Hot days coming

[Ranch]

Guys, thinking of installing a Holley Sniper EFI, but my problem is I need an other place to install a water temp sender if I want to keep my old dash mounted SW gauge.  The intake is a Ford PI C7 which I would not want to go welding bongs on. So I was thinking, does someone make a Thermostat Spacer that would go between the Intake manifold and the upper radiator hose connect that would accept some threaded holes to install a sender on the hot side of the thermostat hate to have a gauge that doesn't function

[JamesonRacing]

The Sniper has a digital readout of the coolant temperature, so I ditched my mechanical gauge and have the handheld programmer near by.  Kinda fun to watch what the sensors and CPU are doing as well.

[66FAIRLANE]

Heres a link to my install if it is any help.

http://fepower.net/simplemachinesforum/index.php?topic=5429.0

[gregb]

I'm about to run into the same issue, I'm going to use the thermostat housing that has the hole for the ported vacuum switch and just stick the sender there.  If I drill a small hole in the thermostat so something is always flowing I can't see it being a whole lot different than the coolant temp on the manifold side of the thermostat......I'm pretty sure the Holley always runs in closed loop, it just doesn't do any learning til its above a certain temp like 160 or so, that's what I remember when I was researching them.

[Bolted to Floor]

I’ve been thinking about a spacer too. I’m not wild about adding a bung to the RPM intake, but could live with it. I have a BT 2x4 intake that I will swap over at some point that I won’t drill any extra holes in when the time comes. I would like to see a spacer with at least 2 ports. It would allow the factory gauge to work while adding the possibilities of an aftermarket gauge, thermostat switch for electric fans, or EFI.

I’ve been staring at my car and thinking a 1” spacer would fit. The heater hose fitting in my water pump would probably need to change from a straight to a 45 degree fitting to clear the thermostat housing after its spaced out.

[Ranch]

John, that is exactly what I was thinking. A 1" spacer would be plenty and a 45* heater hose fitting. Heck, even if it was a blank spacer I could drill and tap holes the correct size and placement myself, you might need to be aware of the proximity of the sender with the thermostat. 
I really don't want the Holley dash sitting on my floor, I have a 58 Ranchero with a '406' and it's pretty nice so the look is almost as important as the function. 
What get's me is I'm a retired Machinist so 4 yrs ago this would have been a no brainer, water jet the outside shape put a big hole and drill two small holes in a 1" aluminum plate hour done maybe even pretty it up. But now I don't have access to such equipment. 
John we can't be the only ones with this need, you would think someone would come up with this for guy who have older FE intakes with only one coolant access.  I've searched the internet and only chebbies are available, even called a few, no luck
Sorry about the over size pic but I don't know how to make smaller

[Falcon67]

[Drew Pojedinec]

One thing I often do for a water temp gauge.
I will splice a T into the heater core line way back by the firewall.  If it's pointed down it's really hard to notice.
Most mechanical gauges, and obviously electrical sending units will fit in just fine.
I always like using the heater core line as the fluid is moving no matter the thermostat situation.

[BigBlueIron]

Honestly does anyone have a contact at Edelbrock to get all FE intakes changed for another port or even 2.

Working on a 4bbl T intake the other day and it has 3 or 4 ports! After installing gauge and sensor I still had to plug a couple, fine by me!

[My427stang]

I keep adding bungs, but boy would it be easier if Edelbrock did it.  Victors have room for a bung, but RPMs are a little tougher the way they are designed.

The heater hose isn't a bad idea either, but it requires flow to be really accurate

That being said, there are tons of thermostat housing spacers out there, I haven't tried one, but it could be a very easy fix, especially if the dimensions are close from a Chevy.  If there are not, it would be a simple machining process to make one.

[JamesonRacing]

What about adding a sensor bung on the back of the manifold, where the water crossover port on the head is blocked by the intake manifold?

[Bolted to Floor]

Haha.....not in Houston   

[Bolted to Floor]

I'm about to run into the same issue, I'm going to use the thermostat housing that has the hole for the ported vacuum switch and just stick the sender there. 

I did this years ago on Pops old truck. Wasn’t smart enough to drill a hole in the thermostat though.    It could work just fine and a lot of guys are doing that, it bothered me that it was on the wrong side of the thermostat.

What get's me is I'm a retired Machinist so 4 yrs ago this would have been a no brainer, water jet the outside shape put a big hole and drill two small holes in a 1" aluminum plate hour done maybe even pretty it up. But now I don't have access to such equipment. 
 

You got any buddies still there that would take on a “government project” for ya?   

I’ve thought about buying a piece of 1”x4” aluminum flat bar to whittle one out myself, but the thought process is all that I have accomplished!! No material pricing yet. No fancy tools for me either….porta-band, hole saws, files, and a drill press are in my garage now. For a poor boy method, I would have to use something like WD-40 to keep the cutters from clogging with aluminum shavings. Which would really make a mess in my pristine garage!!  That’s really a joke when you look at the background of the pictures I have posted.

Drew, the vintage Air unit in the car comes with a servo motor to block flow in the heater hose, so that option is out for me. I do like the idea of hiding it near the firewall.

Big Blue, add them at the factory….sounds like a great idea to me.

Ross, my coworker is a Chevy fan and brought me water neck housings for the SB/BB engines and a LS that he had. The mounting hole centers were wider on the FE’s. By the time enough material is trimmed off of a Chevy piece, the mounting holes would be open on both ends.

Maybe Jay is looking for another product to manufacture??

[66FAIRLANE]

I’ve been thinking about a spacer too. I’m not wild about adding a bung to the RPM intake, but could live with it.

?? The RPM has two spots or do you need more?

[Ranch]

Hey John I guess I'll have to call in a favor from anyone who is left at the plant.  I'll hand him a gasket for a pattern and ask him for a thickness of of about 7/8", that should be plenty thick enough for even a 3/8 NPT hole, but I believe 1/4" NPT is what I'll be looking for.  Don't know when I'd get it back depends on work load, maybe next month or so.

I don't believe there is a coolant crossover in the rear of the manifold

The heater hose trick sounds good till John mentioned the Vintage A/C even though I don't know how accurate the reading would be.

Thanks guys for your help.           Hope Jay had his ears on