Your wrench may be fine, but a torque wrench typically does not have a linear calibration. At the bottom and top of the scales they are less accurate. So if you use a 250lb wrench at 30-40-50lbs it will be off more than it will be at 200lbs. The digital wrenches are a bit more linear, but they still suffer from the same problem, just less severe.

I just bought a couple Olympics to replace a tired BendPak and a Rotary. No complaints. The Olympics seem to be as good as the other import brands like BendPak. They were the most reasonably priced a few months ago when I bought them.

I had the same thing happen to a forklift I bought. Bought it with supposedly no spark, been sitting. Put a battery in it, hit the key and it make about 200* and stopped. Was stuck so bad after that I ended up having to take the rod caps off 3 &4 and beat the pistons back to TDC. ATF and kerosene cleaned up the crap, bolted it all back together and it's been running ever since. It is a flathead, so it isn't picky, but I never thought it'd last this long being stuck so bad.

Fire it up, at least it'll run and drive and give you a chance to asses everything and decide what to do next. Besides cleaning up the mess from soaking the cylinders!

At this point what do you have to loose? Make sure it's go oil in it, put some ATF in the cylinders crank it until you get oil pressure, plugs back in and see what happens.

Likely it will run but will probably use some oil. I don't think you'll hurt it worse just getting it started, if it's hurt bad you'll know fairly quick, but really, the damage was done when it got the water in it.

Specifically for trucks but has a lot of alternator ID stuff in the thread:
https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/942250-just-did-a-3g-upgrade.html

You can use almost any pre-mod motor 3G, but they have 3 common outputs - not all are the 130amp. If it's a Rockauto or other generic alternator on occasion I've had to shim the pulley when using the pully off the 1/2G. The OEM Ford's I haven't had to shim.

If your wiring is in good shape you can buy a "dummy" regulator from PA Performance that fits most 60s/70s 1/2G applications and turns the 3G into a plug and play install. If you have the 130 amp you probably want to run a charge wire directly to the battery and bypass the ammeter. In the 67-79 pickups the 95amp ones seem to work fine with all the stock wiring. Never risked the 130 without a new charge wire so can't say what would happen but I'm guessing you'd let the smoke out pretty quick.

That primer will work fine, but if you want a decent finish that will last it is definitely NOT the product to use. That roll on stuff just doesn't work very well and you will have adhesion issues after awhile. It's great for truck beds and utility trailers. Find a Napa that sells paint, their house brand stuff is actually Sherwin Williams and is decent stuff and pretty inexpensive. If you don't have one close buy, then get some the Summit racing branded 2k (I believe it's Kirker but have also seen reference to DuPont). Also good stuff for the money, it sands easy and doesn't shrink excessively. If you have a paint store nearby see if they carry Transtar and get some of that 2k primer. Also an inexpensive but good primer. I worked in a shop that we painted all our trucks (not pickups) with Sherwin Williams/Napa products and the stuff worked well. Probably not going to use it on a Concourse car, but its good enough for a "nice" refinish and holds up well.

I've used some of Eastwoods paint products and their primers, topcoats and fillers really are not impressive and for the price there is better stuff around.

i dont understand the need to stretch rod bolts. no other bolts are ,so what makes rods so special

Every bolt is stretched - that is what actually retains the bolt. Rod bolts are just one of the few applications where it's easy to measure the actual stretch. Measured torque is the next best thing when you can't measure stretch directly. Since most bolts are made to one of a couple different industry standards, the engineering has been ballparked so we know that on a particular grade and size bolt that XX torque will = a certain stretch.

Some of the larger MTU engines I've worked on the main studs are "torqued" by using a hydrualic cylinder to stretch it and the "nut" is just spun down to the saddle by hand and the cylinder released. The first time you do one it's a bit unnerving watching a stud that bit visibly stretch! There are other engines that employ a similar process for certain fasteners. Also not uncommon in certain crane applications as well.

You don't need to measure stretch directly on rod bolts, it's just more accurate.

I can see why a shop wouldn't want to mount them, but they won't dismount them? That doesn't make much sense. There's no air in them when you dismount them so whats the risk? Too bad you aren't closer, I'd dismount or remount them for you. I've mounted some pretty old and rotted tires without any trouble for rollers or whatever. That's they the tire machine has a LONG air hose, if it's really iffy I just hide around the corner when I hit the air.