My 427 SOHC Build..... Finally the time has come!

[philminotti]

Not to insult anyone, but that combo is worth only slightly more than your engine.  Just sayin'....

[WConley]

Agreed!  The gent offering the trade was obviously looking to score for himself.  Unsolicited offers like this mean you're doing something right

[cobracammer]

Also agreed,

Working on the coolant system hoses.  Quick question, I have a remote coolant reservoir that has to be T'd into a radiator hose.  Would you want that T'd into the upper radiator hose of the lower radiator hose?  I would guess the upper hose only because if it was mounted to the lower hose, the Cammer engine water pump would suck the reservoir dry.  Is my thinking correct?

The Saleen remote coolant resovoir has a feed line that is T'd into a coolant hose and an overflow line that is connected into the radiator.  The coolant reservoir is used to fill the system with coolant.

I wanted to get this hooked up so I can get some antifreeze in there.  Ordered the T, but just needed to find out if it should be connected to Top or bottom radiator hose

[WConley]

Jason -

That coolant reservoir really wants to be at the highest point in the system.  Aside from being the fill point, it also collects all of the air bubbles.  At Ford we called these "Pressurized De-Gas Bottles".  With modern cars and their low hoodlines, it can be a challenge to keep air bubbles out of the coolant loop.  That reservoir helps a lot.

So yes, you do need to tee it into the upper hose.  Find a mounting point that puts the top of the tank at least as high as where the upper hose meets the intake elbow.

[cobracammer]

Thanks.  Yes the way the Coolant reservoir sits, it would be the highest point in the coolant system.  I just spend a good 45 minutes looking up the coolant system on 2005 4.6L modular engines, and it seems the coolant flow is reversed in these engines.  This is why originally, the coolant reservoir T'd into the lower radiator hose (And this is why the thermostat was in line with the lower radiator hose.  Thank you for confirming.  I will just use my Bypass T fitting and hook up the reservoir to the upper hose and I should be good to go.

[cobracammer]

Just another update.  I was able to use one of the multiple belts ordered from V belt supply global to work with the alternator  It ended up that the 41" seemed to work the best.

The 45" (which was the largest belt I purchased), was still too small to get around the power steering pump.  With this type of pump, like I stated before, there is very little adjustment swing.  I ordered the next size, which is 45.5" (with the correct width) and I will still need to unbolt the pump, then hook the belt around, then rebolt the pump and try and tighten it.  Hopefully the 45.5 Will work. 

I took a few minutes to talk with the Hydraulic hose shop down the road.  He is very helpful, and after speaking to him about this project and the possibility of rigging something to work, I had the idea to order a 1963 Galaxie FE power steering hose (pressure).  it was only $19, and the shop will be able to cut off the crimp and use their screw in fitting.  He will also be able to cut the fittings out of the 2005 Saleen P/S pressure hose and make one custom line that works with the 2005 Rack and the 1963 Pump.  His hoses are rated to 2600 PSI as well.  If I get the delivery from Napa by Friday, I will run it all over to him by Saturday to get it put together (fingers crossed).

I also remembered that there is a vacuum reference barb on the fuel pressure regulator that needs to be referenced off of one vacuum port on the throttle bodies.  I uncapped 1 port on the throttle body and oddly enough had a perfect sizes piece of vacuum hose from the twin Paxton 68 Mustang fastback car.  Check and Check!

This Weekend I am going to pick up a "red top" optima battery and turn the key on for the first time to check for fuel system leaks!!!!  Exciting.  If nothing, Back seat goes back in

[jayb]

Usually the vacuum reference on a fuel pressure regulator is used for boosted applications only; are you sure you need to use that?

[My427stang]

Usually the vacuum reference on a fuel pressure regulator is used for boosted applications only; are you sure you need to use that?

I actually drafted up a post and wondered whether it was worth bringing up and deleted it

You are right Jay, he shouldn't need it without boost and potentially it could reduce fuel pressure at light throttle. 

The reason I didn't post was 15 inches of mercury isn't much (compared to 15 PSI of boost) and won't change things too much at idle and of course as it goes to zero at WOT it won't do anything at all.

In the end, it's sort of a waste of vacuum line, I can't imagine he'll have that much idle vacuum anyway, so it will ultimately be the same as not being connected

[cobracammer]

I didn't know either way so I called the tech at Jegs.  He confirmed that I needed to connect it to one of the throttle body vacuum ports and keep the other ports plugged. (I had originally thought I needed to reference them both by running a T off the Regulator to each throttle body.

I actually found this on Aeromotives site (Even though its a FAST regulator), so I think I will definitely recap the throttle body vacuum reference port and leave the barb open to atmospheric pressure:

6. What is the barb fitting in the regulator cap used for?  How and where should it be connected if I  use it, and what should be done with it if I don’t?
All Aeromotive, carburetor bypass regulators incorporate the necessary design to allow the regulated fuel pressure to be vacuum or boost referenced, on a 1:1 ratio.  For “blow through carb”, forced induction applications, where a turbo or centrifugal supercharger pressurizes the carburetor through a hat or in an enclosure, the regulator boost port should reference to positive pressure only, not vacuum.  connect the port to the carburetor box or hat, not the intake manifold.  For carbureted, naturally aspirated engines, and for roots supercharged engines where the blower draws through the carburetor, the vacuum/boost reference port should be left open to atmosphere, never plugged.

 There is one potential use for referencing fuel pressure to vacuum on a naturally aspirated (not blow through) carbureted engine; where alcohol is the fuel of choice.  In this case a line from the regulator to the base of the carburetor, beneath the throttle blade into the intake plenum, can be used to lower idle fuel pressure and allow higher fuel pressure to feed the carburetor at wide-open-throttle.
- See more at: http://aeromotiveinc.com/frequently-asked-questions/faq-carbureted-regulators/#sthash.G3bZOx4c.dpuf

[My427stang]

Just make sure you set the fuel pressure you want for WOT (generally 45-50 psi, use FAST's number) with it unhooked, or the engine off.  If you do it with the engine idling, when the you crack the throttle it will slightly add pressure and require the ECM to compensate

In the end, it is a minute difference, but if you are going to do it, may as well check it

[cobracammer]

how would you set the Fuel pressure with the car off?  Wouldn't the pressure gauge read 0 with the pumps off?

The directions tell you to hand tighten the adjustment screw to the bottom.  Then you can open it as needed to get to 43 PSI and then tighten down the locking nut.

My thought was to have everything hooked up, put the key in the acc position with will turn the pumps on, then turn the adjustment screw slowly while watching the gauge until it gets to 43 psi and then lock it down with the lock nut.

Is there a different way I should do this?

[cobracammer]

I just went back and re-read the instructions for the FAST EFI setup, and it says that it needs the vacuum line reference run from the regulator to the manifold reference port on the throttle body.  These throttle bodies cannot be used with turbos or superchargers, so even though its not normally done, I think I will listen to the instructions from FAST and just leave the line hooked up.  I guess FAST is just "special"  hahaha

 

instruction are on the tab labeled at the bottom :  http://www.jegs.com/i/FAST/244/30226-KIT/10002/-1

[cobracammer]

OK!  some good news and multiples of it!

Last night I got the 45.5" v belt delivered.  I looped the belt around the crank pulley, water pump pulley, and finally the P/S pulley (the power steering pump had to be completely unbolted and detached to get the belt around.  Then, with the belt on all 3 pulleys, I bolted the pivot bolt on the P/S bracket to the water pump (loosely).  With the belt slightly tensioned, the adjustment bolt hole at the top of the bracket was aligned!  I then pulled up on the power steering pump to put a little more tension on the belt and tightened the top adjuster bolt and the center pivot bolt on the bracket.  Finally, the alternator and P/S belts are on!  It just barely cleared the lower radiator hose, so I may do a little turning and maneuvering of the hoses to give myself a little more space before initial fire up.

Then, a little weary, I was dying to hook up the Optima red top battery and test out the electric/ fuel lines.  I, of course, was thinking I was going to hook up the battery and smoke would start to come from various wire bundles and I would be screwed......

but here I was, attaching the terminals .........

Suddenly the car sprang to life!  I heard a click, the interior light came on (had the door open  Lol), opened the door and the bell was dinging.....

Then came the ultimate moment of truth.  I was going to turn the key to "acc" and make sure the fuel pumps work, fuel gauge worked, and that there were no leaks in the new fuel lines run..... and get the regulator pressure dialed in.

I literally turned the key expecting a fire  HAHAHA  Not much confidence I know.

Instantly, the pumps were-a-humm'n.....  Dash lit up and the gas gauge rose to 1/2 tank (sounds about where It was when I started this project a year ago  LOL)....  fuel regulator was reading like 20 PSI, so I adjusted it to 43 PSI and  not a single leak!!!!!!  fuel return was pumping right back into the tank (could feel it in the return hose).

SUPER SIKED!!!!!  Back seat is going back in tonight and I am going to call the flatbead to take the car over to the header place prob one day next week!  I am so close now I can taste it!!!!!!

[ScotiaFE]

Sounds Great!
Dump that old gas and get some fresh stuff for the big day.

[cobracammer]

I think I will.  Its always gotten 93 octane and before I began this project, I put a half bottle of Fuel stabilizer (Stabil) in the tank.....  But there is a gas station (Cheveron) down the street that sells 93 and 94 octane fuel.  Never saw 94 octane fuel at the pump before, so maybe a fresh tank of that sweet goodness will do!