My 427 SOHC Build..... Finally the time has come!

[My427stang]

I'd like to just repeat what I said and then I will be quiet

When compared to the speed of the original modern pump that came on your car....the larger driven pulley diameter will only slow the pump down if the drive pulley is the same size as the original, which my guess is it isn't.

I am not sure it's critical, but until you calculate the ratio between the two pulleys and compare it to the stock ratio, you won't know how fast the pump shaft speed is compared to when it was stock.

[cobracammer]

Hi Ross,

As soon as you posted about this yesterday, I went on another little mission.  I was trying to find specs on the OEM Saleen engines Drive pulley (Crankshaft pulley).  You would not believe how hard that is  LOL.  Since I no longer have the engine, I may have to reach out to the Saleen Forums.  I am sure since Saleen replaced a lot of the stock pieces with performance pieces, a regular GT engine pulley would not be correct.  I am going to try and either email Saleen Directly, or see if I can get a measurement from someone on their forums.  Then I can compare it to the Drive pulley dimensions on the SOHC.

Thank you for speaking up again!  I appreciate all of the assistance.

[cobracammer]

Ok so, still brain storming on the pulley fitment and came across this online:


A few questions...
The adapter is for 5/8" diameter shaft.  5/8" is 0.625".  Now the OEM pulley has a shaft bore diameter of 0.629.  Is that close enough to be good for press fit?

Another question is that the OEM pulley is steel and the new v belt is aluminum.  Will this cause an issue?  I was thinking it would be fine as the adapter above is steel as well.

[jayb]

A press of 0.004" is a lot, but its close enough to try, and the new part could probably be reamed a little larger if necessary.  Aluminum and steel pulleys will mix just fine.

[cobracammer]

Thanks Jay.  I will pick up the adapter tonight.

[sixty9cobra]

Do you have the tool to remove and press on the pulley? If you don't I will gladly lend you mine.

[WConley]

A press of 0.004" is a lot, but its close enough to try, and the new part could probably be reamed a little larger if necessary.  Aluminum and steel pulleys will mix just fine.

You'd have to heat the hell out of that hub with 0.004" of interference.  I'd be more inclined to have it reamed to 0.001" of interference.  Your typical threaded installation tool should handle that just fine.

Best of luck getting everything together!

[cobracammer]

Thanks guys.  Ill try heating prior to installation.  If too snug, then i'll get it reamed.  The pump came with a small installation kit ( bolt and washer) but with the small tolerance, ill use a pulley installer which is a little more heavy duty.  Given the pulley is aluminum, how hot should I get it and for how long ( bake it in the oven)?

[My427stang]

You don't need to get it much over 160 degrees to open up significantly.

I'd put it in the oven at 200, and let it sit there for a bit.  Another option is to just hold a heat gun to it

Hot you may not need any tool at all, it may just drop on

[cjshaker]

I would bake it at about 250-275 for 15-20 minutes, or until lightly browned, then add seasoning. A light tangy sauce and you're good to go

[Nightmist66]

I'll side with Bill C. on this one. I don't like adding significant heat to any part that is in close contact with a seal. IF you were to heat it up and slip it on, be sure to cool it down very quickly, before the heat transfer gets to the seal. If not, you may be repeating the process. The safest way in my opinion is how Bill mentioned with the .001-.0015 press-fit and installing with the special tool. FYI, the "install tool" that comes with the part is junk IMO, it usually gets the pulley halfway on or so, and then stops working. I use the Lisle 39000 tool at work and love it.

Good luck, can't wait to see it go down the road.(Please take a vid or two or more)

[Barry_R]

Four thou is a pretty hard press fit.  You'd probably burr up the inside diameter if you were able to get it on.  Should target maybe half that much or less.  But taking a thou or two off the inside diameter of an aluminum part is also pretty easy.  Could probably go "caveman" on it with a flapper wheel on a die grinder or drill and remove that in a pinch - and still remain within whatever the runout spec is on the part.  Might also give yourself a small lead in chamfer if they have not already done so - helps it go on straight.

[cobracammer]

Thanks Barry.  I was reading about someone using a flapper wheel to get the extra clearance. May try that along with heating. Good to know!

[cobracammer]

Ok Just a small update.  Still awaiting power steering parts, so I wanted to button up the back end.  Used break cleaner to clean up the bell housing backing plate, and the flywheel.  With all the instructions laid out in front of me, I got the flywheel, clutch, and bell housing installed.  The only thing that was bothering me was the fact that there are no torque specs for the bolts for the bell housing.  All of the bolts have lock washers on them, so are torque specs not necessary?  I read the instructions and searched online but could find nothing.  Thoughts?

[cobracammer]

Home sweet home!  Lastthing I wantedto do before I put the engine back in the car was to install the starter.  Its a real pain to do it after with that tinyengine bay, and impossible toget a torque wrench in there.  I used 3/8 grade 8 bolts with lock washers and torqued them to 35 ft lbs.  nice and snug, and still enough threads poking out of the other sideto allow me to run the ground wire from the starter to the frame.

Next step will be installing the transmission and driveshaft.