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41
FE Technical Forum / Re: Overheating 427
« Last post by jayb on February 09, 2026, 07:48:28 PM »
Years ago Meziere told me that my 650 HP FE needed a 55 gpm water pump to keep it cool on the street.  If you are approaching that kind of power, I think you need a higher flowing pump.  Also, a duplicate of the factory radiator in aluminum sounds like a weak spot to me, you could probably use a bigger crossflow.

A lot of people have trouble with the engine getting hot at idle, and then cooling down at speed.  This is usually the factory water pump turning too slowly at idle.  Conversely, it is also common to have decent cooling at idle but overheating going down the road; this is usually the radiator being too small, plugged up, etc.

I'm thinking that you may have both problems since you are seeing cooling issues under both conditions.  However, bear in mind that even 220 degrees is not really that hot; as long as you are not spitting coolant out of the radiator, you probably aren't hurting anything. 
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FE Technical Forum / Re: Overheating 427
« Last post by Tunnelport427 on February 09, 2026, 07:33:08 PM »
Will check timing, but think it was 37 degrees all in. It runs hot at both idle and on the road. I am running a 35 gph electric water pump.
I went to an alloy radiator as it is the same size as the old copper one , but way more tubes.
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Member Projects / Re: fe powered 58 rambler american gasser
« Last post by mygasser on February 09, 2026, 06:31:07 PM »
Only 2 carburetors?
I hope that the a/c compressor is tucked WAAAY under.
wellll.... if a single 4 tunnel ram comes up cheap enough i may redo the top for 3x2's, only they'd be weber 38/38's. with a progressive linkage that only runs on the centre carb til 1/2 throttle then all 3 in by full throttle it should be ok. we'll see what comes up.
neil.
ps the AC compressor's a small sanden type so easy enouigh to tuck out of the way, lol.
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FE Technical Forum / Re: Overheating 427
« Last post by 1964Fastback on February 09, 2026, 06:14:27 PM »
Does it overheat at idle or cruising or both?  What is timing, and can you increase it without detonation?  Small water pump pulley is a good idea.

Pat
46
FE Technical Forum / Re: Cylinder Head Progress
« Last post by mbrunson427 on February 09, 2026, 05:52:17 PM »
https://brunsonperformance.com/products/heads/

I have info on our website page. This stuff is a tad outdated, but it'll give you an idea. Once we get these heads worked through I'm going to completely refresh all this info so it is as accurate as possible. That's just the nature of doing some design tweaking as we have worked through the process.

We 3D printed an intake port with the pushrod tube in the port to simulate the affect of the tube in the way. So the port design we went with factors that in. It's not as big of a cfm loss on the flow bench as you might expect.
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Selling components from a strong running Ford FE solid roller combination that was removed years ago and stored indoors. I originally planned to reuse these parts but decided not to rebuild the engine.

These are not stock take-off parts, these were part of a serious 428 performance engine.

- Ported FE Cylinder Heads - C7AE-A. $450 Heavily ported, 2.16 intake valves and 1.6 exhaust valves, performance springs, machined for high performance use. Has a small crack (see photos) in a head bolt boss, just in the outer edge, repairable, it doesn't extend to the deck surface or combustion area.
- Shaft Rocker System $500 Genuine Ford Power Parts (FPP) shaft-mounted roller rockers. Oiled. One rocker is a different brand but same ratio and never caused issues. They all roll smooth.
- Crower Solid Roller Lifters - $450 solid roller lifters, .875 diam. Tie-bar design,  stored oiled indoors, all roll smoothly.
- Mallory Ignition - $150 Mallory Comp 9000 distributor unilite breakerless ignition and HyFire IVA Ignition Box, unable to test but removed working.

Everything is located in San Diego, CA. I can ship anywhere in the U.S. at buyers expense.
48
FE Technical Forum / Re: Cylinder Head Progress
« Last post by frnkeore on February 09, 2026, 04:52:49 PM »
What do the TP ports flow?

Have you or are you going to flow them with a manifold attached?
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FE Technical Forum / Re: Overheating 427
« Last post by frnkeore on February 09, 2026, 04:46:53 PM »
When the weather heats up, you might try running it with the hood off or at least 1" spacers at the hinges, to make sure there is enough air flowing threw it.

Then, the first thing I would do, is put as small a pulley on the water pump, to increase the flow.

The addition of the thermostat, increasing temp, maybe says there isn't enough flow for the "that" radiator but, the fins may be to many and or to thick, not letting enough air threw.
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FE Technical Forum / Overheating 427
« Last post by Tunnelport427 on February 09, 2026, 04:36:47 PM »
Wondering if anyone can help with info. I have a 67 Mustang with a Tunnelport 427, headers, cam, injection. It runs about 210 degrees, have seen a high of 219.
Electric 35 gph pump, spal 2024 puller fan, fabricated shroud, alloy radiator, (copy of the original copper one).
Running a thermostats makes it worse.
Fan is set to come on at 185 degrees.
I am scratching my head here, do I try a larger capacity water pump, larger radiator?
Any help appreciated.
Thanks
Rodney
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