Rotate the camshaft so the lifter is on the base circle of the cam lobe for that valve.
I like using the EOIC method (Exhaust Opening, Intake Closing)
Gently wiggle the pushrod up and down as you tighten the adjuster (rotating can produce false results because you can't feel the ever so slight compression of the lifter plunger all the time)
Once you have removed all lash while wiggling the pushrod up and down you now are set at zero lash.
Finish by tightening to your desired preload setting (usually between 1/4 to 3/4 turn)

Not quite... But I'm satisfied. It reached $7,500.
I was hoping for $8,000 as the minimum, and $10,000 as the happy spot.
Mostly though, I'm almost done with this project turned huge hassle.
That is the big win from my perspective.

I'm more disappointed in the effort I put into building a nicely modified on the inside, but 1966 correct looking on the outside, engine that will not be used where it was specifically built to go.
Especially when the goal line was so very close.

I need to be careful how I talk about this because I don't want to go into a rant, but the stoppage of the project stems from an extreme lack of understanding concerning this sort of work while having an extremely misguided expectation about how things should be.
The best analogy I can come up with is they think this is an episode of Overhaulin... except the rebuilding must be done to a factory correct level of appearance.

I learned a valuable lesson with this particular project, and my nice guy personality might get fooled again, but I'm looking out for it now and hope I recognize the signs early enough to say no should this type of situation present itself again.

I have a question for you.
Did you look at the auction while it was live?
If yes, what did you think of the presentation I made for the auction?
I'm curious what other car oriented people think of how I presented this slightly different auction item.

First, with any vehicles, you must take a careful look to know what is there... Never go on assumptions.
If this Audi is good, it is good, and if it has been repaired then you must check into that because repairs done properly have good results.

The manner in which the salt was applied, and how the vehicle was kept/maintained does make a big difference.
Here in Minnesota we get to deal with road salt for at least half of the year, and that road salt takes its toll on everything (I wish they would get rid of it myself)
About 10 years ago my city began applying the liquid form of road salt (they use various mixtures depending on the temps of that month because our winters range from 30*F down to -30*F.
The liquid versions have proven to be much more damaging than the crushed solids.... and that stuff flat out kills my grass wherever it sits each year where the old solids only killed grass where it was literally piled.
The liquid version also stick to things much more readily than the solids, and it gets into ANY available opening.
This means if the chassis has holes (which it likely does to facilitate assembly line processes) then liquid salts have gotten into the holes.
Just using my truck floor mat as an example.
Standard Ford carpeted floor mat with solid salts on the road in winter I find a slight whitish remains as the occasional chunk of salt.
With the liquid salt the carpet is totally saturated with the mixture and it is very hard to remove. I literally have to use the pressure washer and a lot of rinsing and scrubbing to get that stuff out of the carpet.

The big thing to look out for with modern cars (2000 and newer) is the hidden rust you can't see because of the poly panels being used so often.
This leads to rust out from the inside out... meaning if you see rust bubbles, or plain rust on the outside, it is likely twice as much rust inside, and once they "bloom" things seem to go fast.
Lok down into the panels, and chassis holes, as best you can to help determine what is going on.
If things look good, even if it was driven in salty conditions, things are likely good... But you have to look for it.

Manufacturers often build to abate this to some extent so look into what AUDI (for that year) was up to.

Sodium Chloride (Rock Salt)
When it comes to de-icing roads, sodium chloride (rock salt) is one of the most common types of salt used.

Rock salt is a naturally occurring mineral mined from underground salt deposits. Rock salt is very effective at melting ice down to about 15 degrees Fahrenheit. However, it isn’t effective at super-low temperatures, so you’ll want another option if it gets colder.

Rock salt is relatively inexpensive and widely available, making it a popular choice for municipalities and transportation departments. Caution is important, though. Rock salt can corrode metal and concrete. Using too much of it can damage the environment by contaminating soil and waterways, and pets and wildlife should be kept away from it.

Sodium chloride is effective and inexpensive but only suitable for some roads.

Calcium Chloride
Calcium chloride is a salt compound composed of calcium and chlorine. It is a white, crystalline solid that is soluble in water and used in various industrial and commercial applications.

Calcium chloride has several advantages. It is used as a de-icing agent to melt snow and ice on roads and sidewalks, making winter driving safer and increasing the hardness of the water. Additionally, calcium chloride is used to preserve food, as it helps to reduce spoilage and extend it’s shelf life.

Magnesium Chloride
Magnesium chloride is a salt compound composed of magnesium and chlorine. It is a colorless or white crystalline solid soluble in water used in various industrial and commercial applications.

One of the primary advantages of magnesium chloride is that it is less corrosive than other types of de-icing salts, such as sodium chloride or calcium chloride. It is also effective at lower temperatures, making it helpful in de-icing sidewalks and driveways. Similarly to rock salt, there can be environmental damage, so it’s essential to use it carefully.

Potassium Acetate
Potassium acetate is a salt compound composed of potassium and acetate ions. It is a white crystalline solid primarily used as a de-icing agent on airport runways and other aviation applications.

One of the primary advantages of potassium acetate is that it is less corrosive than other de-icing salts, such as sodium chloride or calcium chloride, making it a popular choice for use on aircraft surfaces.

Unlike other de-icing agents, potassium acetate is biodegradable and does not harm vegetation or aquatic life. However, it can be more expensive than other de-icing salts and is less effective at lower temperatures, taking longer to melt ice and snow.

Calcium Magnesium Acetate
Calcium magnesium acetate is a salt-free de-icing agent made from calcium carbonate and acetic acid. It is less harmful to the environment than other salts and can be effective at lower temperatures.

Beet Juice
Another option is beet juice, a natural de-icing agent made from sugar beet extract. It is biodegradable, non-corrosive, and does not harm vegetation or aquatic life. However, it can be more expensive than other de-icing agents and may be less effective in extreme weather conditions.

Urea
Urea is a chemical compound commonly used as a fertilizer and a de-icing agent. It is a colorless, odorless solid that dissolves readily in water, making it easy to apply to crops or spread on icy surfaces.

Urea is synthesized commercially using ammonia and carbon dioxide. In addition to its use as a fertilizer and de-icing agent, urea is also used in producing plastics, adhesives, and animal feed.

While urea is generally considered safe, it can have negative environmental impacts if it is over-applied as a fertilizer. Excess urea can cause algal blooms in bodies of water, leading to oxygen depletion and harming aquatic life.

As a de-icing agent, urea is less effective than traditional salts and can be more expensive but is considered a safer and more eco-friendly alternative than the other options mentioned in this blog.

Glycols
Glycols are a class of organic compounds commonly used in aviation applications as a de-icing agent. These compounds have a low freezing point and can remain in a liquid state even in sub-zero temperatures, making them an ideal choice for de-icing airplanes. The most commonly used glycols for de-icing are ethylene glycol and propylene glycol.

While glycols are effective at melting ice and snow, they can adversely affect the environment and human health. Ethylene glycol is toxic and can be harmful if ingested, while propylene glycol is less toxic but can still cause irritation to the skin and eyes.

Additionally, glycols can contribute to water pollution if not properly disposed of. For these reasons, glycols are not typically used as a de-icing agent for roads or sidewalks.

There are a few possible things happening with the transfer tube and associated parts. This assumes the parts are correctly sized, and without physical faults in the first place.
1) The tube is not smooth, straight, round, so it can't seat against the O-rings, or the rubber fitting of the other type.
2) The internal passage for the transfer tube on the float bowl body has something going on that is causing things not to seal. Scratch, delaminating finish, old gunk, been cleaned out with abrasive methods thus making the hole bigger than it should be... something could be there so look carefully.
3) The tube end lip is a little sharp, or has a burr of some type, causing issues with the seals... I chamfer the outer edge of every tube ever so slightly to ensure they won't cause issues. I also deburr the inner edge just to make certain there is no foreign material that will come loose and get in my needle and seat and give me that super fun fountain of gas all Holley owners know and love.
4) The O-rings or end gaskets were not fully seated when installing the tubes... easy to do especially with the O-rings.
I like the little special tube end gaskets better than the O-rings.
I check each gasket carefully for any imperfections and remedy those before installing... they are usually good out of the box, but sometimes there is casting flashing or nibs that must be dealt with.
I lube every rubber end gasket with Vaseline, or silicone grease, before installation (very lightly, almost like you are trying to wipe it off rather than put it on)

O-Rings, I like to double up and stack tightly against each other, and I start them about 1/8" from the end of the tube.
The end gaskets I place over the end of the tube and stuff in the hole while working the tube ever so slightly to ensure they insert fully and smooth... You can push the end out of those if you just shove them in and things are not perfect.
I finish with the end gaskets by using a tool I made to push the gasket into the hole after both float bowls have been installed, and the tube has been centered by hand (mark the tube beforehand so you can see center). A tiny scribe mark is all you need.
Push the end gaskets in so they are fully inside the tube hole chamfer on the float bowl receiving end and be sure to push them in evenly around the circumference.

Doing these things will greatly improve your sealing situation, and it sounds like a lot, but once you have it down it adds about one minute to a full carb rebuild.

Do you have a friend or relative that works for a company that ships and receives things?

If you can find a company with a commercial shipping account, you can likely ship using their discount.
You do ALL the packaging, address verification, figuring out insurance and everything else...make it so they literally place the items on the scale, enter the address, done.

If you are shipping to a residential address, you will pay more than shipping to a commercial/business address.
If you have the shipping hub of the carrier you use local to you, you can ship from and receive at the shipping hub to save money.

If you can make three less heavy boxes instead of shipping one large, "overweight" box you might be able to save money...do the math on this to figure out exactly what the rates will be.
Very often you can save money when shipping boxes that are below their "overweight" limits because the rates increase a lot when shipping overweight.

If the boxes are smaller and can be handled easily, and you are shipping from and to high traffic areas, you can often find an independent carrier/trucker who will take the deliver the items as an added cartage to the trip they are already taking.
All the work for this is on you though, so be ready to answer questions and assist them in the process.

Most insurance companies were run poorly and are not suffering from paying out damage claims.
The insurance company response to this is to raise premiums and lower coverages.

But you are likely talking about a "rider" or "addendum" style package to your existing insurance coverage...likely your homeowners insurance...who are the ones "suffering" and are loathe to add any coverages.

SafeCo allows for these riders, and I'm sure others do as well.

You will be required to produce an inventory and value based on real world evidence.
This will be an additional item on your general coverage similar to covering jewelry, collectables, tools and machinery, and parts inventory items like most businesses.

If your insurance company will not allow for this type of additional rider coverage, I would directly ask them why.
Then go searching for a different insurance provider.

There are certain insurance companies that directly service specialty items, like Lloyds of London (Lloyds is not actually an insurance company by the way, but those details only matter if you choose to use their services)
This style of insurance provider will insure just about anything as long as you can prove actual value and are willing to pay the premiums.

Search around, this is not an unusual insurance item/subject...It might only be a "problem" with your agent.

New fuel sending unit with verified ohm reading between 8-73.
Verified working fuel gauge on the dash.
Verified working wiring between the gauge and the sending unit.

With sending unit out of the tank, hanging on the plug, and manually operated I can get it to read on the dash gauge; empty where empty should be, half tank where half tank should be, 3/4 tank where 3/4 tank should be, but not reach full. I can sweep smoothly between empty and 3/4 tank on the gauge as well.

I can get Ohm readings consistent with the level of the tank float and where that should be on the gauge.

I can achieve the readings with the sending unit touching the tank and hanging free from the tank.

I have verified the float is buoyant and moving freely in liquid by submersing it in a bucket of water in the position it would be in while in the tank.
I am using a poly float, not the brass float.

But, when I place the sending unit in the tank, even if just placed there, it will only read below empty on the gauge and there is about 1/3 a tank full of gas.

I bend the float arm to lower the float, effectively making it read higher on the gauge....still below empty on the gauge.

I have both visually looked inside the tank, as well as put my hand in there, to verify there is nothing in the way of the float travel through its full range of motion.

Verified dash gauge.
Verified float is floating.
Verified sending unit is sending within required gauge parameters (according to Ford literature)
Verified wiring is good.
Literally operated float by hand to verify gauge is moving with sending unit out of tank.
Bent float arm to set float lower in tank initially in an attempt to "find" 1/3 tank level on gauge with sender installed.

But the effen thing won't work once placed in the tank...just placed, not even locked with the lock ring (although it has been tested that way too)

What have you got for ideas with this one?