Well.... This weekend was eventful. It was time to get that darn transmission out for like the 4th or 5th time and replace the locator stud for the hydraulic throw out bearing. Started by removing the X pipe. From there, the Driveshaft needed to be removed. I noticed that 2 of the bolts holding the end caps of the driveshaft were easier to untighten than the other 2. These already had lock washers on them, but a mental note was made to add Loctite when re-assembling (Adding Loctite is going to be a re-occurring theme as we work through this post).
Once the driveshaft was removed, I placed a clear bag over the output hole on the transmission and then wrapped rubber bands around it to catch any trans fluid from dripping out. Once I unbolted the trans cross member, I was able to remove all 8 bolts (with the wifes help again) from the transmission. Again, I noticed that even though all 8 of these bolts were torqued in place (40 ft lbs or so) last time, 3 or 4 of them were easier to unbolt than the others...... another mental note for Loctite.
Finally I put the trans jack under it and wrapped a wratchet strap around it for good measure (which ended up really helping). After a little "lower and back up"... over and over, I had it out. I didn't even bother pulling it out from under the car. I completed surgery right then and there.
From a visual inspection, I got lucky. The stud had just began to work itself loose and in doing so, had just started to "kiss" the pressure plate fingers. There was no damage, but you could see a faint outline of where it had grazed them. Upon comparison of the old stud to the replacement, they were the same size, but apparently the heat of just lightly touching the spinning fingers along with me pushing the clutch slightly bent the old stud! Crazy. Luckily the threaded hole in the spacer plate was in perfect condition. I thoroughly cleaned the new stud as well as the threaded hole in the spacer plate. Then, once dried, I applied a liberal amount of blue Loctite and screwed it into place. For good measure, I took a pair of channel locks and a rubber dish glove (to somewhat protect the stud and also because they are a weird dry-sticky type of rubber that grips really well), and was able to get almost another full turn to a turn and a half out of it. definitely not coming loose! It says dries in 10 minutes and fully cures in 24 hours, but I am giving it one full week.
From this point, it was just reinstalling everything in the reverse order, but this time with LOCTITE! LOL. I put Loctite on all 8 transmission bolts (in addition to the lock washers) as well as Loctite on the 4 saddle bolts on the yolk side of the driveshaft.
While under the car (after soaking up the success of a fun morning), I started to wipe the underside clean. With the car up on the jackstands, I plan to run it for a while and then crawl under it to find the oil leak visually. Its weird because the drivers side seems to be shiny with a sheen of oil, and I cant see just one area it might be coming from. I still think it may be coming from the oil filter adapter and "misting" out, but I will find out this coming weekend. While under the car wiping everything clean with a rag, I started to feel around in the areas I could not see........
Wouldn't you believe it, there was a bolt missing out of each header flange! I couldn't believe it. All the other bolts are tight as could be (couldn't tighten them up at all). Its weird because there is no way to see these 2 missing bolts. They are in the middle of the header flange and the only way I knew they were missing was feeling around. Either way, I grabbed 2 more bolts with lock washers and slowly(and I mean 1/16" at a time) went to tightening them. It literally took an hour or so to install these 2 bolts, but got them as tight as humanly possible for not being able to see them (and barely being able to turn a wrench on them.
Next weekend I am going to plug in the new upgraded handheld (which gives me access to modify a few more fuel features on the EFI) and take it back out for a drive!
