Author Topic: My 427 SOHC Build..... Finally the time has come!  (Read 517344 times)

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jayb

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Re: My 427 SOHC Build..... Finally the time has come!
« Reply #2040 on: January 24, 2019, 03:35:14 PM »

I think where I get hazy is.....  Its getting injected back into the engine at the high RPM pressure of 70 PSI right?  Basically at 14 PSI precharge, I am just ensuring the piston in the chamber completly pushes all the oil out...... and has no effect on what pressure its injected back at?  Does that random line of thought sentence make sense?  :0)

Thanks again

Jason, that is sort of correct.  If all 2-1/2 quarts are injected back into the engine, the last little bit will go in at your precharge pressure.  The first little bit that is injected will go in at the 70 psi pressure.  As the oil is injected, the pressure in the system will drop, but it will always stay above zero, which is what happens if the oil pump pickup runs dry.  So the Accusump will save your engine in that case. 
Jay Brown
- 1969 Mach 1, Drag Week 2005 Winner NA/BB, 511" FE (10.60s @ 129); Drag Week 2007 Runner-Up PA/BB, 490" Supercharged FE (9.35 @ 151)
- 1964 Ford Galaxie, Drag Week 2009 Winner Modified NA (9.50s @ 143), 585" SOHC
- 1969 Shelby Clone, Drag Week 2015 Winner Modified NA (Average 8.98 @ 149), 585" SOHC

   

62Falcon390

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Re: My 427 SOHC Build..... Finally the time has come!
« Reply #2041 on: February 04, 2019, 08:52:46 PM »
how is the accusump working out for you? I have the same oil pan,, and got me thinking about getting one

Rick

cobracammer

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Re: My 427 SOHC Build..... Finally the time has come!
« Reply #2042 on: February 05, 2019, 01:52:55 PM »
Hey Rick.  Works well.  Installed in prob 1 hour (have mine mounted in the trunk).  I would definitely recommend it!
Jason
2005 Saleen S281 (427 SOHC 2 X 4 EFI swap), T56 Magnum XL 6 speed, 9" Currie rear with 3.89 Gears

62Falcon390

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Re: My 427 SOHC Build..... Finally the time has come!
« Reply #2043 on: February 05, 2019, 02:21:17 PM »
mounted in the trunk? don't you have to shut the valve off every time? Im not real sure how they work, guess I should read up

jayb

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Re: My 427 SOHC Build..... Finally the time has come!
« Reply #2044 on: February 05, 2019, 05:44:36 PM »
You can buy electrically operated remote valves for the Accusump, makes life a little easier...
Jay Brown
- 1969 Mach 1, Drag Week 2005 Winner NA/BB, 511" FE (10.60s @ 129); Drag Week 2007 Runner-Up PA/BB, 490" Supercharged FE (9.35 @ 151)
- 1964 Ford Galaxie, Drag Week 2009 Winner Modified NA (9.50s @ 143), 585" SOHC
- 1969 Shelby Clone, Drag Week 2015 Winner Modified NA (Average 8.98 @ 149), 585" SOHC

   

cobracammer

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Re: My 427 SOHC Build..... Finally the time has come!
« Reply #2045 on: February 08, 2019, 03:57:08 PM »
Exactly.  Sorry, forgot to mention.  The valve is electrically controlled by the ignition.  At ignition on, the valve opens and allows a pre-oil (Prime).  It takes a few seconds, but you can actually see the oil pressure gauge "lift" a little.  Also, its kind of timed perfectly as the EFI does a pre-squirt of fuel to assist with start up.  So an oil and fuel 2 for 1!  :0)
Jason
2005 Saleen S281 (427 SOHC 2 X 4 EFI swap), T56 Magnum XL 6 speed, 9" Currie rear with 3.89 Gears

62Falcon390

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Re: My 427 SOHC Build..... Finally the time has come!
« Reply #2046 on: February 09, 2019, 08:06:50 AM »
ok, I will check into this option, thanx

KMcCullah

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Re: My 427 SOHC Build..... Finally the time has come!
« Reply #2047 on: March 24, 2019, 10:57:10 AM »
I just caught Jared and Lou tweeking on your car, Jason. It sure turned out to be cool hot rod. Bad fast too! I'm having a hard time believing the Red Top Optima battery was bad already. But who knows. They did make some improvements I think. I'm liking the Fitech stuff too.
Kevin McCullah

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Re: My 427 SOHC Build..... Finally the time has come!
« Reply #2048 on: March 25, 2019, 08:15:09 AM »
Hey Kevin!  Thanks.  You are correct...  The optima was not bad, however they needed things to "Tweak" on for their to be a show  LOL  My old Optima was put back in after the show (however they let me keep the Autozone battery).  Also, the spark plugs (generic) they were putting on for the filming were also for show.  They never took my plugs off, but just made a plug or 2 for the scene.

The Guys, Jared and Lou, were super awesome.  I got to hang out on set for some of the filming.  They managed to dial in my fitech system and clean up some of my amateur wiring.  All in all a great experience!

 
Jason
2005 Saleen S281 (427 SOHC 2 X 4 EFI swap), T56 Magnum XL 6 speed, 9" Currie rear with 3.89 Gears

Nightmist66

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Re: My 427 SOHC Build..... Finally the time has come!
« Reply #2049 on: March 25, 2019, 09:51:07 PM »
You can buy electrically operated remote valves for the Accusump, makes life a little easier...

Hey Jay, what kind of restriction do the electric valves have? From what I have seen, the electrics generally have a small orifice which would negate the benefit of the Accusump, IMO. On my install, I used a manual shutoff valve from a local farm/tractor store that is called a "full port". The i.d. is around 9/16" and it is 1/2"NPT in/out. I located it where it is mostly hidden, but I can manually operate the throttle and close the valve at the same time.
Jared


66 Fairlane GT 390 .030 Over 390, Wide Ratio Top Loader, 9 inch, 4.33

jayb

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Re: My 427 SOHC Build..... Finally the time has come!
« Reply #2050 on: March 26, 2019, 08:12:10 AM »
I've never taken one apart to look, to be honest, but I am always amazed at how much oil can flow through a small orifice.  If your oil pressure suddenly drops to zero when the oil runs away from the pickup, those electric valves flow enough to keep the pressure up, in my experience.  I agree that a large orifice in the valve is better, but I don't think its absolutely necessary.  You are only providing oil to the engine for the brief time when the pickup runs dry.
Jay Brown
- 1969 Mach 1, Drag Week 2005 Winner NA/BB, 511" FE (10.60s @ 129); Drag Week 2007 Runner-Up PA/BB, 490" Supercharged FE (9.35 @ 151)
- 1964 Ford Galaxie, Drag Week 2009 Winner Modified NA (9.50s @ 143), 585" SOHC
- 1969 Shelby Clone, Drag Week 2015 Winner Modified NA (Average 8.98 @ 149), 585" SOHC

   

Nightmist66

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Re: My 427 SOHC Build..... Finally the time has come!
« Reply #2051 on: March 26, 2019, 12:51:40 PM »
I agree that a large orifice in the valve is better, but I don't think its absolutely necessary.  You are only providing oil to the engine for the brief time when the pickup runs dry.

Exactly. That is when you are most dependant on it....  ;)
Jared


66 Fairlane GT 390 .030 Over 390, Wide Ratio Top Loader, 9 inch, 4.33

cobracammer

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Re: My 427 SOHC Build..... Finally the time has come!
« Reply #2052 on: April 30, 2019, 02:16:08 PM »
Hello all.  I haven't posted in a while, but I have been busy.  I have been setting up a little machine shop in my workshop in addition to working on little things on the "Cammer Saleen"  lol.

I was working with Jay in order to "try" something to make the Saleen OEM tachometer work on the dash cluster.  Many years ago, when I read an article of someone who put a 427 SOHC in a 2005 Mustang GT, the article said that the only thing that they could not figure out (as the owner wanted it to look as stock as possible) was the Tach!  The shop he was working with ended up just mounting one of those large aftermarket tach's on the dashboard.  A few years ago, I was trying to figure out if I could make it work.  I did months of reading on Forums and internet "chat" and figured out that the Saleen dash gauges are looking for a 5V square wave signal, where as the MSD ignition box gave off a 12 volt square wave.  I reached out to a colleague at the University in the engineering department and he drafted me up a little electrical diagram to convert 12V square wave to 5V square wave.  Jay was kind enough to assist me with the part and after it arrived, I ........... put it in my end table.  Unfortunately, there was a ton of other things going on with the car that took precedence.  Fast forward about 4 years, and my interest was re-ignited.  After a little more light reading, I realized that the modern mustangs get their tach signal from a reluctor wheel inside the crank case-using a Crank Position sensor.  Luckily, as I was a bit anal retentive, I did not remove anything from the original engine wiring harness.  Not only that, but all the unused plugs were nicely marked with tags!
I reached back out to Jay looking to see if he had heard of a Ford specific (?) reluctor wheel that I could mount outside the engine (perhaps on a pulley or the dampner).  I had seen crank triggers (eg. MSD), but they did not seem to have the correct amount of teeth-(to me at least) and there really wasnt much info if they would work with a stock crank trigger.  Luckily Jay knew exactly what I was talking about and agreed to make me one that he produces.  The custom crank spacer had to be machined down to account for this new addition as well.

Now for the fun part.....  Got the reluctor wheel mounted between the crank dampner and the pulley.  Made the trip up to home depot to get a section of angle iron that I could make a mounting bracket out of (was using angle iron as it was thick and rigid and was not going to wobble or flex and allow the sensor to hit the reluctor).  After a few hours of cardboard templates, angle grinding, drilling, angle grinding some more and cleaning....  I mounted the make shift bracket on the back of the lower alternator arm.   Then, using a shop light from above, I got the OEM crank sensor mounted through an appropriately sized hole in the bracket and adjusted so I could just see a sliver of light between the end of the sensor and a tooth on the reluctor wheel.  I would be surprised if a piece of paper would fit in between....  but there was space, so no interference..... and with the bracket made of angle iron, I could not budge it a bit.

Fired the car up and OH YEAH!  Dash cluster tachometer is working!

Second story.....

Now that the car runs well after the "Car Fix" tune.  I have been taking it out just to get some miles on it.  90 degree days and the engine never gets to 200 degrees! 

The last time I took it out, I started to hear what sounded like..... and I will take this from someone who had the same issue on their Z06 corvette I read about on a forum.... someone sharpening an ice skate.  This noise only happened at 4th gear and about and from what I was experiencing, more so when I was holding speed steady.  If I was in 1st, 2nd or 3rd.... no noise.  Also, if I pushed the clutch in when and put it in neutral the noise would disappear.  This led me to believe that it was not the rear end.

OK so what could it be?  I did realize on the way home that the car- and engine have less than 100 miles on it total!  So not even really close to being broken in.

I also realized that the clutch and transmission were still smooth as butter....  hmmm  ....better do some more reading.

What I have come up with is that I am using a McLeod RST twin disc clutch.  From everything I read about them, they are AWESOME clutches....  Light pedal, tons of grip......  but super noisy!  I also read that a properly broken in clutch takes 500 miles of normal driving.  There were a few Youtube videos of Clutch reviews which I heard the same noise, so not super worried.

Jason
2005 Saleen S281 (427 SOHC 2 X 4 EFI swap), T56 Magnum XL 6 speed, 9" Currie rear with 3.89 Gears

cobracammer

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Re: My 427 SOHC Build..... Finally the time has come!
« Reply #2053 on: May 01, 2019, 02:50:04 PM »
Doing a bit more reading and it appears that some people with McLeod (or other) twin disc clutches have the noise and others do not.  There have been a few cases where someone who was experiencing the noise switched back from a 1 piece drive shaft to the stock 2 piece drive shaft on the mustang and it completely went away....  It appears that its a normal harmonic from a twin disc clutch which is resonating through the one piece drive shaft if the pinion angle is off!

I will not be switching back to a 2 piece driveshaft, but I will definitely be looking into my pinion angle.  I think from what I have been reading, the S197 Mustang required a -2 degree pinion angle (difference between the driveshaft and the rear end yolk flange.  So the example given was if your driveshaft is at -2 degrees, you want your rear end at 0 (for a total of -2).  I will test this on mine and if needed, possibly add an adjustable upper control arm to correct.  Live and learn  :0)
Jason
2005 Saleen S281 (427 SOHC 2 X 4 EFI swap), T56 Magnum XL 6 speed, 9" Currie rear with 3.89 Gears

cobracammer

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Re: My 427 SOHC Build..... Finally the time has come!
« Reply #2054 on: May 02, 2019, 10:09:23 AM »
Was able to get out and measure it today.  I get the transmission yolk at 1 degree,  driveshaft angle at 3 Degrees and the rear pinion yolk at 6 degrees.  I spent all morning reaching out to various Auto suppliers trying to get them to tell me what my ideal angle is for my application and how to determine what I have.

From what I am reading, since its stock bushings on the rear suspension, I am looking for -2 to -3 pinion angle.



Does anyone with a bit more experience know what I am looking at and what needs adjusting???
« Last Edit: May 02, 2019, 10:23:23 AM by cobracammer »
Jason
2005 Saleen S281 (427 SOHC 2 X 4 EFI swap), T56 Magnum XL 6 speed, 9" Currie rear with 3.89 Gears