On most of my 351Cs I've just painted a rebuilt damper semi-flat blank, installed, verified TDC, cleaned the damper surface and installed a Moroso timing tape. Removed the damper, gave 'em about 3 coats of clear spray and done.

It's been easy 20 years, but I used these guys to rebuild one - https://www.damperdudes.net/  It's still in good condition, even after being raced.  I switch to SFI type dampers if I'm going to be approaching 6500 or better on the track.  I've been around a cast iron ring separating from the center crank drive and it ain't pretty.  Been really close and damn lucky on two occasions. 

That convoluted road up to Albuquerque Dragway has to be the most round-about access to a dragstrip ever.  Have not been on the track, it was closed when I checked out the route.  Which is also nuts because there's no good place to turn around at the gate.  Big drop off on the north side of the road ready to take you out LOL.  Sounds like a fun trip!

"Slow FE" at the drug store

What Jay said - I have one with a double top.  Single top is "what a waste of time" IMHO LOL.  I'd value the base at maybe $200 - personally, If I bought it I'd put the top in the attic where I'd forget about it.

Here's mine in it's natural setting with a couple of 600s on top.

IMHO about 95% of YouTube "how to" videos contain more yak time than fact time.  Just tell/show me how to remove and re-install the f$#!kin part and stop going on about unnecessary drivel.

When I had the old 2004 F-150 I had to regularly replace the window winders in the truck.  I found a video from a guy that was like maybe 5 minutes about the entire thing - You need these sockets, this tool, remove door panel like this, remove this, this, this, watch for this, assembly comes out like this, etc.  Done.  There was more pointing than talking.

Sorry, didn't see the q until now!

The stuffers are as-delivered, set in place with Splash Zone Compound and a 10-24 socket head cap screw under to hold in place.  I have seen pictures the ones that bias flow but have not noted that they come from Terry.  As for intakes, I have both a 4V Funnelweb (real, imported from AUS) and a CHI intake and those both fit the stuffed 4V heads and match well with my AFD 3V aluminum heads.  I have a 351C tunnel ram that I've had on the motor but a bit with a couple of "1850" Holleys for fun but never really worked them hard.  The mis-match didn't seem to cause any kind of trouble. If I get serious with the T-ram, I would look for something to fill the bottom of the parts at least an inch or so up to mate better with any heads.  Normal bracket config on the 351C is a 650DP on the Funnelweb. I will be trying methanol - again - this season on the 351C with a custom built 750DP.  A long term wish is the T-Ram with dual Holley EFI units on the 427 9.2 deck Dart build running both a gas and methanol program. 

I have run a 2V funnelweb on the 4V heads with the poor mis-match.  Ran well enough in that condition and it was all I had because the 4V was on the wife engine.  You are also correct, the 2V ports are not even the same.  An intake port will land as you said and in the 2V heads  the floor is way flatter and the short turn abrupt.  Velocity and flow is good, to a point. I have also done the Xcelerator 2V trick LOL.  When people start that "4V port just too big, terrible blah, blah" I just tell them "it's all in the parts combination and the tune up."

I'm running brackets, not Pro Stock so my attitude on port matching is

I've run Howards both hydro roller and solid roller. I have a set of their "6500 RPM" rated hydros that I used on a 351C and a pretty agressive hydro roller for drag racing.  No issues, except they really meant 6500 as the limit LOL.  Might could have spun them higher with a bit more spring load.

"I had a CJ come in, 8 broke, had flat tappet springs, go figure"
That was a huge fail. Somebody tried to cheap out and it cost them big.

I've always used ARP bolt lube and a stretch gauge.  So far (knocks on synthetic material of desktop) so good.