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1
FE Technical Forum / Re: Cam Advice
« Last post by 440sixpack on Today at 10:27:02 AM »
I called comp and they were of some help but not a bunch.  they assured me the 924 springs would do for my application below 5000 RPM but I understand what you're saying and will check it out if I go this route.


The say a bronze gear is all they sell for this cam.  I will look  elsewhere for an alternative.

He said vacuum should be sufficient.


This is about the mildest roller I can find or I'd be looking at something else.

 He said the idle should be a little lopey but not radical,   this is of course subjective.  do you think that's an accurate description given the specs on this cam ? 


 
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FE Technical Forum / Re: 360 Tear down: Questionable engine build
« Last post by winr1 on Today at 09:38:28 AM »
Sounds like the cam thrust plate was not installed ...


Ricky.
3
FE Technical Forum / 360 Tear down: Questionable engine build
« Last post by 1973MoneypitFE on Today at 09:36:05 AM »
So I bought a 73 F100 that has been sitting for years, but has a 360 that was rebuilt not long before the owner passed away. I was told that it had always " not ran quite right" after the build and the previous owner was working through that. The last thing being changing the distributor setup from points to electronic. So, I removed the valve covers and found problems at the #2 cylinder. The pushrod on the intake side is bent and the pushrod on the exhaust side sits about an inch away from the rocker arm. After pulling intake I found the lifter for #2 exhaust was broken into several pieces. All of this is bad, but I also found that the cam can be be moved towards the back of the engine about 3/4 in. That seems like too much movement. Any thoughts on what I need to look for to be causing this?
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Non-FE Discussion Forum / Re: USA made .625 Rubber Valve Stem
« Last post by winr1 on Today at 09:27:56 AM »
Thanks guys :-)

I got a pair of each from Firestone, Discount tire and O'Reilly's ^_^

2 Dill, 2 Schraeder which have Chine marked on bottom

The Dill show to be made in Chine on the internet

2 from O'Reilly's are Xtra seal .....  made in Chine

TR415 are .625 hole....  normal passenger stuff is TR418, .453 hole


The wheels are 15" x 8", cut apart with a backspace of 3.75"

They have material added between the 2 halves

They center in my 65 F100 better than 4" backspace

Larry, I went to a few sites, they stated if driven a lot of miles the nut should be periodically tightened

I have no idea, but it seems a bit of lock tight would help




Ricky.
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Non-FE Discussion Forum / Re: USA made .625 Rubber Valve Stem
« Last post by BattlestarGalactic on Today at 09:05:01 AM »
Would a bolt in style be sufficient?   That 5/8" hole is larger then typical I think, like for tubes.  I use them on most all my stuff.
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Non-FE Discussion Forum / Re: 2 inch wide leaf springs for 66 Comet??
« Last post by machoneman on Today at 08:28:09 AM »
I have a 66 Comet that I previously ran 9 inch wide slick on. With more horsepower in the future I would like to run a 10 inch wide slick. I think I can fit it if I can find a 2 inch wide leaf spring to run instead of my current 2 1/2 wide springs. By moving the springs to the center of the car I would gain 1/2 inch more section width clearance. I am pretty sure the wheel house will accomodate it if I trim the upper mounted bump stop. Does anyone have experience with 10 wide slick on a Comet? My rims are 8 inch wide with 4 3/4 inch back spacing. I was running a 3/8 inch space to fit the 9 inch slicks. If I can get narrower springs and eliminate the spacer or use a narrow one I think it may work. I am running cal'trac's. Does anyone know of a 2 inch wide spring? I am not able to mini tub at this time. Any experience? Thanks, Jim

Blew the link before! Here it is: https://thetrailerpartsoutlet.com/4-leaf-trailer-double-eye-spring-kit-for-3500-lb-axle-2-springs/?gclid=EAIaIQobChMIlbnKgsvl3gIVTrnACh3k9QtwEAQYAiABEgL2a_D_BwE

No experience with your desired combo but.....

Amazingly, a trailer supply shop will have your springs or can source them pretty quickly. Link provided just as an example. Contact a similar firm where you live and ask around. Btw, learned of this trick for car springs while having our old race car trailer worked on.
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FE Technical Forum / Re: Cam Advice
« Last post by RustyCrankshaft on Today at 07:10:04 AM »

For that combination, I'd like to see 130-140 seat and about 350 open.  That has worked well for me in hydraulic roller FE's in the past with this type of scenario.

One of these days I'll talk to my Comp rep about all of this because I think the "recommended" parts, along with the notes underneath the camshaft description are really misleading.  There are too many variations of FE heads, machine work, modifications, etc, etc., for the parts to work together as they do in their book.  Even something as simple as switching to a tool steel retainer can really screw up the valve spring pressures, as a lot of those retainers have a +.100" install height.....


When I was eyeballing the C1AE heads for the 390 I'm putting together now it looked like my as cast heads would put my installed height about 1.830 once all the spring seats were evened out. Once I got all my new PAC stuff I ended up a few tho over 1.900 even tho they were "std" height retainers. Nothing a little cutting and a spring cup didn't fix, but if I had just thrown them together based on what was recommended I'd have been about 95lbs on the seat instead of right at 140! You really can't use anything in the catalog other than the camshaft specs themselves until you  start checking to see what you have, the original castings are all over the map. I'm amazed more people don't run into serious trouble when they "book" build the heads from recommended parts in the foot notes.

To the OP. It certainly is more costly to go roller, but these days I have a hard time not doing it. On a mild engine it's debatable whether they make more power or noticeably more than a similar flat, but with break in issues, oil quality, etc. it's hard to NOT justify the extra 500-600 bucks for the peace of mind a roller gives. Not that I dislike flat tappets, but if the budget is there I'd go roller every time if I can.  Plus if it's a decent flat tappet you'd probably have to use a "breakin" spring and then put the real springs in after the cam run-in and I'm lazy, too much work for me!
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FE Technical Forum / Re: Cam Advice
« Last post by blykins on Today at 06:23:53 AM »
IMO, that camshaft is on the low side for what you want to do.  I feel like you could gain with a little higher duration and still keep docile manners.  That cam would be fine for a 390 and you're dealing with almost 40 cubes more.

Comp's recommended spring is a 924-16 for that camshaft. 

However....

The 924 shows a 112 seat pressure at 1.900" and a 355 lb open pressure at .700" lift.  the cams we are talking about are only .500" lift, so the open pressure would be only 292 lbs.  That would be an excellent valve spring for a .500" hydraulic flat tappet camshaft, but it wouldn't be anywhere what you would need for a hydraulic roller, running link bar lifters and 3/8" stem valves.

For that combination, I'd like to see 130-140 seat and about 350 open.  That has worked well for me in hydraulic roller FE's in the past with this type of scenario.

One of these days I'll talk to my Comp rep about all of this because I think the "recommended" parts, along with the notes underneath the camshaft description are really misleading.  There are too many variations of FE heads, machine work, modifications, etc, etc., for the parts to work together as they do in their book.  Even something as simple as switching to a tool steel retainer can really screw up the valve spring pressures, as a lot of those retainers have a +.100" install height.....

In addition, these Xtreme Energy camshafts are pretty noisy.  They don't sound clicky/tappy like a solid camshaft, but they have their own sewing machine noise to them because of the lobe shape and the lobe aggression.  This is compounded with heavy stemmed valves and could even be further compounded with insufficient valve spring pressures.


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I have a 66 Comet that I previously ran 9 inch wide slick on. With more horsepower in the future I would like to run a 10 inch wide slick. I think I can fit it if I can find a 2 inch wide leaf spring to run instead of my current 2 1/2 wide springs. By moving the springs to the center of the car I would gain 1/2 inch more section width clearance. I am pretty sure the wheel house will accomodate it if I trim the upper mounted bump stop. Does anyone have experience with 10 wide slick on a Comet? My rims are 8 inch wide with 4 3/4 inch back spacing. I was running a 3/8 inch space to fit the 9 inch slicks. If I can get narrower springs and eliminate the spacer or use a narrow one I think it may work. I am running cal'trac's. Does anyone know of a 2 inch wide spring? I am not able to mini tub at this time. Any experience? Thanks, Jim

I had 325/50 x 15’s under my 1967 Fairlane. Stock wheel houses. No mods to fender lips.
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