Check the number again...  The Crower website "print your cam card" worked for me even though they no longer make my cam.  I put your number in and it came up invalid which I'm sure you already found.

My car seems to like the VP Octanium.  What ever you decide to use, read the specs carefully.  Some will quote a certain number of "points" increase while others will quote "number" increase.  There are 10 points per number; a point is 0.1 whereas a number is 1.0.   For example, a booster claiming 10 point (one number) increase would take the octane from 93 to 94.  An increase of 8 numbers (80 points) would take the same fuel from 93 to 101.

Have you considered the Tony Branda gauge pod that mounts in the console directly under the heater controls?  http://www.cobranda.com/19cogapod.html

Congrats from another soon-to-be retired aerospace worker!  Are you in the Seattle area or Wichita or?  I'll be retiring at the end of June after 34 years of wind tunnel testing for Lockheed Martin just outside of Atlanta.

I've got an A-1 manual valve body reverse pattern C-6 that I bought in 1997.  It has the "no engine braking" in 1st gear, which I believe is just a one-way sprag.  Kind of surprised me the first time I downshifted to first gear and the engine dropped to idle, very similar to pushing the clutch in on a manual transmission.

But I will say, you've got brass balls for running with cords showing! I've had blowouts at highway speeds with just minimal cords showing (young, dumb and broke), and it is NOT something I care to repeat! I couldn't imagine it at top end speeds.

This burnout was done with cords showing and it was nerve wracking!  It was the end of the 1984 season at Spokane Raceway Park and I wanted to get my burnout photo.  I noticed cords were starting to show so I coordinated with the guy running the staging lanes and the track photographer.  They had me come down just after they announced that the staging lanes were closed.  I went into the burnout area with the understanding that the photographer would wave after he got the photo.  I go through 1st, 2nd, and into 3rd gear and I'm watching the photographer and waiting, and waiting, and waiting.....  I'm expecting one of the tires to let go after what seems like an eternity when he finally waves.  As I look down at the tach, it is slowing through 7000 rpm, much higher than I normally ran it.  I then backed out of the starting area and headed back to the trailer, not wanting to risk running on worn out slicks.

Did Kaase give you any idea of the rpm range, horsepower, or torque?  Someone of his caliber and reputation should be able to provide this information. Particularly important is the torque curve.  The reverse pattern manual valve body transmission is probably not the best choice for street use.  I say that with first-hand experience; any 1-2 shifts above the stall speed of the converter will leave rubber on the street and I don't even have to be into the secondaries.  You need to match the engine rpm range (a function of cam, displacement, etc.) with the torque converter with the rear end ratio with the tire diameter with the type of driving.  I would guess with that cam and displacement the engine is probably 2500+ (maybe a little higher) rpm and up, but as others have indicated, your best advice will come from your favorite torque converter manufacturer.  They know their product and will work with you to determine the best match.  Every time I've contacted a camshaft or converter manufacturer, they were genuinely interested in finding the best match for the application.  Their reputation is on the line and word gets around fast on the internet, especially negative reviews and comments.