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Messages - cleandan

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Non-FE Discussion Forum / Re: Timing advance weight spring choices.
« on: September 19, 2022, 06:51:47 AM »
When i tried the two light springs it tried to advance at idle making it hard to time,so i put one heavier spring and one lite spring and it worked perfect

The idle area is where I find bending the tabs just a bit can give me a very specific advance starting rpm.
I will install springs that get me my total at the rpm I desire.
Then I look at the curve to see how it advances across the rpm range and if it is good I leave those springs in.
Last I will move the tabs in or out to adjust the advance start rpm, usually about 200 rpm above idle for a street car.
Then I finish by checking it all once again to be sure the tab bending did not alter the other aspects.

Many times I find the springs are loose, or slack, at idle when I first start tuning an unknown distributor, and this usually results in a variable idle rpm to some extent.

Thanks for all the input. I still don't know why this distributor had such a huge disparity in advance spring weights but all that has been taken care of and this particular 57 year old, 53,000 mile original runs pretty good now.

Non-FE Discussion Forum / Timing advance weight spring choices.
« on: September 02, 2022, 09:45:31 AM »
I am working on a 1965 K-Code 289.
I have been chasing, and repairing, various ignition troubles.

While I had the distributor apart to check the advance stops and springs I noticed this particular set up has the heaviest spring I have ever seen on one side, and just about the lightest spring on the other.

Is this normal/factory for a K-Code?
I don't remember ever seeing this wide disparity of spring weights in any distributor before, but one thing I seem to remember is I don't really remember all that well anymore, so this could be fairly normal.

Does anyone know what advance springs were installed as factory K-Code items?

Well it happened, I was using my trusty old Craftsman advance timing light (P/N: 161.2194) and the inductive pickup clamp found its way to the exhaust manifold.
Now I have a nicely melted inductive pickup clamp...$#@@!!&&*^!!

I have searched around but can not come up with anyplace selling either a universal replacement clamp, or the exact clamp for this timing light.

Does anyone have any useful places where I could source such a part?

I believe this particular light was made Feb 1996 (there is a tag reading "B-96") and it still works perfectly, other than the new modification.

Thanks for any and all help and have a great weekend.

FE Technical Forum / Re: Dumb Exhaust Question
« on: August 11, 2022, 09:27:39 AM »
LOL on noise.  When I was asking for my variance to build the shop, I got asked about noise.  One board member was concerned because he knew I had race cars.  I answered "My SIL lives around the corner and has a Harley. There are two other Harley's about 5 houses away.  None have mufflers as far as I can tell.  They are tagged and licensed properly.  My race cars all have mufflers."  Pretty much ended that discussion.
I too find the application of noise ordinance rules interesting.
A Harley Davidson motorcycle can be loud enough to be heard over 2 miles away and this seems to be the norm, as well as allowed.
If your customized Semi-Tractor is running 10" diameter, straight through stacks, and it resonates the windows in homes as it drives by, no worries, carry on, you are fine.

There are constant daily instances where the vehicle noise is very loud, yet little is done to enforce that law....and it becomes ignored, which sort of defeats the law.

If you enact a law you should be required to enforce that law evenly and consistently....otherwise get that law off the list.

I don't know about distributors that well but Jeff said something to the effect that having the advance adjustment under the plate makes it difficult to adjust and is time consuming.
Maybe I mis-understood.
Yes, this is true of the distributor type I am working with.
You have to take it apart in order to make certain advance adjustments.

Other distributors can be adjusted by removing the cap only, or inserting adjustment tools through "windows" in the distributor housing or cap and this is much easier.

With that said it is not too hard to make the adjustments on Ford distrbutors, it is just not as easy or quick as other types.

FE Technical Forum / Re: Dumb Exhaust Question
« on: August 09, 2022, 10:25:16 AM »
There are quite a few little things that can be done to tune your exhaust to be quieter, while using the same components.
Steel, stainless steel, titanium header pipe material, thickness, and diameter have an effect. Most headers use tubes that ting, or ring, with each exhaust pulse adding to the engine noise.

Exhaust pipe diameter, either too big or too small, will effect the overall sound.
Too small often causes a rapping, popping effect.
Too large often causes a drone, or echo effect.

Muffler location in the system makes a difference.
Close to the header collector means the gasses are still expanding after they exit the muffler.
Close to the tail pipe exit can often cause a quieter exhaust note.
Muffler and resonator, placed properly, will often decrease the exhaust tone.

Number and style of bends in the pipe, as well as pipe length can effect tone.

Tail pipe exit position, direction, and finish end make a difference too.
Exit under the car, before the rear axle and you get a lot of added sounds due to harmonics of the body of the car.
Exit directed at the ground causes the sound to bounce up and back, giving reflected sounds that are not part of the sound profile when the pipe is aimed out into open space.
A pipe exit with a straight cut will cause the exhaust gasses to pop out, like a smoke ring, giving a sharper tone as compared to a slash cut that allows the gas pulse to "slip" out more quietly.

Having a balance tube of some type (H-pipe, X-pipe, Merge-pipe) will lessen the overall pulse strength coming out of the pipes.

FE Technical Forum / Re: Dumb Exhaust Question
« on: August 09, 2022, 10:12:58 AM »
In Sweden we have whats called Amature constructed vehicles
at first tech inspection they check sound level, 85Db. A stock Harley
have to much mecanical noice to pass. Same with hoodles hotrods with
overvalve engines have a hard time to pass

I would suspect my bone stock, 7.3L, IDI, diesel would fail this test too.
The engine in factory spec simply makes a lot of exhaust sounds, just the running engine.
What do they do when a factory delivered vehicle is too loud and it is not something like exhaust causing the noise?

FE Technical Forum / Re: Initial Advance - How Much Is Too Much?
« on: August 09, 2022, 10:03:47 AM »
Initial advance is usually detected when your engine is hard to crank over at start up, very often being sensitive (harder to start) when everything is fully hot and heat soaked.

This means you should be certain your start circuit is good.
Battery is good, all electrical connections are clean and sound, and battery/starter cables are proper gauge and in good condition BEFORE deciding you have too much, or not enough, initial advance based on how easy it starts hot.

The more inportant aspects of ignition timing are total advance and the advance curve.
Learn to read your plugs. Modern electric ignitions make this more difficult, but still viable.
Learn how to do a "shut down run" and find a good place to do them.

Find the total advance and advance curve your engine likes and stick with that.
Once you know the total, then you can dial in the intitial to suit your car.

As a general starting place FE's like the 32-38* total advance, 12-18* initial, and a moderate curve that starts around 1,100 rpm and is all in by about 2,800-3,200.
Of course this is a guesstimate because your specific engine build paramaters will determine the needs.

Start with total advance, read the plugs after a shut down run looking for signs of detonation.
Advance until you see signs of detonation, then back off 2*...make another shut down run...make adjustments...lather, rinse, repeat until total is found.

Then move on to advance curve.
Once the curve is right you are likely at your initial setting by virtue of other parameters being set...but if you find you need less initial you must make adjustements and reset total.

If you find you can take more initial you must make adjustments and reset total.

A proper initial will clean up idle, improve starting, help with plug life around town and cruising, and can even increase economy if you don't have a vacuum advance distributor, but it is the least important of the advance adjustments.
1) Total advance
2) Advance curve
3) Initial advance
4) Vacuum advance

Last, be certain your carb is set up right before going too deep with the advance tune.
Very often I begin my timing tune sessions with a carb adjustment, but this can be a bit of a double edged sword because many "carb issues" are are actually ignition based.

Non-FE Discussion Forum / Re: Ford to eleminate dealership's.
« on: August 03, 2022, 08:14:25 AM »
Dealerships charging very high markups should be addressed and stopped....but they do need to make a useful profit to be a viable business.

When dealerships are able to keep a useful stock of product for the customer so the customer can walk in, purchase, and drive away, that dealership has a useful purpose.

When the dealership is little more than a middle man who manages the transaction between customer and manufacturer, while not having anything in stock to purchase on site, that dealership ceases to provide a useful service because the purchase and wait for product is the same when the dealership is little more than a delivery site.

When dealerships are providing other services like maintenance, upgrades, parts, and special offerings they do serve a useful purpose beyond the selling of new and used cars.

With the recent situation giving rise to less, or no, new vehicle stock and long, long, long wait times for new vehicles, it can give the impression that dealerships are no longer required.

But we will ALWAYS want to try something like a car before buying.
Sit in seats, play with the knobs, feel if the car is generally comfortable for you....and even things as simple as, will I fit (some cars are very cramped) must be done in person........If there is no dealership and thus, no way to effectively try one on, things would be very much different in the car buying world.

This particular subject does correlate with another on this forum and it gives some insight into the desire to turn vehicle ownership into something akin to appliance ownership, rather than car ownership as we once knew it to be.

Not really a Ford distributor rather a Grant Spaulding for a FE. It's hard to find someone who will check it out so I called Jeff at Advanced Distributor. He said he hasn't worked on a G-S but would like to take a look at it. He did say no Ford distributors.
I talked with him about 3 weeks ago and have since picked up a G-S manual that discusses the setup and rebuild process.
Hope to send the manual and distributor to him this week.
Richard >>> FERoadster

Advanced Distributor is local to me and it was my first choice because I really like to use local talent if posible.
But Jeff clearly states he will not work on Ford distributors....which erases him from my option list unfortunately.
I do wonder why he has made such a choice.

Non-FE Discussion Forum / Re: Ban private ownership of car's
« on: August 01, 2022, 08:34:44 AM »
No need to get spun up about the "World Economic Forum".  The name sounds ominous, but they're simply a lobbying group based in Switzerland.

Apparently they angered the United Nations back in 2012 because they had their "observer" status revoked on the U.N. Economic and Social Council.  They have no power over any government or agency anywhere.  All the World Economic Forum can do is cluck - cluck about their agenda.

I think our cars are safe!

Misdirection is one well practiced, well used tactic.
If the World Economic Forum has no teeth, little say, and no effective input why are we constantly hearing about what they propose?
Even if their reason for existence is only to test the waters, so to speak, they are still a viable part of the whole problem of removing your personal freedoms.

Concerning the safety of your ability to drive your own car as you see fit....Well, many ways to remove that privilege are being hashed about by these "world saving" forums, and many of the ideas are being slowly fed into the system to move the line of acceptance little by little.

It is highly unlikely you will wake up on Tuesday to find your car towed away by the Government because it is no longer legal to drive....but, taking away the parts that make driving a free choice are happening little by little as we speak.

Little steps is how they are making it happen.
1) Cars are being built more like appliances with each new iteration. This goes into the psychological aspect of car ownership making you less involved, and less invested, in the personal touches you see as your personal car......Think this is not working? Just look at the general mindset of the 2022 generations idea about attaining a drivers license and a car.

They kind of don't care to get a license or a car, where first license/car attainees from 1950-1990 were chomping at the bit to get that license and car....even if that car was a POS it was still THEIR own car and this included a certain psychological connotation linked to freedom.

Look at engineered maintenances is being built into cars today....They are making it more difficult to maintain your own car with each passing iteration. Even general maintenance items like head lights/tail lights, oil filters, and the battery have become quite difficult to change unless you have specialized tools, training, and access to needed parts....This trend has been slowly pushing the average car owner away from general maintenance as the norm, which in turn is slowly removing the average car owner away from the psychological link to car ownership....It's just a car, rather than "my" car....Let the shop fix that.

This particular aspect has led to ideas of making auto maintenance illegal unless you are certified to perform said maintenance.....guess what they have used to help drive this idea?
Ding, ding, ding, ding....."public safety".
They have been bantering around ideas that include accident fault being based on unqualified maintenance.
For instance, take an accident at an intersection where the other car cut across your lane while they were making a left turn and you had the green light to proceed forward.....They crashed into your car, but....but, was it your self maintained brakes that actually caused the problem because if they had been redone by a licensed shop maybe they would have worked better, thus allowing you to brake in time and avoid the crash......Think this is BS? It is not. It has been discussed and has even had some legs, all at the hands of "public safety"

Look at how things are going in terms of being private in your own car.
Cars made within the last 20 years ALL have some type of audio monitoring, electrical monitoring, GPS info, data logging, uploading, and remote controls of some type built into them from the factory, many also have automatic video/audio that enables itself when the car....not the operator but the car itself, senses a certain event may be in action.

More and more if you are operating a modern car you are also being monitored. Every aspect is being cataloged and stored via an uplinked computer system.
Monitoring your movements, actions, and choices is part of the overall tactic.

Look into how insurance is moving.
At this time we are being fed "cute" commercials with tag lines like "Don't mess with my discount!" and "Safe Driver"........People are being fed a cute story to hide the underlying goal...which is ultimately controlling you.

Oh sure, you may say you will never get one of these devices, but doing so includes never driving a car newer that the year 2000...and certainly the year 2015, because they come factory equipped with this simply may not be enabled yet, but that is an easy computer link away from being used, which can be done without your consent under the guise of "public safety" because "public safety" is the fake driving force behind the control.

Anyway, lets say you choose not to participate in the monitoring program to save you money on your insurance premiums....Opting out will still be an option as a means to hide the real goal.
But when you opt to not use the monitor oddly your insurance premimums might be $1,000 per month. Now when you want to drive your restored 1967 Mustang you either retrofit the monitor system into the car, or you must pay the super high premimums in order to be insured....Thus pushing the vast majority of owner/drivers out of their vintage, non-monitored vehicles.

At this time the general public is driving a car with all sorts of automated safety items.
1) Stability control
2) Traction control
3) Anti-lock brakes, including auto emergency braking
4) Launch control
5) Automatic emergency braking
6) Lane detection with steering input to help keep you in the lane.
7) Drowsy, distracted driver detection and alerts.
8) Tire pressure monitors
9) Cameras and microphones all over the car
And the list goes on and on because the overall idea is to get you out of the drivers seat.

This reminds me of the question; "How do you eat an entire Elephant?" "One bite at a time."

Groups falling into the genre of the World Economic Forum, with an agenda of overall protection and safety of the masses, work without rest coming up with palatable ideas in which to control the very masses they pretend to protect and keep safe....Mostly for their own self improvement.

Much of this stuff sounds like hysteria and black helicopter paranoia....and some of it is exactly that to keep people unclear about the real goal. But much of what is taking place, and being accepted by many as benign, is NOT what it is dressed to represent.

Banning private car ownership is but one aspect of the whole goal, and it is a real desire by a growing number of decision makers because it plays to their benefit, not yours like they want you to believe..

Thank you so far, very helpful.

Hello all, I am searching for a distributor rebuilder who knows and understands 1960's dual point versions.
There is a very good local builder here in MN (Advanced Distributor, LLC) but he will not rebuild a Ford distributor.

Others I have previously used are out of business due to retirement or health.

I know Fahron Rhodes (I spell this wrong usually) does, or did this work, but I have no good contact info anymore.

Do you fine folks have any good distributor restoration services you would recommend?

Non-FE Discussion Forum / Re: Ban private ownership of car's
« on: July 31, 2022, 09:01:27 AM »
The World Economic Forum has MANY dubious ideas alredy in place, and they are constantly trying to enact, and enforce, more.
While this FE Forum is not the place for such details, I do suggest you search the web, as well as some worthy publications, to learn about what is happening in greater detail.

The World Economic Forum uses tactics like global health, global safety, and climate change as a means to force these ideals.
Do not be be mislead.
They do not care about your health, your safety, or the climate.
Those "reasons" are nothing more than a useful means to an end.....and it is working so far.

Non-FE Discussion Forum / Re: Ban private ownership of car's
« on: July 29, 2022, 11:11:14 AM »
Jay if this violate's any forman rule's just delete it.
The World Economic Forum stated today their goal is a worldwide ban on private ownership of car's. They want everybody to use public transportation.
The reason is that they can use the resource's used to producr car's and truck's to make more cell phone's and wind power machine's.
I guess all you farmer's and rancher's need to start buying mule's and wagon's to get your product to market.
The stated reasons of resourse management is a misdirection.
What the World Economic Forum really wants is to control your freedom of movement.

They will try to sell this as a health, safety, or global crisis solver/protection, but the true reasons are based in fascism and authoritarian rule.

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