"A case fill or pan fill C4 transmission can be used with this bell and all hardware is included."

Pan fill bells bolt to the case on a C4, case fill bells bolt to the pump.  So what they are saying - essentially - is that their bell bolts to the pump.  I can see that it is starter drilled for both 157 tooth size block plates (case fill) and the 164 tooth (pan fill typically) block plates.   But those are SBF terms and not FE. 

I build my own C4s but I have used parts from both Broader and Freakshow Performance.  Freakshow is right here in town, so Michael gets any of my business that I can't do in house.  I used a JW adapter bell for the PG to 157 th style SBF on my dragster.  Nice part, hefty, expensive.  That plus the custom converter and flex plate chewed up $1000 pretty quick.  And that was 5 years ago.

Already talked to DRE about a diaper - with the 351C and header tube runs to clear the steering and such, it's a no-go.  "Pan" is the word.  I have already modified the center Falcon/Fairlane crossmember to reduce it's size to clear the front deep Milodon pan.  Because of that work, I can pretty easy visualize and fab a pan to cover the front deep sump from the crossmember up past the damper.   But behind the crossmember -   I'm not getting a mental picture of how a pan could fit, sit frame rail to frame rail, and still clear the steering, draglink, etc.  There are a couple of tracks here now where 7.50 and under 1/8 = containment and one track that is slicks=containment. Not to mention that I'd for sure like to keep my flabby butt off the wall, so it's a necessity.  Any hints or help. pics appreciated.

The port match isn't real good LOL but it is a good trick.  I've run a 2V Funnelweb on my 4V when I didn't have anything else available and it worked well enough.  I'd still encourage you to consider the port tongues if rules allow - you'd certainly pick up torque coming out of corners and that should reduce your lap times.  Port work - I did mime in the shoip  - is really minimal on 4V heads.  The final numbers IIRC were 330~340 at .550 intake and right at 200 exhaust at same height.  I run a solid roller 248/254 with .664/670 lift - custom Lykins Motorsports cam.  Drag racing, so the only corner I turn it to gently exit the strip.  If you update your cam, I very much encourage you to discuss your needs with Brent at Lykins - he can get you a stick that works.

A view of my filled intake ports - updating the engine after lunching an oil pump, should be back in the car shortly.  Dufus here misplaced a pushrod so waiting on one stinkin' 8.250 x 3/8 pushrod to come from Summit [facepalm]

I'm a drag racer and not sure what your rules are, but I grind all that under the seat smooth for transition into the port and narrow the guide. I would not put in a larger valve, in fact it's a decent supposition that the 73/74 4V heads with a 2.08 valve might make better torque.  Speculation, but less shrouding and possibly more velocity.  I know for sure putting a 2.19 in a 2.08 2V head is a partial fail due to the 2V port configuration.

If you really want to wake it up and the rules allow, you'd want to fill the port with some port tongues (Terry Parker, et al from AUS) and partially fill the intake to transition to the reduced port entrance.  They reduce the port volume from around 260cc into the 220cc range, more or less

These are for a web site I did for Terry in relation to his Funnelweb intakes, but you get the idea.

I get my AGMs at Sams - decent warranty.  The AGM in the Falcon was in the dragster and has been abused with boost between rounds via conventional charger, etc- no issues in 4 years.

Same - built and broke a few 302s and several 351Cs.  My backup motor is a 302 built in around 1997.  Pretty good little hummer, about 300HP.  65~66 289 block, old TRW slugs and mid 90s ported Lighting heads.  I luv it. 

I typically use the Barry method.  It's quick and dirty - I use Felpro gaskets that spec at .041 compressed.  I'm in the .05x intake range on the 351C I'm building.  And what Brent said - intake chases the piston to no worries there. 

We lost our local Lincoln dealer - it was Lincoln/Mazda until recent. I took all my warranty work there because they are top notch.  The local Ford dealer - not so much.  Oil change probably OK, but the warranty work they did on our 2020 F-350 required two rollback trips to complete, and that's been kinda par for a long time.  The next two Ford dealers are 30+ miles. Lincoln wanted an exclusive location and a new mutil-million dollar build, the existing dealer said "no thank you".  If you want real Lincoln service here, it's 145 miles to the next dealer.