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Messages - RustyCrankshaft

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1
Non-FE Discussion Forum / Re: Electric water pumps
« on: September 18, 2026, 08:26:23 PM »
I don't really trust the published numbers, when they are even published at all. The reason is, flow rate under what conditions? T-stat open, T-stat closed, long rad hoses, short rad hoses, etc. All that changes flow rates.

May years ago in an attempt to fix a low speed overheating problem in my POS sqaurebody trail truck I bought a high flow mechanical pump. The stock GM pump flowed about 41 gpm free flow (using a bucket to test) and the new pump flowed about 50 mayb 51 GPM. Spinning it at 3100 RPM which is the fastest I could easily turn it hanging off the side of a bucket with a hose on it for the test. Obviously this is going to flow less when mounted to engine but in this case I wasn't concerned with the actual number so much as comparing one pump vs the "high flow" version to make sure it was moving more coolant.

Not exactly apples to apples, but an mechanicl FE water pump is going to be reasonably close.

The electric pumps would be easier to test with the bucket method and eliminates the speed variable since they have their own built in motor!

2
Member Projects / Re: '62 Galaxie Progress Report
« on: August 24, 2026, 10:52:38 PM »
Quote from: mbrunson427 on August 18, 2026, 03:10:03 PM
Well guys, I got it dropped in this weekend. Bunch of stuff to hook up but the major lift is done.

Just FYI, we were able to drop it in as a complete assembly. Engine, trans, gear vendor, long tube exhaust manifolds, starter, all attached. We had the alternator hung on the front, it caused a bit of a rub with the battery tray, so we took it off quick rather than remove the battery tray. Raising the back of the car on the lift helps a ton.





Looks really good back in the car. I like installing at least the engine and trans in one shot if I can, I  just think most of the time it's a lot easier. Getting it in with the headers and GV also on is really nice!

3
Member Projects / Re: '62 Galaxie Progress Report
« on: August 24, 2026, 10:51:21 PM »
Quote from: CDXXVII on August 11, 2026, 08:29:15 PM
Thanks. Should I be looking at primer first or just shoot gold to bare steel like the factory did?

You don't have to use primer, but it will hold up longer if prepped well and a good primer laid down before the paint.

4
FE Technical Forum / Re: water pump bypass tube that goes into the intake manifold
« on: July 31, 2026, 09:54:22 AM »
Pioneer also offers replacement bypass tubes in the stock configuration. I think you can still get the thread in brass ones from several places (or make your own) and Blue Thunder still has the stainless stock style press in tubes.

5
FE Technical Forum / Re: TKX into a FE
« on: July 31, 2026, 09:52:53 AM »
Modern Driveline offers a TKX with the input already shortened. I've ordered several transmissions from them. Modern also offers them for both the narrow and wide Ford pattern. I've done the swaps both ways, with the shortened input and with the spacer.

6
Member Projects / Re: '62 Galaxie Progress Report
« on: July 23, 2026, 09:42:17 PM »
Quote from: CDXXVII on July 23, 2026, 09:36:29 PM
My next question for the paint guys is would the gold on the valve covers be able to handle the high engine temperature?

Pretty much any catalyzed paint, enamel or urethane in either single stage or 2/3 stage paints will hold up to engine temperatures much better than any spray can will. If you don't need a specific paint code, you can also get catalyzed high temperature paints from PPG, DuPont, Valspar and Sherwin/Martin. I'm sure there are others, but those are high temp paints I've sprayed before.

Take an temp measurement of your hood or roof skin after it's been parked outside on a hot summer day and you won't worry about your valve cover temp anymore! Especially if it's a dark color.

7
FE Technical Forum / Re: Weird crap in my carb...
« on: July 21, 2026, 11:15:08 PM »
Running the carbs dry works well. I run non-ethanol gas as much as I can, but the last tank of the fall for sure. Don't run dry or any additives, just filled the tank, drive it home and walk away. But any ethanol gas is suspect, especially since a lot of states are under use waivers that allow considerably more than the % listed on the pump sticker.

8
FE Technical Forum / Re: Starter
« on: July 21, 2026, 11:13:06 PM »
All of my modern starters are wired like that with battery power directly to the starter mounted solenoid and the original Ford solenoid provides the momentary signal.

9
FE Technical Forum / Re: Distributor Gear For My Comp Roller Cam
« on: July 21, 2026, 11:11:10 PM »
I am running several Pertronix distributors on hyd rollers Brent and Powell have ground for me (in FE's and 2 brand X bigblocks) and not had any issues with them. My picked is driven several days a week and gets a lot of miles put on it with the stock Pertronix steel gear. I've had it out to inspect and based on that I'd say that gear would run 150k miles no issue at all or more.

10
Non-FE Discussion Forum / Re: Metal head gasket coating. Which do you use?
« on: July 21, 2026, 11:06:14 PM »
Copper coat or Hytac I think are the best. But I have seen, and used enamel in a spray bomb in a pinch and it worked.

11
Member Projects / Re: '62 Galaxie Progress Report
« on: July 15, 2026, 07:13:46 PM »
The paint code for Castilian Gold used on the engines is F and the paint formula # is 32277. Most paint stores can't figure it out and mix a much darker color as a lot of modern color libraries have the color cross-referenced incorrectly. I have 2 labels for 2 different brands of paint I can give you the specific recipe for if you need. I found if you ask the store to look up 63 full size they'll usually find the correct code. Castilian gold is a spring of 1962 color, prior to that there was a gold that is very close but not exactly the same called Tahiti gold.

12
FE Technical Forum / Re: Rocker arm to shaft clearance spec ???
« on: July 02, 2026, 08:21:11 PM »
Quote from: MeanGene on July 02, 2026, 01:35:32 PM
I have a slightly different philosophy, having spent many years around very large things with huge oil pans and hydraulic tanks, which get very hot and transfer the heat into the air- you'd never want to touch the hyd tank on a big excavator at the end of the day, as it makes a helluva big part of the cooling system. In those rockers, I like just enough clearance to ensure a good flow of oil for cooling of the rockers and springs, and concentrate on ways to efficiently return the heated oil to the pan and/ or cooler to carry the heat away. I like to have as much flow for cooling as I can without flooding the covers, rather than restrict the flow way down- there are ways. And managed to say that with words not exceeding 11 letters, as most of you already know I am just a Dumbshit 7th Class (AKA Hillbilly) like everyone else, and if I started trying to impress people with a lot of bullroar word salad, folks would think that Fender Lizard had hijacked my account- quite a few of you have been around long enough to get that one lol  ;D

I worked on some logging processors that moved hyd oil through the tanks so fast we plumbed a line from the intake to the hyd tank with a check valve to put boost in the tank to help keep the suction side of the pumps from cavitating. Those tanks also had bolt on heat sinks on them and by mid-day you could cook bacon on them. I never tried, but I did heat up my lunch on them more than once while on long duration service calls!

I'm also a fan of oil flow within reason. Maybe in a drag race engine you would/could limit the amount of oil in there quite a bit. But for a street application as much oil flow is as practical without causing another issue like pumping the covers full or causing windage or drainback issues I think helps. The cooler stuff runs the longer it'll last. But that's just my .02 and it's probably not worth half that with inflation so....

13
Private Classifieds / Re: wtb 390 duel plane aluminum intake
« on: July 02, 2026, 08:12:57 PM »
I have several Performer 390's, but I don't know I'd use one on anything but a pickup truck.

14
Non-FE Discussion Forum / Re: F-250 locking differential
« on: June 22, 2026, 09:31:29 PM »
Another option is the Eaton E-locker. They're a factory option on newer Super Duty's and swap into the older Sterling's with just changing the tone ring. I've found several in the yards around here for under 100 bucks. The E-lockers are pretty tuff. I have one in my trail truck in the front Dana 60 on 40's and so far I haven't hurt it.

15
Non-FE Discussion Forum / Re: F-250 locking differential
« on: June 16, 2026, 08:10:52 PM »
You can get TruTrack's for the Sterling axles and I much prefer them over the Powertrax or a clutch type limited slip. Your truck has a 10.5", but for simplicity just about all the aftermarket stuff uses 10.25" stuff so it's backwards compatible.

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