My FE Powered 1966 F100 "Project"

[TimeWarpF100]

Wonder if you could have just "killed" the IAC and set idle with the stop screws like a carb.  I do that on my car although I am tuning with an old Fuel-Pro EFI box that is not self learning.
Also wonder if FiTech has all the throttle blades cut on the correct angle (7 degrees if I recall correctly) and level to each other.  I know that the Holley Sniper throttle body has a nicer  - although not as pretty - throttle linkage setup.

Will be doing a bunch more tweaking on system to see what it likes

[TimeWarpF100]

Now THAT'S a proper looking FE!  No doubt Drew will deliver some killer carbs, but don't give up on the Fitech stuff. From watching that episode of Carfix (season 7- episode 9) where Jared and Lou tweeked the dual Fitech's on Jason's Cammer Saleen, it was tricky to set up. But they got there finally. Seemed like it took some setting that went against what the instructions and the Fitech gurus said to do.

It'll be interesting to see how the carbs work in the AZ heat. I ended up wrapping the Holley on my 416 with space blanket to keep it from boiling. 

Have not seen the episode re: Jason's Cammer. Do you have a link to it?

Here's a YouTube link but it's the pay per view kind. 

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=RqP0YhOoObQ

Thanks for the link! Did pay the ransom and watched it.  Lots of BS on that show but subject was good.

[TimeWarpF100]

With the carbs,

I would run initial to get total where I wanted it if not recurving.  However, if I was building the distributor, I would want initial higher, like 16-18 to start.  The old cam needed that more initial than this one, but the big intake and low RPM cruise in OD will want all the initial it can handle.

Your throttle blade challenge is not over with the carbs either, you need to make sure both sets of primaries (and best if all) are not dipping into the transition circuits.

If you are running a vacuum advance later, you have two options.  You could run 16 initial, 36-38 total and then add ported vacuum to the can.  Or you could in your case, run manifold vacuum.  I don't love doing that, but in your setup it could add to the high vacuum mileage and drivability when in OD.  It'd be worth a try.  initial and total stay the same in that case, but you would likely have to lower the idle equally on both carbs compared to with the vacuum from a ported source

Be sure your new gear is at the correct height on any distributor, nothing worse than fragging a motor because a roll pin or gear breaks...

With the EFI  Same goal, more initial timing, equal blade location and as much timing as you can get to it on part throttle cruise

The timing should be set before you do your final throttle adjustments and IAB setup.  Consider the timing as a mechanical function, even though it is adjustable.  Initial and total are hard numbers, then you can tweak how fast it comes in after. With EFI, I would want the crank timing a little lower, maybe 10-12, and then as soon as it fires, idle should be around 20-22.  Additionally , if you look in your instructions, there are a ton of adjustments at different "KPA", these are adjustments for timing at different load based on vacuum.  When vacuum is high, you want more advance, the key focus is your 50-75 mph light throttle cruise.

But then, and what I think is most critical, after the timing limits are set,  I would,  in absolute detail,  learn how the throttle blade, IAB and TPS relearn function works and set them up the way the computer expects them to be set up.  I agree with Barry that two IABs are goofy if that is how it works, IMO, unless there is a reason one cannot open enough or fast enough, which I doubt the issue is. Regardless if that is how the program works, so be it.

In the end, the throttle blades primary and secondary should be matched, and set so that it takes a certain amount of IAB to idle.  Usually, with the IAB unplugged, the engine barely idles, then the IAB adds a little air to get it to the idle speed you want.  This allows it to compensate for things like A/C, PS, etc without being too far open.  Remember, any time you adjust a throttle blade, you have to relearn TPS or it thinks you have your foot on the pedal.  My opinion for later, not having read the setup for yours is.

1 - Adjust blades to match each other without being fully closed
2 - Fire engine, go through setup, to include TPS limits, initial and total timing, and air fuel goals,
3 - Check IAB values
4 - If required, adjust both throttle blades equally (don't screw with initial timing anymore)
5 - Reset TPS values
6 - Check IAB values
7 - Repeat if necessary from step three until you have the proper IAB
8 - Once idle setting is where you want it, start playing with load-adjusted timing (KpA in your instructions)

Thanks a bunch for info!

Have been busy on the Twin Turbo Boss9 build while waiting for the carbs to show.

[TimeWarpF100]

I found a CURE for the bad MPG and constant messing with the 482 vs just driving!

I simply did a 48 hr post on Craigslist and SOLD IT!

That listing was just to please the wife and did not expect it to sell.

Time for that Gen3 Coyote & 10 spd auto. put the rest of $$ left over in bank for other projects.

Edit add: I sold the 482. Keeping the truck

[JamesonRacing]

You sold that drop dead gorgeous truck?  Or the EFI? 

[TimeWarpF100]

You sold that drop dead gorgeous truck?  Or the EFI?

I will update my post

Sold the 482 & EFI along with the Cobra Jet C-6

Dreaming too long about the truck & not enough energy to do another so keeping it.

[Bolted to Floor]

Well......I guess that one way to fix it!!

I was hoping to see you get it all sorted out so I could be taking notes on the FITech system. I would like to use the same thing with the BT medium rise 2x4 I got for Christmas in the next year or so.

I can understand though, they should be fun and reliable to drive.

You mentioned driving the truck across several states somewhere back, will you using some of your new found savings to add air conditioning?? Might be easier than rerouting the belt system on the Coyote for the compressor.

[TimeWarpF100]

Well......I guess that one way to fix it!!

I was hoping to see you get it all sorted out so I could be taking notes on the FITech system. I would like to use the same thing with the BT medium rise 2x4 I got for Christmas in the next year or so.

I can understand though, they should be fun and reliable to drive.

You mentioned driving the truck across several states somewhere back, will you using some of your new found savings to add air conditioning?? Might be easier than rerouting the belt system on the Coyote for the compressor.

I wish I could have afforded to keep it!

Bidding on a couple possible engine combos to replace it with. And yes it will have AC
Next go around. I have all the pieces to build a 410 but it would be stock heads etc. I can
Do a Gen3 Coyote for less than a very basic FE. A new GV OD is near 3k by itself.

In next week if I cannot find a late model engine transmission combo reasonably priced
I will drop in a stockish FE so I can drive it. I think a stockish 410 with a factory.70 Overdrive
Should do the trick at least for now.

[TimeWarpF100]

HUGE roller coaster ride with this truck especially after selling the 482.

Thought I wanted a late model EFI engine as in EcoBoost or Gen3 Coyote but I just could not give up on all the time I spent on truck making it FE.

Decided to just stick with FE once again which I thought no way no how. I already have 2 other FE trucks.

I have a original '66 352 block I will turn into a 410 and it will still have EFI but going a different route.

410 Cubes with hydraulic cam. Will stick with a C-6 but will be a tight converter. Much less time spent leaving the rest as is just a engine/transmission change.  A whole lot more $$ than I wanted to spend but a fraction of the work/time to keep it FE.

Hopefully The MPG double.   

[JamesonRacing]

Glad to hear that!  I understand the attraction of the new tech, but that truck with a FE just seems right

[Bolted to Floor]

Good to hear you will keep a FE.

[TimeWarpF100]

Selling the 482 allowed me to pay off a bunch of bills and pick up a 2018 F150 with only 9,000 miles with $$ left over to build a basic FE for the Orange/White truck. Any longer trips will now be in the late model truck where MPG will no longer matter in the '66. As will creature comforts.

To test out the new truck this past weekend we did a 1200 mile round trip. On 2nd fill we got 26 MPG! (Hand Calc was 25.49) Last leg got stuck in very heavy headwinds but our average for the entire 1200 mi trip was 23.30 MPG, Smooth, Quiet and very comfortable and the new Gen3 Coyote 10 spd combo was wonderful.

Now back to the FE content as machine work for new engine in the Orange truck should be done this week.

[TimeWarpF100]

I just posted on another thread using same photo link and the photo was normal size. Same method here and pics are HUGE! No clue why

[TimeWarpF100]

Decided to restore my '66 F-100 Ranger (factory bucket seats)

Probably the most loaded '66 F100 out there.

Good place is to start with chassis.





Have posted pics of it before but this is what I started with. Very solid AZ truck since new. Drove it bare metal for nearly  2 yrs

[TimeWarpF100]