FE rod options?

[HvyFt4spd]

 Thanks Joe, I'm still shopping and chewing on what direction this will take.


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 I must say I'm surprised by the comments of all Ford blue through and through types here but I never told anyone what to think or what to buy. My original post stated that I was aware that the shelf model $450 Scat H beam rods would do the job but I was hoping for an upgrade in the $800-$1200 range. So far Scat and Molnar are all I'm aware of at that cost point and they have the endorsement of several people I respect the opinion of.

Whatever it is you guys do for living that puts you in a spot you feel uneffected by the race to the bottom, I say that's great for you. In my case I'm directly hindered by it and willing to pay up to support other businesses like mine in hopes of a certain quality. When the quality is not there or the price doesn't match the product or application I will certainly buy from whoever and wherever that need is met by best. Home team gets my support first, from the family run market by the shop to made in the US or simply not made in China if at all possible.
 Each and every thing here is built under a different criteria. Some are all Ford etc using only NOS parts. Some are whatever works, some are top shelf for the bragging rights and nothing more but each customer gets what they are after. No matter the request I certainly don't insult them for it. This is for one of my personal cars and all that should matter is that I'm willing to pay for my intent.

  I don't have interest or time to address each point and joke here but one that sticks out being automotive related was the note of Tungstens. Should anyone here be in the restoration field regardless of where it was mined you might notice that points and voltage regulator contacts just don't last any more. I buy NOS even used if needed vs Elchin today. The same is true of Tig electrodes.... My old stock I can sharpen for nearly a weeks worth of 22-18gauge steel welding, buy a new $50 10 pack of today's best garbage results in maybe an hour or so. On stainless and  small items every inch of welding requires a resharpen for the best effort scenario. That or a step up in size which may or may not be the best idea.

[fekbmax]

The same is true of Tig electrodes.... My old stock I can sharpen for nearly a weeks worth of 22-18gauge steel welding, buy a new $50 10 pack of today's best garbage results in maybe an hour or so. On stainless and  small items every inch of welding requires a resharpen for the best effort scenario. That or a step up in size which may or may not be the best idea.
[/quote]

I'm with ya on this..

[scott foxwell]

If you're running BB Chev journals, you could run a set of these;

[1967 XR7 GT]

I am having a set of Pauter rods made for my 427 build. Picture is one of a set I had made for some one in Europe.

Rods are made here in San Diego CA, on my build, I am going for original or US made parts

[Phil Brown]

I am having a set of Pauter rods made for my 427 build. Picture is one of a set I had made for some one in Europe.

Rods are made here in San Diego CA, on my build, I am going for original or US made parts

Kinda hard to tighten the bolts when there made like that though (unless its a VW motor :-) )

[scott foxwell]

I am having a set of Pauter rods made for my 427 build. Picture is one of a set I had made for some one in Europe.

Rods are made here in San Diego CA, on my build, I am going for original or US made parts

Kinda hard to tighten the bolts when there made like that though (unless its a VW motor :-) )

Might have just a little clearance issue as well...

[1967 XR7 GT]

Yes they were for a 2.9 ltr Porsche motor, 5.8" and 2.0" Chevy jrls, and he opted for the ARP Custom Aged 625 bolts. I still on occasion run the early SBC rods and I just flip the bolts. I've used the Pauter rods on several builds.

And of course my rods will have the bolts going the other way, for all of you that showed your concern...

I am having a set of Pauter rods made for my 427 build. Picture is one of a set I had made for some one in Europe.

Rods are made here in San Diego CA, on my build, I am going for original or US made parts

[HvyFt4spd]

Richard,

      Could you share what these cost and if any of them were for the FE journal?  Pauter also makes some serious rockers and the "big block" VW engine so I'm familar with them. The one crank I bought may not be able to be cut down far enough to use the Chevy sizes.

 Thanks, Dan

[1967 XR7 GT]

I've just bought them for 6 & 4 cyl motors, so no not an FE jrl yet. But an 8 cyl set are $1,968.00, but with ARP 2000 bolts, the 625 bolts bumps the price. I would use the extra clamping force of the ARP 625 bolts if the rod & piston combo are heavy and or if I was going to pull some RPM. The $1,968.00 price is for what ever pin size and rod length is chosen. And they take 5 weeks.

Since I am having rods & pistons made, I was looking to go a .990" pin and a 6.7 or 6.8" rod on an FE jrl.

[HvyFt4spd]

Thanks for taking the time here!