biggest benefit of additional oil is cooling under high load. The flow physically carries away the heat.

fekbmax · « **Reply #51 on:** March 29, 2016, 07:37:59 PM »

Believe me, I apresheate any and all information shared, I'm greatful. I'm just a low buck back yard builder lost in the distant past with little knolage but lots of experience if that makes since. If I'm wasting my time with something it.would be a good thing to know, although I have went to far to turn back on this build so far.
Also I'm a bit confused because acording to your graph even at 90* crank angle there's still roughly 700psi of load which is well above the pressure relief in the pump as well so acording to this wouldn't that effectively cause the oil to be forced back out the main or top oil galley ? Wouldn't this effectively run the bearing dry ?

WConley · « **Reply #52 on:** March 29, 2016, 09:37:31 PM »

Hi Keith -

That graph I posted above is for a pressure sensor at the bottom of the cap as the crank rolls around through all four strokes. If you take the pressure near the top of the bearing, those pressures will be very small. That's why the typical factory oil feed is up there...

Notice the spike just after 360 degrees - That's the firing stroke starting to build combustion pressure.

fekbmax · « **Reply #53 on:** April 18, 2016, 07:49:01 AM »

Finally all done with port matching the adapter to the Cleveland 4v (massaged ports) Tunnel FAB and Funnel Web intakes i have. The ports turned out nicely on the intake side.

Also got the head side all done and matched up nicely to the Kuntz CNC intake ports. I'm concerned a bit about how much pinch there is after working around the pushrod passages. Especially #2,#3,#6,#7. I'm wondering how much or how badly this is going to effect things.

jayb · « **Reply #54 on:** April 18, 2016, 09:10:30 AM »

The pinch will definitely affect your airflow. The only way around that is to run offset rockers, and move the pushrod holes. I know of at least one guy who plugged the pushrod holes and redrilled them outboard when he switched to offset rockers. I also think you could fill the holes with an epoxy and re-bore them. FYI I have a whole bunch of programs to move the pushrod holes outboard from the port, exhausts as much as 0.100" and intakes as much as 0.250". If you decide to go that route, Keith, let me know, I'd be happy to rebore the pushrod holes for you - Jay

fekbmax · « **Reply #55 on:** April 18, 2016, 09:32:10 AM »

I have for sure been thinking hard about just that. I will for sure do it once it goes over onto the pond block and I go to the TnD race setup. Problem is I'm a good ways out from even getting a good start on that project. I have done some looking although not alot but does anyone make offset rockers for the regular single shaft type system? If so I'd like to get the info because I'd like to be able to make the mods to the adapter now if offset shaft rockers are available. Should offset lifters be used as well if I try and take as much pinch out as possible ?

jayb · « **Reply #56 on:** April 18, 2016, 01:08:13 PM »

I guess I'm not sure if anyone makes offset rockers for a normal FE shaft system; maybe Dove or Harlan Sharp? I've always just gone with the T&Ds. On the lifters, offsets of 0.188" seem fairly common, and that makes the pushrod angle less if you run one of the 0.250" offset rockers on the intake. I run offset lifters in my high riser engine. Not sure what that does, if anything, to longevity of the lifters, but it does give a little more room for the port.

fekbmax · « **Reply #57 on:** April 18, 2016, 01:37:32 PM »

Jay, (and others)
I may be crazy but ::
I think I have solved my offset rocker issue. I been messing around this morning and experimenting some. I was really wanting to use my erson rocker shaft assembly because I have made alot of mods to it so it will have 7 mounting points, (2 end head bolts and the center head bolt). What I came up with is some jessel rockers. A roundy round engine builder friend of mine litteraly has boxes full of that stuff. I found some 178 ratio rockers that where straight, .200 offset both left and right hand, .300 offset both left and right and some as much as .500 offer left and right. I'm sure the .500 is to much but the .200 and .300 are very close to your #'s. Ofcourse the shafts are smaller than the erson shaft but I figure I can press the bearings out and bush the rockers to the erson shaft size then re drill the oil holes for the roller and pushrod ends. Use the adjusters from my erson' s and be good to go. I fig its worth a shot, besides I like to experiment . unless this sounds like a terrble idea I think this is the way to go. He also has a bunch of offset solid roller lifters as well. I didn't sort through them much yet as I probably would just get new ones instead. If this doesn't sound to hacky then I'd be interested in having you re position the pushrod passages once I can mock things up and see just how far I need to go and if both the intake and exhaust need done. How much is the 178 verse's the 176 ratio gonna effect me. ? I pressed the bearings out and stuck a make shift bushing In one of the jessels and slid it on the shaft against the erson. The tips, and pushrod end line up almost perfectly looking at it with a forgiving eye. Ofcourse more checking and measuring needs to be done but it was a quicky test as like I said I was supose to be working lol. Thanks for any input.

Also Jay, did you say once that you had elongated sleeves for the pushrod tubes ? If so would they fit in the re drilled passages so there would be something there to back up the epoxy ?

jayb · « **Reply #58 on:** April 18, 2016, 09:46:42 PM »

Sounds like good old hot rodding to me, Keith, I'd go for it. Besides, Jesel is really good stuff. On the pushrod holes, they are sized so that a 3/4" diameter thinwall aluminum tube can be squashed flat and pushed in there. I don't sell those tubes, but they would be easy enough to make up. If I remachined the holes, you could make up the tubes and put them in place, then fill the gap between the tubes and the port with epoxy, and I think that would work.

fekbmax · « **Reply #59 on:** April 18, 2016, 10:00:33 PM »

Got ya on the aluminum tube, wasn't sure if you had some already elongated or not. I can handle that no prob. I'd probably feel more comfortable letting you re drill the pushrod holes though. I know I could hack them up and make it work but feel like if I let you do them it would be much cleaner therefore much easier to make the repairs. Could you possibly e mail me with the info as to $ for doing the intake side and the best way and where to send it to ? Thanks for the help.

jayb · « **Reply #60 on:** April 18, 2016, 10:25:05 PM »

Email sent - Jay

XR7 · « **Reply #61 on:** April 18, 2016, 11:24:22 PM »

Normally the intake side would have the offset, but you can also have offsets both directions if needed. On the t&D race stuff, they have centered, .080, .170 and .250 lefts and rights. On the lifters, usually it is .180 offsets and do help. or if you have .904 lifters you can get .210 offsets. I have a set that is offset on the intake side only and centered on the exhaust, I think and easier way would be to have double offset lifters, then they can go anywhere and also you can swap them 1/2 way through the life cycle so that the intake is now the exhaust (intake lobe is more aggressive and wears out the intake lifter bearing before the exhaust.

One thing to look for is there are all kinds of "pivot" lengths on Jesel and T&D rockers. The FE uses a 1.600 pivot length which isn't very common. Most of the Jesel and T&D rockers for "cup" engines and the high end racy stuff, is longer like 1.75 or 1.85 pivot length, which won't work even if it is the right ratio and offsets. The "old" Cleveland has some that are shorter pivot lengths like 1.52, while the newer stuff is 1.65 or 1.75 or even 1.85 for the latest heads.

fekbmax · « **Reply #62 on:** April 19, 2016, 11:26:26 AM »

Thanks XR7 for the input.
speaking of the distance between the center of the fulcrum (shaft) and the center of the roller tip With the small dia roller that comes on those rockers it rest just slightly forward of the center of the valve tip, it gets better as the valve opens, . just for shits and giggles I took the roller out and swapped it with the larger roller from the erson rocker and that helped some as far as contact surface area. Next I installed a crutch (lash cap) and it looked better even still.
I'm still in the experimental stage.of just doing alot of test fitting and looking and may go back and dig through some more boxes of rockers to see what's there.

Jay, thanks for the e mail. I will definitely be sending it back to you so you can make the adjustments on the pushrod tubes. It's going to be a few days but I'll e mail and let you know ahead of time.
As always thanks for all the help, input, and information. Bunch of great guys here.

fekbmax · « **Reply #63 on:** April 20, 2016, 11:48:35 AM »

After bloody and pinched fingertips I'm reminded why they call them Jesus clips, uggh.

mbrunson427 · « **Reply #64 on:** April 21, 2016, 05:19:53 PM »

Can you explain your oiling scheme to me. I don't totally understand the three taps in the side of the block. Everyone on here seems seasoned enough to understand what you've got going.....but i don't.

fekbmax · « **Reply #65 on:** April 21, 2016, 08:12:33 PM »

It's my attempt at a type of priority main oiling system for the standard center oiler blocks. Been doing it since the late 80's with no adverse effects and felt like it had worked pretty well. Excellent main and rod bearing wear on some garage build drag race engines that got beat on pretty hard. There are some feeling's that it's a waist of time and labor, some feel it could actually cause damage and failure. It's what I have done up to this point on half a dozen drag race engines. Over the years I have broken 2 428 cranks, both at the rod journals yet those very journals had excellent bearing wear and still turned freely in the rods, broke a couple eagle rods (two different engines) just below the piston pin and the sections left on the crank turned freely and showed excellent bearing wear again. I haven't seen any signs as of yet of it causing any problems as far as oiling and bearing wear.
Take it for what it's worth. I do most of as much as I can of all my own work so besides materials I only have to supply my own time and labor.

mbrunson427 · « **Reply #66 on:** April 22, 2016, 02:03:46 PM »

So you'll be taking oil straight from the filter adapter to your rail on the side of the block, after the filter? And where do you have the line from the back of your oil rail heading to?

fekbmax · « **Reply #67 on:** April 22, 2016, 02:17:58 PM »

Yes, it ties into the oil filter adapter, (mounted on chassis, not shown) on the engine feed side after filter. The rear line goes around to the rear main cap. #'s 2,3,4,and 5 all get plumbed. (Page 2 of build).

fekbmax · « **Reply #68 on:** May 22, 2016, 08:59:43 PM »

Below is a few Picts of my Frankenstein, home grown, 9 point mounting rocker shaft suport system. Made of nothing more than a chunk of 7071 aluminum from the scrap yard and 3/16" steel plate and 3/16" angle (not cheap bedrail stuff) from my scrap metal bin. Some grade 8 hardware to hold everything solidly together. It's very crude and basic as is much of my hacksaw and angle grinder made pieces but easy made in a weekend. I'll use 12 point head stud nuts on the 3 center head studs so the smaller 5/8" socket can be used to torque the stud nuts inside the u brackets and also the 12 point nuts tuck nicely up inside of the counter bore that's under the bottom of the erson shaft suports when sat down into place. On the outboard head studs I use standard hex nuts so a crow foot adapter can be used to torque those.
Not pretty, not production quality pieces, but I'm confident it will work well and at the very least won't hurt anything at all.
I can't imagine why something couldn't be done in some way or another by someone that has the propper tools (IE bridgeport) and make some kinda suport system for standard shaft type rocker setups.

fekbmax · « **Reply #69 on:** May 30, 2016, 07:41:47 PM »

Had a pretty busy holiday weekend with running around doing the family thing but my valve seals showed up Friday along with a pack of spring shims so today since it was a chill day and to rainy to work outside I got to spend some time in the shop clicking my heads back together.

Did a light touch with some compound and hand lapped the valves in.

Valves and seats all cleaned up and ready to go back together.

Setting installed spring heights. Was very pleased that only two of the intakes even needed shims to get to within .005 of each other. Kuntz & Co did the valve job so I wasn't to suprised that they were so close. On the exhaust side it took .050 - .065 shims to bring them to installed height. I exspected this though as the titanium exhaust valves where some I supplied and had been previously sunk a little deeper into the seat the last go round when they were hand ported. Everything worked out good though and I'm always happy to see consistently. None were way off from the others.

Heads all finished up and ready to find there home.

Im still poking along making slow progress but starting to see a little light at the end of the tunnel..

fekbmax · « **Reply #70 on:** June 12, 2016, 09:20:40 PM »

Finally was able to finish up my hybrid 351C to FE belt drive system. Wanted to say thanks to Mike at Australian muscle parts for supplying me with a good quality belt and seal. He is a great guy and would recommend his services to anyone that doesn't mind the wait for parts being shipped from down under. Once I had the final parts I needed I was able to make final modifications and adjustments and am pretty happy with how it turned out. Progress is slow but the heads are ready to go and I'm hoping to be installing the short block. Back into the car very soon so I can continue final assembly of the engine.

jayb · « **Reply #71 on:** June 12, 2016, 11:42:22 PM »

Looks great, Keith!

cjshaker · « **Reply #72 on:** June 12, 2016, 11:47:54 PM »

Looking really good, Keith. That belt system looks really nice, but I'm curious why you didn't go with the Danny Bee set-up? Was it just cost savings? Nice chamber and port work on the heads also. Can't wait to see it finished.

fekbmax · « **Reply #73 on:** June 13, 2016, 08:39:56 AM »

As far as the belt drive goes, I'd say that cost would be part of it. I have about $525.00 out of pocket invested in it (with the new belt and seal) so that's just shy of half what a Danny Bee would have cost me. Of course it doesn't account for my labor which I consider free to me as well as the scrap aluminum plate that had been laying around my shop for years. I guess the biggest thing though is just doing something to see if you can and have it work afterwords. Kinda the same thing with the home made rocker shaft mounting system. I guess o my time will tell and we will see how it all turns out in the end.

fekbmax · « **Reply #74 on:** June 30, 2016, 09:33:11 PM »

Finding top dead center and degreeing cam. Was pleased to find that the cam sheet from Delta camshafts was pretty much spot on. Still waiting on that dam cometic head gasket though. Suppose to ship on the 7th.. I'm hoping.

WConley · « **Reply #75 on:** July 01, 2016, 12:38:43 AM »

That's a nice little DIY roller lifter measuring tool. Do you have to watch the wheel orientation carefully? I don't see any feature to keep it aligned in the bore.

Cool stuff

fekbmax · « **Reply #76 on:** July 01, 2016, 11:14:13 AM »

You would be correct but it's pretty easy to do. In the past I used another lifter like that with a modified dog bone to keep it from turning but it's magically disappeared. One of those things that you find again not long after you don't need it lol.
For what it's worth and that prob ain't much, the copper tube is full of plumbers lead, makes the whole thing heavy so it moves smoothly up and down the bore and also helps to keep it from rocking in the bore. I found that by fixing the roller so it will not spin it helps to keep the lifter from trying to turn. I normally just use some light pressure with my finger on the top of the lifter body itself when I'm turning the crank. So far I haven't had any troubles with it. With everything coming back to within + or - a thou or so at the most I have to feel like it works out OK.

fekbmax · « **Reply #77 on:** July 17, 2016, 10:02:18 PM »

Still waiting on my head gasket. Getting frustrated but can do nothing but wait. Have gotten 3 different "expected delivery" dates. The last got was 7_15_16 yet I still haven't seen it. I was able to get my 660's back together over the weekend though. Thanks to Allstate carbs for there quality billet custom base plates and there over haul kits and hard parts and squirters. There great to work with and have competitive Price's. I'm still a big fan of the 660's for all out racing.

fekbmax · « **Reply #78 on:** July 17, 2016, 10:08:57 PM »

Also got my vacuum pump and alternator pulleys installed along with my crank trigger wheel and sensor and bracket assembly..
Baby steps...

Heo · « **Reply #79 on:** July 18, 2016, 06:19:00 AM »

I seems like there is much more you can buy
today then in the 80s. But you have to wait
much longer.......just on a simpel thing like
headgaskets...or valvesprings....or pistons

Nightmist66 · « **Reply #80 on:** July 18, 2016, 07:15:48 PM »

Looking nice Keith! Keep it up.

fekbmax · « **Reply #81 on:** July 18, 2016, 09:27:14 PM »

Head gasket shipped today.. yey..

cobracammer · « **Reply #82 on:** July 19, 2016, 06:40:47 AM »

Beautiful.... I have engine Envy :0)

fekbmax · « **Reply #83 on:** August 14, 2016, 07:48:25 PM »

Home fabricated Hybrid intake and carbs all ready to go on the FE power intake adapter..

FunnelWeb setup also ready

Nightmist66 · « **Reply #84 on:** August 14, 2016, 08:51:34 PM »

Kool!!! Can't wait to see that installed.

cjshaker · « **Reply #85 on:** August 14, 2016, 09:47:15 PM »

That's a really nice set-up! You do some very nice work, Keith. That intake looks like a nicely designed piece. Is that a pop-off valve on the back of the intake, for backfires?

It looks like you have dividers between 1/5 & 7/8 ports (if I'm looking at it correctly). Is that to minimize port disturbance with sequential firing cylinders? I've thought about that issue before with open plenum intakes. Have you gotten any evidence that it made or makes a difference on your set-up?

fekbmax · « **Reply #86 on:** August 15, 2016, 12:23:46 PM »

Thanks Doug, I appreciate it. It's all just home brewed old school back yard stuff. The intake runners are cut pro ram runners from a 351C tunnel ram I used on a PSE adapter years back. The plenum I fabbed up and initially made it with to much plenum volume for a little FE and hand ported heads. It looks monstrous on the outside but you can see I did shrink down the plenum volume some on the inside . My hopes are that it works ok with a few more cubic inches now and some awesome flowing Kuntz heads. I know on my old combo that when I went from the 1" open spacers to 1-1/2" 4 hole spacers it picked up from a 6.21 to a 6.03 (1/8th) just with the spacer change. Stronger signal with the 660's and 4 hole spacers must have really helped the intake. That's where I'll start at again knowing that alot has changed and I'll have to most likely make some changes again. The 660's are now a bit more tunable and with the blended Venturi mods and the modified base plate they should be flowing closer to 740 cfm each. The dividers are just as you ex spected, I have no proof (as of yet) that this will or will not help or how much but I have read alot of old school articles about tuning tunnel rams, how those cylinders could potentially Rob the intake charge due to the pulse of the side by side cylinder's and how using the 4 hole spacer will also help because of maintaining a stronger signal. Grumpy's garage has excellent articles and tuning advice for all sorts of tunnel rams.
I guess I'm stuck in old school but for good reason, I don't have a dyno or easy access to one, I can't afford to spend hours and hours on one to gain 5 or 10 hp so I still rely on older method's and try things that I read about and have seen in the past. I know back before the split Dominators were so popular, i seen several fabricated Intakes with these type of dividers in them. The big inch fords looked alot like what I did and the Chevy's always had there's straight down the middle which makes since due to the Chevy firing order.
Is what I done really worth anything or not? Idk but I'm hoping at least that it cant really hurt.
Yes, that's a pop off valve, got it from a swap meet several years ago and it fit nicely on the back of the plenum so I installed it. After all, there could be some fogging (BUG SPRAY) action in the future..

turbohunter · « **Reply #87 on:** August 15, 2016, 12:40:11 PM »

You get big props in my book for doing this stuff in your house and yard.
True hot rodder.

cjshaker · « **Reply #88 on:** August 16, 2016, 10:45:51 PM »

Well, just my gut feeling, the dividers probably do not hurt and may actually help, but I have no proof either. I also like the stealth look of the black, not to mention it sheds heat faster. One last question; what are the phillips screw heads for, in the bottom of the plenum? What are you hiding underneath?

Screws in plenums would make me nervous...lol

fekbmax · « **Reply #89 on:** August 17, 2016, 06:15:01 AM »

There actualy not in there any longer, they were there to hold down the channel for welding so it wouldn't roll up on the ends or raise in the center from the exstream heat from tig welding aluminum.

FishCakes428 · « **Reply #90 on:** August 17, 2016, 07:13:17 PM »

Quote from: fekbmax on July 17, 2016, 10:08:57 PM

Also got my vacuum pump and alternator pulleys installed along with my crank trigger wheel and sensor and bracket assembly..
Baby steps...

Hey Keith, tell me more about the crank trigger arrangement. Chebby stuff? Maybe a brief description? What it took or take to make it work? I have a project in the wind and a crank trigger will be an ignition option. Suffice it to say, there won't be any room for a distributor.
Really nice fab work so far. Kudo's

fekbmax · « **Reply #91 on:** August 17, 2016, 08:21:31 PM »

It's actually a MSD setup that was designed for the ford FE. It hasn't been cataloged for the past several years though so I'm not sure if they make it any longer. Most are using the Chevy setup though and just modifying the sensor bracket.

Pentroof · « **Reply #92 on:** August 20, 2016, 10:17:07 AM »

Just getting up to speed on this thread. Nice build.

Did I notice a smear of sealant between the girdle and the block? I'll assume there is none between the girdle and the caps?

fekbmax · « **Reply #93 on:** August 28, 2016, 08:36:19 PM »

#2 around pan rail only. High and dry on caps.

fekbmax · « **Reply #94 on:** September 04, 2016, 02:05:15 PM »

"Its in the hole"
let the fun begin, alternator and vacuum pump mount fabrication and installation, top end of engine, hoses, wiring, linkages, sensors, exhaust headers, flywheel, clutch, transmission, on and on and on.. all fun stuff though.

fekbmax · « **Reply #95 on:** September 12, 2016, 08:33:27 AM »

The back of the intake adapter was interfering with my rear engine plate so I used one of my favorite and most trusted tools and zipped the back off with my angle grinder.

Next I used same such tool and trimmed the ears off the top of the ports on the adapter.

After some clean up and leveling I then marked the top of the ports for the 1/16" plugs. They were positioned so that they are close to being in the center of the port on the head side so in the future to have decent spray pattern into the intake port behind the valve. Drilling, tapping, and more clean up followed.

Turned out decently once it was all done for useing some basic tools.

Next it was time to make up the intake to cylinder head gaskets. I use some .080 thick TexCel, I like this stuff for intake gaskets and have used it a while. Made many of intake gaskets and adapter gaskets in the past with it for the old PSE adapter I had.

Was able to test fit my 9 point rocker shaft mounting system before the day was over.

Everything seemed to be fitting well so far, a little massaging here and there but that's always exspected. I really like the fact that by removing (or before installing) the 4 stock location shaft assembly studs, the shafts will slip out and in nicely while still mounted on the head. This will be great for initial setup and shiming of the rockers to get them lined up in the best position for the pushrods and valve tips. I know it looks a bit crude but I'm liking it..

Had hoped to get a little farther but only had Sunday to work on it. Hoping that maybe this comming weekend I will be able to install the adapter and valve train assembly.
Always hoping..

Bolted to Floor · « **Reply #96 on:** September 12, 2016, 04:50:51 PM »

When are you going to post the crud pics? Everything I've seen is quality work.

fekbmax · « **Reply #97 on:** September 12, 2016, 08:14:08 PM »

LOL, Thanks, I appreciate it. I catch alot of flack sometimes because I use a angle grinder for almost anything. Just me and my old school ways.

fekbmax · « **Reply #98 on:** October 08, 2016, 09:48:11 PM »

Intake adapter gaskets cut out and in place for intake adapter. And yes i did trim out for oil drain back although I'll admit I came very close to forgetting lol. I really like this TexCel stuff and try to keep a few sheetseconds in different thickness. It holds up to oil and gas exceptionally well and even holds up to heat pretty well. I used some in a pinch for header flange gaskets once with no issues. Of course I wouldn't recommend it long term but it seemed to hold up just as well as the old asbestos type gaskets do. Farther down the line though it works really good for collector gaskets. And yes, I did cut out oil drain backs.
Good stuff.

fekbmax · « **Reply #99 on:** October 08, 2016, 09:54:31 PM »

Another advantage of the 9 Point mounting system, it's easy to leave the 4 main stand studs out yet have the stands mounted and have everything in place firmly so as to be able to properly shim the rocker arms getting the roller tips and push rod adjusters lined up in a happy place.

jayb · « **Reply #100 on:** October 09, 2016, 08:31:45 AM »

Looks really good, Keith. Can you post some more pics of the rocker shaft mounting arrangement? I'm having trouble visualizing it from the pictures have posted already. I'm kind of curious about your approach there...

fekbmax · « **Reply #101 on:** October 09, 2016, 10:59:32 AM »

sure thing,
its kinda crude and for sure back yard garage built stuff, a working prototype you might say, i know i could do a much better job as far as how they look but im confident that they will work just fine and at this point i just wanna get my junk back together and up and running.

i machined a nice flat and level pad on the heads at the head stud nut mounting surface. these brackets fit down over the studs then the washer and nut torqued down holds them in place. the shaft stands slip down in them, a good tight fit and a through bolt slips through the brackets and the stands holding them in place. there are tangs on the brackets that hold them square and in-place so they don't move or twist when torquing the head.

the one draw back with this design is you have to use a crow foot adapter to torque the outboard head studs because of clearance.

i feel like its a decent set up, like i said, with some time, better tooling, (made these with hack saw, drill and grinder lol) they could be made to look a bit more professional but im happy with it, how it works and the added benefits of being able to install or remove the shafts/rockers while still fixed to the head by just taking out the 4 standard mounting studs.

jayb · « **Reply #102 on:** October 09, 2016, 11:27:05 AM »

Thanks for the pics, that does look like a very strong setup.

fekbmax · « **Reply #103 on:** October 09, 2016, 11:32:56 AM »

i dont think i have hurt anything and if it helps at all then it was worth a weekend in the shop messing around with some scrap.

cjshaker · « **Reply #104 on:** October 09, 2016, 08:24:49 PM »

Keith, I always like your work and ingenuity.
Is it just me, or do those retainers look too small for the valve springs? I don't recall ever seeing springs hanging that far out of the retainers.

fekbmax · « **Reply #105 on:** October 09, 2016, 08:52:12 PM »

I had that concern when I first seen them but have since been told by a couple very reliable sources that they were fine. I have about 15 passes on those Springs and retainers in the 7400 rpm range with no issues.

fekbmax · « **Reply #106 on:** November 09, 2016, 10:00:49 PM »

Setting up rocker alignment over valve tip and push rod tubes. Its much easier (for me) to do it and get it right this way with the shaft supports already mounted to the head and being able to slide the shaft in from one end while adding the spacers.

Also, my slightly used lifters all cleaned and inspected and ready to drop in the holes.

Hoping to make Good bit of progress this coming weekend. Work has stalled me and burned me out but A/C season is over now, cept for a few dozen heat pumps i have out there so I'm hoping the fall and winter allows me to get this thing done.

fekbmax · « **Reply #107 on:** November 22, 2016, 04:07:23 PM »

The rocker assembly and valve train all installed and adjusted, cold lash set. Really pleased with all the room around the pushrods with Jay's adapter. The last PSE adapter I had, I had to chew and whittle on several tube's to gain a little clearance.

fekbmax · « **Reply #108 on:** November 22, 2016, 04:09:14 PM »

Alternator and vacuum pump aligned and mounted, water pump, Alternator, and primary ignition wiring ran and hooked up. Still some plumbing to do, cooling system and vacuum pump along with the exhaust headers to go.

fekbmax · « **Reply #109 on:** November 22, 2016, 04:12:22 PM »

Intake and carbs installed, fuel lines ran and hooked up. Oil line feed and return along with additional external oil feeds to mains hooked up to filter re-location mount.

fekbmax · « **Reply #110 on:** November 22, 2016, 04:17:01 PM »

I hope to jump on the plumbing and exhaust over the holidays, along with the starter and flywheel to get things spinning..

jayb · « **Reply #111 on:** November 22, 2016, 04:39:00 PM »

Looks great, Keith! I'll bet you can't wait 'til spring...

Barry_R · « **Reply #112 on:** November 22, 2016, 09:18:16 PM »

Quote from: WConley on March 29, 2016, 07:35:45 PM

The key for adding additional oil feeds is the location on the bearing journal. All of those applications you mention put the oil in at the split line or higher. ...

Up top there's very little of that hydrodynamic pressure, so more oil can be introduced easily.

I know this is really old (sorry - just saw the drawing - missed that earlier). Good data to see. One friend of mine was working with putting a short annular groove into the upper bearing saddle feeding from the "normal" main feed, and adding a second feed hole into the bearing on the leading side of the bearing's upper groove. Put the oil supply into the main's groove earlier in the rotation and seemed to help a bit on 1000HP+ turbo applications.

fekbmax · « **Reply #113 on:** November 23, 2016, 01:43:35 AM »

I'll for sure be happy for spring, just hoping I'll be close to ready. It's a never ending thing. Still need so much. Slicks, chassis re certification, up to date belts, helmet, and either a new driving jacket or lose about 20lb, think we know which is easiest to do lol. Need my license renewed, new medical,.. list goes on and on.. never the less 4 new tires for my trailer plus inspection. Inspection for the bus, pull the tyranny, fix it and stick it back in... uggh now I'm getting depressed... lol.

thatdarncat · « **Reply #114 on:** November 23, 2016, 12:29:17 PM »

Quote from: fekbmax on November 23, 2016, 01:43:35 AM

... Need my license renewed, new medical,..

If you're talking about your NHRA license, NHRA changed the requirement - you no longer need a medical exam for most Sportsman/Bracket catagories Here's a link to the NHRA site announcement:

http://www.nhraracer.com/content/general.asp?articleid=65583&zoneid=175

There, I crossed one thing off your list lol.

fekbmax · « **Reply #115 on:** November 23, 2016, 03:27:03 PM »

Sweet!!
Always nice to cross something off.
Thanks Kevin..

fekbmax · « **Reply #116 on:** November 27, 2016, 10:42:48 PM »

Made a little progress over the weekend, never as much as I'd hope but progress never the less.

Had to do quite a bit of rough port matching to the pipes to accommodate the taller in the roof Kuntz exhaust ports.

Cleaned them up some, heated them infront of my gun heater, (cold here this weekend) then hit them with a fresh coat of VHT high temp..

Cut some gaskets out,

And now pipes are all installed and ready for some heavy breathing.

fekbmax · « **Reply #117 on:** November 27, 2016, 10:57:02 PM »

Breather tank mount made and tank mounted, pump and tank plumbed up. Still need to install the relief valve and had thought about mounting it on the cover at the back of the intake adapter but thought about oil flooding it at launch so I reckon I'll just mount it on the adjacent valve cover instead.

fekbmax · « **Reply #118 on:** November 27, 2016, 11:01:04 PM »

Found a nice spot (for me) to mount the oil accumulator, worked out well, it's out of the way, easy to get to and easy for me to open and close with the heal of your clutch foot as well. Works for me.. just need to pick up a couple fittings to complete the install..

fekbmax · « **Reply #119 on:** January 07, 2017, 03:49:22 PM »

things have been moving slow, with holidays, travailing, lots of working over time, its been a busy end to the year and a eventful start to this one.
i have managed to get my DataQuest Data logger MCU mounted, the TCD mounted as well as the primary sensor Node and have it all about 75% hooked up. waiting on a few sensors and things to complete the task. for now i will be monitoring the basics such as :
engine RPM
Drive shaft RPM
Input shaft RPM
Battery Voltage
G Force
Oil Pressure
Water Temp
Fuel Pressure
Crank Case Vacum
1- EGT with plans to add the rest when and if any substantual amounts of NOS will to be used in the future .
2- Wide Ban o2 sensors, (1 each bank)

fekbmax · « **Reply #120 on:** May 17, 2017, 10:44:55 PM »

Its been a while, things going slow, waiting on parts, getting sent the wrong things, then a bench full of parts and i end up working 6 10's days a week for the last 3 months. I been burned out pretty much. I enjoyed the FE reunion though, was happy to meet a few of you guys. I wish i could have been there longer but as it was i left 3am saterday morning and drove nearly 7 hours to get there around 10am. Had a great time and scored a few parts i had lined up, hung out till the race was over and drove straight back home after stopping for a good meal, making it home around 2:30am. It was totally worth it though.
So, im back to work on the stang. Had to reace the tank to carbs fuel line, re build the Mallory comp pump, stuck a new 900 ca battery in, ran a new alternator wire, installed the radiator and coolant lines. Finally got my clutch setup installed after replacing the springs . Had the wrong springs sent twice. I returned them the first time and ill be damed if they didn't turn around and send the same ones back, same box and all lol. Finally on the next try i got the ones i wanted or close enough anyway. They were supose to be 65# at 1.850 height, (ram springs) well the old Hays mark 12 sets up at 1.900 and every spring checked at 70# @ 1.850 and 68# @ 1.90 so close enough. Anyway im rambling, pressure plate is all back together and set, (no counter weight yet, ill add that later) clutch can installed and dialed in, should be slipping the ol jerico in this weekend.
I really need to thank David Walter's for selling me my clutch and flywheel back to me. I reached out to him and he really helped me out by selling it back to me. Thanks a bunch David.
Anyway im hoping to start making progress again, im way behind. Hopfuly i get the rest of the drive train in this weekend and get my rocker shafts switched over to the new DSC shafts. Hoping to put some fire in the hole by next weekend.

cjshaker · « **Reply #121 on:** May 19, 2017, 10:23:09 AM »

Nice, Keith. Few questions for you. What type/make of flywheel is that, or was it custom machined to remove weight? Also, do they give you grief about the inspection cover that you cut in the bell? Obviously you would not be able to get that re-certified by Lakewood, so I assume they just let it slide, or perhaps you run a blanket over it?

Also, glad to meet you at the FE Reunion. Hope to see you...and possibly the car as well, next year.

fekbmax · « **Reply #122 on:** May 19, 2017, 02:06:53 PM »

I was told the flywheel was made by clutch masters. Theres no markings on it cept for a old sfi certification number and date scribed in. It came from a top sportsman car powered by a 598 big block ford. He went to a ram full billet setup back around 2oo3 and i got the setup from him.
As far as the clutch can, well the 3 outlaw type 1/8th mile tracks i go to have all looked right at it and never said a word. The most frequent 1/4 i go to, well there good with it but have been told that at any nhra points/ national events its prob not gonna fly. I an to have a Browell made but holding off because I'm pondering a gearbox change and want to be sure i get what i need the first time.
It was really nice meeting a bunch of you guys to, wish i woulda had more time.

fekbmax · « **Reply #123 on:** June 30, 2017, 02:18:43 PM »

fekbmax · « **Reply #124 on:** June 30, 2017, 02:49:13 PM »

XR7 · « **Reply #125 on:** January 27, 2018, 06:00:57 PM »

Bump! Hi Keith. I was looking through this old thread and wondered if you had any updates and or track time with this engine in your stick car. It sure is a shame what Photo-bucket did as it really ruined all the time you took posting pictures of your progress and info through this whole project. I remember most of it but was just looking back on this and wondering how things turned out. I wish I could at least see the clutch set-up, LOL. Did you ever sell your Boninfonte?

Thor

fekbmax · « **Reply #126 on:** January 28, 2018, 02:08:45 PM »

Thor,
well yes and no. no full passes yet, 11 test hits, 3 to the 330. Mostly junk hits but started off pretty low with base and a old 5135 disk trying to take care of the Jerico clutchless. Got close then re sprung the pressure plate, stuck in a fresh disk and made a couple hits until the anti roll bar broke so i just finished up making a much better one. best so far is 1.382 60ft (not that great)and 3.788 330ft (surprisingly ok). i'll be back out the end of march to do some more test hits. hope to have the rest of my Data Quest hooked up and working by then. Im really just shooting in the dark till i get some data to look at. Shooting for some 5.60's in the 1/8th. Probably a bit optimistic but what the hell, gotta have something to shoot for. If i can get the clutch pretty close to dialed in, ill slap the fab intake on and start back on some tuning. Its tuff doing this stuff by yourself, and working 60 hr weeks as well. Im pretty burned out on everything right now. thanks for asking though.

cjshaker · « **Reply #127 on:** January 30, 2018, 11:35:58 AM »

Agree with Thor, it really sucks that you lost all the great pictures in this thread. You had some really good ones showing all the great work you did. Shame to lose all of that. I had considered redoing my thread on my Mach and updating all the pictures on another site, but dang that's a lot of work.

Hope we get to see your car in action at the FE R&R, Keith.

fekbmax · « **Reply #128 on:** January 30, 2018, 04:23:48 PM »

I been slowly trying to go through and re add some pics using jays attachment options. When I have some time and feel like messing with it.

blykins · « **Reply #129 on:** January 31, 2018, 09:52:52 AM »

Photobucket - bunch of jack legs.

What they did was basically blackmail.

turbohunter · « **Reply #130 on:** January 31, 2018, 10:57:04 AM »

Postimage is easy.
Use the two largest settings.
Works great on Jays sight.
https://postimages.org

fekbmax · « **Reply #131 on:** January 31, 2018, 01:32:29 PM »

https://s9.postimg.org/ha2tkt2in/20170211_151734.jpg

Test.

jayb · « **Reply #132 on:** January 31, 2018, 02:30:53 PM »

Keith, that works but you have to click on the link to see the picture. There is another link in post image that you can paste into the message, so that the picture shows up in the message.

cjshaker · « **Reply #133 on:** January 31, 2018, 03:06:38 PM »

Yeah, I think it's the link that says "for use on forums", or something like that.

BUT, that looks freakin awesome, Keith!! You really do nice work.

fastback 427 · « **Reply #134 on:** January 31, 2018, 03:16:54 PM »

Holy crap that looks awesome!!!!!

turbohunter · « **Reply #135 on:** January 31, 2018, 03:30:35 PM »

Keith I use the direct link button.
If you click on the farthest right part of the box (that says direct link) with the symbol in it, it automatically copies for you so you can then go back to Jays site and use his little image symbol (the Mona Lisa pic).
And that engine is beautiful.

fekbmax · « **Reply #136 on:** January 31, 2018, 03:55:22 PM »

Thanks for the help, ill give that a try..

fekbmax · « **Reply #137 on:** January 31, 2018, 04:14:09 PM »

Thanks for the kind words as well.
Good group of guys here.

scott foxwell · « **Reply #138 on:** February 13, 2018, 04:58:34 PM »

Any other link to your pics?

fekbmax · « **Reply #139 on:** February 13, 2018, 07:25:20 PM »

Unfortunately not, still have about 3/4 of the pics on my phone so I'm trying to replace them here and there when I get the time.

machoneman · « **Reply #140 on:** February 13, 2018, 08:02:16 PM »

Just opened the pic! Wow, now that's one impressive engine.

fekbmax · « **Reply #141 on:** March 04, 2018, 08:44:26 PM »

Thanks to 66FAIRLANE for sharing the trick to easy get the photo bucket pics back..

cjshaker · « **Reply #142 on:** March 05, 2018, 05:49:05 PM »

EDIT: Never mind, I found the post he made. Worked for me too.

Keith, could you PM me with the instructions on how you got your pictures back? I'd like to get them back on my thread for my Mach 1, but don't want to spend days doing it.

Really glad you got yours back up, because you do such nice work that it deserves to be seen.

fekbmax · « **Reply #143 on:** March 05, 2018, 10:59:50 PM »

Glad you got your stuff back up to. Now let's hope they don't find a way to take um down again..

jayb · « **Reply #144 on:** March 06, 2018, 09:46:19 AM »

Wouldn't surprise me if they do that. You guys should just transfer your pics to postimage.org.

cjshaker · « **Reply #145 on:** March 06, 2018, 10:53:31 AM »

Quote from: jayb on March 06, 2018, 09:46:19 AM

Wouldn't surprise me if they do that. You guys should just transfer your pics to postimage.org.

The "fix" is making it's way around the internet, so I'm sure it's only a matter of time before they change it. Eventually we'll just have to transfer them, but in the meantime, it's kinda nice to give Photobucket the big ol' middle finger...lol

jayb · « **Reply #146 on:** March 06, 2018, 06:56:23 PM »

I hear you LOL!

If I had pics on Photobucket I'd be doing exactly the same thing!

FElony · « **Reply #147 on:** March 07, 2018, 12:43:42 AM »

Quote from: jayb on March 06, 2018, 09:46:19 AM

Wouldn't surprise me if they do that. You guys should just transfer your pics to postimage.org.

What I don't understand is this: when you upload a photo to the Bucket (or anywhere else) the original pic file still stays on your computer or phone. Why are people having to chase down old pics when you should still have them? I apologize on behalf of the forum owner and others for this hijack.

jayb · « **Reply #148 on:** March 07, 2018, 08:55:50 AM »

Quote from: FElony on March 07, 2018, 12:43:42 AM

What I don't understand is this: when you upload a photo to the Bucket (or anywhere else) the original pic file still stays on your computer or phone. Why are people having to chase down old pics when you should still have them? I apologize on behalf of the forum owner and others for this hijack.

Speaking just for myself, I have over ten thousand electronic photos spread over the 20 years since I got my first digital camera, and hunting through them to find a specific photo that I used in a particular message would be time consuming and problematic. Not worth the effort in most cases.

turbohunter · « **Reply #149 on:** March 07, 2018, 09:27:12 AM »

Quote from: FElony on March 07, 2018, 12:43:42 AM

I apologize on behalf of the forum owner and others for this hijack.

What have you done with FElony?

FElony · « **Reply #150 on:** March 07, 2018, 01:53:43 PM »

Quote from: turbohunter on March 07, 2018, 09:27:12 AM

Quote from: FElony on March 07, 2018, 12:43:42 AM
I apologize on behalf of the forum owner and others for this hijack.
What have you done with FElony?

I accidentally had a can of tuna in vegetable oil instead of water yesterday. My bad. Now I look like this: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=az352YaZNM0 You are what you eat, guys. Now, if you'll excuse me, I have to go bra shopping.

Heo · « **Reply #151 on:** March 07, 2018, 02:36:51 PM »

Veg. Oil... you poor bastard $:-\$ $:-\$ Brashopping... Shrugs...Euuuww
No pics please

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