Giggling like a school girl

[Nightmist66]

Looks like rubber on the rear quarter. I thought there was no engine or trans in yet, hmmm..........

[turbohunter]

LOL
You should'a seen all the rubber underneath.

[Jim Comet]

My NHRA tech inspector recommended tying the inner angled (rollover) bars into my subframe connectors. I also made sure to tie my 6 inch hoop plates into my rocker boxes. Jim

[turbohunter]

Thanks Jim
I'll document how it goes.
Planning on connecting the torque boxes, rockers, side to side, drive shaft loop and more than enough points.
I'll pay attention to added weight over what is minimum.
But I'm figuring a few extra pounds vs piece of mind is prolly the way to go.

[cjshaker]

+3 on the velocity stacks. I always consider them mandatory for a tunnel ram. That IS the '70s look

I like the idea of those triangulated pieces going to the frame connectors. That would add a LOT of lateral support at the base in the event of a roll-over. To make up for the extra weight is easy, just add more horsepower

Looking really good, Marc. And coming along pretty quickly too. I love these "members projects" threads, they're full of great ideas from different minds. They really help a person out when planning their own project.

[turbohunter]

I'm with you guys on the velocity stack deal.

Little update on the subframe/rollbar install.
Here are some pics of the initial backbone going in. The guys had to fix one of the stock cross supports as some p o had crushed it with a jack.
The backbone is 2 inch square 1/8 wall. Connects the torque boxes but the guys did something that I didn't think of. They opened up the frame and ran into it instead of just hanging it on the bottom. This makes it reeeeally clean. They cut the floor and let the 2 inch protrude up into the passenger compartment and then welded the floor to the backbone. I first saw this on Rusty Gillis' car.
They will connect to the rockers, and add a drive shaft loop. Also connecting that flimsy trans mounting to everything. The front of the rear spring mount will also be tied into the system. Joints will be webbed.
Roll bar will be triangulated. Just wanted to show you guys as it goes.
Really happy that I let the pros do this. Light years better than I could do it.

[cjshaker]

Very nice job! That's how Tin Man does his subframe connectors for Mustangs. They travel through the floorpan and tie directly into the front and rear subframes. Very clean and MUCH stronger that way. Only drawback is they protrude into the interior, but for maximum strength on a drag car, it's the best way to do it. If I didn't have to cut into my interior on my rust free Mach, I'd have put them on. I hate the other styles, they look like afterthoughts and basically just look like crap, IMO.

Keep us posted with Pics, Marc. It's great to see the ideas used for builds like this. I have enjoyed seeing Rustys build and all the little tricks he uses. Very informative from somebody who's "been there, done that".

[Nightmist66]

I second the workmanship. Looks very clean and strong! Keep at it, always interested in the updates.

[turbohunter]

More progress.
It will be nice to have a car that is solid so I can tune on it.
Really like that they webbed in the bottom of the spring mount so that it is connected not only on the top.
Also really firmed up the tranny area.
The guys are going to sheet in the trunk divide and the package tray also.

[Nightmist66]

Very, very nice! 

[turbohunter]

Thanks Jared.
Couple more just for fun.
The mustang has a very healthy (700hp) 460 in it.

[Bolted to Floor]

The cage is looking good.

[jayb]

Looks great Marc.  Any reason they chose to tie the "D" bars (the ones that angle from the rollbar cross brace down to the floor) into the trans tunnel rather than into the subframe or subframe connectors?  My NHRA tech inspector told me that's the best place to put them, and your car has a nice solid subframe connector going through the floor to weld to.

When I did the cage in my Mach 1 in 2006 I originally put the D bars to the floor, on a 6X6 plate on each side.  Tech inspector came out, shook his head, and made me take them out and tie them through the floor into the subframe connectors.  He said they used to allow the D bars to the floor, but not anymore.  He didn't make me have him out again, but he did make me send him pictures of the new installation before he would send me the chassis cert sticker.  I called and asked him about going to the trans tunnel, because it would have been easier, but he was pretty insistent that going to the subframe or subframe connectors was better.  I'd be interested to hear what your chassis guys say about that...

In any case, that car is really coming along!

[turbohunter]

Thanks Jay
I'll get with them today.

Got a quicky answer back.

"The 6 inch plates are the legal attach points.
Building a certified cage is a different process than building a cage to pass tech for bracket racing."

[turbohunter]

Talked with John a lot today.
He's happy to do what I want but for what I'm going to do with the car he said it is much more than is necessary.
If I was building an SS car that needs a certified cage that would be different.
He's very familiar with the NHRA process. He's got a boat load of Wallys to his credit (look up John Scheiss).
I like what they're doing and am going to leave it alone. After all we are doing more than is required.
I reminded myself that there is at least one lovely gentleman out there running 10s with no cage at all.
I like the idea of the D bars going to the center.
I did read my rule book and it does say that non frame cars without subframe connectors the D bars shall run to the tunnel.
Cars with subframes must be mounted to the sub frame. This seems a bit odd to me.
Anyway, it's easy to just add some D kickers to the subframe connectors if I get pegged for it.
Seems to me 9 seconds 180 is where things get detailed.