Yes.
Find a place like Pirtek and have them make you a proper hose.
https://www.pirtekusa.com/

I don't know if you have this company where you live, but I bet you can find a similar type outfit.

They will make a hose for you to fit the application specific needs.
They will use hydraulic fittings and tools to build the hose to withstand the pressures.

What specific hose, and specific fittings are currently being used?
Pictures are good, and brand names and part numbers are even better.
I want to see the bare fitting, as well as the bare hose please.

There are a number of different stainless braided hose styles and fittings and some of them just won't work for this type of use.
Even if the hose is rated to a certain pressure, the fitting to hose connection may not be adequate.
Let us know what you are using to better help you find a solution.

Thanks again....I really do appreciate your input.

Great answers so far, and thank you.
The engine is in a car.
No fuel in the car for a long time...actually no gas tank at all right now.
The gas tank will be new when things get fired up again.

Unfortunately I don't remember if I fogged the engine or not....I think I did.

I plan on looking around with a bore scope prior to any crankshaft motions.
I plan on removing the valve covers to look at the valve springs...looking for and signs of rust.
I plan on priming the oil system prior to turning the crank, then running the oil primer while turning the crank and getting all valvetrain parts lubed well.

I am actually thinking about pulling the intake, then installing all the valvetrain again, then priming to see how things look, but this might be a bit excessive.

Still, a few hundred in gaskets and time is nothing compared to rebuilding an FE again.

The carb (735cfm Ford Holley) has been dry and will get a rebuild prior to the fire up.

I may even go so far as to pull the C6 to install a new seal so the trans does not leak upon startup....but I might wait to see how that goes too.

Please keep the ideas coming, and if you have any reasons for a certain thing to do please explain them so I know why I am doing instead of just doing.

Thanks again and have a great day.

I went through a very frustrating drivline vibration diagnosis not that long ago.....You really need to check everything, and check it carefully and with great detail.

I was working on a VERY highly restored vehicle that paid exceptional attention to every detail concerning correct parts and markings and so on....and it all really did appear perfect.

As the job progressed here is what I found, in steps, after finding and fixing each items along the way to eliminate parts as the process played out.

The driveshaft tube was slightly oval shape, more at one end than the other....no signs of ever being hit or damaged. This was a bad tube from the get go and nobody noticed....it was out of round enough to see with the naked eye.

The rear driveshaft yolk was welded on out of round and this was not the oval side of the tube.

The drivesahft was not properly balanced....It had a HUGE amount of weights welded in place, on both ends. This alone should have given the driveshaft maker, or balancer, a major clue that something was not right.

You might be surprised to find how many "good" shops don't really have a good balancing machine, or they have one that is out of calibration, or they have an operator who does not really know what they are doing beyond the basic movements.
Talk with the person who will do the balancing to get a feel for their level of understanding.

Side note: I once dealt with a big driveline shop (in Utah) that told me their balancing machine was so sensitive that if they balanced the shaft, took it off the machine and put it back on the machine, the driveshaft would be out of balance...........I was broken down on the road, far from home, and stuck with this shop. The shaft they built was shit by the way, but it got me home.

The slip yolk was an old piece that was refurbed, but it had taken a hit at some point and was no longer true.

The rear driveshaft yolk was new, and....wait for it.......crap out of the box. Who ever heard of that happening in this day?....Oh yeah, pretty much everyone who works on vehicles because so much is crap out of the box today.

The differential yolk was worn (actually ground by someone) by a large number, like 0.040" or so, between the two cap retaining humps. This allowed the U-joint to move back and forth enough that it may, or may not, be placed in the proper postion.

The reason for the big gap on the rear differential yolk came at the hands of someone trying to fix a non-issue they did not understand. This particular car used a rear U-joint with different sized caps and someone installed a U-joint using big caps on both ends rather than big on the driveshaft and smaller on the differential yolk.....so they ground things to fit instead of sourcing the proper U-joint......But hey! it has the correct paint marks so it was right.

The front U-joint, new parts from auto parts store, was out of round out of the box....but installed anyway. This one I can forgive because we should be able to expect a good U-joint when purchased new....but we can't anymore.
I specifically use Spicer U-joints because they have proven to be better, but they are not perfect so verify them too.
Precision brand U-joints stink a lot and was the part found to be faulty in this instance.

All of these items gave rise to a vibration that was difficult to find and even more difficult to diagnose due to so many items being wrong at once.

Check everything and do NOT assume any parts are correct until they have been verified correct.

Mike, there were a couple different mirrors used in 1966. (besides trim options of course)
I have never nailed it down to why so I just figure it was a running revision or a regional parts issue.

Anyway, the squarish mirror on my 66 7-LITRE is not easy to find if the specific details matter.
I can find period correct looking mirrors, but not like the one on my drivers door.

Also, there was no requirement for a passenger door mirror in 1966.
If your car never had a passenger door mirror (no holes, mounts, or witness marks) then your car was ordered without a passenger door mirror and this was perfectly legal.

My Galaxie never had the passenger door mirror and I have seen a couple other 66's that don't have the passenger mirror either, but this is not common....and sometimes you have to go through the hassles of the authorities telling you the mirror was required....It was not.

         Dump it!   

         It costs to much to make into a usable unit, compared to that which is available in the marketplace already machined to fit properly.   

         Scott.

Scott, it's been a long time since I checked.
What is the cost to make the FT steel crank into a usable FE crank these days?
What is the cost difference between having the FT crank made to work as opposed to buying a quality new aftermarket crank that needs a little tweaking before use?

Both questions assume there are no extenuating circumstances requiring extra work and cost.

freydaddy, just another chiming in with some helpful advice.
A full spool changes things drastically because you now have a single purpose tool in the rear end rather than a multi-tasking differential.

Do a bit of research online concerning the geometry at work when you have two different lines being traversed while connected.
The easy description: When turning, the inside tire travels less distance than the outside tire.
This means the two tires, connected via the spool, must figure out a way to travel different distances, at different speeds, while being radially connected by the axel shaft.....something MUST give.

What gives, hopefully, is the tires traction ability....meaning the tires must skid in some manner.
The inside tire scuffs around the smaller circumference while the outer tire skids and tries to keep up with the radius turning speed of the inside tire.

ALL of this causes every portion of the suspension and rear driveline to bind as it works to overcome the traction limits of the tires as they skid.

From the driver seat you WILL feel, and hear, many things you have not yet experienced.
Be specially aware of on and off throttle chassis/steering inputs as you go around cloverleafs at speed.
It will basically feel like your car is being shoved by the hand of god as it shifts during the turn....often in an unsettling manner because the car tries to either go straight, or the unloading and loading of the suspension "grabs" and then slips, and then "grabs" again, over and over until the curve is complete.

EVERY portion of this is elevated if the road surface has any type of traction limiters, (rain, sand, snow, dirt, leaves, mayflies, etc)

If you have a BIG parking lot available I strongly suggest you drive around that empty lot fiddling with turning radiuses, throttle inputs, braking inputs, and other things just to get used to driving with a spool and sticky tires.

Once you have a full understanding about what is going on and what is normal then you can drive around with knowledge and confidence.......But don't think for a second you can toss the keys to another driver and hope they do okay.

A spool is a dedicated tool that can not be duplicated any other way....but like most dedicated tools, they have their limitations and place.

I don't think the street is a good place for a spool equipped driver style car.
If you are taking a dedicated drag car to a special show once or twice per year then it is okay.
But if this is your "daily" cruiser a spool gives rise to many plausible troubles that other differential options cover in a far better manner.

A Detroit Locker is one better example.
They come with their own set of "instructions" but they are MUCH better on the street than a full spool.

Anyway, know what you installed and understand the "contract" you signed when installing the spool in your street driven toy.

Big power, skinny front tires, wrinkle wall slicks and a spool make for some exciting driving......just hope and prey it does not rain....ANYWHERE you will be driving that particular night of street racing, otherwise you may find yourself driving home at a comically slow speed just so you don't crash while driving straight down the highway....The on ramps are really fun.

I, ummm, read about this in a magazine once....Yeah, that's the ticket, in a magazine.

What is "stock" on any of these?