My 427 SOHC Build..... Finally the time has come!

[cobracammer]

Well I believe (and I may be mistaken) that the canister Purge valve has separate lines running to the fuel tank.  It is my hope that when I take out the OEM fuel hat/pumps and replace it with the Division X hat and pumps, that the system currently in place with the Canister Purge valve will be unaffected.  I guess I wont know until I start to pull the stock stuff out.  With Dual fuel pumps, I was hoping that there would be plenty vacuum.  I was hoping that the only thing I will need to do is to plug the canister purge valve harness back into the canister (I am going to make a note to do it this weekend).

God knows that if I did this whole project and the ECU lights didn't light up across the board, I did something really really wrong or really really right.  With so many of the stock engine management harness plus disconnected (i.e. Cam sensors, fuel injection harness, AC coolant sensor plug, and on and on......  I would imagine there is going to be a code or 2  LOL

From what I read online, the Canister purge valve (Which in the Saleen is on the Drivers side shock tower) allows you to fill up the gas tank to Full.  Because the Saleen has a saddle style gas tank, if you have a broken or missing canister purge valve, the gas pump will keep thinking the tank is full and stopping.  Honestly I am sure it does more than that, but I was hoping it would act more like a gas tank vent.  Ill keep you all posted when I install  :0)

[cobracammer]

Another update.  So since this engine is slightly more bulky in every direction sitting in the engine compartment, the radiator cooling far (and shroud) were going to be an issue.  The radiator fan and shroud on these cars are one piece, and to boot, they include the mounting pads to bolt on the Coolant overflow tank and the Power steering reservoir.  I have a tiny bot over 2" clearance between the end of the March pully cap on the water pump pulley and the radiator.  The OEM radiator fan/shround is something like 6-8" wide at the fan motor...... So not going to work.

My first thought was to cut the car out of the shroud, install as usual, and then put a push fan on the outside of the radiator...  But I feel like without a real shroud, I am going to run into cooling issues (especially in South Florida Sun).

Then I thought about 2 fans... the thickest part of the fan is the motor, and the thinnest part is the outer edge of the fan.  If I put 2 smaller fans (side by side) in there, then the Water pump Pulley cap will be at right about the thinnest part.

Finally I was able to find a Slim fit radiator shroud and 2  individual 13" fans (also pretty slim).  I am going to give these a shot, but I am unsure if the roughly 2400 CFM will be enough to cool the big block ford.

I will still need to cut the top off od the OEM fan shroud (maybe the top 4 inches) and mount with the new shroud so I still retain my mounting points for the reservoirs.  Below is a picture of the unit on its way:

[lovehamr]

Jason, I have to ask, what 3/8 line are you running?  Along with that question comes, what fuel pressure will you be running?  I ask because of my experience setting my FE up for EFI.  I'm only running 42psi but I still made hard lines for the long runs fore and aft and use braided stainless with AN fittings at all the flex connections.  I did that for a couple of reasons; #1 safety, don't want any high pressure fuel leaks, #2 possible pressure loss over long runs of flexible line.  Are these even issues that need to be dealt with? I don't actually know for sure, it's just what I saw when looking at my system.

Steve

[cobracammer]

Doing 3/8 soft line but designed specifically for EFI. I will be running 42 PSI, but with twin fuel pumps, i dont think lack of pressure will be an issue

Good news for Today!  Drive shaft came. I cant believe how light it is.  See below. Also reconnected the canister purge valve harness, reinstalled factory X pipe and marked to graft in the new headers, and assembled the fuel hat, pumps, and associated sender

[cobracammer]

OK was able to pull out the back seat and gain access to the panel that hides the fuel hat.  After removing the feed like, and the pin connector, I knocked the retaining ring counter clockwise and freed up the hat to come out.  Before the hat could be taken all the way out of the tank, there is a feed tube that looks like it connects over to the second "Saddle" of the fuel tank.  I disconnected it and tied it up so that it didn't fall back into the tank.  Now the tricky part was getting the new Division X fuel hat in.
The instructions say that you have to take off the fuel sender float arm and then reconnect it down in the tank.  Who ever wrote these instructions forgot to mention that the fuel tank sits at a forward slant from the access hole .  You are not able to put it back together in the tank.  so I had to maneuver it into place all connected.  I guess I will not know until I turn it on if the fuel sender float is stuck or not.

Also, when trying to reconnect the "saddle suction-feed hose" back, I realized that whoever at Division X pressed on the fitting the hose connects to, they must have pressed too hard because the end of the fitting was "mushroomed" and would not go into the connector.  I had to pull it back out, use a cutting wheel to trim off the flared piece (maybe the thickness of a Nickel, de-burr it with a fine diamond file, and clean it off..... then go through the same pain again of reinstalling.  The directions always say.... "it drops right in place of the stock unit" but take my word for it.... Not in this case.

The next portion is the wiring harness for this unit.  Since it is in the trunk on the drivers side against the back wall, I removed the trunk liner on the driver side as well as the back trim panel.

I actually stopped there because I didn't understand the directions and wanted to call tech support before I went snipping wires.  When you install the Division X dual pump hat, you do not use the stock harness connector anymore.  The directions actually tell you to go into the trunk, find the Violet wire, and that wire gets soldered on and heat shrinked into this hefty harness they supply.  This harness in turn has a bunch of relays and then a power wire that runs up to the battery.  What I couldn't wrap my hear around was this:

I disconnected the stock harness to the stock fuel hat before it was removed.  There were 4 or 5 wires on this connector.....  Now when I run the new 6 pin connector in the Division X harness, the only wire I am tapping into in the trunk is the Violet wire....  I didn't understand how the other 3 or 4 wires on the stock harness were no longer needed.

When I called tech support I got an answer.  So apparently the Violet wire is the sender wire (which will ensure my gauge up front works, I am running power wires directly to the battery with this new harness, so I don't need to tap into the module in the trunk for that, I round the harness in the trunk, so I don't need to tap into the module for that, and the relays attached to the new harness take the place of whatever else is left.  Basically he said that the Fuel control module in the trunk is no longer needed, but the new harness taps into it with the violet wire just so the fuel gauge works up front.

We will see I guess.....

Anyway, I am leaving the back seat out until I am able to turn the car on.... Since I will need to check for leaks.

Like so many have said.... these little things add up to be a huge pain in the butt.  Building the Cammer was in essence the easier part  LOL

[cobracammer]

Also just found this nifty piece....  was meant for Edelbrock carbs, but I was told by a tech that Edelbrock and Holley have the same bolt patters (plus they are slots and not holes on the throttle bracket pictured below).  Works with a Lokar throttle cable.... which should make that part a little easier.

[jayb]

That is a nifty part, all right.  Who makes it, and how much does it cost?

[cobracammer]

Hey Jay,

Its about $160.00 with shipping and its made by a company called PRP Racing Products. www.prpracingproducts.com

Hopefully it will make things easier, but I just had to purchase longer carb studs for the drivers side.  :0)

[cobracammer]

OK so clarification on the wiring issue above.  I still thought something was wrong when I took another look at it (even with the tech persons explanation).  So I called again when I got to work the next day.....

Got a better tech, but still doesn't look good for them.

OK so the premise is that this Fuel Hat and harness was designed for a 2005 Mustang GT.

First part of the instruction was to go back in the trunk and find the "Violet wire" on the loom for the PFDM.  Again, since we already went over that there is no Violet wire on the loom for a 2005 Mustang, I called them back.  Tech guy had to call the manufacturer of the actual wiring harness (because I guess the people who assemble it know more than this company who designed it???)  seemed a bit sad.

Finally they told me to snip another color wire.......  LOL  Nope sorry my loom doesn't have that color wire either.  Then I just asked the guy, "Tell me what the function of the wire you want me to tap into is.... and then I will go find a wiring diagram on Google for it."  Seemed easier I think.  Basically they wanted me to tap into (Key on Power) and not the "sender" wire like the first tech said.

The wiring diagram did not show which of these wires was specifically a key on power source. So again the tech put me on hold for 20 minutes while they spoke to the people who actually assemble these harnesses.  Finally they decided that the Fuel inertia switch is the only one of these wires that functions with key on power.  So finally I know now to snip the "WH" white on my FPDM loom and hook into that.

Before the tech hung up, I had another question....  on the end of the harness that plug into the actual DivisionX fuel hat, there are 2 short wires with crimp fittings on them.  "Yellow" and "Black" which are supposed be spliced into the stock fuel hat harness (the only 2 wires needed since the OEM harness for the fuel hat will no longer be used).  As per the instruction, the yellow wire goes to the Yellow stock harness wire..... and the Black wire to the black OEM harness wire......This is actually the sender wires that go to the instrument cluster to ensure the gauge works in the stock dash.

Wrong again!  The sender wires (as per the Ford Wiring diagram and my photos of the OEM harness Loom) are Light blue and Light Green.........So again a few more minutes on hold and now we know (or are pretty sure?) that the yellow wire goes to the Light green wire and Black wire to the Light blue.

These guys really need to get someone to write them better instructions.

[cobracammer]

OK so last night, in preparation for hooking up the last of the fuel system this weekend, I mounted the FAST Fuel regulator/Pressure gauge.  I mounted it right on the firewall-Passenger side-ish right next to the Saleen ID plate.  As the Throttle bodies are sitting in such a way that the inlet and outlet of the fuel rails are facing the passenger side, this should give me the most direct access to the inlet and outlet of the regulator.  I also placed 2 hose clamps on the bridge fuel line that links the 2 separate throttle bodies.  They were push lock barbs, but I just didn't feel secure leaving them without clamps.  I figure 2 clamps will give piece of mind and I have a ton of them.  I will take a photo tonight.

Short update... commute is getting horrible with all of the snow birds down here so I am exhausted after 2-1/2 hour ride home LOL

[mike7570]

Jason, Are you planning on tacking the car to the drag strip at times? If memory serves me right they do not like any part of the fuel system mounted to the firewall.
Mike

[cobracammer]

No.... Just a weekend cruiser

[My427stang]

I don't want to be "that guy" but you seem to have varying hose and clamp design going on.  Some push loc with clamps added, some rubber with clamps.   I know it adds cost but I think for safety and a clean install I would go with a nice fixed fitting assembly like you use with braided even if you use the nice black braided hose.

The push loc is good when assembled correctly, but I have always steered away from it for more than carb line pressure

I bring it up because push loc hoses should not use clamps (although I doubt it hurts it) and the rubber hose is certainly not as strong, but with EFI running at close to 50 psi, and potentially some significant return volume when off the throttle or idling, it's important to have safe connections

[cobracammer]

The rubber hose is specifically EFI hose good to like 70 psi and wasnt cheap. Something like 150.00 for the 2 lines. If they fail, i will replace with braided. The pushlock was supplied by FAST and is just the line that links the 2 throttle bodies together. I do think the braided line would look better though. :-)

[My427stang]

I wasn't really commenting about what the lines were made of, other than the soft line that looked weak and a second  comment that pushlocs don't usually use a clamp.  They are designed to lock in place without one, hence the name

What I was really saying is that I wouldn't use pushlocs for EFI, especially on the pressure side.  I would use a positive clamping style AN fitting.  However, I do see lots of success with pushloc fittings and some can take some crazy pressures, I just like the idea of a threaded collar that holds it to the swedge

Keep an eye on it, it always can be changed.