Giggling like a school girl

[jayb]

My vote is to leave those carbs out in the breeze.  Much cooler, and more dangerous, than a hood scoop.  I remember the fuel spraying on the windshield 

[cjshaker]

I always loved the '70s look of a tunnel ram sticking through the hood. That's not something you see much today. It's also what I had planned for the adapter. I wonder if the NHRA has anything against it?

I think that's why guys always used the drum set-up, less weight and less rolling resistance (no residual pressure valve), but the newer lightweight disc stuff is the trick way now.

[cobracammer]

My vote is to leave those carbs out in the breeze.  Much cooler, and more dangerous, than a hood scoop.  I remember the fuel spraying on the windshield 

I was just thinking about Pushing air into a carb (Hood scoop) vs. Air flowing over the top of a carb (which would cause some suction?)...  At Speed, would the vaccum of the engine have such a pull that the air flowing over the exposed carb not pull fuel out?  As a side note....  Coming along beautifully!   

[turbohunter]

I always loved the '70s look of a tunnel ram sticking through the hood. That's not something you see much today.

Me too.

I wonder if the NHRA has anything against it?

Section 20 page 4
"Carburetor inlet must not be openly exposed. In lieu of a hood, carburetors must be equipped with velocity stacks or flash shield that covers the top, back and sides, preventing fuel from being syphoned into the airstream or blown in the drivers face."

So a scoop on top of the carbs may get the job done, thus preserving the look.

[jayb]

The velocity stacks would be period correct, and would look the coolest, IMO...

[Heo]

Stacks or a Hilborn injector type scoop
was the must have around here

[turbohunter]

Just down off the stands.
Reeeeeally like where the -1 springs put the wheel in the well.

[Nightmist66]

That does look good. 

[turbohunter]

I see yours is a tad lower.
I think mine will end up there also once there's some weight on it and it settles.

[Nightmist66]

Yes mine is a little lower, I also have the -1" you probably remember. The springs settled just a little, maybe 5/16 or 3/8". I also have the spring insulators and pinion wedge shims that contribute to a little extra drop. I don't think I would go any lower, I am comfortable with it now. The wheel rim is about 1/2" away from the wheel lip.

[turbohunter]

Yup I remember.
There is also zero weight in mine right now.

[Bolted to Floor]

I vote for velocity stacks.

The stance is looking good too.

[turbohunter]

Off to the fab shop for a role cage and connectors.
Gonna tie it all in nice and solid.
Not figuring on a halo yet but 8 or 10 points. Gonna pow wow with the guys about it.
Figure on running 10s. NHRA says "cage" but the book is kinda non specific as to what that means. Would like to spend as little as safe as I am building an entire car.
Input appreciated.

[jayb]

If you are going to run 10.0 or slower, and slower than 135 MPH, all you need is the NHRA mandated roll bar.  This is just the main hoop with  brace in the middle (parallel to the floor), two back support bars going back into the rear area of the car, and one side bar on the driver's side, from about the top of the door at the main hoop down to the floor by your feet.  The side bar can be of swing out construction.  Most people put a matching bar in on the passenger side, but it is not required.  The bar is attached to the floor pan of a unibody car by using 6" X 6" 1/8" steel plates to weld to the floor, and then the bars are welded to the plates.

[turbohunter]

Cool.
Then I'll be over built.
And I just found the page in the book. Pretty much forget the first 19 sections and hang with section 20.