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Topics - cleandan

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Non-FE Discussion Forum / Timing advance weight spring choices.
« on: September 02, 2022, 09:45:31 AM »
I am working on a 1965 K-Code 289.
I have been chasing, and repairing, various ignition troubles.

While I had the distributor apart to check the advance stops and springs I noticed this particular set up has the heaviest spring I have ever seen on one side, and just about the lightest spring on the other.

Is this normal/factory for a K-Code?
I don't remember ever seeing this wide disparity of spring weights in any distributor before, but one thing I seem to remember is I don't really remember all that well anymore, so this could be fairly normal.

Does anyone know what advance springs were installed as factory K-Code items?

Well it happened, I was using my trusty old Craftsman advance timing light (P/N: 161.2194) and the inductive pickup clamp found its way to the exhaust manifold.
Now I have a nicely melted inductive pickup clamp...$#@@!!&&*^!!

I have searched around but can not come up with anyplace selling either a universal replacement clamp, or the exact clamp for this timing light.

Does anyone have any useful places where I could source such a part?

I believe this particular light was made Feb 1996 (there is a tag reading "B-96") and it still works perfectly, other than the new modification.

Thanks for any and all help and have a great weekend.

Hello all, I am searching for a distributor rebuilder who knows and understands 1960's dual point versions.
There is a very good local builder here in MN (Advanced Distributor, LLC) but he will not rebuild a Ford distributor.

Others I have previously used are out of business due to retirement or health.

I know Fahron Rhodes (I spell this wrong usually) does, or did this work, but I have no good contact info anymore.

Do you fine folks have any good distributor restoration services you would recommend?

FE Technical Forum / Help with vague return to idle
« on: July 22, 2022, 07:25:45 AM »
I am having trouble with a carb that has a vague return to idle.
Here are the details so far.
Autolite 4100 (1.12 if it matters) in excellent rebuilt condition.
I can adjust the idle with precision both up and down in rpm.
There is no binding with any portion of the carb linkage. (each portion has been isolated in an attempt to find a fault)
There is no binding with any portion of the cars throttle linkage. (each portion has been isolated in an attempt to find a fault)
There are two good return springs.

I have verified the butterflies are not touching anything during their sweep from full open to full closed, including the gasket or the intake runner.
I have verified nothing on the carb is loose or bent (throttle lever rivets, shafts, butterflies on the shaft, choke step up cams and so on)
The throttle screw, and its spring, are in good order.
I have verified no part of the throttle linkage is having any identifiable issues.

Everything about this carb, and its set up, appears to be in order yet here I am with a weird idle that seems to alter itself at will.
The idle is a bit finiky when cold, but when warmed up a little things are good (this is more choke than anything else I suspect, as in I don't use the choke at start up, I just baby the throttle for the first few seconds until things settle in)

But when driving around I may pull up to a stop sign and get my "set" idle, or I may get an idle that is a few hundred rpm higher.
The odd range is in the 700-1200 range and never above that.
Sometimes it settles into the set idle slowly too.

I have even checked the system for worn spots that may have a ridge or groove in any part of the linkage that is hanging up, or acting like a variable cam, but nothing like that was found.

I have dealt with many different reasons why a throttle may not return to the same position, but in this particular situation there is nothing that shows itself as the culprit.
Something is there, I just can't seem to see it at this time.

Any good suggestions about what to check.

Oh, this is a rod and lever throttle linkage, no cables.

Thanks in advance.

I have a set of four dog dish hubcaps for a 1964 Galaxie. (C4AZ1130A).
They are in very good condition.

I would post photos but I can't seem to figure that out on this forum.
I can text you images if you wish.

I am asking $200 for the set of four (shipping and packaging will be added to that price accordingly)
Good offers accepted.

My shop phone number: 612-280-5560.
Located in the Twin Cities area of MN.

Thanks and have a great day.

I have a pair of new, never installed, reproduction cast iron shorty headers made to copy the C1AE-9431-C originals.

They have been ceramic coated in dark cast iron grey.
They include the collector studs and nuts.
They have never been used so they are still as nice as they were when delivered.

I would post photos but dang, I can't seem to figure that out on this forum.
If anyone needs photos I can text you images....that I seem capable of accomplishing.

Asking $1,100, which includes shipping.
Reasonable offers will be considered.
Located in the Twin Cities area of MN.

Shop phone: 612-280-5560.
Please leave a message, and a good time to call you back.

Thanks and have a great day.

Good Deals! / Dead Nuts On treated me well and made a good product.
« on: June 27, 2022, 08:33:48 AM »
The comapny, Dead Nuts On, ( were good to deal with, made a good product, did things in a reasonable time frame, and the overall cost made using them a good value.

I purchased a driveshaft for a 1965 GT-350.
The driveshaft arrived packaged VERY well.
All the proper paint markings and numbers were in place.
The proper U-joints and slip yoke were installed.

I simply had to unbox the driveshaft, remove the retainer holding the pinion yoke U-joint caps in place, and install.

The cost for this complete, ready to install, properly marked and built driveshaft that was shipped directly to my doorstep was $470 total.

As a comparison it would have cost me $400 to get one built in my area.
This would not include the slip yoke....another $100 at least.
This would not include any proper paint markings, nor would it have been built with any sort of collector car visual aspect in mind. I'm not saying the driveline shop unit would look like sheit, but the Dead Nuts On unit was built with both mechanical and visual aspects clearly in mind....I'll call that $50 in time and materials.
This would include me delivering to, and picking up from, the shop doing the work....the closet shop to me is a 60 mile round trip...I'll call that another $100 in time and expenses.

The people at Dead Nuts On are enthusiasts who know the product, speak the language, have useful suggestions, are knowledgeable enough to ask useful, guided questions, and they were pleasant to deal with.

It has been a long.....LONG time since I have dealt with a company doing business in this manner.
I enjoyed doing business with them because of all they have to offer.

I have a 1965 289 HiPo that needs a rebuild.
It is currently running okay but a refresh is in order.

I am wondering if changing some internal parts will hurt the collector value of the finished engine.

I will certainly keep anything external that has a numbers matching casting.

But what about installing forged pistons, or an aftermarket crank and rods, a camshaft and rocker system?
Will changing these parts hurt the value?

Of course anything that gets removed will be kept as part of the "kit" for this particular car.
That way all the factory parts are still available, even if they are not currently installed and being used.

Some of the potential changes are simply to use newer parts that have not been cycled so many times over the last 56 years.

Thanks for any insights.

Non-FE Discussion Forum / 9" differential yoke runout specs?
« on: June 09, 2022, 10:05:03 AM »
Hello all, I am woking out some driveline vibrations and I measured the axial runout of the 9" differential yoke.
I measured a 0.022" difference.....Then it occurred to me I have no idea what are acceptable yoke tolerances.

I assume they are pretty tight based on how precise a U-joint is made, but they are also cast so maybe things are generous in variance.

Does anyone know if 0.022" is something to be concerned with in terms of axial runout on a differential yoke?

Thanks in advance.

I have a Borg Warner T10 manual transmission that needs rebuilding.
My local transmission shop is no longer in business (retired...good for him)

If you know of a good shop that can rebuild one of these please let me know.

I can search for "shops" but I would rather learn about a shop that someone has had good service from than just finding any shop.

Thanks and have a great day.

Hello all you happy FE people, espeically those from MN.
I need some driveshaft work and I no longer know where the good shops are......or is it shop these days?

I am seeking a shop that employs talented people who can balance a driveshaft.

I have had HORRIBLE service from Clutch and U-Joint in the past.
The shop in St. Paul and the shop in Hastings I used to use are no longer in business and since that time I have not required any driveshaft services.

I sure hope there is still one good shop, with at least one good tech in the area.
I am willing to drive to get to a good shop, but I live in the south east metro if that matters.

Thanks and have a great day.

Non-FE Discussion Forum / My Holley adventure for today.
« on: May 15, 2022, 11:05:04 PM »
A car I am working on had the power valve go out on a Holley 715 CFM carb.
Idle mixture screws seated shut, but engine still running, usually tells the tale of a bad power valve.
I searched through my stash of power valves.....eleventeen 6.5's, and at least one of each from 2.5 up through 7.5.....but no 8.5 like the factory specs used....Dang.

Off to the auto parts store....which turned into stores, and here is how things went.

My local O'Reilly's: The two guys working there did not know what a power valve was but they were able to look up the proper part.....after I told them it was for a Holley carburetor, and after I told them the part number would probably be 125-85.
I began the whole exchange by literally asking, "Do you have an 8.5 power valve for a Holley carb?"
Neither of them knew they had power valves hanging on the wall directly behind the counter....Unfortunately they only had a 5.5 and a 6.5.
"Thanks for your help" and off to the next store along my way to where the car is stored.

Almost across the street from the O'Reilly's is an Auto Zone: I pop in and the counter guy asks me "what are you looking for?"
I tell him, "I would like an 8.5 Power valve for a Holley carb"......long pause, and deer in headlights look, followed by, "a what?" We talk a bit....

He taps on the keyboard for a while and then asks if this is for the driver side or passenger side?....You see, his computer, when filled in to search for "Power Valve" went to some front suspension parts for a Volvo.
I spent some time explaining what a power valve was, what it went into, and where to look in the computer.
Finally he was able to access some power valves, along with about 15 other items that had NOTHING to do with carbs....we weeded through the chaffe and eventually he was ready to order a 4.5 power valve for me.
Not because it was the part I was searching for but because it was the top listed power valve on his page.

I spent a bit more time explaining the power valve numbering system and how it correlates to a vacuum signal.....which he did not understand even after the explanation.
Then he took me to the "performance section" in the store, which consisted of a few peg hooks of SPECTRE chrome stuff and a couple see through fuel filters, but no power valves.
"Thanks for the help and have a great day" and off to the next store along the way.

NAPA: I walk in and the guy is on me immediately asking what I am searching for.
I say, "I would like a Holley 8.5 power valve" to which he answers...."A what valve?"
This time I jump right in and try to skip all the build up by saying.
"I am working on a Holley carburetor and the power valve in that carb has failed"..."I need a new power valve and 8.5 is the version I am looking for." "I am pretty sure your part number will be 125-85 because that is the Holley part number."

Tipity-tapity on the keyboard and soon he asks, "what is a power valve?"
To which I answer, "It is a part inside a carburetor"
"What kind of carburetor?" he asks and I say, "Holley".

He types for a while and then he asks, "what car is this on?"
I say, "It does not matter when it comes to power valves but it is a 1966 Shelby GT-350".
Then he asks, "who makes that?" Keep in mind this was a guy old enough to look at least 30.
Of course he can't find this car in the computer so he asks a few more questions but then I ask him...."Are you able to look up Holley carb parts like gaskets, rebuild kits, floats and such things?"...."They may be under your Keystone listings."
He just stares at the screen and then says, "I think so".

At that point I said, "Hey, thanks for your help and you have a great day."
In a moment I am sitting in the parking lot realizing things have changed far more than I understood. Then I thought about calling a friend to see if he had any 8.5 power valves......Nope, like me he had everything but the 8.5.
He did suggest I try the O'Reilly's on Robert street because they still carry some performance parts and Holley stuff....Thanks man, and have a great day.
Off to the next parts store along the way.

O'Reilly's on Robert, which used to carry a LOT of performance parts, but now their selection is relegated to one sheet of pegboard....which is now about 80% more than anyone else carries.
As I walk in the guy asks me what I am looking for and I tell him.....same story, no clue, no ideas, until I ask if they have any carburetor parts in the store.
He directs me to the "performance section" as he is saying, "I don't think we have any of that stuff in the store".
They had some power valves, and some Edelbrock carb stuff too!.....but no 8.5's.....Dang.

Finally I make it to the car and I install the 7.5 power valve I have in my stock.
I tune the carb and everything runs really well again and the owner is very happy with the results.

Today I realized my old ways of going to the auto parts stores for carb parts are finished.
I know the stuff is old, and many of the parts are not regular fare anymore, but having no knowledge of a Holley carbs existence and no knowledge of a power valve?...even its existence? That seems weird to me.

I was especially troubled by the counter two stores....that did not know about the performance parts that are literally hanging on the wall 8 feet from where they stand and work each and every day.
How can you be an auto parts store employee and not look around where you work?
How can you stand in a place for 5-10 hours per day and not be a bit curious about what is literally stocked within your view?

Again, I fully understand the cars and parts I am playing with are old, often 50+ years old, and I usually prepare myself for this prior to entering the store because I know something obscure like the heavy duty waterpump on my 428 is not likely to be listed in the computer......But not knowing Holley.....Even as a brand name?

Today I was in four different auto parts stores, and I dealt with 6 different employees. NONE of them knew what I was looking for.....even when they had an image on the screen it did not trigger any useful outcome.

I try real hard to purchase from local businesses but it seems all my carb business will be through Mikes Carburetor Parts from now on.

Non-FE Discussion Forum / What was the tire to have in 1971/1972?
« on: May 13, 2022, 11:30:24 AM »
I am wondering what was the tire to have in 1971/1972.
I am talking street legal tires here, not racing tires.

You have your car set up and ready to go for saturday night racing and you installed what tires?

Non-FE Discussion Forum / Where to get a replacement Autolite 4100 ID tag?
« on: February 28, 2022, 01:43:56 PM »
I am working on an Autolite 4100 carb for a 1965 289 small block street cobra that is missing the aluminum ID tag.
The carb body is marked (C4OFAL) and it is a 1.12.
Do any of you know where I might source a good reproduction?...I figure an original is basically made from unobtanium these days, or costs $52,345.
While I know the number system and other such things, I do not know, without question, what the tag numbers should be for this exact car.
Can any help with that specific information?

Thanks and have a great day.

FE Technical Forum / Looking for Autolite 4100 rebuild tips and techniques.
« on: February 19, 2022, 09:33:24 AM »
I will be refurbishing an Autolite 4100 (1.12)
This carb sits atop a 289 in a 1965 CSX street cobra so originality is important in this case.
I have rebuilt many of the 4100 series carbs and realized I have never really asked anyone about them.

Do you have any "do's and dont's" I could benefit from knowing?
Is there a better place to get parts for a 4100, if needed?

I purchased my rebuild kit from Cobra Automotive because they put together the various parts to make a comprehensive kit, but I don't know of anyone actually making a full rebuild kit anymore.

The 4100 is a good carb and pretty straight forward to refurbish, but still, have you got any tips to make my finished product even better?

Thanks and have a great day.

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