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Messages - cleandan

Pages: [1] 2 3 ... 26
1
Boy oh boy have I had one heck of a time trying to source a starter.....Gotta love aftermarket universal parts.
I am working with a 1965, 289 K-code (HIPO), 6 bolt bellhousing, manual transmission, 157 tooth flywheel car.

The starter went bad.
I pulled it and found D3 and D7 casting numbers so I thought it was not critical to this car.....MISTAKE!!!!

I went to O'Reillys and purchased a new starter (They only sell rebuilt starters for this).
It had the word "Ultra" on the box so it has to be good, right?

That starter went right in.....and worked for about six starts....then the bendix failed to engage consistently....back to the store for a warranty replacement.
One day, on a lifetime warranty starter, seems a bit short don't you think.

I get a second starter, same part number, same reman company, same everything....or so it seemed.
This starter will not go into place in the hole of the engine plate.
I fiddle around with it for way too long, thinking I must be doing something wrong....how hard can it be?
Finally I give up and go get yet another starter....one more one day warranty.

The third starter is the same as the second....it will not fit.
This time I get to checking things carefully and I find the nose cone housing (made in Mexico replacement parts) is cast incorrectly.
The alignment ring is about 1/8" out towards the fender side.....and I wonder....Is this for a 164 tooth flywheel?

No way to tell through the auto parts stores because there is NOTHING asking any type of questions regarding flywheels....they did have a designation for K-Code though so I had some hopes.

Well, after three failures I give up on O'Reillys, get my money back, and venture off to NAPA....I called ahead and they had one in stock waiting for me!!! Hey....maybe this is a good sign.

Nope, same Mexican nose cone casting that will not fit....GAWDAMMITALLTOFRIGGEN!!!!!!

I have the NAPA counter guy check a few other starters for similar vehicles and transmissions, using 1964, 1965, 1966 to cover the bases on bellhousing and tooth count variants.

They all list the same part numbers regardless.....GREAT, the computer is lacking in proper info.
The counter guys, who were all over 50, started asking me questions laced with a lot of sassy undertones....Like: Are you sure you know what car and engine you are looking for?
and a few others along those lines.
I answered politely and without adding anything back at them.

Then the other guy asks me from across the counter....."Hey, just exactly what kind of car is this?"
I answer; It's a 1965 Shelby GT350 Mustang....and both of them start in with stuff like.
"No wonder you have the wrong starter, all those Shelby's came with a 427 or something like that."
After a bit more of that style of "help" I thanked those guys and bid them a good day.

Back to O'Reillys to get my core back...and it is gone, or so the guy tells me....crap.

Off to AutoZone, only to find they almost don't know what a 1965 Mustang is according to their computer.
The counter guy literally asked me, "Are you sure its not a Fairlane because we only list a Fairlane for 1965 with a 289?"    whew!
I did ask if they had the Fairlane starter, but of course they did not....no luck there.

Here I am, having screwed myself when I released the core.....I only took it back after the first starter worked, but I did not know it was going to fail so soon otherwise I would have kept it a while.

The search continues, and my knowledge grows concerning how to deal with parts in todays market.

2
Private Classifieds / Re: Steve Magnante's Funny Fairmont for Sale
« on: May 28, 2024, 08:07:27 PM »
What happened to Steve?

3
Non-FE Discussion Forum / Re: Who uses Venmo?
« on: May 19, 2024, 01:06:23 PM »
Doug, you gotta find the payment method that makes you comfortable.
If the buyer will not budge from their prefered payment method it is time to let that deal go.

If the buyer is determined to purchase they will find a way that both parties can agree on.

I have one supplier who insists on using an online only payment I don't have.
We came to an agreement on a different payment method and have been doing business for years now without one single issue.....even if it is a bit slower than the other payment method.

In the end you are in control of how you will take payment, as well as make payments.
If a buyer alerts your gut radar it is time to listen to the gut......The item being sold would be nice to sell, but it is not essential it gets sold to that particular buyer.

4
Non-FE Discussion Forum / Re: 1999 Ranger clutch bleeding problem
« on: May 19, 2024, 01:00:29 PM »
Bob, it seems likely there is a blockage of some type in the fluid path.

Check a few things first.
1) Bleed screw is actually made correctly....meaning fluid can pass through completely.
2) Bleed screw threaded hole is able to pass fluid.
3) Fluid path in the new throw out bearing is open and properly made.
I say this because these things USED to be one of the normal items that was just made correctly and never gave any issue......Not so much these days.
Aftermarket new parts are riddled with stupid issues like this.

Once those items have been proven good then move on to the rest of the system that was left untouched on the truck.

Start with the fluid line....it may have collapsed internally and only gives trouble when under pressure.
I had a line like this years ago.
It looked perfect on the outside.
It allowed fluid to pass via gravity so it seemed "open".
But when pressure was applied a portion of it (inner liner) would wad up and block the fluid enough to cause issues.....OH, and it was a brand new brake line too.

There could be some junk that moved from the bottom of the master cylinder into the line as well. Thos things get a bit dirty and when we start moving things around stuff "breaks loose" and finds its way in the system somewhere else.

Finally, prove the master is still transfering fluid.

5
Non-FE Discussion Forum / Re: Wifes nephew
« on: May 19, 2024, 12:52:26 PM »
Heo, we all get to make up our own minds about the things we experience as we live our life.

Regardless of ones political, social, or environmental stand, it is very important to offer to others an actual experience, rather than being left hearing an often propaganda directed, agenda mindset telling you what things are.

Based on your description of the kids parents it seems plausible that kid has received the Greta Thunberg agenda riddled version regarding vehicles.

Hopefully the kid will, somehow, look into things on his own and learn a more honest story regarding such things.
He does not need to be converted into a gear head, or convinced old cars are good in some instances.
He just needs to see the reality of how others, who are not eco warriors against such things, are still good people enjoying things they like.

Showing people the enjoyment of your passion is one of lifes better aspects.

At the very least, I think you cemented yourself....likely forever, as the "Cool Uncle" who likes to have some fun and might show you a thing or two......just don't tell mom okay.

6
So much has changed over the last four years....I am wondering who are the current good guys building and selling complete 9" center sections?

I am doing a swap on a 65 Shelby GT350 so I want to keep the original center section intact and original.
It just seems easiest to buy a complete center section for this job...partially due to time constraints too.

I will end up with a 28 spline Detroit Locker (or Eaton Truetrac) 3.25:1 gears and a nice case and pinion carrier.

Who do you know that is providing good customer service, good products, and generally ticking the boxes for a good place to do business with.

I know I can go online and find this stuff, but I'm tired of poop head online businesses, so I'm searching for a good place.

Thanks.


7
I am surprised.
After 582 views there is not one single hint, suggestion, useful comment, or name concerning where to find a Weber tuning specialist in the metro of MN.

Interesting.

8
200*F for oil, or water, temps is just fine...no worries.
220*F for oil, or water temps is just fine....but getting up there.
Many choose temps in the 160-180 range and that is not ideal for many reasons...too cool.
But even 235*F is okay for one of these engines.

As long as those temps are under control things are fine.
"Under control" means the temp has been reached but the temp is sustained....not creeping up, or going up, down, up, down, quickly without a peak or sustained temp the engine reaches.

60 weight oil seems excessively heavy.
This is causing a lot more stress on the oil pump driveshaft, and cam gear driving that oil pump.

If your bearing tolerances are correct (depends on parameters of build) you should be able to run a thinner oil with no issues...a 10W/30 for instance.

Switching to a synthetic oil, after break in, is not a bad idea so long as you run an oil with a useful additive package for your needs.....Most synthetics these days are already set for anti-corrosion as well as coating/sticking to metal surfaces to prevent corrosion when the engine sits. Check into the specific oil you intend to use to learn the parameters of that oil formulation.
By the way, those formulations are subject to change every 6 months so check up on that from time to time to know what is in the oil....this stinks because it is effort we should not have to deal with, but it is the realities of engine oil these days.

Concerning your temps with the oil cooler....They do seem a bit high at 230*F while using an oil cooler....Maybe your oil cooler is too small, or not working efficiently.
But then you say you have the solid block so there is less water in the block taking away heat.
Again, as long as temps are under control it sounds fine.

If you are not running a T-stat with your oil cooler I suggest you install one.
With the T-stat you have better control over the oil temps, which serves the engine better.
Set the oil cooler T-stat around 195*F (meaning it bypasses the cooler until temps reach 195*F)

9
Private Classifieds / Re: Mallory Dist advance springs
« on: April 30, 2024, 08:57:52 AM »
JumpinJim, what specific springs are you looking for?
I have a complete YL I used to run in my 428 and I have some extra springs in my tuning kit.

Let me know what springs you want and I might....might, have them available.

10
Non-FE Discussion Forum / Re: 600 HP snow gas engine
« on: April 26, 2024, 11:18:35 PM »
Imagine your daily work as the shop oil boy and this engine is providing power to the main shaft for the whole shop.
There must be 50 oil cups on that engine, not to mention all the exposed oiling needs as it is running.

I was surprised how fast they got it turning with that 38 foot stroke....okay, maybe its not really 38 feet, but it is a long, long stroke.

11
I have had great results with circulating the air under the car while it sits.
This ciruclation does not have to be much, no wind required, just moving the air to keep stagnant air from allowing condensation.

This works with tool boxes, shelves, and other areas where stagnant air collects.

Just keep the air moving just enough to exchange the air.

12
Non-FE Discussion Forum / Re: braided hose
« on: April 15, 2024, 09:03:56 AM »
Yes.
Find a place like Pirtek and have them make you a proper hose.
https://www.pirtekusa.com/

I don't know if you have this company where you live, but I bet you can find a similar type outfit.

They will make a hose for you to fit the application specific needs.
They will use hydraulic fittings and tools to build the hose to withstand the pressures.

What specific hose, and specific fittings are currently being used?
Pictures are good, and brand names and part numbers are even better.
I want to see the bare fitting, as well as the bare hose please.

There are a number of different stainless braided hose styles and fittings and some of them just won't work for this type of use.
Even if the hose is rated to a certain pressure, the fitting to hose connection may not be adequate.
Let us know what you are using to better help you find a solution.

13
Good afternoon all.
I am wondering if there are any Weber tuning specialists in the metro area of Minnesota.

I have someone asking me to tune their engine with 48ida's and while I have done this a few times before, I no longer have the parts, or tuning tools for this task......

By the way, NEVER loan your tuning tools to a friend because they seem to dissappear...##@@$$%%!!

Anyway, if you know of a person well versed in this please let me know.

Thanks and have a great day.

14
Thanks again....I really do appreciate your input.

15
FE Technical Forum / Re: 69 F250 Highboy 460 Engine Swap from FE
« on: April 13, 2024, 05:57:10 PM »
I am wondering what you are trying to better by installing all the 460 stuff?

I like the 385 engine series, and I have had a few nice 429's and 460's over the years, but I don't see a reason to go through all the swap issues unless you are planning to build a really built engine.

The FE, with modern options, can be made really great, way better than when they were being raced.
Because of this an FE can be built to be on par with a 460 without much trouble at all.

If you have all the stuff I suggest building a 445ci FE.
Spend the money building a good engine while saving the money that would be spent swapping everything over to fit the 460 and associated items.

With the FE there is way less trouble.
Way less fitting.
Way less possibility of little bastard issues getting in the way.
But, with all that said, a 460 can be nicely installed, either with a kit or with home engineering and it will make for a nice engine for that truck.

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