Expect to replace your water heater every 7~10, that's just how it is.  The kind of water heater that lasted 24 years in our old house just doesn't seem to exist anymore.  And - be careful about crowing about DIY and saving tons of money on the local social page.  Lots of cities are requiring permits for this work, even DIY.  There is a lot of hack work and so much unpermitted work causes cities a lot of grief and expense, so you can hardly blame them.  I see it a lot here.  The city did streamline the permit process so they try to make it as easy as possible.

And yea, we had to go house insurance shopping this year.  The existing company - Hippo - went up and re-set the type of coverage.  Basically, the adjustment for deterioration would have made replacing our $10K+ roof all our expense after about 10 years.  Hail storm at year 11 - on you, buddy.  Not gonna do it, wouldn't be prudent. I think State Farm wrote a decent policy and the only agent that responded to requests for quote is 400ish miles away, go figure. In Houston, where rates are way high thanks to repeated flooding and potential hurricane damage.  Here, all we have to fret about is giant hail and tornadoes. My wife, who is from New Mexico, gently reminds me that "they don't have those problems in Albuquerque..."    There may be another shop build in my future LOL.

One trick, if you are not pulling the galley plugs nor taking it apart - is to put the oil pump on, temp hang the pan, put some diesel in the pan and run the pump while rotating the engine. 

If you wipe the cylinders with white towels and ATF and you find gray, I would highly-highly recommend taking it all apart and scrubbing the hell out of it. A 5 gallon "Homer bucket" with a warm water + hefty dose of Dawn dish soap, an array of nylon bristle brushes and a water hose with a sprayer and have a scrub-a-dub party.  The blow it out with air, empty a couple cans of WD-40 in the process with the air to displace water.  Then scrub the cylinders with ATF and white towels until clean.  Some fine particles will get caught in the filter.  But all it takes is a little chunk small enough to make it past the pickup screen and  you'll be very unhappy.  Been there, fixed that - last year.

Couple of small particles from a broken spring seat cup, one which made it to the pump bypass and jammed it partially open.  Had about 5 psi on the gauge when driving it into the trailer. 

Former parts guy here - before the computers, when you needed to know what line carried what so you could get in the right book.  Also computer guy, no stranger to quirks in the search engines and part store web sites returning lousy search results.  NAPA seems particularly challenged in this area sometimes. I probably have 10 or 12 vehicles in my O'Reilly's account for hunting things. Remember that now, with very few exceptions, that the counter person is not likely to be a "car person", just a reasonable person that has the job.  So be gentle, they maybe ain't wired like you and me LOL.  Here in smaller town Texas, your more likely to find counter people that do know something about the vehicles.

Years ago with the local Car Quest was forced to switch to the company computer system, the owner saved all the books for me so I have a big collection of the good stuff - mfg catalogs with specs, crossovers, etc.  Makes it sometimes easier to scope out a part and then take that number to rockauto or other places to look.  Still, even with a big Wagner and Car Quest catalog, finding something like a non-power brake aluminum master cylinder is a treasure hunt. 

We have a very complete hardware store downtown and that's where I go for plugs, random socket head cap screws and even a few rod ends of all things.  I just ordered some spindle nut kits - Dorman part - and a rethreading die for 3/4-16 spindle threads.  From Amazon.  I actually found the thread specs on the spindle nut kits on the Summit site, not Dorman, but the min order for free shipping is way lower on Amazon than Summit.  I just didn't need enough to justify a Summit order.  Secured the proper Dorman part number, hit the search engine and came up with the best way to acquire.  I tend to order racing oil from either Summit or Walmart as both deliver and one usually has the best price, and way less than any of the local parts places.  Once in a while I find a sale at NAPA.  The double edge sword of technology. 

Yes, I miss the old days working across the counter a few numbers for when point/plugs/condenser covered 80% of your Ford/Chevy/Mopar customers. I have a few pics from those days, need to find and scan LOL. 

I would only add that 195 is not "hot" and that the higher water temp will transfer more heat out of the engine and the temp differential makes the radiator work better, especially if it's aluminum.  Aluminum dual core radiator and electric fans - I'd run nothing under 195 as a thermostat.  Even my race cars run a 180 because it way easier to control staging temp and keep the engine at an even temp over all with the hotter fluid.  That includes running on both gas and methanol. 

Based on local prices here - and the complete lack of performance auto machine shops except for one maybe two - unless the block is a high value & rare piece, it's not economical to sleeve anything. The sleeve isn't the cost, it's the other setups and machine work that is 4~5 times the cost of just the part.  I'm a 351C guy and I'm slowly switching to 351W base blocks and aftermarket only. The stockers can't take the abuse and it's completely uneconomical now to fully prep an 50+ year old block.

I replace those 100% with either the replacement adjuster the Holley sells or at least with a hex set screw.  Those slotted set screws are junk. Yes, run out through the top, backing out can be an issue.  If it's too screwed up (lol) you'll have to drill it.  It's way, way easier to adjust on the car with a hex wrench, even easier if you replace with the Holley parts.

https://www.holley.com/products/fuel_systems/carburetor_components/brackets_and_linkage/parts/26-137

On my 67 Falcon I use 28x15" slicks on the rear, or Hoosier 275-60x15 drag radials, although I prefer the slicks. The tires are Hoosier 18150D06, 28.00 x 10.00-15.  I run 12 lbs in the tires.  The wheels are 15x8 with 4.5" pack space and a tiny .125 thick spacer.  The inner fender lips are rolled. The leaf springs leave a tell-tale run on the inside sidewall when moving around.  Older M/Ts would grow enough to have rubber deposit on the very rear edge of the rocker panels at the wheel well front.  The Hoosiers don't do that.

Suspension is stock rear leaves (yea, still on Mama Ford parts) with Caltrack bars and Rancho shocks set on 7.  Fronts are 90/10 Comp Eliminator but will soon be Aldan American single adjustable coil overs.  I'll eventually switch to Caltrack monoleaf springs in the rear, just because one day those 57 year old springs are gonna do a Blues Brothers complete disintegration one day LOL.  With good air and a good bite, it'll leave with about 1" air under the front runners.  Car runs 7.3x~.4x depending on where we are and the density altitude.  Eventually we should pick that up about .75 with a new motor.

Car weights 3250 with fuel and driver.  DR use 16 lbs.  On tracks with minimal prep and/or way hot humid conditions like we have here, it's slicks.  Roll gently through the water past any puddles if possible, burn until bite - maybe 5,6 seconds - then stage.

Really like that body style - if I didn't have my 67, I'd be in one of the 64 or 65 units.  14:07 in video, it's a SBF of some sort, towers still in the car.  I'd expect that - you could squeeze a 363 or so in there with a 8.2 deck and not have to hack the towers. Got a vacuum pump and probably a 750ish Track Warrior carb and Trick Flow heads.  Looks like stock chassis with just an 8 point bar in it.  A1000 pump in the rear so they have plenty of fuel for whatever they want to do with it LOL.  Braced 9".

1.66 60' - that's either a really light launch or a way too tight converter.  7.49 @ 92 says it has more power, but not a whale of a lot.  I can run 7.50s all day at 88ish.  92 would be 7.30s/.40s or so. 

There's a 64 in a driveway here that's been sitting 20+ years an is full of poop and trash.  Love to save it, can't get contact with anyone.  Taxes on the house paid by a remote relative that refuses contact.  It'll end up crushed as the city cleans up abandoned cars.