My 427 SOHC Build..... Finally the time has come!

[Heo]

Fantastic that they could solve all this  in the old
days with just a wire and an ignition key

[ScotiaFE]

If you put the meter in series it will compete the circuit.
But once the circuit is complete the meter will read zero
if the actual function took place.

A way to see if a relay is working is use a stethoscope, the auto type with the long probe.
You can hear it click when the function is happening.

[cobracammer]

When I used the volt meter on the pigtail that connects to the clutch pedal switch, it just goes haywire when the key is turned to Start.  It doesn't just go to 12V and stay there.... 

Does this point toward a bad relay?  if the relay doesn't work, the circuit wont complete right?  In theory, with the volt meter probes in the pigtail and the key turned to start, we should get a steady 12V right?

[ScotiaFE]

Fantastic that they could solve all this  in the old
days with just a wire and an ignition key

Or a crank handle.

[cobracammer]

Or flintstones style

[cobracammer]

Found another diagram (just so I know) and the Ignition feed from the BEC to the Keyed Ignition switch has a fuse in the BEC.  Its Position F4 (Actually right next to the Starter relay ).  I think I have a complete understanding of the complete circuit at this point.

[WConley]

That Clifford aftermarket alarm is not helping anything either.  Years ago when I bought my Ranger new, it had factory anti-theft.  Of course the dealer added an aftermarket alarm on top of that (which I told them to remove and deduct the price from the contract).  Of course they didn't remove it, but that's another story...

The aftermarket alarm did not play well at all with the factory system.  About once every ten start attempts, despite the factory key fob doing its job, the Code Alarm would disable the truck and the siren would go off.  Then I'd have to manually reset the aftermarket module and it would be OK - for awhile.  Two different systems trying to keep your car from starting does not a happy car make!! 

If it was me I'd take the Clifford system out of the equation. 

[My427stang]

I agree with Will.

Also, even after this is done, go buy a decent test light

[cobracammer]

As a side note.  I have scoured all of the wiring diagrams for this car.  The yellow wire hanging beneath the passenger dash is not an OEM wire to any of the harnesses.  Its possibly the Aftermarket alarm or the aftermarket stereo (neither are items I installed).  That wire is bothering me less at this point.

Let me please also apologize for my blatant stupidity in electrical.  After thinking about my little diagram above, I realized most of that is Power (if not all) and not ground.  Then I was thinking about how I was using the volt meter....  Take for instance the pigtail after removing the clutch safety switch.  the pig tail has 2 wires.  Power coming in and power going out (after you press the plunger on the switch).  I was putting one lead on one side and one lead on another side.  But really I should have just used the red probe (+) and with the black probe, grounded it to the chassis?  With the switch disconnected, I should get 12V while trying to start and nothing when I am not trying to start (on one side)  and nothing at all on the other side when tested separate since that is power out.... so even during cranking, the circuit is not complete and no voltage is present.

On the switch itself, since I was testing Ohms, I was doing it correctly...  one lead on one side of the switch and one lead on the other side.....  testing for Ohms.

Let me add that one (sadly) to my hot rod resume!  Sorry Guys....  should make a little more sense now when I test these issues and post results.

The same should go for when I test the fuse at the fuse panel.  the SJB in the kick panel should only be getting power when the key is in the start position.  with the red probe on one side and the black probe grounded to the frame, I should get 12V during cranking but nothing during all other positions of the key (or without the key). 

I think the trick here (and has always been for me) to learn how to do something, sometimes through trial and error....  while breaking as few things as possible to keep costs reasonable  HAHAHAHA

[Leny Mason]

Is there a chance you have the wiring harness bolted between the engine and the bell housing  causing a brake in the wiring to the starter I have seen it many times and even started it on fire it was an S10 blazer, just a thought. Leny Mason

[cobracammer]

Hi lenny.  I dont believe so.  There is room there so I can see ariund it pretty well

[cobracammer]

Ok guys.  Tell me what this means.  With volt meter on DC, I get 12.2 volts at the battery ( a little lower than 12.4 when I started testing all around a few weeks ago.

Now, step 1 is the fuse at the SJB kick panel.  It gets power with the key in the Start position.  Testing with volt meter, I get 11.39 volts trying to start the car.  Repeated 3 times and all 3 identical results.  Then on to the Starter safety clutch switch.  Also 11.39 volts with key in start position and nothing on the other lead ( which would be normal since its a switch.  11.39 isn't 12 volts   .... Is my Optima red top $200.00 battery bad???  Lol  enough juice to make relays click but not enough to activate the starter?

[My427stang]

Volt meter baloney, shiny objects.....ARRRRRGH   

The starter will do something with 11 volts, may not crank, but it would react.  If you are concerned, hook a set of jumper cables to it, that will tll you immediately, the car should start.  Batteries do go dead, doesn't really mean they are junk.

If you unhook the small lead to the solenoid, and your wife turns the key to start with the clutch in, does it have power to it?  We know the starter is good, so my guess is no

So, if  not, work towards the key.

If you have power to the clutch switch, step on it and see if you have power out. If you do, follow the wire further on down. If you don't replace the switch

[cobracammer]

Jumped the starter with a screw driver.  The starter works for sure.

[Heo]

Let me tell you a story about Volt meters or a digital multimeter
My Galaxie  before i owned it had no brake lights. They spent a
whole day chasing some mysterious fault in the electrical system
12.something reading in the brakelight socket with a shiny new
super duper multimeter from the electronics company a friend
works at. New bulbs, still no brakelights.I asked if the had tested
the bulbs, Noo they are new,  I tested one on the battery nothing
wrong with the bulbs then i tested the socket with a test bulb,nothing
they showed me 12.something with the multimeter
I pulled the cables from the brakelight switch and cleaned them. Voila
brake lights The multimeter was to sensitive made for measuring microamps
the bad connection let through enough to trigger the multimeter but
not enough to light up the bulbs