FE Power Forums
FE Power Forums => Member Projects => Topic started by: turbohunter on June 29, 2013, 11:27:21 PM
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I haven't dared to speak of it before it was in my driveway but, I finally secured a '67 Fairlane.
The PO was sad to see it go but he needed the room and it was time.
Along with the car he threw in a bunch of parts. I scored pretty well.
He needed to clear some space so I got a U1 crank, a mexican(checking) C6ME block, 3 Holley 780s, headers, multiple seats, multiple dash gauges, multiple tail lights, interior panels, and I don't even know what else.
Also a few parts that we are haggling on like the Ed cross ram.
All in all a hell of a fun day.
(http://i1220.photobucket.com/albums/dd447/turbohunter1/Fairlane/Image1-1.jpg)
(http://i1220.photobucket.com/albums/dd447/turbohunter1/Fairlane/Image3-1.jpg)
(http://i1220.photobucket.com/albums/dd447/turbohunter1/Fairlane/Image5-1.jpg)
As you can now see, it's been worked a bit but it's straight and it's all there.
So I'll get it into shape.
How 'bout that door gap.
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Kool. Love the 67 Lane.
"a mexican C6ME block"? That would be a new one. lol It will say on the block where it was cast, DIF or CF. Dearborn or Cleveland.
If one of those multiple dash guages is taking up too much space, I'm looking for the clear plastic cover, but I'll take the whole unit
if you need to lightin the load. lol
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Thought that would get a chuckle.
The guy said it was a "high nickel mexican block".
I always thought that was urban legend.
I think it's just a regular C6ME not a 428 but will check it out.
I'll rummage through the pile and see if a lens falls out.
Here's the block info
Can't find a DIF or Cleveland marking
Initial tape measure bore width is 4 1/16th (4.0625 ish).
(http://i1220.photobucket.com/albums/dd447/turbohunter1/Fairlane/Image32.jpg)
(http://i1220.photobucket.com/albums/dd447/turbohunter1/Image9-1.jpg)
(http://i1220.photobucket.com/albums/dd447/turbohunter1/Fairlane/Image29.jpg)
(http://i1220.photobucket.com/albums/dd447/turbohunter1/Fairlane/Image33.jpg)
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You're going to like that Fairlane, I've had my '66 since '97 and still love it. Don't forget the Fairlane Club www.Fairlaneclubofamerica.com. Lots of great sources for parts and tech info... If I read that VIN on the rad core support correctly, the engine code is H meaning it was built with a 390 2V...
Bruce
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You did indeed.
Thanks for the Fairlane club info. :)
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More pics o' stuff
(http://i1220.photobucket.com/albums/dd447/turbohunter1/Fairlane/Image35.jpg)
(http://i1220.photobucket.com/albums/dd447/turbohunter1/Fairlane/Image25.jpg)
(http://i1220.photobucket.com/albums/dd447/turbohunter1/Fairlane/Image37.jpg)
(http://i1220.photobucket.com/albums/dd447/turbohunter1/Fairlane/Image9-3.jpg)
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Nice score, Mark. That Edelbrock crossram intake is a great intake for a 500-550 HP street FE. Carb tuning may be a challenge, but it would be worth it to have that manifold under the hood.
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Thanks Jay
I was hoping you'd chime in on that very thing.
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Very nice find. Looks like the shock towers have been fixed to give you a bit more room. Can't see much of them in your photo, but are they the race Hooker headers?
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Nice radio delete R code style instrument panel. Did he had one of the factory dash mounted tachs in that deal?
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Very nice find. Looks like the shock towers have been fixed to give you a bit more room. Can't see much of them in your photo, but are they the race Hooker headers?
Yes, towers have been "worked on".
Not the cleanest job in the world but I'll work on that.
Headers I haven't gotten to yet because I had to work today.
But the car has been raced.
PO says the trans has been worked on also.
I'll get more info from him on that.
Nice little extra was the skinny wheels up front. Haven't had time to look them over either. Work sucks.
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Nice radio delete R code style instrument panel. Did he had one of the factory dash mounted tachs in that deal?
It's got a steering column tach laying on the dash.
But with all I'm finding it may be in there somewhere.
Did I say work sucks.
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Very nice find. Looks like the shock towers have been fixed to give you a bit more room. Can't see much of them in your photo, but are they the race Hooker headers?
I was thinking the same thing... shock towers already cut and the fiberglass hood to boot.. what a score. I love the custom Transmission support. Not sure if you are planning on going through the tranny, if not make sure that torque converter stays put so you don't dmg the front seal. I cannot tell what kind of headers those are either. But the bolt pattern suggests they have been hogged out to accommodate GT heads at some time. Center link looks to be for power steering as well. Probably removed some time ago. Keep us posted.. fellow 67 GTA 390 "H" code and Fairlaine club of America member here. :D
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I love the custom Transmission support.
Made me giggle too.
Definitely going through it.
BTW
Didjyall notice the 289 emblems on the front fenders :-)
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I love the custom Transmission support.
Made me giggle too.
Definitely going through it.
BTW
Didjyall notice the 289 emblems on the front fenders :-)
I did. But with the VIN matching an "H" code 390 and what looks to be a C6 trany I was not sure what to make of it. :o
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I did. But with the VIN matching an "H" code 390 and what looks to be a C6 trany I was not sure what to make of it. :o
I'm thinking the PO liked to mess wif yo mind.
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Looks like a solid car.
Couple of big ticket items with it also.
Buy the factory service manual. Best 20 or so bucks you can spend right now.
The next 10 grand is just for fun. ::)
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Good score! Might have a soft spot for them myself :)
Just for your interest here is what an Aussie 67 Fairlane dash looks like.
(http://i890.photobucket.com/albums/ac109/newmanandy/IMG_6028.jpg) (http://s890.photobucket.com/user/newmanandy/media/IMG_6028.jpg.html)
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Best 20 or so bucks you can spend right now.
The next 10 grand is just for fun. ::)
Roger the manual and if it's only ten grand I'll be smiling a lot.
Not that it's not a lotta dough.
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Just for your interest here is what an Aussie 67 Fairlane dash looks like.
(http://i890.photobucket.com/albums/ac109/newmanandy/IMG_6028.jpg) (http://s890.photobucket.com/user/newmanandy/media/IMG_6028.jpg.html)
That's nice, and looks sharp but I'm really pervin' on the R code panels clean lines.
BTW
Found out a little more info.
The 9 inch has 3.55s and a limited slip.
Don't know what the C6/rear gear/desired rpms will work out to yet but I do know I'll prolly throw a locker in it.
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Hmmm
This block is interesting.
I can't find the foundry mark (pic below) in any reference material.
Pulled the freeze plugs out (brass) and a 17/64 bit will not fit between the cylinders.
15/64 will.
Bores are .4.07.
(http://i1220.photobucket.com/albums/dd447/turbohunter1/Fairlane/Image9-2.jpg)
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Turbohunter, if you clean the block with a wire brush, I believe you will find its a DIF. the F is not real defined. I have run across marks that are not fully formed when the cores are formed before casting. Date codes are usally very prone to this.
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Did it.
Yeah you're right it looks like there's a ghost of the rest of the F there.
Ok off to a clean up mag and sonic check.
Since I have the crank it would be fun to make a 428 for the Fairlane but if this block doesn't measure up I'll either find something else or go down the stroker road.
(http://i1220.photobucket.com/albums/dd447/turbohunter1/Fairlane/Image4-1-1.jpg)
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Can't see much of them in your photo, but are they the race Hooker headers?
Hooker Super Comps
I updated the pic a few posts back.
Finally got a chance to dig into the pile in the car.
Found the rear floor pans are toast. Thats an easy fix.
Also an almost new ED aluminum water pump.
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I have been looking for one for my 66.
you ended up with a lot of nice stuff.
now the fun begins.
enjoy
garyv
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Thanks Gary but I'm into those clean lines of that dash.
Upon closer inspection it has a small crack in the middle of it right above the g in "lighter".
(http://i1220.photobucket.com/albums/dd447/turbohunter1/Fairlane/Image24-1.jpg)
Finally have some time to crawl around and under it.
Question for you guys.
Is this the norm for Fairlane 9 inchers?
This housing has a fill plug in the rear next to the hump as well as a fill hole on the carrier side as a standard 9 usually does.
I only thought the dimpled housings had the rear fill.
Also has tapered tubes (though its a slight taper) like Hipo mustangs did..
The more I look at that housing the stranger it looks.
(http://i1220.photobucket.com/albums/dd447/turbohunter1/Fairlane/Image3.jpg)
(http://i1220.photobucket.com/albums/dd447/turbohunter1/Fairlane/Image4.jpg)
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You made out way better than me on my 66 comet. Later on is when I found out you can't get a single part for it new or used. Really a waist of money. I can't even find good headlight rings or a core support, no trim, no door panels, not even a package shelf or carpet in the maroon color.....Jon
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Vent hose is discombooberated in this pic..... but yours looks the same as the 9" in mine.
(http://i234.photobucket.com/albums/ee6/amdscooter/IMG_3929_zps22af7964.jpg)
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You made out way better than me on my 66 comet. Later on is when I found out you can't get a single part for it new or used. Really a waist of money. I can't even find good headlight rings or a core support, no trim, no door panels, not even a package shelf or carpet in the maroon color.....Jon
I'm beginning to figure that out.
It's not like getting on the web and ordering a part, like a mustang or a truck is it.
I figure we should embrace (what else can you do) that it's tough to find parts because they're not run o' the mill cars.
Tell you one thing though. I'm going back to scavenge the POs place like a starving buzzard.
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Vent hose is discombooberated in this pic..... but yours looks the same as the 9" in mine.
(http://i234.photobucket.com/albums/ee6/amdscooter/IMG_3929_zps22af7964.jpg)
Well that's cool/interesting.
At least I know now it's not a hack job, but I had no idea this configuration existed.
Have tried to find them searching web but have not yet.
I was thinking of replacing it but since it is a factory piece I think I'll keep it and just upgrade it.
Thanks for posting that.
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Got the block and 1U crank back from QMP.
The crank mags good and verified the stroke at 3.980.
All the surfaces are good.
The block mags good.
The bores are 4.07.
Now for the hard part, the sonic check.
Everything looked good but number 1 has some .100 areas and they're on the thrust side.
So, theory time gentlemen.
As it sits now with this crank it's a 414.
With a 4.25 kit in it a 443 but I already have a nice crank.
I'm leaning towards making this a "budgetish" (yeah right) 414/415 with a good set of heads and run it.
After all I still need to learn more and if I blow it up I'm not gonna be tooooo upset (again, yeah right)
So theorize away gents.
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So, it's already .020" over and it is at about .100" in some areas? That means it probably started around .110". I think I would run the block with a minimum overbore.
The 3.98 stroke crank will be easier on the thrust sides of the bores, but not THAT much easier than the 4.25" crank. To me, the question is how much power do you want to make? If you want to stick with 400 HP or less, I'd stay with the smaller throw; if you want more, I'd go with the stroker crank. JMO...
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I think a wise man once told me, "more is good".
Smart guy.
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Deep into the part of the build that keeps the washing machine going.
Been doing a lot of leaf and garbage cleaning up in the cowl.
And got into the meat of pan replacement today.
Gonna take it slow so I don't get crazy.
Have some nice subframe connectors to install. I'm going to make up some plating to spread the load on each end.
Also thinking about a four point roll bar to tie both sides together. Or maybe do that by connecting each side under the car.
Still trying to find a decent block to build on.
(http://i1220.photobucket.com/albums/dd447/turbohunter1/Fairlane/Image6-3.jpg)
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Never ceases to amaze me how much crap ends up in there.
(http://i1220.photobucket.com/albums/dd447/turbohunter1/Fairlane/Image3-3.jpg)
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Woohoo, found a block.
Drove down to El Cajon from LA yesterday and bought a 428 C scratch.
Aug. 27 '68 date.
No casting code.
X mark in valley.
Barrels measure 4.168ish, so probably .40 over at 4.17.
Reinforcing webs.
Sonic checked and magged. Couple low spots between cylinders .87 to 94. The rest is between .206 to 150.
In the pic, do you guys know what these numbers are? Seems to me I read it somewhere but can't find my resource again.
Edit
Just drill bit tested the block.
11/64 would fit.
It is the best looking water jacket I have ever seen (granted, not as many as most of you). Very clean.
I may sonic test it again but am inclined not to worry about the "thin" spots.
BTW
It has a W above the date code can't find what that is yet.
(http://i1220.photobucket.com/albums/dd447/turbohunter1/Fairlane/Image8-3.jpg)
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My wag would be a machine shop stamping.
Probably been through a few shops over the years.
I've stamped lots of junk.
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Well since I'm waiting for things on my 445.
I thought I'd get back on the Fairlane and heave ho a bit.
Lots of rust to repair.
After rebuilding the cowl in my mustang I'm not skeered to jump into the Fairlane.
Different anatomy underneath but basically the same.
First pic is my look see hole and where I though I could make the cut. I was wrong.
Found more rust and had to take more out.
Body is supported. No movement detected. Seems to be pretty solid.
Except of course for the vent area.
The other side is not rusty at all, which is why I decided not to take the whole cowl out.
(http://i1220.photobucket.com/albums/dd447/turbohunter1/Fairlane/Image4-5.jpg)
(http://i1220.photobucket.com/albums/dd447/turbohunter1/Fairlane/Image5-5.jpg)
(http://i1220.photobucket.com/albums/dd447/turbohunter1/Fairlane/Image11-2.jpg)
(http://i1220.photobucket.com/albums/dd447/turbohunter1/Fairlane/Image9-5.jpg)
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I'm also re thinking the engine that'll go in this car.
I have a 428 that I was going to put in it.
But I live right down the street from BBM and I can afford one of those blocks.
I'd love to throw the 428 into my T bird with an EFI deal. That's my dd.
I'm in no hurry,,,,,,,obviously.
Just having fun.
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I hate rust repair, and I admire you for tackling it. As you know, I have one rust repair project that has been sitting half done for about 10 years... :-[
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I hate rust repair, and I admire you for tackling it. As you know, I have one rust repair project that has been sitting half done for about 10 years... :-[
I'd be happy to take that old nasty, rusty piece of junk off your hands ;) jk
Thanks Jay
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I'm also re thinking the engine that'll go in this car.
Uh oh! I do that WAY too much :)
Ditto on the rust. I hate the stuff. Repaired enough of it when I was younger that I try to avoid anything with it now. Still, for a Fairlane, that doesn't look too bad compared to most project cars I've seen.
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Had a great car day today.
Went over to QMP and picked up my mod motor that had been cleaned so that I can fab some motor mounts for the Mustang.
And got back on rust patrol on the Fairlane.
Since no one makes the cowl sheet metal you have to build your own.
I know it may seem crazy but I really enjoy this kind of work.
It's very "zen" if you know what I mean.
Kinda like when you're up fishing in the mountains and your kid gets a big tangle you have to fix.
No sweat 'cause it 's beautiful and you're fishing with your kid.
Anyway, I enjoy metal work and anything you have to take your time with.
Since I work out of a small garage and don't have room for a lot of fab tools I've developed my own little way to get compound bends.
Cut, bend, weld.
It also makes it good and strong since you can overlap. Since it's in the cowl, no harm no foul. ;D
(http://i1220.photobucket.com/albums/dd447/turbohunter1/Fairlane/bd27c39f-ad19-4c37-ab18-a235b29ca38a.jpg)
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Tools or not, looks better than what I could do! :)
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A big project by any yardstick...bringing this back to life. Good luck with it.
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Well it ain't elegant.
But it is strong as hell and it wont leak.
After about a hundred and fifty billion welds then using seam sealer to go over the welds I've almost got the interior of the cowl finished. Since Ford left a lot of wavy garbage in here I figured it was better to get it to work than look pretty. In that vain I left most of the welds a bit proud as not to thin out any metal by accident. It's not a Rusty Gillis job but it'll work.
We actually had a little rain and it flowed very well right out the side. :)
Only have to put in the upright cylinder part a little sanding and paint it with some sealer type stuff then get to the next layer.
(http://i1220.photobucket.com/albums/dd447/turbohunter1/Fairlane/Image1-7.jpg)
Concerning that.
There is a dimple in the backing plate under the skin which is under the wiper motor.
Does anyone know what that is for?
Mine is rusted out.
Check pic below.
BTW experimented with two different seem sealers. Por 15 and also a 3M product.
The POR 15 dries hard and is sand able. The 3M product not so much. It stays a bit gummy.
(http://i1220.photobucket.com/albums/dd447/turbohunter1/Fairlane/Image-6.jpg)
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All done underneath.
Big difference.
Thought silver might look good when looking through the grate with the car a darker blue. We'll revisit that later.
After
(http://i1220.photobucket.com/albums/dd447/turbohunter1/Fairlane/Image5-6.jpg)
Before
(http://i1220.photobucket.com/albums/dd447/turbohunter1/Fairlane/Image9-5.jpg)
On to the top side
(http://i1220.photobucket.com/albums/dd447/turbohunter1/Fairlane/Image7-8.jpg)
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Thought I'd catch you up 'cause I'm bored at work.
Almost done with the cowl. Have to finish grind some proud welds.
Don't have a closer pick.
Have the rear end torn out. Picked up my new Currie unit yesterday. Also made a trip up to Calvert to get the rear suspension.
Soon as I get some days off I'm going to finish up the welding, wire brush clean and paint the rear end. Install the rear suspension and axle. Hopefully my measurements will hold up as far as tire clearance.
Then on to the front end. Just a stock rebuild for now. Maybe bearing strut rods.
Hopefully getting it back to a roller in the next month in order to take it to the chassis shop for substructure and a roll bar/cage.
(http://i1220.photobucket.com/albums/dd447/turbohunter1/Fairlane/Image%209_1.jpg)
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Very nice job on the cowl.
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Thank you Michael that's very kind.
I know it's not pretty inside the cowl, but it works, and I learned a heck of a lot for next time.
Hopefully after a few more weeks of elbow grease I can start getting it to look like the beauty it is again.
As well as being fast ;)
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|Looking Good Marc!
The best upgrade for the front to go fast, is the roller spring perches.
And lots of power. ;D
And that's not rust, that's just a couple of pin holes.
You want to see rust. Come on out to the eastern shore. ::)
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Thanks Howie.
That makes sense.
BTW I went with the -1 inch springs in back.
I'm going to give it a try.
The guys at Calvert told me if it mocks up badly they'll change them out.
Also as far as the front goes. I called the po and he verified the front springs are stock big block springs.
My immediate thought is to cut a half coil off to begin with. The Calvert guys recommended Moroso for front springs.
Trying to keep costs down since I'm building the entire car and thought I might just go with the stock springs at first.
Easy to change.
Happy to here anyones experience with that.
Just for fun here's a pic of the new rear end.
Had it made 58 inches from wheel mounting surface to surface.
35 spline axles
4.30
3.25 bearings
Wanted a Detroit locker however they are way on back order.
As a result went with the Yukon locker. They have a great warranty, can't find any bad news about them, the Currie guys swear by them and they are supporting drag racing more these days. So why not?
(http://i1220.photobucket.com/albums/dd447/turbohunter1/Fairlane/Image%203_3.jpg)
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Hey Marc, good job on the cowl. ;) I have the Calvert split-monos with 1 inch drop on my 66. Running Mickey Thompson 255/60R15 ET street radials. As far as the fronts go, I used stock replacement big block springs and kept cutting a quarter at a time until I was satisfied with the height. The springs had been on the car for some years so they were already settled. In the end, I believe I ended up taking 3/4 of a coil off. I bought the roller spring perches and camber kit from Opentracker, 67 mustang tubular lower control arms and tubular tie rod adjusting sleeves from Global West, and KYB shocks. I also had some upper front shock mounts made from 1/4" thick flat steel plate mainly to try to save my low hanging Ed's headers on the street, but will also benefit at the track with better rise. I think you will like the Yukon unit. I had runout problems with several new carriers when setting up my new rear. I finally settled for the 31 spline Trac-Lok from Quick Performance. It looked great out of the box and set up perfectly. I have probably 700-750 miles on the unit with no complaints. Still waiting to get it to the track though. Btw, with all the roller/solid bushings in the suspension I think it actually rides smoother now. :D Having a hard time uploading pics with the file size, so a link to a couple photos below.
http://s12.photobucket.com/user/jaredaebly/media-full/Mobile%20Uploads/20140811_173048_zps9brlcgrs.jpg.html
http://s12.photobucket.com/user/jaredaebly/media-full/Mobile%20Uploads/20140811_173152_zpskvjwpzrz.jpg.html
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Thank you very much for that info.
It's nice to know my thinking is in the ball park.
Also thanks for the car pix, that tells me a lot.
BTW your car is beautiful.
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Thank you very much for that info.
It's nice to know my thinking is in the ball park.
Also thanks for the car pix, that tells me a lot.
BTW your car is beautiful.
Thanks Marc, I appreciate it! Glad to help.
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Damn Marc, that is a serious rear axle! :o
One mod you want to make now is to weld up the back of the spring perches.
They WILL collapse if given enough hook.
It may be a little late now but you could have got Currie to do it. It is an option.
I really like Currie stuff.
http://www.currieenterprises.com/cestore/productsRE.aspx?id=4295
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Good idea Howie.
Wish I'd have thought/known about that before hand.
But easy enough to do now.
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2nd on Currie. I have a 9" currie. Solid nice piece with all brackets welded at their factory
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Well after all the rust repair and a day of cleaning the under side of the car up I decided to give myself a present and do some fun stuff. So I stuck the rear suspension in. Boxed in the rear of the perches before (thanks Howie).
Oh yeah, now we're talkin'.
(http://i1220.photobucket.com/albums/dd447/turbohunter1/Image%2022_1.jpg)
(http://i1220.photobucket.com/albums/dd447/turbohunter1/Image%2024_1.jpg)
(http://i1220.photobucket.com/albums/dd447/turbohunter1/Image%2012_1.jpg)
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Excellent work Marc, that looks great! :D Are those Nitto tires? Can't wait to see the rest of the car finished. :)
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Yeah I just bought some Nittos for set up 'cause I know they ain't gonna last long once it's rollin'. ;)
BTW I had the rear end built an inch and a half shorter. There's a little light between the tire and springs on one side and just barely touching on the other. So I'll use an 1/8 inch spacer with these wheels.
Should be plenty of room on the outside.
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Yeah I just bought some Nittos for set up 'cause I know they ain't gonna last long once it's rollin'. ;)
Not with a healthy FE in front of em! Which trans are you planning on running? Will you be using the hooker super comp. headers?
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It's already got a C6.
I'm actually kind of interested in auto tranny technology for racing these days.
I'm thinking about the super comps for now.
We'll see about that.
Trying not to spend an arm and a leg to get it to the track.
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Looking Great Marc!
A well done C6 will take pretty much take all the punishment you can give it.
At a reasonable investment. :P
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Thanks Howie.
I plan on spending a fair amount on the tranny.
I've never run an auto to race before and I'm kinda into it.
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Looking good, Marc. That thing will hook!
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That thing will hook!
Hope so Jay thanks.
Another thought. You see the old drive shaft hanging there. Not gonna use it.
What's preferred these days, aluminum or chromo?
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That thing will hook!
Hope so Jay thanks.
Another thought. You see the old drive shaft hanging there. Not gonna use it.
What's preferred these days, aluminum or chromo?
So is this one getting a Performer or SP2P intake? :o
Just kidding, very nice work, need get serious on getting mine to hook, that looks like exactly what I need!
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So is this one getting a Performer or SP2P intake? :o
AAAAAAH ROTFLMAO
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Looking really good, Marc! That thing is pretty solid underneath for the cowl being so rusty. Ford wasn't real good about getting primer or paint into that cowl area though. A pretty dumb build process on their part.
The rear is the same type housing I bought from Currie years ago for my Mach. I have never had one single issue with mine since the car was originally done. The only disc option they had back then was the Explorer type, but I opted for the Torino bearing ends with the large station wagon/truck type drums. What type is that on your rear?
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They're Explorers.
But it does have Torino ends.
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Ok. Just a word of caution, those have the second set of drum shoes that act as emergency/parking brakes. It's good practice to pull those rotors off occasionally and clean that inner drum area of dust from the disc pads. If you don't they can get pretty gummy and start to rust. Then you can lose emergency brake action and it can be a real pain getting them off when needed. I've dealt with that issue numerous times. It might seem like a little bit of a pain, but it can save you some headaches down the road. About once a year or every other year would suffice, depending on how much it's driven and in what weather (although I seriously doubt it'll see much rain with those tires :) ). If it's strictly a nice weather car, you could probably get by with every 2-3 years.
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Thanks for the heads up.
It won't see to much street action.
I figured at the time I might want the e brake for the occasional jaunt though.
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Yeah, I'm a big fan of emergency brakes for ANY car...lol
Emergency brakes may not be able to stop a drag car if the brakes fail, but if they can slow you down even 20mph, that's a lot less momentum that would otherwise have to go somewhere :(
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That thing will hook!
Hope so Jay thanks.
Another thought. You see the old drive shaft hanging there. Not gonna use it.
What's preferred these days, aluminum or chromo?
I use a 57" 3 1/3" steel shaft with non grease able 1350"s. Aluminum is kool also.
It's more important to have a quality shop make it up and give it a good spin up to at least 6000 rpm for the balance.
You can get Carbon Fibre shafts, but they are out of my league.
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Yeah I thought the carbon fiber might be a bit overkill. :o
I have a real good shop close to me so I'll drop in and get'er done.
Spent all yesterday trying to finish the rust repair. Just when you think you're close you find another spot that better get fixed. >:(
Oh well, soon.
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Well, back to cleaning. This time in the front.
Ripped the front suspension out today and went after the grime.
I swear I've put a trash can full of dirt and scum into the garbage.
Found a helpful little tool to get the undercoating off.
It's the Dremel tile and wall board cutter.
Here's a vid that will give you the idea.
(http://<iframe width="420" height="315" src="https://www.youtube.com/embed/0XyRnXLT7e4" frameborder="0" allowfullscreen></iframe>)
OBTW use a breather with this thing. You WILL wear everything that comes off.
If the embed doesn't work here's the link.
LOL and it didn't.
https://youtu.be/0XyRnXLT7e4
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That does work good. Should make clean up of the drive way easier.
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That does work good. Should make clean up of the drive way easier.
Yup piece of cake.
BTW will you Fairlane guys take a look at these pieces.
When I pulled the front end apart these are what came off.
It doesn't look like stock Fairlane stuff to me.
For one, I thought the calipers should be dual piston.
(http://i1220.photobucket.com/albums/dd447/turbohunter1/Fairlane/Image%203_4.jpg)
(http://i1220.photobucket.com/albums/dd447/turbohunter1/Fairlane/Image%202_4.jpg)
(http://i1220.photobucket.com/albums/dd447/turbohunter1/Fairlane/Image%201_2.jpg)
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Think I have it figured out.
I think it's '68 stuff.
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Think I have it figured out.
I think it's '68 stuff.
Yeah, it should have had 4 piston "fixed" calipers.
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Well two days on these wheel wells and they're finally clean.
BTW ordered the Opentracker DIY bearing kits for the control arms as well as a set of roller perches.
Question for you guys. In my mind I'm thinking the Shelby (or whatever) 1 inch drop for the top a arm would also help geometry on a drag strip as well as the curves (which I'm not concerned with).
Thoughts/experiences?
(http://i1220.photobucket.com/albums/dd447/turbohunter1/Image%2026_2.jpg)
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Hey Marc, as far as the Shelby drop, maybe Jay or someone else will chime in on that one. For the strip, I don't think you would notice as much as if you were doing a road course after the drop. It does help the geometry, the factory setup is less than ideal, that's for sure. One thing I did to mine was get the "camber kit" from Opentracker to positively lock the camber setting with the supplied blocks. Super easy to install. I went with -1° for the camber, this is a good street/strip setting imo. I wish I had the money to get the upper control arm bearing kit at the time but rollerized everything else. I bought the Global West tubular lower control arms(67 mustang) that have the spherical bearing and screw in ball joint. I could not be happier with them! The fit, finish, and ride is excellent. I also got the tubular tie rod sleeves from Global West. I have the Opentracker roller spring perches as well. I also bought the roller idler arm from Opentracker to help with the manual steering. I will be putting the upper control arm kit in when I go through the motor in the future. Everything from Opentracker and Global West is top notch imo. Great job on the car so far, it looks like it's coming together nicely. ;)
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Marc: project is really coming along nicely, going to be a great ride when you get it out the door. Those pics of the front fender wells brought back some memories of several winter nights in the garage with the Cyclone a few years ago, at the end of each night I emerged looking like a coal miner and was immediately directed into a hot shower with a bar of soap by the better half.
Attached pic (I found it on FB) provided for inspiration.
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at the end of each night I emerged looking like a coal miner and was immediately directed into a hot shower with a bar of soap by the better half.
LOL :o Thanks for the laugh. And yes I was unrecognizable a few times.
My wife actually took a picture once. She got quite a kick out of how ridiculous I looked.
No I'm not posting it. :)
My Opentracker parts just showed up. Man they are nice pieces. Smooth as silk.
John the owner is a very nice gentleman and gets the order out quick.
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Marc, diggin' the prep work and can sympathize with both you and Michael on the grunge commentary. I had two sets of clothes, and one set wasn't fit to be washed with the others, they got their own special treatment. Favorite memories from such activities include questions like "you aren't going to sit down in here, right?" The car looks great, keep the updates coming.
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Marc,
The "Shelby drop" lowers the upper control arm inner pivot points (I thought it was 3/4") but have heard 1" mentioned in this forum. This mod changes the camber curve, meaning that as the suspension travels upward the camber of the tire will increase at a greater rate than stock. This was first done by Shelby on the GT 350s to enable the outside front tire tread to contact the road more evenly under hard cornering in road race applications. The stock camber curve caused the tires to be loaded more on the outside of the tread during cornering, and reduced the car's cornering capability. IMO this mod would not do much good in drag applications.
Something to check if performing this mod on your car is to make sure the upper ball joint doesn't bind before the suspension reaches "full bump" or maximum upward travel. You could check this with the spring off as you're putting the front end back together.
Hope this helps! And nice job on the Fairlane so far,
Bruce
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Thanks Bruce
I'm familiar with the drop.
What I'm curious about is, is it as good for a drag car as for a corner carver?
When the weight transfers to the rear off the line, the front suspension unloads and the top of the tires/wheels tip in. Would doing the Shelby drop give you better control in that situation. I assume yes.
However I've been accused of fixing problems that don't exist before. ;) So is it worth drilling two more holes in my car to fix a nonexistent problem.
Drag race only.
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What the Shelby drop do is turn the car from understear to overstear
Due to the changed cambercurve like bruce said
I have done that to a few Mustangs it realy change the handling
and make the car much more fun to drive
But in a drag car i cant see any plus sides...
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Hey Marc, more food for thought. I also made some flat upper shock mounts to replace the factory pyramid shaped ones. I used 1/4" steel plate. It will give you more/better rise and also limit the downward travel to save low hanging headers like mine. Plus plus. Also, if you're serious about street/strip, you can ditch the sway bar. That will help with rise also. ;)
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Already in the plans.
What a weenie little sway bar that is. :o
As far as the shock mounts I planned on making a flat set with a little kick out for attaching a cowl brace to.
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Marc,
Less negative camber using the Shelby drop in "full droop" condition at launch could be better for control; I don't know. However, you could easily measure the difference by checking camber with the upper arm in the stock location and in the Shelby drop position while you're putting the front end back together.
Bruce
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Thanks again Bruce
I plan on playing with it a bit.
With those nice bearings it'll be easy.
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Talked to John who owns Opentracker about what to look for and some tips for preparing the control arms for their bearing install.
He was very helpful.
We also talked about the one inch drop as it pertains to drag racing.
He pretty much said what I was thinking about it.
No the car doesn't turn corners, but, if your car pulls the wheels off, you are in full droop. When you touch back down you are scrubbing a bit (which equals slower time). Ok maybe not much but still not optimum.
He also talked about the rear end being out of shape on launch and not having optimum control with the front end on an out of shape touch down. Again, arguable.
Upshot is I'm doing it and being the ginny pig for all. :o
I figure as long as I'm doing it all, I may as well make it as perfect as possible. At least I won't have any what if's.
So today I got to preparing the arms for their bearing install.
For the uppers.
Tacked a 1/4x 1 1/4" fender washer in the existing bushing holes in order to use it as a guide for the hole saw.
Took the bit out of the saw and replaced with a 1/4" dowel to extend through the holes in the washers.
Came out bitchin. Now to find someone that can TIG weld.
(http://i1220.photobucket.com/albums/dd447/turbohunter1/Fairlane/Image%202_5.jpg)
(http://i1220.photobucket.com/albums/dd447/turbohunter1/Fairlane/Image%204_4.jpg)
(http://i1220.photobucket.com/albums/dd447/turbohunter1/Fairlane/Image%203_5.jpg)
The lowers are a real pain.
Their are two sizes of holes for the bushing in the lowers.
Opentracker makes the smaller size.
If you have the larger size (as I do) (and I assume Fairlanes do) then you have to take the bushing apart and use the outside cover of the bushing to fill the hole. Pain in the butt, but doable.
(http://i1220.photobucket.com/albums/dd447/turbohunter1/Fairlane/Image%209_2.jpg)
(http://i1220.photobucket.com/albums/dd447/turbohunter1/Fairlane/Image%208_3.jpg)
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Started actual engine prep today.
Grinding flashing and doing oil mods, then will drop off when crank (1U) is almost done.
Having it offset ground to a 4 inch stroke, balanced and nitrided.
Stopped by BBM and picked up a set of heads and dropped them off to begin work on them also.
Shooting for a 600hp deal and spin it to 6500-6800.
While at BBM saw one of the Colvert, Kuntz prepared heads. Holy cow they are nice.
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So what will you be shooting for, 416" or more?
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4.0x 4.180 so 440 ish
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Ok, couldn't remember what the bore was going to end up. Should motivate the car fairly well when it's done. :D
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Yeah should go well.
I'm trying to be a little conservative and make the engine live but you know how that goes when you get into it.
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Here are the control arms welded.
Have just a little clean up to do inside to slide the bearings in easily.
Got busy plug welding the firewall today. Sweet Sofia that is a pain in the ars.
I'm really getting tired of welding and grinding sheet metal on this thing.
Got a little over amped with the grinder and had to re do one of the plugs. >:(
It's ok though, all the better when it's done.
(http://i1220.photobucket.com/albums/dd447/turbohunter1/Fairlane/Image%2022.jpg)
(http://i1220.photobucket.com/albums/dd447/turbohunter1/Fairlane/Image%2021.jpg)
(http://i1220.photobucket.com/albums/dd447/turbohunter1/Fairlane/Image%2018_2.jpg)
(http://i1220.photobucket.com/albums/dd447/turbohunter1/Fairlane/Image%2017_1.jpg)
(http://i1220.photobucket.com/albums/dd447/turbohunter1/Fairlane/Image%2014_2.jpg)
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Hey Marc, I'm a little cornfused with the lower arms. I understand you had to re-use the outer shell of the old bushings to allow the new bearing sleeve o.d. to fit well into it. However, it appears the bearing sleeve is only tack welded in a couple of spots in the center. Is that correct? I am thinking if that were the case, you would need to weld around the outsides of the old bushing sleeves where the bearing sleeve meets it. I see a weld on each side, but it appears it only holds the old bushing sleeve in and there is a parting line from that weld to the o.d. of the bearing sleeve(like pic #1 seems to show clearly). If that bearing sleeve needs to stay stationary (and I assume it does), then I can't really see how the couple tack welds will hold them securely.
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Sharp eyes.
What we ended up doing was making a new outside sleeve instead of using the bushing outer.
That gave us better metal to weld to and any adjustment we needed.
The fit to the bearing housing is a press fit along with three rosette welds, not tacks. So a 3/8 hole is drilled in the outer casing to weld to the bearing "race". It's press fit, welded then the outside casing is perimeter welded to the arm.
That baby ain't going anywhere.
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A little less cornfused now. ;D What I should have said was plug weld instead of tack, poor wording on my part. Well, I think they look good Marc, nice job on those. I wasn't sure looking at the lowers, if you super cleaned the old bushing shells and cut the flange off or what, but that makes sense. Nice progress, keep it up! :D
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"Less confused", I'll help if I can.
Ask anything.
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"Less confused", I'll help if I can.
Yeah, just playing with wording on that, lol. Thanks for the updates on the car, looking forward to seeing it finished up.
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looking forward to seeing it finished up.
You and me both ;)
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I like how you came up with the solution for keeping all your holesaw cuts centered. Your machinists mind always amazes me with simple but great ideas. Those arms really turned out nice, and now you've got me thinking about doing mine to go with my roller spring perches when I install them.
Very nice work, Marc.
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Thanks Doug
I don't know about "machinists mind", I just fumble along. Those guys that can make somethin' out of nothin' are my heroes. I'm sure your's also.
Check this out. I've got one side pretty much together. I moves really nice. The ball joints aren't tightened down yet so you hear them clicking. Had to grind a little bit on the inside of the top bearing cases as they rubbed a bit on the tower. But after that, smooth sailing.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=0EaxRYCWfmc
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That looks great Marc, far better than the factory camber curve. ;)
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That works REALLY smooth! I looked back, but didn't see what type of strut rods you were using. They are obviously not the rubber bushing type, but what brand did you use?
And just a thought, but I've watched a lot of slo-mo wheelie shots of these older cars and I'm always amazed at how much wheel deflection there is on touch down! They wobble like crazy! I always figured that HAD to be really hard on parts. I figured half of that deflection was caused by rubber bushings, but also know how much those lower control arms can flex when stressed. They twist a LOT from the area where the strut rod is bolted on, out to the ball joint. I know weight on the nose is a really bad thing for a drag car, but boxing those lower control arms would have to help a bunch in controlling that twist. Just a thought to consider.
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but boxing those lower control arms would have to help a bunch in controlling that twist. Just a thought to consider.
I did think about that also as Opentracker offers some pre cut panels for boxing.
I talked to one of the local car builders about it and he was telling me about SS cars he has done that do huge wheelies and no problem.
I wonder if those cars you talk about have optimized their geometry. Might be part of their problem. That is part of what John at Opentracker was talking to me about. That deflection you talk about has to cost time.
I do agree with you, it's something to keep an eye on.
Of course I haven't hung anything out yet so........... ::)
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Forgot to answer your strut rod question.
Ordered it through Opentracker but they just source it from a company called Street or track.
streetortrack.com
(http://i1220.photobucket.com/albums/dd447/turbohunter1/Fairlane/Image%202_6.jpg)
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Lots of good work going on there.. keep us updated! I just replaced the lower control arms on mine last weekend. Photo of old PST vs new Moog replacement below. The part on the right was purchased from PST (poly graphite bushing) about 19 years ago, as you can see the bushing did not fare very well. Less than 10k miles on the setup, pretty disappointed. With your bushings sleeved and tacked in place you should not have this issue at all.
(http://i234.photobucket.com/albums/ee6/amdscooter/IMG_5685_zpshctsxvbs.jpg) (http://s234.photobucket.com/user/amdscooter/media/IMG_5685_zpshctsxvbs.jpg.html)
(http://i234.photobucket.com/albums/ee6/amdscooter/IMG_5686_zpsblkvdqlz.jpg) (http://s234.photobucket.com/user/amdscooter/media/IMG_5686_zpsblkvdqlz.jpg.html)
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I be interested in one of the holly's if willing to part with!!!!!!! :)
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Hi 6t9 and welcome to the forum.
I'm not quite following you about the carbs.
If you just read the whole thread, then I assume you're talking about the carbs I got with the car.
If so that was two years ago and are long repurposed. One is on my pick up. :)
Cheers
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The Moog lower arms are nice parts; I replaced mine about 6 months ago. Bought them from Rock Auto.
Bruce
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The Moog lower arms are nice parts; I replaced mine about 6 months ago. Bought them from Rock Auto.
Bruce
Got mine from Rock Auto as well. The fit and finish on the Moog parts were a pleasant surprise, part bolted right in. I cannot believe how badly the PST part crapped it's pants with so few miles and just street driving. :P
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Marc, thanks for that link...I think...lol
They have some interesting and neat stuff. The kind of stuff that lightens wallets pretty quickly :o ;)
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Marc, thanks for that link...I think...lol
They have some interesting and neat stuff. The kind of stuff that lightens wallets pretty quickly :o ;)
You aren't kidding, those are expensive! On Streetortrack.com, in the video, it looks like they left the strut rod somewhat loose for a better sales pitch. ::) The bushings should have some compression in them when installed, and those practically had a gap between them. It does get me thinking how much movement actually takes place in them though. Marc, please let us know how the ride is, I am curious if it will stiffen/ harshen the ride quality. Here is a more "cost effective" alternative to Street or Track. http://www.fordmuscleforums.com/suspension-articles/480549-adjustable-strut-rods.html Not trying to put them down, they look excellent, I would probably just make my own for cost reasons.
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LOL
I agree with you guys they are very proud of their stuff. Whew. :o
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Oh I wasn't complaining about their prices. That stuff is just naturally pricey. I was just giving you a hard time about showing me how to spend more money!..lol
I seriously considered going the full roller route on my car, but had major concerns about it getting to bone rattling on the street. It's hard to imagine a front suspension with NO rubber shock absorbing action. Obviously that's not a concern on your car since it is for track use (tracks typically don't have potholes and railroad tracks ;)), but it would be interesting to ride in a car with a full rollerized front end, just to compare.
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The old Fairlane has so many roller bearings and hard bushings throughout pretty much everything.
Not much rubber left. Manual everything.
Suspension, engine, trans and rear end.
But it always feels tight.
The car is a noisy old thing and you feel everything that is happening. ALL THE TIME.
I love it. Not for the I need power steering crowd. ;)
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I seriously considered going the full roller route on my car, but had major concerns about it getting to bone rattling on the street. It's hard to imagine a front suspension with NO rubber shock absorbing action. Obviously that's not a concern on your car since it is for track use (tracks typically don't have potholes and railroad tracks ;)), but it would be interesting to ride in a car with a full rollerized front end, just to compare.
Yeah, I hope Marc can give us the feedback on the ride quality. The only thing I didn't rollerize on mine was the upper control arms and the strut rods. Ran out of money. ::) On the to-do list yet. I also ditched the sway bar. I am surprised with the roller/solid joints, how much more free it moves. The ride quality actually improved on mine. :D Pleasant surprise for sure!
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I will be sure to give you guys the scoop.
I'll drive it around my neighborhood (I've got a few pot holes around ;D ).
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I love it. Not for the I need power steering crowd. ;)
Hmm, I hate power anything (except sometimes brakes). Even took the power steering off my Mach 1. :)
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Oh I wasn't complaining about their prices. That stuff is just naturally pricey. I was just giving you a hard time about showing me how to spend more money!..lol
Hah
I don't think any of us need help with that when it comes to our cars and trucks. ;)
You know speaking of the price of things, I figured I'd save a little money and do the DIY kit for these control arms.
Now that I'm done I know why they cost what they do.
If you have the time do it yourself.
If you don't have the time, you can be sure that you are not wasting money by buying the completed pieces.
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I love it. Not for the I need power steering crowd. ;)
Hmm, I hate power anything (except sometimes brakes). Even took the power steering off my Mach 1. :)
Yep. Don't you know that is a horsepower robber? ;) Let's see, more power or convenience? I think we know which usually prevails. ;D I won't get started on a/c either.
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Woohoo
Fairlane is going in for it's roll cage and subframe connection next week.
So I had to get the suspension done and ready to roll.
Tried to save money by going with the stock front brake stuff on the car, but have to say I really don't dig the weight and all the clips these things have. That may be one of the first upgrades after it's running. Oh well it's done.
Heads up for folks. Had to clearance the explorer rear brake calipers from the wheels I have. They are Centerline Qualifiers.
OBTW ended up cutting half a coil off the stock big block springs. Figuring on starting easy as I have the Shelby drop coupled with it.
(http://i1220.photobucket.com/albums/dd447/turbohunter1/Fairlane/Image%204_5.jpg)
(http://i1220.photobucket.com/albums/dd447/turbohunter1/Fairlane/Image%202_7.jpg)
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You are really coming along with the car.
FYI, those are 68 and later fronts.
67 would have been the 4 piston.
Still heavy stuff, but lots of bite.
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Thanks Howie, yeah figured out the '68 when I went to the parts store for new stuff.
I'm curious if it was a late '67 that got early '68 stuff.
Another OBTW.
Motor work has started.
Took my 1U crank in for some work ( offset grind for 4 inch stroke and nitriding) and also my heads and Jay's adapter for porting.
The basics are I'm going to run my 428 and try not to kill it right away so ...
4 x 4.180
BBM heads
Jays adapter
Weiand tunnel ram
C6 manual and rollered
4.30 rear gears
Gonna try and keep the rpms to the 6s and the horsepower around 600-650.
TRYING to be conservative.
But I always wanted a tunnel ram deal.
When I was a kid that was the ultimate. :)
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Which hood are you planning on using? Progress looks great. :)
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Ahh, good question.
I have a stock flat steel hood that cam with the car.
I'll run that one with a big ole hole in it.
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Ah, ok. A scoop or not?
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Dunno yet
Kinda having a romantic notion of carbs hangin' out the hood. :)
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Either way would look good. ;)
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My vote is to leave those carbs out in the breeze. Much cooler, and more dangerous, than a hood scoop. I remember the fuel spraying on the windshield 8) 8) :o
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I always loved the '70s look of a tunnel ram sticking through the hood. That's not something you see much today. It's also what I had planned for the adapter. I wonder if the NHRA has anything against it?
I think that's why guys always used the drum set-up, less weight and less rolling resistance (no residual pressure valve), but the newer lightweight disc stuff is the trick way now.
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My vote is to leave those carbs out in the breeze. Much cooler, and more dangerous, than a hood scoop. I remember the fuel spraying on the windshield 8) 8) :o
I was just thinking about Pushing air into a carb (Hood scoop) vs. Air flowing over the top of a carb (which would cause some suction?)... At Speed, would the vaccum of the engine have such a pull that the air flowing over the exposed carb not pull fuel out? As a side note.... Coming along beautifully! 8)
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I always loved the '70s look of a tunnel ram sticking through the hood. That's not something you see much today.
Me too.
I wonder if the NHRA has anything against it?
Section 20 page 4
"Carburetor inlet must not be openly exposed. In lieu of a hood, carburetors must be equipped with velocity stacks or flash shield that covers the top, back and sides, preventing fuel from being syphoned into the airstream or blown in the drivers face."
So a scoop on top of the carbs may get the job done, thus preserving the look.
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The velocity stacks would be period correct, and would look the coolest, IMO...
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Stacks or a Hilborn injector type scoop 8) 8)
was the must have around here
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Just down off the stands.
Reeeeeally like where the -1 springs put the wheel in the well.
(http://i1220.photobucket.com/albums/dd447/turbohunter1/Fairlane/Image%205_4.jpg)
(http://i1220.photobucket.com/albums/dd447/turbohunter1/Fairlane/Image%206_4.jpg)
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That does look good. :)
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I see yours is a tad lower.
I think mine will end up there also once there's some weight on it and it settles.
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Yes mine is a little lower, I also have the -1" you probably remember. The springs settled just a little, maybe 5/16 or 3/8". I also have the spring insulators and pinion wedge shims that contribute to a little extra drop. I don't think I would go any lower, I am comfortable with it now. The wheel rim is about 1/2" away from the wheel lip.
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Yup I remember.
There is also zero weight in mine right now. :)
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I vote for velocity stacks.
The stance is looking good too.
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Off to the fab shop for a role cage and connectors.
Gonna tie it all in nice and solid.
Not figuring on a halo yet but 8 or 10 points. Gonna pow wow with the guys about it.
Figure on running 10s. NHRA says "cage" but the book is kinda non specific as to what that means. Would like to spend as little as safe as I am building an entire car.
Input appreciated.
(http://i1220.photobucket.com/albums/dd447/turbohunter1/Fairlane/Image%2012_3.jpg)
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If you are going to run 10.0 or slower, and slower than 135 MPH, all you need is the NHRA mandated roll bar. This is just the main hoop with brace in the middle (parallel to the floor), two back support bars going back into the rear area of the car, and one side bar on the driver's side, from about the top of the door at the main hoop down to the floor by your feet. The side bar can be of swing out construction. Most people put a matching bar in on the passenger side, but it is not required. The bar is attached to the floor pan of a unibody car by using 6" X 6" 1/8" steel plates to weld to the floor, and then the bars are welded to the plates.
(http://fepower.net/Photos/Posts/Rollbar.JPG)
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Cool.
Then I'll be over built.
And I just found the page in the book. Pretty much forget the first 19 sections and hang with section 20.
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(http://i1220.photobucket.com/albums/dd447/turbohunter1/Fairlane/Image%2012_3.jpg)
Looks like rubber on the rear quarter. I thought there was no engine or trans in yet, hmmm..........
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LOL
You should'a seen all the rubber underneath. ;)
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My NHRA tech inspector recommended tying the inner angled (rollover) bars into my subframe connectors. I also made sure to tie my 6 inch hoop plates into my rocker boxes. Jim
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Thanks Jim
I'll document how it goes.
Planning on connecting the torque boxes, rockers, side to side, drive shaft loop and more than enough points.
I'll pay attention to added weight over what is minimum.
But I'm figuring a few extra pounds vs piece of mind is prolly the way to go.
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+3 on the velocity stacks. I always consider them mandatory for a tunnel ram. That IS the '70s look :)
I like the idea of those triangulated pieces going to the frame connectors. That would add a LOT of lateral support at the base in the event of a roll-over. To make up for the extra weight is easy, just add more horsepower ;D
Looking really good, Marc. And coming along pretty quickly too. I love these "members projects" threads, they're full of great ideas from different minds. They really help a person out when planning their own project.
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I'm with you guys on the velocity stack deal.
Little update on the subframe/rollbar install.
Here are some pics of the initial backbone going in. The guys had to fix one of the stock cross supports as some p o had crushed it with a jack.
The backbone is 2 inch square 1/8 wall. Connects the torque boxes but the guys did something that I didn't think of. They opened up the frame and ran into it instead of just hanging it on the bottom. This makes it reeeeally clean. They cut the floor and let the 2 inch protrude up into the passenger compartment and then welded the floor to the backbone. I first saw this on Rusty Gillis' car.
They will connect to the rockers, and add a drive shaft loop. Also connecting that flimsy trans mounting to everything. The front of the rear spring mount will also be tied into the system. Joints will be webbed.
Roll bar will be triangulated. Just wanted to show you guys as it goes.
Really happy that I let the pros do this. Light years better than I could do it.
(http://i1220.photobucket.com/albums/dd447/turbohunter1/Fairlane/Image%204_6.jpg)
(http://i1220.photobucket.com/albums/dd447/turbohunter1/Fairlane/Image%206_5.jpg)
(http://i1220.photobucket.com/albums/dd447/turbohunter1/Fairlane/Image_7.jpg)
(http://i1220.photobucket.com/albums/dd447/turbohunter1/Fairlane/Image%201_6.jpg)
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Very nice job! That's how Tin Man does his subframe connectors for Mustangs. They travel through the floorpan and tie directly into the front and rear subframes. Very clean and MUCH stronger that way. Only drawback is they protrude into the interior, but for maximum strength on a drag car, it's the best way to do it. If I didn't have to cut into my interior on my rust free Mach, I'd have put them on. I hate the other styles, they look like afterthoughts and basically just look like crap, IMO.
Keep us posted with Pics, Marc. It's great to see the ideas used for builds like this. I have enjoyed seeing Rustys build and all the little tricks he uses. Very informative from somebody who's "been there, done that".
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I second the workmanship. Looks very clean and strong! Keep at it, always interested in the updates. ;)
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More progress.
It will be nice to have a car that is solid so I can tune on it.
Really like that they webbed in the bottom of the spring mount so that it is connected not only on the top.
Also really firmed up the tranny area.
The guys are going to sheet in the trunk divide and the package tray also.
(http://i1220.photobucket.com/albums/dd447/turbohunter1/Fairlane/Image%203_8.jpg)
(http://i1220.photobucket.com/albums/dd447/turbohunter1/Fairlane/Image%2014_3.jpg)
(http://i1220.photobucket.com/albums/dd447/turbohunter1/Fairlane/Image%2016_3.jpg)
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Very, very nice! :)
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Thanks Jared.
Couple more just for fun.
The mustang has a very healthy (700hp) 460 in it.
(http://i1220.photobucket.com/albums/dd447/turbohunter1/Fairlane/Image%209_4.jpg)
(http://i1220.photobucket.com/albums/dd447/turbohunter1/Fairlane/Image%208_5.jpg)
(http://i1220.photobucket.com/albums/dd447/turbohunter1/Fairlane/Image%201_7.jpg)
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The cage is looking good.
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Looks great Marc. Any reason they chose to tie the "D" bars (the ones that angle from the rollbar cross brace down to the floor) into the trans tunnel rather than into the subframe or subframe connectors? My NHRA tech inspector told me that's the best place to put them, and your car has a nice solid subframe connector going through the floor to weld to.
When I did the cage in my Mach 1 in 2006 I originally put the D bars to the floor, on a 6X6 plate on each side. Tech inspector came out, shook his head, and made me take them out and tie them through the floor into the subframe connectors. He said they used to allow the D bars to the floor, but not anymore. He didn't make me have him out again, but he did make me send him pictures of the new installation before he would send me the chassis cert sticker. I called and asked him about going to the trans tunnel, because it would have been easier, but he was pretty insistent that going to the subframe or subframe connectors was better. I'd be interested to hear what your chassis guys say about that...
In any case, that car is really coming along!
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Thanks Jay
I'll get with them today.
Got a quicky answer back.
"The 6 inch plates are the legal attach points.
Building a certified cage is a different process than building a cage to pass tech for bracket racing."
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Talked with John a lot today.
He's happy to do what I want but for what I'm going to do with the car he said it is much more than is necessary.
If I was building an SS car that needs a certified cage that would be different.
He's very familiar with the NHRA process. He's got a boat load of Wallys to his credit (look up John Scheiss).
I like what they're doing and am going to leave it alone. After all we are doing more than is required.
I reminded myself that there is at least one lovely gentleman out there running 10s with no cage at all.
I like the idea of the D bars going to the center.
I did read my rule book and it does say that non frame cars without subframe connectors the D bars shall run to the tunnel.
Cars with subframes must be mounted to the sub frame. This seems a bit odd to me.
Anyway, it's easy to just add some D kickers to the subframe connectors if I get pegged for it.
Seems to me 9 seconds 180 is where things get detailed.
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Ok, the first phase of the body strengthening and roll bar is done.
The whole idea was to support the entire car with as little cage as possible.
I like that the frame is supported at every suspension attach point as well as through the middle, making a solid system.
I dig how the guys included front end support without going to a halo bar by adding the bars at the toe boards. These attach directly to the subframe outriggers that tie the rockers to the subframe.
Driveshaft loop will have a bolt in bottom once we see how it has to be shaped.
Also thought that might be a good idea to add support to the tunnel under the D bars if necessary ( could be overkill ).
After I get the tranny and a block set in the car on the regular motor mounts we will add some front bars to the plates you see on the firewall to attach motor plates to, tying the support system together.
(http://i1220.photobucket.com/albums/dd447/turbohunter1/Fairlane/Image%2012_5.jpg)
(http://i1220.photobucket.com/albums/dd447/turbohunter1/Fairlane/Image%2016_4.jpg)
(http://i1220.photobucket.com/albums/dd447/turbohunter1/Fairlane/Image%2014_4.jpg)
(http://i1220.photobucket.com/albums/dd447/turbohunter1/Fairlane/Image%2011_4.jpg)
(http://i1220.photobucket.com/albums/dd447/turbohunter1/Fairlane/Image%2010_4.jpg)
(http://i1220.photobucket.com/albums/dd447/turbohunter1/Fairlane/Image%208_5.jpg)
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Looks great Marc!
That forward bar looks like it is going to take up the parking brake spot.
Other plans?
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That's what the parking pawl is for. :P
It does look very nice!
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Looks great Marc!
That forward bar looks like it is going to take up the parking brake spot.
Other plans?
Yes sir.
I figured I'd go the Lokar hand brake way. I'm going to have my nephew cut me out a console out of aluminum on the water jet to mount the shifter and whatever accessory switches and stuff I need to so will incorporate into that.
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Wanted to buy some engine parts as the time is approaching.
Was going to ask y'all about what oil pans work well on Fairlanes. But in thinking about that I needed to know if in fact I am going to use my free (thus very desirable) set of Hooker supercomps for my build. This got me thinking about what I need for my engine to breath at it's optimum level. So, did a little measuring and math (very difficult on a holiday).
ID of the S comps are 1.91 so that gives me a Primary Pipe Area of 2.8652 (3.1416x.955x.955)
These values get me to a peak torque value of 4594.76 (Peak Torque rpm=PPAx88,200/one cylinder 55)
My engine is a 440 (428 block) that will have a tunnel ram.
Going to figure spinning it to 6,500 to 6,800. I realize I'm prolly in the low to middle range of the intake (advertised 3,200 to 9,000).
My question is, do I have enough header for my engine?
I'm not trying to spin the heck out of this motor. So I'm thinking I'm Ok.
It seems a little low but in the spirit of this motor (staying together and just having fun bracket racing) Ok.
Off to the garage I go. :)
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Marc, send me all the info for your car by email to include bore, stroke, cam timing, valve size, heads, peak HP RPM, etc and I will post back what Pipemax says. I do expect you will be in the window that it recommends
Also, I have a buddy with a brand new Moroso T-pan, he waved off his project and I am slowly using or selling off his parts. If you need want it, I can get a price, it'll be fair. Let me know in the email as well. It's a standard front sump T-pan that most guys use but I can chase down part numbers
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Thanks Ross
Email coming
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Marc,
I assumed a 6800 rpm peak to show the largest potential recommendation, as well as a 260/270 degree cam with .680 lift. I chose 110 LSA on 106 to keep a middle of the road overlap for a big cam. I also used 13:1 compression based on your email, the 4.18 x 4.00 bore and stroke and an 11/32 valve stem using your 2.20 / 1.67 valve sizes with an open race header
Note that this program uses OD and based-off .0625 inch Pipe thickness, NOT ID, so you are still in the ballpark IMHO
I think Brent, Barry, Blair, or Jay would be better suited for final cam choice, but I would guess that this is close enough to see what Pipemax thinks you need for a primary pipe.
This is a full cut and paste, but I bolted some info I think you'd be looking for
Hope this helps, remember, it's just a computer simulation, supposedly a good one though
Cylinder Ignition Interval = 90 degrees 6800 RPM Hertz frequency = 56.7 Hz
Target EGT= 1284.8 degrees F at end of 4 second 600 RPM/Sec Dyno accel. test
439.129 CID Exhaust System operating RPM Range from 4800 to 7300 RPM
--- Single Primary Pipe Specs --- ( Low to Mid-Range RPM Torque and HP )
Diameter= 1.723 to 1.848 Total Length= 32.0 to 34.9 inches long
--- 2-Step Primary Pipe Specs --- ( Low to Mid-Range RPM Torque and HP )
1st Step Dia. inches= 1.723 Length= 16.0 to 17.4
2nd Step Dia. inches= 1.848 Length= 16.0 to 17.4
--- 3-Step Primary Pipe Specs --- ( Low to Mid-Range Torque and Hi RPM HP )
1st Step Dia. inches= 1.723 Length= 16.0 to 17.4
2nd Step Dia. inches= 1.848 Length= 8.0 to 8.7
3rd Step Dia. inches= 1.973 Length= 8.0 to 8.7
--- Single Primary Pipe Specs --- ( Mid-Range TQ to Higher RPM Horsepower )
Diameter= 1.923 to 2.048 Total Length= 32.0 to 34.9 inches long
--- 2-Step Primary Pipe Specs --- ( Mid-Range TQ to Higher RPM Horsepower )
1st Step Dia. inches= 1.923 Length= 10.7 to 12.1
2nd Step Dia. inches= 2.048 Length= 21.3 to 22.8
--- 3-Step Primary Pipe Specs --- ( Higher RPM Horsepower, possible TQ loss )
1st Step Dia. inches= 1.923 Length= 10.7 to 12.1
2nd Step Dia. inches= 2.048 Length= 10.7 to 11.4
3rd Step Dia. inches= 2.173 Length= 10.7 to 11.4
--- Conventional Straight Tube Collector Specs ---
( TQ ) Diameter= 3.204 to 3.454 Best Length= 17.6 and also 35.1 inches
( HP ) Diameter= 3.454 to 3.954 Best Length= 17.6 and also 8.8 inches
--- Megaphone Collector Specs ---( Diffuser or Diverging Cone Shape )---
( TQ ) Diameter= 2.454 taper to 3.454 Best Length= 17.6 or 35.1 inches
( HP ) Diameter= 2.704 taper to 3.704 Best Length= 17.6 or 35.1 inches
Best HP/TQ Tuned Collector Lengths= 17.6 , 35.1 , 70.3 , 140.5 inches long
Worst HP/TQ Loss Collector Lengths= 26.3 , 52.7 , 105.4 , 210.8 inches long
Note-> all Pipe Diameters are OD and based-off .0625 inch Pipe thickness
---- Primary Pipe's Harmonics ----
1st Harmonic = 140.3 inches long ... typically never used
2nd Harmonic = 53.3 inches long ... longest recommended
3rd Harmonic = 32.0 inches long ... highly recommended , best Torque Curve
4th Harmonic = 22.4 inches long ... shortest recommended
5th Harmonic = 16.9 inches long ... typically never used
6th Harmonic = 13.3 inches long ... typically never used
7th Harmonic = 10.8 inches long ... typically never used
8th Harmonic = 9.0 inches long ... typically never used
---- Collector's Harmonics (includes Intermediate, Muffler , TailPipe) ----
1st Harmonic = 140.5 inches long ... longest with Mufflers and TailPipes
2nd Harmonic = 70.3 inches long ... longest recommended with Mufflers
3rd Harmonic = 35.1 inches long ... more bottom-end Torque
4th Harmonic = 17.6 inches long ... highly recommended , best Torque Curve
5th Harmonic = 8.8 inches long ... reduced Torque , more top-end HP sometimes
6th Harmonic = 4.4 inches long ... reduced Torque , not recommended
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Great
Thanks Ross
So I'm in the ballpark with the headers. Since they were free I think they're perfect ::)
Actually your cam recommendations are what I've been assuming was about right. But I have nowhere near the experience with that you and the other guys do.
Just for you guys to digest
Engine info is in Ross' post.
That will be coupled to a C6 rollerized, manual body, 4000 rpm converter.
4.30 rear end 29 inch tires.
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I'm getting the Fairlane ready for paint so I'm finishing up the damage repair.
Along with rust damage the op hogged out the dash for a big ole radio of some sort.
I figured at first on just repairing the top that he tore out but ended up thinking it would be a nice place to put all my system switches for it's new life on the track. So I made a plate to fill in the entire hole, figuring if I ever need to I can cut a new radio hole (not likely) :).
What really hacked me off is he cut into a curve in the metal so it's careful sledding.
Part of the reason for this post is a problem solution.
As many of you guys know, welding thin sheet metal can be a real pita. My problem with it is not the welding part, it's the grinding. I'm always taking off to much material with my angle grinder and getting the existing metal to thin to weld. Part of the problem is I have a very small garage and don't have the room for a nice air system. Most of you watch car shows and see the cool tools they have like those small and very maneuverable high rpm hand held grinders. They are great for this work. Since I don't have room for a good air system I can't use those and have to find something that runs on AC.
So I figured a Rotozip would fit the bill as they are high rpm and can take all kinds of bits.
It's not quite as maneuverable as the air stuff but it does a darn good job. You can get small spot and only take the weld off instead of the surrounding metal.
(http://i1220.photobucket.com/albums/dd447/turbohunter1/63d60589-7f3f-440f-b787-1f362f2af430.jpg)
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That's a good solution, Marc, Rotozip tools are very handy indeed.
One advantage to not using air is you don't have to deal with the compressor. Mine has been giving me fits for the last year, and I'm going to need to spring for a new one soon :(
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One advantage to not using air is you don't have to deal with the compressor. Mine has been giving me fits for the last year, and I'm going to need to spring for a new one soon :(
Yeah I guess there's good and bad to every sitch. ???
I just wish someone would figure out how to make a nice small high speed electric grinder.
I swear Ford must have used 22 gauge in the dash. It's just so thin. Welds had to be plenty cold. And the grinding had to be almost artistic.
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Marc,
Funny about your radio hole; the radio on my '66 is mounted about 4 inches above where your roto-zip is held in the picture. It's mounted within the large bezel that also contains the speedo, fuel gage, clock, etc. As for sanding / grinding thin materials, I use an electric drill with a 4" sanding disk mounted on a rubber backing disk. I bought the sanding disks at Northern Tool which probably has a few stores there in SoCal. Agree that a nice 90 degree electric tool would be helpful in a lot of situations!
Project is looking better all the time!
Bruce
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Thanks Bruce.
We're getting there.
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The spot where your radio hole is (or was) is where my main A/C vent is! ;D
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I have a Electric hs grinder about the size
beer bottle. Made by Flex, I use a Carbide tip
on that to grind down welds on hard to reach
places.
I use mostly Gas or TIG to weld sheetmetal.
And use a 6 inch sanding disc on rubber backing
in a low rpm anglegrinder to grind those and
leadwork,To remove paint and bondo.
For MIG welds i use a 4 inch flapdisk shaped like a....
"flower" so you see "through" the spinning disk.
On a regular small angle grinder with 8-10 tousands rpm something
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The spot where your radio hole is (or was) is where my main A/C vent is! ;D
Interesting.
This car has an R dash bezel (even though it's a H car), so no clock or radio in the bezel.
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I put the radio/clock delete in mine. I have trim where your hole in the dash is.
(http://i12.photobucket.com/albums/a232/jaredaebly/Fairlane%20interior_zpsu3i8z8ju.jpg) (http://s12.photobucket.com/user/jaredaebly/media/Fairlane%20interior_zpsu3i8z8ju.jpg.html)
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Let it be known that I am, after two years, finished with rust repair.
Hallelujah. 8)
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Congrats
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Thanks John
I know it's hardly worth a post but it's a big deal to me.
Have been doing the body work after finishing the rust repair.
What a great change of pace. I actually am having a good time making it nice and flat.
Getting frighteningly close to paint. :)
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Are you kidding? After the rust repair that you've done, I think I'd be having a party and inviting all my friends over! Of course that leads to my arch nemesis....sanding. Then sanding some more. Then of course you'll have to do some more sanding. THEN, after that's all over with....wet sanding. Then more wet sanding. ::)
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Hah yeah.
I've been getting my shoulders back in shape this weekend.
The guys at the paint supply store down the street are my new best friends.
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Alright, time for a little update.
As most of you know I've been balls to the wall on the Mustang. Well I finished the suspension and decided to take a couple relaxing days off and work on the Fairlane. Was getting sick of cutting/grinding/bending/welding so she and I needed a little separation. ;)
As far as that last post on getting the Fairlane ready for paint, well, it is but I'm moving it behind the Mustang as I have everything for the Mustang and need to still acquire Fairlane parts. Also the engine build on the Mustang will be more straight forward and again I have everything.
So I spent the last two days in a chair looking into the trunk and figuring out how I want to do the fuel and electric systems. Then go buy parts to install, install them then sit and figure the next step. Little different than the Mustang. :)
Everything is in mock up stage right now. For example I haven't welded in the tank mount structure yet. Also not the battery mount I will be using.
Here's the pix of what I have so far.
(http://i1220.photobucket.com/albums/dd447/turbohunter1/Fairlane/IMG_0030.jpg)
(http://i1220.photobucket.com/albums/dd447/turbohunter1/Fairlane/IMG_0031.jpg)
(http://i1220.photobucket.com/albums/dd447/turbohunter1/Fairlane/IMG_0033.jpg)
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You've come along way on this Fairlane, and your work is looking very nice. I like the turquoise color also.......Al
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Thank you.
Since you said, "come a long way" I went back and looked at where it was when I got it.
Wow, long way indeed.
Also as I was doing body work I got myself confused. Underneath the Frost Turquoise paint (which is obviously a repaint) is with Aqua Blue or Clearwater Aqua. Do you guys know? The paint code is B Frost Turquoise.
(http://i1220.photobucket.com/albums/dd447/turbohunter1/Fairlane/Image_10.jpg)
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Cool thread. I will be interested in how the car gets finished up, as I am at about the same point with my Wagon. Your car has come a long way and is looking great.
Mike
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Wanted to buy some engine parts as the time is approaching.
Was going to ask y'all about what oil pans work well on Fairlanes. But in thinking about that I needed to know if in fact I am going to use my free (thus very desirable) set of Hooker supercomps for my build. This got me thinking about what I need for my engine to breath at it's optimum level. So, did a little measuring and math (very difficult on a holiday).
ID of the S comps are 1.91 so that gives me a Primary Pipe Area of 2.8652 (3.1416x.955x.955)
These values get me to a peak torque value of 4594.76 (Peak Torque rpm=PPAx88,200/one cylinder 55)
My engine is a 440 (428 block) that will have a tunnel ram.
Going to figure spinning it to 6,500 to 6,800. I realize I'm prolly in the low to middle range of the intake (advertised 3,200 to 9,000).
My question is, do I have enough header for my engine?
I'm not trying to spin the heck out of this motor. So I'm thinking I'm Ok.
It seems a little low but in the spirit of this motor (staying together and just having fun bracket racing) Ok.
Off to the garage I go. :)
One thing about those big Hookers in Fairlanes.
Oh ya I said that. ;)
more seriously though the big pipes and the stock manual steering linkage "sometimes" does not like to
play all that nice. Power steering forget it.
All out race and I will beat them in. No problem. ::)
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Yeah I'm really looking forward to fitting them in ::)
On another note, that quote you showed has gone by the wayside.
I procured a BBM iron block so it's going to be a 427 plus motor that will spin a bit more.
Still looking to keep it all together (not max effort). Just a for fun race car.
And I always wanted a tunnel ram when I was a kid so it'll have carbs poking through the hood. :)
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Thanks guys for the support.
It has been a long journey with this girl.
Hey Mike did I miss a thread on your black mustang. Nice deal.
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Marc,
No, no. No thread missed. My Mustang was done a while ago. So long that everything needs freshening now. It is an older picture. It's hooked to my Dad's 72 F250 that he bought new.
My first dedicated track car is the Wagon in my avatar. 67 Fairlane just like you have, only a Wagon. I have done the Calvert stuff, notched the towers, did the frame connectors (although not as cool as yours). Had Survival Motorsports do a 482, waited on a BBM block until I could not wait any longer and went with the block l had. Marine block. Had a C4 done with a good converter. I did do the Shelby drop figuring it could not hurt, and at the very least the tires won't be at a weird angle if the car starts hanging the hoops.
So, I have the fuel system, shifter and instrumentation and wiring to figure out. Want to get the car old school lettered, too. I wil be interested in your progress, so keep the updates coming when you can.
Mike
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Alright, time for a little update.
As most of you know I've been balls to the wall on the Mustang. Well I finished the suspension and decided to take a couple relaxing days off and work on the Fairlane. Was getting sick of cutting/grinding/bending/welding so she and I needed a little separation. ;)
As far as that last post on getting the Fairlane ready for paint, well, it is but I'm moving it behind the Mustang as I have everything for the Mustang and need to still acquire Fairlane parts. Also the engine build on the Mustang will be more straight forward and again I have everything.
So I spent the last two days in a chair looking into the trunk and figuring out how I want to do the fuel and electric systems. Then go buy parts to install, install them then sit and figure the next step. Little different than the Mustang. :)
Everything is in mock up stage right now. For example I haven't welded in the tank mount structure yet. Also not the battery mount I will be using.
Here's the pix of what I have so far.
(http://i1220.photobucket.com/albums/dd447/turbohunter1/Fairlane/IMG_0030.jpg)
Hey Marc, I'm not sure about that battery mount.
I would check the rule book on that. Pretty sure it is a spec thing.
I have also seen those top aluminum plate things cause battery melt downs. :o
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You're right.
Read the last sentence in the quote you used again. ;)
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I was more thinking about that aluminum thing in general.
I have seen a few stories on the spiderweb with pictues ;)
and the post clamp has just come a tad to close the the plate.
I know you're following the book Mark, that thing is bad news imho.
Stop using in anything.
Make something else out of it. ;)
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I get ya. That's why I was using that deal just to get an idea of the layout of everything in there.
I think I'm going to end up fabbing a hold down/box of some sort.
As you are thinking, since I'm in the layout stage I can try to get everything as safe as possible.
That's the reason I split the fuel and electric up so that fuel is below and electric above the floor.
Just trying to make sense.
I hear you on keeping the +/- posts away from anything.
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Hi Marc,
I know you have been busy with your Mustang, just wondering if you had any updates or pictures of your Fairlane? Mine is getting "close". That's all, just curious if it was progressing.
Mike
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Nothing to report yet Mike.
I'm following your wagon closely, it's looking great. Love your electronics accessibility and the lettering.
I think I may get the Fairlane painted soon so that when I'm done with the mustang I can jump right back in.
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Cool. I will keep checking back. We all know these things don't happen overnight. Ha, ha.
Mike
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If I could just figure out how not to do this "work" thing I'd have much more time for important things ::)
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Well it’s been a little over 3 years but here we go back on the Fairlane. I have learned it’s impossible for me with my huge shop ::) to work seriously on more than one car at a time.
I’ll be spending the first weeks on this thing getting back to having a clean car to work on. The car has been under a cover but out side and even in California it rains so I’m having to deal with DS moves I did like sand blasting the headlight brackets then leaving them in the car to rust. Moron. You can see them in the foreground of the picture. That’s not paint that’s rust neutralizer. Not bad rust but all surfaces, so treat then sand and paint. Lots of this type of catching up but no worries.
I’ve also updated my plans for it.
It was going to be just a track car but Dragweek is a bucket list deal for me so I’m heading in that direction. I have to rethink fuel supply as I have installed a 5 gallon cell. All good.
As far as an engine, if I get the CJ done soon I’ll throw that in for the meantime and get the car sussed out. I still have a BBM 427 and a 4.375 crank sitting in my garage so that’s the end game.
It’s going to be a two seater and I have the rear seat so if anyone needs one let me know.
Onward and upward.
(https://i.postimg.cc/wMHGjcYw/73-A657-FF-9274-4-E4-F-BB17-B5-D8-AF6-DB2-DD.jpg)
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Back on it! Hallelujah, Praise the Lord. Lol.
Mike
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Hah thought I’d hear from you Mike.
Hope all is well.
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Cool! I have similar drag week goals with my Fairlane coupe. Have a mess of projects to work out from under first!
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I hear you on the mass of projects.
For my own sanity I sold one recently. I actually don’t miss it. I’ve figured out that I’m not Jay Brown. ;D
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Don't sell yourself short, your projects are very high quality. Takes time to get them exactly as you want them, and takes time to think about exactly how you want them!
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You’re very kind. Not down on myself at all, just a realist who is learning from mistakes. I hope that never ends. The learning, not the mistakes ;D
I must say that I really enjoy the fabrication and problem solving that these cars present.
Along with cleanup I’m starting in on the brake system. I have a camaro kit and a bunch of tubing that I bet I can make the nice system out of. It pays to hoard. ::)
In case you’re wondering, I have the camaro kit because it was sent to me by mistake. Probably a cruel joke by Dearborn classics. ;D
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Here you go Mike. I was mocking this area up yesterday. I got everything in there pretty tightly packed and am wondering if I want to leave it that way or spread it out a little more only because it’s very fiddley to service once it’s all in and tight. I’m thinking once it’s in, it’s in. Not much service needed. I also had to keep telling myself it’s not a show car, just make it work.
There is a slight kink in one line that I have to redo also. 3rd time coming >:(
(https://i.postimg.cc/JhpLyVfk/BD39338-F-E780-4021-B77-B-512-B84-F9-D145.jpg)
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Thanks for the pic.!
I'm using the same mc with the Wilwood proportioning valve. I didn't know if the lineloc could be in line before the proportioning valve. (I should read the directions)
This gives me some options, thanks for posting.
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Yeah since I’m using a regular proportioning valve I figured it made sense for me to run it like this.
Here’s the finished set up. All adapters are now out of line and my curly cues are about as even as I can get ‘em. I said earlier I had a left over camaro set of lines. The only thing I’ll end up using is the rear end span. Just not happy with the look of having to make it fit. Oh well, tried not to spend money. Fail.
(https://i.postimg.cc/k5Mg8MDJ/E03-A7625-F5-E2-404-D-84-F1-485-B35-C8275-F.jpg)
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I did a similar install on a '64 Fairlane except using the Chrysler MC from Lamb Components. My car is race-only and when it becomes necessary to change valve springs the only way to service #8 is to remove the MC mounting bolts and pull the cylinder towards the inner fender. I hope your experience is better.
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I hope your experience is better.
Me too!
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I hope your experience is better.
Me too!
X3
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Got my brake system done and am starting to think about wiring and how I’d like to set it up.
Obviously battery in the trunk. But the control panel and electrics will be something to think about.
Below is a pic of the instrument cluster I’ll use. I’d like to put switches in the blank panel on the right but I don’t want to mess up the only panel I have. Anybody have a ‘66 C6OF-10848A instrument panel? I could use it for extra parts and not feel to bad about cutting the face plate. Or I could just fab a new plate.
I have no idea if these clusters are hard to find. A quick look through eBay didn’t reveal anything. I’m not going to use a regular ‘67 cluster. I like this one better.
(https://i.postimg.cc/6qJNPQVb/A17255-DB-3478-40-DA-AA36-CB5-E402225-A7.jpg)
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Your panel appears to be a "radio delete" version and, if so, I would do everything within my power to preserve that, as is. There has to be multiple people, either restoring one of the '66 Fairlane 500 427 race cars or building a clone that is searching everywhere for a radio delete dash panel. Those are "very" rare and have been for a long time.
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Thank you.
Was figuring it was something like that. The gent I got the car from told me it was an R code dash.
I did not know if there was such a thing. He told me a few other humdingers like a block I got from him being “high nickel”.
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If it means anything, I purchased and drag raced a new '67 Fairlane 2dr sedan 427 in 1967. My car was a heater, clock and radio delete which would explain my recognition of your dash panel. There are only subtle differences between the '66 and '67 dash panels but yours is a desirable piece for the discerning buyer in need. Have you considered one of the pre-made, race specific switch panels available from Summit or Jegs; there are several variations, one of which, should cover your needs?
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Funny you bring up the race specific dashes.
Was just looking at them.
Don’t know if I’m ready for that yet in my head. Lots of research needed.
Edit
Re read and saw you said switch panel, yes looking at them.
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Thanks for the pic.!
I'm using the same mc with the Wilwood proportioning valve. I didn't know if the lineloc could be in line before the proportioning valve.
Mike, I hope I don't hijack this thread, but here is what I did on my car. I ended up using an 1/8" NPT nipple between the solenoid and proportioning valve. I also just put a plug where the pressure switch is in this picture, since I already had a brake switch under the dash. It has been working fine for me so far. I have tried the line loc a few times now, and seems to hold fine.
(https://i.postimg.cc/FKYp75wP/20180310-153403.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/QBr1yP85)
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No prob Jared.
Those Wilwood deals are great looking and a lot less crap coming from the mc than mine with the braided lines.
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Thanks for the pic.!
I'm using the same mc with the Wilwood proportioning valve. I didn't know if the lineloc could be in line before the proportioning valve.
Mike, I hope I don't hijack this thread, but here is what I did on my car. I ended up using an 1/8" NPT nipple between the solenoid and proportioning valve. I also just put a plug where the pressure switch is in this picture, since I already had a brake switch under the dash. It has been working fine for me so far. I have tried the line loc a few times now, and seems to hold fine.
(https://i.postimg.cc/FKYp75wP/20180310-153403.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/QBr1yP85)
I like the idea but I'm not following your plumbing. Your running the solenoid between the MC and pressure switch port? are the two lines out (FO & FO) going to opposite sides of the front brakes? I don't see a line to the (RO) rear out?
Currently I've got the stock location and trying to figure out the line loc.
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Hi Marc,
It would be best not to modify that radio delete cluster. Either put it on a shelf for a restoration, or use it but find a way to run your gauges and electronics that does not compromise that cluster. They have gotten crazy price wise these days, and yours looks in nice shape. Even clusters for parts guys want a lot of money for. JMO.
Mike
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If it means anything, I purchased and drag raced a new '67 Fairlane 2dr sedan 427 in 1967. My car was a heater, clock and radio delete which would explain my recognition of your dash panel. There are only subtle differences between the '66 and '67 dash panels but yours is a desirable piece for the discerning buyer in need. Have you considered one of the pre-made, race specific switch panels available from Summit or Jegs; there are several variations, one of which, should cover your needs?
SSdyno,
Would you have any pics of your old '67 Fairlane drag car you could post? I'm always interested in early photos of these cars. Was your car lettered? Which dealership sold it?
Thanks,
Mike
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Mike I checked the prices online and let’s just say it’s back on a shelf not to be touched until the appropriate time.
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I like the idea but I'm not following your plumbing. Your running the solenoid between the MC and pressure switch port? are the two lines out (FO & FO) going to opposite sides of the front brakes? I don't see a line to the (RO) rear out?
Mike, the picture you saw there was during mockup. Not everything in place....I have the stainless line coming off the master to a 90° AN fitting into the solenoid inlet. Then, the outlet side of the solenoid is tied directly into the "pressure switch port" of the proportioning valve. All the ports for the front lines are connected in the proportioning valve, so I decided to place the solenoid there, since it already had an 1/8" NPT outlet and the "pressure switch port" was also an 1/8" NPT. So, since I don't actually need the pressure switch, I put a brass block-off fitting in the original "front inlet" port. The rear is simply in and out as it was intended. I took a couple of pictures of how the setup is currently on the car and functioning.
Top left port- blocked off
Top right port- rear inlet directly from master
Left "center" port- inlet from solenoid outlet and master
Bottom left port- outlet to right front brake
Bottom "center" port- outlet to left front brake
Bottom right port- outlet to rear brakes
(https://i.postimg.cc/8zqHnBFb/20201008-181355.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/18rw8Frg)
(https://i.postimg.cc/ZqpckBpz/20201008-181452.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/R3CfK0gg)
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I see it now :D :D