I don't have a large 3D printer so I'm limited in the size of buck I can make. Besides, if you get real carried away the printed buck can't take the pressure trying to form a large section anyway. At least not with what's available to me. I print solid pieces. If you need to check it takes 30 seconds to unclamp it.

There are all sorts of ways to do this, but if you over-complicate it then the value starts to disappear in a hurry. In all honesty, for the amount of time I've got into this and what I actually NEED to repair, I could have hand formed the panels in about the same amount of time. But I wanted to try the sheet metal forming and I can see where there would be times that it's just not practical to hand form even if it is possible.

No help for the 8-71 or the other castings, but I did just recently scan and build a surface model for the quarter panels on 65 Comet's (hardtop). So if anyone needs re-pop quarters or patch panels I have the data for them. Currently having some patches made for my project. The 3d scanning and surface modeling works pretty decent for this type of use, but it is time consuming depending on the shapes involved. The body lines on the quarter that gradually taper out to flat were a bit tuff to build the model for.

I have a set of QA1's on the front of my 64 Galaxie. I just put them on before it got parked for the winter so I can't say for longevity, but I have run QA1's on quick a few cars and generally been happy with them. The Vikings I've used are also decent.

The t-bar mount I'm not a fan of, but I'm not aware of anyone making lower control arms set up for a coilover for the 64's so unless I just up a stock arm I'm stuck with the t-bar style lower mount. I prefer the "uniball" style lower bearing mount to the t-bar. There is a company called PMT that says they make arms for that style coilover mount but I was never able to get ahold of them.

My Galaxie does something similar but in the opposite direction. The gauge works and it does read, but it's biased significantly. Tested the sender and it was good, wiring is good. Replaced the sender anyway - no change. Mine stays on full far too long, 1/4" tank is nearly empty. Only thing I haven't checked yet is the CVR. I know its working, but I don't know if maybe the set point has drifted. That would possibly explain the bias. I also tried ground jumpers, etc. Everything individually is working fine, last 2 things are either the CVR has an issue or the gauge itself is the problem.

I have, but not the FE version. I've used several of the Pertronix ready to run distributors in FE's and been happy with them. They use a chevy style cap, but honestly, most people these days wouldn't notice and they're decent quality for the money.

I've used the Summit brand distributor in a 454 chevy and it's been fine. My neighbor drives it several times a week during the good weather. Probably 8500 miles on it so far with no issue. I wouldn't swear to it, but I think they're re-branded TSP parts which are MSD clones. The Speedway distributors are TSP and it looked identical to the Summit one when I had both in my hand. But these days it hard to know for sure with everyone ripping off everyone else's engineering.

Cool video, don't see much footage from a local track like that one. I recently acquired a 64 Galaxie 390 that was originally a 3 speed but someone along the line swapped a toploader out of a Fairlane into it. It's un-restored but a pretty solid car.

Where is it leaking from? The seal itself, the cap? What kind of seal? Couple of things you can try is a different brand seal or maybe one of the one piece seals. Are you using the side seals? If you are I'd probably ditch those. I've had much better luck filling those full of a good quality RTV.

I've used the Borgeson stuff in a Mustang and 2 Fairlanes (as well as few brand X projects) and have been pretty happy with their stuff. I don't really have a problem with the power assist stuff, but an integral box is definitely a lot nicer and a cleaner set up. As soon as I figure out the exhaust situation I'll probably order the new steering gear. I'd also expect to have to fiddle with the pump a little since I'd like to keep the stock Eaton pump.