Certainly, I'm no guru but I've had good luck using these settings on street cars I've tuned: 15:1 at idle (keep an eye on the transition slot), main jets lean (~16:1) for lightly loaded cruise, and tune max power (~13:1) using power valves and PVCR (or metering rods/springs). Every car is a bit different, but those are what I shoot for. I know a couple guys that run in the high 17's cruise but they run light, small cars. Extra vacuum advance may help with surge if you go leaner. All that said, I'd shoot for straight stoich (14.7:1) for a baseline cruise ratio, and slowly work leaner from there, watching closely for problems. Fiddling with air bleeds is sometimes easier and more accurate than whole jet changes. Of course all this presumes you've got a clean carb in good repair.
How much vacuum do you have at idle? Initial/total mechanical timing? Total mechanical all in at what RPM? How much vacuum advance (if any, and at what depression)? What temp is your thermostat? What temp does the car cruise at?
Richer than stoich is always 'safest' but you leave fuel economy on the table and if you're running the engine on the cool side, you'll load it up. Of course, I live at 1000 feet elevation on the plains, so going lean on my calibration is rarely a problem during a cruise or road trip, and I don't do much driving of my toys in very cold weather. I tune in the spring or fall for 65F ambient (+/- 35*), 60% humidity (+/- 40%), and a 195F engine (+/- 30*), or just do it for current conditions and expect to correct it later. If you want safe, work your tune for the highest air density you expect to encounter (lowest elevation / ambient temperature) with the engine fully warm, and call that your 'lean' baseline.
What is your home altitude, and how does it vary in your cruise area?
You have a great feedback tool, use it!
