My 427 SOHC Build..... Finally the time has come!

[Nightmist66]

Sounds good and a real estate agent with some taste!

[cobracammer]

Lol. Also realized there was quite a bit of P/S fluid under the car. I guess since it gets pushed back to the return tank when i turn the wheel.... But doesnt get pumped back into the steering rack ( no P/S belt installed) the reservoir overflowed. Lol

Took a clean rag and wiped the undercarriage down .... All clean now. Lol

Gremlins..... They are time consuming.

[cobracammer]

Just as a side note, I managed to track down a V belt that's 7/16" wide and 45.5" long (This will be for the Power steering pump once I move the radiator forward a little).  I have been searching and searching, and finally went back to Summit to start the search over again and it seems to be a newly added product.  Ill just store it away until I finally get the radiator moved forward.

:0)

[cobracammer]

Interesting .....

I just finished speaking with the Hot Rod shop that installed the 427 Cammer in the 2005 Mustang GT.  He was curious why I had to get a larger radiator?  LOL  He said that he ran the 1 row stock radiator but made room to use the Stock electric fan/shroud.  He said it kept the cammer plenty cool.  Is that weird?  Either that's wrong, it that's one hell of a stock fan!  lol

He also said when he moved the radiator forward to get the stock fan/shroud to fit, he only angled the bottom out (Much like what I have been talking about).  This gives you plently of room between fan motor(s) as well as pushing the hot air down under the engine rather than straight into it.

The good thing is that it should be super simple to just extend those 2 bottom tabs that the radiator rests on.  Whats curious is how he got that beast cool with that super thin 1" wide core stock radiator???

[My427stang]

Airflow

The factory electric fans from Ford are monsters.  If you have enough airflow, it doesn't take a huge radiator.

I like the idea of you moving that radiator however is most logical, it'd be better to get your PS working and have the car right so you can get some miles on it.

BTW, you should be able to buy any width and length V-belt you need if the current one doesn't work out.  The part number on the belt itself indicates both width and size.  Be sure to fix the crooked pulleys, it's important for belt retention and belt life in general.

[cobracammer]

I just did a little sleuthing.  The stock fan and shroud out of a 2005 Shelby (larger engine than a GT- 5.0 I think) moved 3,286 CFM with its stock set up.  I am currently at 3,554 with my dual spal fans.  The new radiator is a lot thicker (3 rows).....  I wonder how much more air you need to move (CFM's) in order to take into account the increased thickness?  Just thinking out loud....  wouldn't the thicker radiator bring the heat down in addition to the fans?   So thicker radiator with the same CFM rans should run cooler... not hotter right?

[MRadke]

I will bet you are moving less air with your dual spals through the thick radiator than the stock set up pulls with the one row.  You have a lot more friction loss trying to pull air through the thicker core that you have now.

[My427stang]

What's left until the next trip?

[jayb]

I will bet you are moving less air with your dual spals through the thick radiator than the stock set up pulls with the one row.  You have a lot more friction loss trying to pull air through the thicker core that you have now.

I've got a 3-1/2" core aluminum radiator in my Mach 1 (two rows of 1-3/8" wide tubes), and those Spals pull an unbelievable amount of air through it.  Like a windstorm under the hood.  Radiator thickness is not going to be a problem.

[cobracammer]

All the things mentioned are little things that can be done later. As of now, its ready to go again.

I will likely run it in the driveway a few times getting it to temp, adding coolant, watching the temp at idle.

I also want to do another oil change and inspect the filter again

I found joe gibbs break in oil 5W-30 pretty cheap locally. Ill add it just to be safe for the first few hundred miles

Try and go again this Saturday

[My427stang]

If you are delaying and watching temp to make yourself feel better, I got it

However, if you think it's going to stay running, running it in the yard is doing no favors for tuning or for break in.  Hopefully you'll trust that it won't overheat soon and get out there in it

Just for giggles, why such thin oil?  Are your clearances very tight?

[cobracammer]

i was told they dont make Joe Gibbs break in oil in 10W-30???  I read Joe Gibbs is the best you can use for the break in period?  My thought was that everything is a little tight in the beginning no?

Main clearances were between .002-.003

[My427stang]

Joe Gibbs is good, so is Brad Penn, or Valvoline Racing, all good oil.

Typically oil weight is based on bearing clearances, if you have good idle oil pressure, no worries, thin is good for drainback and quick pumping, but if it turns out to be low when hot due to generally looser performance bearing clearances, I'd run 10w40 or even a mix of 10w40 and 20w50 of the same brand.

Also keep in mind, you don't have spinning lifters that can get eaten easily with poor splash lubrication, so although you do have rockers that will like the zinc, it's likely not as critical as a pushrod engine

[cobracammer]

Hey Ross.

Yea, to be honest... that's kinda it.  I am nervous about over heating.  I think what would make me feel better is the temperature stopping at a specific temperature (at idle) with both fans on.  With a 3 row aluminum radiator and 3 big spal fans sucking....  I would feel better if it didn't go above 220 degrees sitting still. 

I will do it.....  just need to man up I guess.

In other news (and I trust Jay more than this other guy telling me), but Antons hot rod shop suggested that I put this engine at 22 degrees initial timing.  He says he puts all his engines at that due to running them on anything under race fuel.  He thought his may be why its running hot.  When I put some thought into it, it didn't make sense.  If you spark the ignition at some degrees >16 degrees Before Top Dead Center, you are compressing the fuel combustion longer (which would mean hotter no?)...  at 16 degrees BTDC, the piston is closer to the top of the cylinder when the spark ignites the compressed fuel /Air, and then quickly pushes the piston down (My thinking would be that it would cause the car to run somewhat cooler no?)

Anyway, I have been told many times to put it at 16 degrees initial with 32-34 total at 3000 RPM.... and that's where it is now  LOL  Just wanted to throw this out for discussion (as it helps me understand engine building better).  :0)

[My427stang]

Just run it, don't do that   Every engine is different and few NEED that much initial

ON EDIT - Sorry I was replying from a crappy laptop.  If you were at 4-6 BTDC the exhaust could get hot and the engine could hold a little more heat.  However, 16 is not going to make it cooler and you are likely going to have a harder time starting it, not to mention likely being more fussy on fuel. 

Has it actually boiled over since you got the big fans on?  At this point, let it idle and see how far it gets, if it doesn't boil over, let it climb, if it does get above 230 or even 240, or starts blowing out the cap (more than normal expansion), shut it down.  My guess is you are getting spooked before you see what it really does

Keep in mind though, eventually that engine should get some sort of real heat into it, all this start and stop is no good for it.  Maybe go find a tow company and talk to them, give them your route, tell them what you are doing, and then f you break down they will know you and come right out.

Again though, CHECK everything, especially seeing as you have reservations.  Make your own list of anything that can loosen or leak, suspension, oil levels, belt tensions, water levels, double check and cross them out.  At the end of you list, all that is left is a freak failure, and if you have a plan to get it home, no worries.  You cannot plan for everything

One last comment, first ride should be like your mom is in the car and she is not happy.  Drive easy, don't see what it has for power, just drive to a quiet place outside of town.  After you get most of the way home, then if you care to give it a go, fine.