Hey Guys. Sorry for the late reply. Jay (and others) had suggested conventional all along, so I never went synthetic. I found the oil leak finally. It was the backing plate, Front cover and valve cover junction. After cleaning it well with brake cleaner, I applied TA-31 sealer to the outside to try and seal it up. It was a small leak, but once the oil got hot, much like water, it found its way into all sorts of inconvenient places (Headers). So I can now say the oil leak is fixed and with it the smoking tailpipes!
Now, today, I decided to tackle the gauges. I had hooked up the oil pressure gauge before running the engine months ago, but the others have been sitting in the car unhooked. Today I went in with renewed energy and decided to hook up the remaining gauges (Vacuum, Coolant temp and oil temp).
Skip ahead 2 hours (nothing really threw me for a loop), and I turned the engine over and again.... started right up. At 1000 RPM's, I get 10" of vacuum! Perfect as the EFI system needs 10 to work LOL
The coolant temp is redundant since the EFI system has a temp sensor to control the fans, but it also came on. Oddly, the coolant temp crept up to 210 degrees when the EFI screen was still showing 150 degrees. Large difference, and after doing some reading, I think it may be the ground? I looped all of the power and ground wires in line. starting with the oil pressure gauge, I then piggy backed off it its power and ground to feed the Coolant temp sensor, then likewise from the coolant temp to the oil temp.
The oil temp clicked to life as well, but I was not getting a reading. The lowest reading it has is 140 degrees, and although the coolant temp on the EFI (not the gauge) was showing it at 150, the oil temp was not reading. In reading on Auto meters website, this is fairly common. They say you will not really get a reading until you drive the car. It stated that oil does not heat up as quickly as the coolant. They say if you go out and drive the car for a while and still do not get a reading, then also check the ground.
So there we have it. No oil leaks at the moment, Vacuum gauge showing 10" of vacuum at idle. Timing checked and rechecked and I am at exactly 12 * BTDC at idle with the 18 * stop bushing in. Oil pressure starts out at 75 PSI at a cold start, but goes down to 25-30 when the car reaches temp, Coolant gauge and the oil temp gauge are working (but may require ground wire tweaking), fuel pressure it still at 43 PSI with the key in the on position, but drops a few PSI when the engine starts (because it has a vacuum reference). Electronic interference is still at "0" with the aluminum tape shielding.......
Last thing to do is fiddle with the AFR's but they should be small tweaks since it was really responsive when I was driving it last. Right now, I lowered the Idle AFR to 13.8 from the stock 13.5. Still runs perfectly at idle (not in gear). I will set it a little more rich (13.7 or 13.6) if I have problems in gear. Then tweaking the Cruise and WOT (getting as close as I can and then using the Accel fuel option on the hand held). Really coming together now. Thank you all again for all of your help. Any idea, opinion, tidbit of knowledge..... it all really helps when learning :0)