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Messages - cleandan

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16
I'm surprised with nothing yet.
I figured at least one member would know of a place selling old helmets, a collection/collector, or some other option that may help.

Or I would find a person with a "collection" of old helmets like I have, where none of them have been actually damaged, but they have all aged out and no longer pass tech only because of the mfg date.

For this use it will be costume apparel, not actual safety gear, or riding gear, so any Z4 helmet that is still in good relatively looking condition, color does not matter, should work.

17
Non-FE Discussion Forum / Re: it happens
« on: December 01, 2023, 09:52:28 AM »
I'm sure we have all experienced this in some fashion.
Working on mechanical objects exposes us to some irritating things....of which we find out in curious manners.

While the attention getting sensations you describe do make a lasting impression, I find it is the stealthy things that seem to get me the most.

Things like trac-lok additive............a seemingly benign little bottle of special lubricant.
However, should you get this on....well....anything, that thing will stink like the horrible additive for the next ten years and there is basically no way to clean it off.

18
Hey all, my daughter is searching for a Shoei Z4 helmet (a Z3 will work)
This is the helmet used by Uma Thruman in the 2003 movie Kill Bill Vol.1.

I figured we all have at least one, if not many, old helmets that are still good, but have aged out and found the shelf.

If anyone has a Shoei Z4, or Z3, helmet they would part with please let me know.


19
Non-FE Discussion Forum / Re: Turn up the speakers
« on: November 27, 2023, 07:04:46 PM »
I enjoyed watching the vibration confirmation gauge the he mounted on the center head stock nut.
And of course the muffler flying apart at the very end.....from parts vibrating loose.

These are fun bikes to ride regardless of how many times you have to replace various fasteners that come loose.

The video is quite good too, especially from the sound side of things.
Too often we see some great video footage that is accompanied by the ever so irritating wind noise.

20
Non-FE Discussion Forum / Re: Strange diet
« on: November 21, 2023, 09:59:02 AM »
Heo, thanks for the story.
I really enjoy learning about my parents and grandparents being more than just my mom/dad, grandma/grandpa.....they were young once too and hearing about the things they did is interesting and fun to me.

Luckily I have some great stories to help me remember them, for I too miss them.


21
Thanks Mark.
Message sent to you.

22
My kid lives in the Arlington, VA area.
She is driving a 1999 Toyota Camry LE. (45,000 mile car I picked up for her)
This car has an aftermarket car alarm that I would like completely removed from the car in a neat and tidy fashion.

Does anyone here know of a shop (professional or home shop just so long as the work is quality) where this work could be properly accomplished in the Arlington, VA area?

Thanks to all.
Have a happy Thanksgiving, and be sure to eat your share of the goodies.

23
I learned something about this car over my recent visit.....It has an aftermarket alarm system.
I believe this system is the battery drain causing issues.
Unfortunately I was unable to remove the system during my stay due to limited time, limited tools, and even more limited space to do any type of work beyone airing up tires and cleaning windows......aaah the limitations of apartment living.

I installed a battery disconnect switch my kid can operate and understand and created a new problem.....The need to reset the alarm prior to starting the car.
Super Fun.

This reset is where I learned the car had an aftermarket alarm because when I installed the fully charged, load tested battery, there was nothing while turning the ignition switch.

As I was poking around checking various relays, connections and other simple "start" things I found the horn/alarm tucked neatly under the hood.....hmmmmm, this looks like an alarm system.

Sure enough.......Okay, where is the box, or reset?

Pretty soon I found the reset and was able to reset the system with the key in the run position.

The horn had been disabled so the alarm did not "alarm" but the four way flashers flashed and the ignition kill function still works.

This alarm will be fully removed at some point, but I am hesitant to have my kid take the car to a shop for this removal because I don't want a shop simply cutting wires to "remove" the alarm....I want that thing out of the electrical system 100% and done neatly so as not to cause issues.

If anyone knows of a chop with such skills and enough give a shit to actually do a good job I would greatly appreciate the help.
Arlington, VA area is where my kid lives.

I'm going to post this elsewhere on the forum to see what help I can find.

Happy Thanksgiving to everyone.

24
FE Technical Forum / Re: 428 FE SFI balancer?
« on: November 20, 2023, 08:55:00 AM »
I've used a Powerbond on a few different FE's, including a 428 that sounds like what you intend to build.
The only "probem" I have had with any Powerbond I have ever used is wondering why other makers can't make one like this.
They simply bolt on, fit, align, and work as required without any drama.

Get a Powerbond and move on to the next step of your build.

25
Thanks for the reply.
Part of the problem is no usable electrical outlets near where the car is parked, which means no battery tender/charger type devices....and underground parking so no solar either.

26
Non-FE Discussion Forum / Re: Need some construction advice
« on: November 10, 2023, 02:25:15 PM »
Try to determine what is moving to allow the nuts to come loose.

If you keep tightening the nuts and they keep coming loose, something is moving.
The nuts are vibrating loose somehow.
The studs are either stretching or the threads are stripping.
The floor plate of the lift is crushing.
The stud is pulling out of the concrete.
The floor is shifting.
The ground under the concrete is moving in some manner.

I don't know where you live but this could be the result of freeze/thaw cycles.


Oh, and never rule out gremlins....specially if you have one parked on the lift.

27
I am wondering which battery cut off system I should use for a car that gets little use.
This is a 45,000 mile 1999 Toyota Camry LE, V6 my daughter is using.
Where she lives she seldom drive the car, often leaving it sit for two months at a time...and the battery goes dead.

I am thinking a battery shut off that she can easily manipulate might be of good service in this situation.

What do you suggest I use for this application.
Thanks for any and all help.

28
FE Technical Forum / Re: top speed estimate
« on: October 31, 2023, 02:50:50 PM »
If you plan on taking the Fairlane faster than 130, for any length of time, I strongly suggest you work on diverting the air going under the car.
The factory suspension is not built to safely control the loads experienced at speeds above 120 mph so anything above 130 is really working things hard.
The areas you get into real trouble occur when the road has a rolling hump that is not a jolt to the suspension from a hard bump but rather a full bottoming followed by a high rebound basically flying the car.

Above 140 everything changes in terms of steering input, suspension bounce and rebound, ride height associated with how the car reacts with the air rushing around it.

I have had my 1966 Sumbeam Tiger up to 157 MPH, and while it does have some suspension modifications, it is basically stock.....and I will never go that fast again unless I divert the air going under the car because it is literally on the brink of crashing at that speed.
125 and under the car is solid, stable, predictable and fun.
130ish and things begin to get light, but still tractable.
140 and the car is talking to you saying...are you sure you want to do this? as things get very light and much less controllable.
150 and the car is now telling you....No, nope, oh Ill go faster because I have the power, but you shouldn't.

29
Non-FE Discussion Forum / Re: Distributor timing recurves.
« on: October 25, 2023, 09:25:59 AM »
Mark, a couple things to think about.
1) MSD basically copied the duraspark distributor to come up with their design.

2) The duraspark distributors were first released when small caps were the norm. This means you can install a small cap for the correct appearance if you desire, just be sure to get the accompanying rotor that goes with the small cap.

3) If you will alter the advance plate slot it is 0.026" per each 2 degrees of advance. (.013" per degree). This means you measure the slot as is, then weld and file to the desired advance limit slot dimension based on your measured needs.

4) Adding bushings to the slot limiter post is another way to modify advance plate movement. If you have the plate out for work it is a good idea to modify the post to be highly consistent in measurements, this way you can then make any desired limiter bushing to drop over the post...They are stamped from the factory and not terribly accurate from a machined part perspective, but they work just fine as-is so you don't NEED to true them up.

5) Bending the advance spring mounting post (tighter for later/higher rpm limit) will be that final adjustment to get things exactly where you want them, but it is a great place to start if your advance limits are close already....and easy too because you don't have to take things apart much to get at them.

Good luck. Timing events may be one of the most commonly misadjusted portion of an engine as well as the couse of many problems that seem to be coming from someplace else.

Whenever I get asked to help tune a carb I always start my process by verifying the timing events and getting that squared away first....the rest of the tuning depends on that being correct.

30
FE Technical Forum / Re: Distributor stuck in block.
« on: October 24, 2023, 07:41:35 AM »
dozz302, you have good info already so I'm just adding to the pile.
1) Patience is your best tool with this job.....if you care to keep the distributor housing anyway.
2) JB-80, Kroil, and PB Blaster have all proven to work well in side to side tests against other penetrants.
3) A 50:50 mix of acetone and automatic transmission fluid works well but the acetone makes it pretty flammable, and the acetone evaporates quickly, so only apply where needed and apply often while being careful to not get it on any painted surfaces you care about.
4) Apply some penetrant, let sit overnight, give the housing a twist right, a twist left, then a bump front/back/side/side with about enough force to just barely dent a new car fender using a rubber mallet or soft faced dead blow hammer......but always error on the side of not hitting hard enough....again, time and patience is your best tool for this job.
5) Depending on how badly corroded the distributor is this will get the housing out within a few hours up to a couple weeks....usually you get some useful movement within a day or two, but keep oiling between wiggle sessions while staying patient and not just twisting it off.

Good luck.
I hope the housing neck is not pitted beyond use once you get it removed.

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