My 427 SOHC Build..... Finally the time has come!

[cobracammer]

Hey Ross,

Yea I only put those clamps on the pushloc portion because it makes me nervous not having anything holding that hose on there (even though that's how they were designed).  I figured since I have plenty of those clamps, and since it wont hurt the line, the more secure the better.

As you said, a braided steel fuel and return line with the locking fittings would be ideal.

This weekend the radiator shroud came with the 2 -13" electric fans......  Holy cow, perfect fit!!!  still have like 1/2" between the fans and the water pump pulley.  Got the Alternator belt and P/S belts measured up and ordered from NAPA online.

Finished the wiring of the Fuel pump relays and harness......  Still going to leave the back seat out until I can get some power to the pumps and make sure I have no leaks.

Rolled the car out of the garage since it was such a nice weekend and gave it a wash and wax.

[cobracammer]

Also forgot to mention this weekend....  I was afraid that there was a possibility that the fuel out line might have a bend in it (restricting the pumps and flow) just given the angle and lack of spacer between the fuel hat and the car body.  There is so little room to see, I had to turn the video feature on my iphone with the light on to be able to see under there.  The return line is perfect.  Has a nice arc to the line and its not kinked.  The fuel out line seems to have a small kink in it.  Im certain that this will not be good, so I picked up a 90 degree bend fitting so the hose can come in at a better angle and thus get the kink out.

I was thinking about what ross was saying in regards to the AN fittings that screw on to the hose....  So I went on Jegs and tried to recreate the fuel lines with these fittings and new hose....

Where I run into a problem is that the throttle bodies on the FAST EFI are -6AN..... the fuel line out of the hat is -10AN  LOL  so I can run 10AN fittings and line from the hat to the throttle bodies, but then cant find any fittings to go from 10AN to 6AN without using like 2 different reducers....  Which I think would cause weak spots?

I would assume that the return lines from the regulator will be fine as it since they wont see the same pressure (and I used high pressure EFI fuel line anyway).

On another note, I really am totally out of my league on the headers.  I got a referral to a place right around the corner who wants 1800.00 for raw steel long tube headers, and needs the car for 3 days.  Perhaps I just eat the 200.00 on the Hedmann headers I bought as donors.  I think my life would be 10000000 times easier to just have the headers built.  Want to start this engine soon  LOL

[ScotiaFE]

As long as one of the days is not testing your Hot Rod.
Is it really a Saleen anymore?

[Drew Pojedinec]

Where I run into a problem is that the throttle bodies on the FAST EFI are -6AN..... the fuel line out of the hat is -10AN  LOL  so I can run 10AN fittings and line from the hat to the throttle bodies, but then cant find any fittings to go from 10AN to 6AN without using like 2 different reducers....  Which I think would cause weak spots?

http://www.summitracing.com/parts/sum-220044b/overview/

http://www.summitracing.com/parts/sum-220123-b/overview/

they make all kinds dude.  I ran Summits -6 SS braided for all my oil/transmission lines and -8 from inside the fuel pickup to the carbs on my car, no problems.

[cjshaker]

Is it really a Saleen anymore?

Of course it's still a Saleen. Is it a stock Saleen? No, but who here has a "stock" anything? Now it's a freakin b#@a$$ Saleen

It would probably take me 3 days just to do one tube. The guy must have a lot of experience to do a whole set in 3 days. Are you going to ceramic coat them then? I think that would be a very good choice.

[My427stang]

As I get older, or is it way older, I love to throw money at problems instead of fighting them when I can.  However, I rarely can, because not too many guys will be as careful as the guy who owns the car

If you do have the headers built, interview the guy, talk to him, be respectful and make sure he knows what you want.  If everyone is on the same page, you may be happier spending the money instead of the time.  However, if you aren't happy with his work, you will be out the dough and have crappy headers, so proceed carefully and make sure he knows how fussy you intend to be

[cobracammer]

The guy who did the machine work on my block and crank referred me over to who does all of his header and roll cage work.  Place is called AC Carcraft in Coral Springs Florida.  IN the 5 or 6 shops I spoke to before this guy, he seemed the most legit.  Took all of my information, engine type, primary tube dia. requested, material requested, if I had the header flanges or not... etc. and said he would write up an estimate and get back to me. (Most people I called just spit out a number randomly without even asking anything).

Ended up being 1800.00 for raw steel, 2" primaries, and with the assumption I supply the header flanges.  Also they use a flatbed company who charges 50.00 each way (So 100.00 for pick up and drop off).  They seem to specialize in Mustangs and do headers and roll cages.  Of course before I have the car flat bedded over, I will stop in and take a little tour.  Its nice because its like 10 minutes from my house.

I was thinking just to do them in raw steel for now and wrap them in the thermal wrap.  There are a few places around me that do Ceramic coatings so that can "Stay on the table", but stainless steel was about 1,000 more than the quote I got, so that's not going to be an option.

[cobracammer]

Where I run into a problem is that the throttle bodies on the FAST EFI are -6AN..... the fuel line out of the hat is -10AN  LOL  so I can run 10AN fittings and line from the hat to the throttle bodies, but then cant find any fittings to go from 10AN to 6AN without using like 2 different reducers....  Which I think would cause weak spots?

http://www.summitracing.com/parts/sum-220044b/overview/

http://www.summitracing.com/parts/sum-220123-b/overview/

they make all kinds dude.  I ran Summits -6 SS braided for all my oil/transmission lines and -8 from inside the fuel pickup to the carbs on my car, no problems.

I see what you mean.... I believe I was missing the fact that I could remove the fitting that came with the FAST throttle body which I believe is -6An male to -6AN male.... and just crew in one of these.  Thanks, its a little clearer now.  I think because I already purchased these lines and fittings, I will get the car running with them, and then once I have it running, I will swap out the lines for the braided line and screw in fittings.  Luckily this car was super simple to run fuel lines on and swapping them out will prob only take 2 hours or so.

Thanks again!

[cobracammer]

Yee haw  LOL

[My427stang]

The guy who did the machine work on my block and crank referred me over to who does all of his header and roll cage work.  Place is called AC Carcraft in Coral Springs Florida.  IN the 5 or 6 shops I spoke to before this guy, he seemed the most legit.  Took all of my information, engine type, primary tube dia. requested, material requested, if I had the header flanges or not... etc. and said he would write up an estimate and get back to me. (Most people I called just spit out a number randomly without even asking anything).

Ended up being 1800.00 for raw steel, 2" primaries, and with the assumption I supply the header flanges.  Also they use a flatbed company who charges 50.00 each way (So 100.00 for pick up and drop off).  They seem to specialize in Mustangs and do headers and roll cages.  Of course before I have the car flat bedded over, I will stop in and take a little tour.  Its nice because its like 10 minutes from my house.

I was thinking just to do them in raw steel for now and wrap them in the thermal wrap.  There are a few places around me that do Ceramic coatings so that can "Stay on the table", but stainless steel was about 1,000 more than the quote I got, so that's not going to be an option.

I'd test fit them and coat them, 200-250 bucks and you can leave them on for life.  Not to mention the cooler underhood temps.  At this point, waiting for a couple hundred bucks is easier than letting the headers crack, then repair and coat.

[machoneman]

Thermal wrap is a bad idea. Ask you header guy about it for a streeter. Most regret doing so as on cool down, moisture forms between the wrap and the o.d. of the headers, causing plain steel to rust damn quick.

[cobracammer]

OK ceramic coating it will be!

On a side note, I got the 90 degree barb fitting for the fuel hat last night.  If you remember, My thought was that the limited space under the back floor and the odd angle of the straight barb was causing a kink in the fuel line.  I put my Iphone as best I could down the hole to try and film what the hose looked like, and it appeared to have a small kink.  Either way, a $5 fitting would ease my mind.

After I removed the hose clamp from the Fuel Injection grade line, I tried for 15 minuted to pull the barb out  HAHAHA  no such luck.  I snipped the line shorter and installed the 90 degree barb fitting and hose clamp, and now the fuel line has a nice arc and no kink.

Just to know, I continued to try and pull the straight barbed fitting off of the hose piece I snipped off, and I could not get it. I actually grabbed hold of the fitting and had another person pull the end of the fuel injection hose......  Still cant get it  LOL.  And this wasn't even a pushloc fitting!  Just a regular barbed fitting.   There is now no doubt in my mind that with a hose clamp on the barb, there will be "0" chance of a leak.  Super surprised I could not separate them seeing as how the barb slid right in the line with very little persuasion during the original installation.

Either way, 2 positive things came from swapping out the fitting  :0)

Hopefully going to stop by the Header shop this weekend to take a look around and feel the place out.

[601hp]

FWIW, my primary pipes are 20 years old, and I first wrapped them 19 years ago.  They haven't rusted at all.  Prior to wrapping, the pipes were coated with Jet Hot's high temp coating, inside and outside.  If I recall, it was a 1900 degree coating.  I re-wrapped these pipes 2 months ago and they appear to be in very good condition.

The heat reduction in the seating area was so much better AFTER wrapping, compared to when the pipes were only ceramic coated.  The wrap is so effective that I'm able to raise the hood immediately after driving, and can quickly swipe my hand against the wrap and not be burned.

David

[machoneman]

FWIW, my primary pipes are 20 years old, and I first wrapped them 19 years ago.  They haven't rusted at all.  Prior to wrapping, the pipes were coated with Jet Hot's high temp coating, inside and outside.  If I recall, it was a 1900 degree coating.  I re-wrapped these pipes 2 months ago and they appear to be in very good condition.

The heat reduction in the seating area was so much better AFTER wrapping, compared to when the pipes were only ceramic coated.  The wrap is so effective that I'm able to raise the hood immediately after driving, and can quickly swipe my hand against the wrap and not be burned.

David

Like I said above.......plain steel they ain't...at least after they have been coated.

I also have Jet Hot coated headers and the coating alone makes a huge diff in underhood temps, for sure.

[jayb]

I think the bad rap that header wrap (pun intended) got back in the day was on uncoated headers.  I know of a couple of people that had their headers disintegrate after a year or two being wrapped, but that was before good thermal barrier coatings were available.  I think its cool that wrapping coated headers doesn't have the same bad effects; I might try that on one of my cars...