Garden block test mule

[ScotiaFE]

As you can see from the picture's below the bargain store nipple has alot of taper on the threads and this makes it much thinner so its very easy to stress it by over tightening it and makes it more prone to break or splitting under high vibration ..  JMO.

Are they not two different threads?
The one on the left looks like a NPT and looks pretty close to spec.
I would have to measure to be sure.
The one on the right appears to be a straight thread and is a completely different thread than a taper thread.

[fekbmax]

Both NPT  .
Or I should say the one is loose binned and labeled as 1/8" Npt. The other individualy packaged and marked as 1/8" npt.  1/8" npt die screws right down on both. The thin wall (imo) came from hardware store. The better one (imo) came from Southern plumbing supply.

[ScotiaFE]

Judging from the photo the one on the left is a cut thread and the one on the right is a rolled thread.
The one on the left is not necessarily a bad or cheap fitting. It was made for low pressure water in a house type thing.
The one on the right was made with a schedule 80 or there about pipe and made for higher pressures such as hydraulic systems.
It would interesting to know the angle of the one on the right.
Straight pipe threads will engage taper pipe threads.

The taper angle of a NPT is  1* 47' 24''  and is noticeable to the eye when you look at it.

[fekbmax]

It's a uni-thread. LoL.
 You-need It to fit, cinch down on it.
Worked for me, I'm happy with it. 

[ScotiaFE]

 

[fekbmax]

You been in my shop at work, ? LoL. Got one of those hanging on the door, old and faded and coffee stained.
Yours is cooler though with the FE info at the bottom.. 

[Nightmist66]

Small world, we have a few copies of that chart w/out the FE info. also. 

[fekbmax]

i managed to get the bottom end buttoned up. modified windage tray. P.O.P. oil pump, big tube rear sump pickup, modified full sump truck pan installed. 

[fekbmax]

Next I got started on my home made / modified 351c to FE belt drive system.  My stuff looks very home made, shade tree type stuff cause I use mostly all hand and basic electric tools. Infact angle grinders, drills, hack saws, files, and a electric die grinder is about all I used to fab this up besides a few small task   on my 3 in 1 and useng a tig welder to weld it up.
I started off with a Cleveland belt drive that I got on the cheap.
I knew the Cleveland and FE had the same crank to cam centerline so it stood to reason the gears, tensioner, and belt would all work.
t made a very crude pattern of the plate I would need to make and transferred it over to a piece of 3/8" thick scrap aluminum plate. It took some finagling to get around some of the holes already drilled in the plate but was able to get it laid out.
 



Next I hacked out the center with an angle grinder and shaped it up some with a burr and some sanding drums. Didn't spent alot of time trying to make it look perfect because once the outer plate is added it woudnt be seen .

[fekbmax]

Next I bolted up the plate then over laid the outer plate with the seals being sure to line and center them up in the propper location before putting a few small tacks to hold it in place.






Next I tacked a piece of the same scrap in place for the oil an rail . I desided to wait till everything was welded up before drilling the oil pan rail holes and shaping the rail. Next it was all clamped down tight to a steel welding table and the final tig welding was finished up. Once the Finnish welding was done I again mounted it up and marked the pan rail bolt holes and scribe the final shape then removed it and drilled the holes and cut and shaped it to final shape.

[fekbmax]

Next I hit it with a few coat of epoxy crinkle coat, same one of stuff I used on the block then baked it a while. Then i re- installed the seals and mounted up the adapter plate again and took my measurements and made the adjustments in getting the gears lined up properly.

[fekbmax]

I had to take 0.230" off the back of the cam hub where it meets the face of the cam then I used a old crank sprocket and cut the teeth off it then cut it down making a 0.320" spacer to go on the crank before the crank gear.

[fekbmax]

, I was very happy with how it turned out. I have about $450.00 invested in the setup, not including my labor of course but that's the one thing I can afford. I will be replacing the lower seal because I slightly damaged it taking it out and its a easy swap. Also I'll be replacing the belt with a good quality American made piece as well. Other wise I'm happy with it to this point.



It is what it is.

[fekbmax]

Sizing up the FE power adapter. Both my intakes have previously been port matched to each other for use on the old PSE adapter. The intake side of the FE power adapter is pretty close considering the work done to the intakes. On the head side though there will be some considerable amount of work to be done o match the Kuntz CNC heads, especially on cylinders #-1,2,7,8 .

[FirstEliminator]

   Is all the oil plumbing for dry sump oiling?