My 427 SOHC Build..... Finally the time has come!

[cobracammer]

Small world indeed!
Anyway, now that I had some time this weekend, I used the VHT silver/grey for the axle housing and a Black VHT for the 3rd member.  I wanted to try and keep the stock color scheme, all the while making this a Monster within a monster! 

[cobracammer]

OK, all the back ordered items from Jegs arrived yesterday.  I have all the tools and lubes I think I will need to assemble as soon as the machine shops gives it back....

Dial indicator with magnetic base
Digital Calipers
Bore dial gauge
Thread chasers (fine and course)
Rubber dead blow hammer
Ring compression tool from ARP at 4.250"
Piston stop
degree wheel with pointer
Crank socket tool
Red Line assembly lube
ARP torque lube
Nitrile gloves
piston ring file
feeler gauge (to lash the rocker arms and check clearance between rods)
Engine Stand bolts
Piston Ring tool (to make sure they sit level in the bore when filing to size)
Bronze Distributor gear (as Precision oil pumps states that with the 427 SOHC stub cam, you have to use a bronze distributor gear!!!  Almost missed that little tid bit)
Dampner install tool
Thread locker
Motorcraft Sealant (the one for diesel applications that Jay suggested in his previous build)
Engine storage bag (as I am sure this is going to be a many day event and not a quickie... this I need to keep covered up due to dust)

Not sure if I missed anything, but my goal was to have EVERYTHING on hand so this goes smoothly.

:0)

[ScotiaFE]

What? No bag of rags.

[cobracammer]

What? No bag of rags.

Figured I would get basic shop towels from home depot (blue cloth-like to reduce dust?)  LOL  I would venture to guess you cannot just use regular paper towels from the kitchen   

[cjshaker]

I'm still amazed that you're tackling an SOHC for your first engine build.
I also get the feeling that you would not be the least bit afraid if Hannibal Lecter himself were to appear directly in front of you...lol

[cobracammer]

Hey Doug,

Its not a matter of being afraid of this engine.... its the fact that everyone I spoke to wants $5,000 or more to assemble it!  That's just ridiculous.  I ran a grand total for all the parts for this engine and I am right at $40,000.00.  When I called engine builders, most had no clue what a SOHC is, but all say c'mon in and we'll do the build.  The others (who are experienced in Cammer engines... but across the country and not located anywhere near me.... are at 5k and as high as 6K (guy in long island).

At this point, I really cannot spend anymore money and I just want to get this thing build and go on a power tour!

NERVOUS as HELL to build this engine..... believe me

[machoneman]

Your build could not come at a better time IMO. 

Jay has been most gracious in providing needed guidance on yes, a complicated build, especially all the front drive stuff. Having built over the years lots of engine types (FE, BBC, SBF, SBC, then supercharged early 392 Hemis and 417 Donovans and more)  I'd also be lost on a Cammer's front end stuff. At $40K, I'm sure you will question every step and put down the tools if it doesn't look or feel right. 

Earlier on, mention was made of a book by Jay on "how-to" do a Cammer. Seeing his pics of late in this a series of posts with the drive stuff and his well-written texts indicates a real need for Jay to eventually do that book. 

[cobracammer]

LOl  Its funny you should say that!  I have been cutting and pasting jays words of wisdom into a cheat sheet for my build.  Any little tip, trick, anything.....  He has been most gracious to answer any question I have had in regards to this build .   I would guess with Bill coon, Dove, and Robert Pond all making heads for this engine.... they will gain popularity....  A book by Mr. Jay Brown on Cammers will definitely be a best seller  LOL  I would def. be in line to buy!

[cobracammer]

OK... so this weekend (while still waiting on the machine shop to return my block and crank), I decided to install the monster of a 9" rear end by Currie.   HOLY CRAP is this thing heavy.  After the miserable experience of trying to fill the old 8.8 with fluid while installed... I decided it best to fill the housing with Vavoline gear oil (with the additive) prior to install.  I had royal purple purchased, but apparently with a Posi unit, the synthetic wrecks it.  So I had to scadadle back to the auto parts store and exchange it for the Valvoline.

Now, on a Saleen, there was the panhard bar, rear sway bar, tortion bars, shock mounts, and a lovely spring loaded tortion type bar that attaches to the top of the housing ("Lovely" was used as this is a PG forum)... and let us not forget the brakes with ABS sensors...

After getting all of this disconnected.... the 8.8 came out largely without a hitch....... so then I moved on to the Currie 9".

After rolling it into position on a hydraulic jack, I think to myself for a few minutes (on my creeper looking up).... I wonder if you have to re-install this in any particular order?  After deep meditation, I decided that the panhard bar needs to be slid into position within the braket on the housing first.  Otherwise there would be no way to maneuver it in later.  From there, I reattach the tortion bars on both sides, then the shock on both sides, and then..... I realize I am unable to get the springs back on their perches (HAHAHA  the springs I spend 45 minutes washing so they were back to bright red and new again)...... After removing the shocks, I was able to lower it enough to put springs on perches and jack back up to re-install the shocks.

Then, having located the panhard bar first, decided it should be bolted down next.  NO LUCK.  It would not align properly to let the bolt through.  Back to meditation on my sears creeper looking up...... Got it.  That funky little spring loaded tortion bar that attached to the top of the housing (once attached) would rotate the housing just enough forward that the panhard bar would align within its bracket.

OK gentlemen.... we have all done it.  So frustrated at something seeming so simple, that you want to scream, cry and attack the part...........  the stupid tortion bracket is spring loaded.  I am able to pull it down (using both hands) but no 3rd hand to insert the bolt  HAHAHA.  Finally, I ask my wife to assist (all 115 pounds of "I don't wanna touch that, its dirty!")   Finally after some coaxing, she inserts 1 inch of the bolt and streaks out of the garage.  LOL  I'll take it!  7 hours later in 90 degree South Florida heat!!! Done!  see below     Next stop is the Tremec T56 XL swap, (unless the machine shop finishes the block and crank so I can start assembly of the Cammer!

[cobracammer]

I seriously never thought it was going to take almost a month to get the machine work done.  I spoke to the owner yesterday, and the crankshaft was being balanced in the machine as we spoke.....  the block was still awaiting the 427 FE torque plate they ordered (to arrive by tomorrow) and he said he would jump right on it.  I seriously doubt this weekend, but I am assuming next weekend.

in another thought....  I was going to install the Tremec T56XL this weekend so I could take the measurements for the aluminum driveshaft and get it ordered, but then had a thought.....  In order to ensure this goes super smooth, I will want to pull the old Tremec 3060 out of the car, and drop a plum-bob down off of the flywheel on the stock motor and make a mark on a piece of tape on the floor.  This way when I install the Cammer engine, I can make sure it is aligned exactly where the stock modular motor sat.  The entire package (which included a custom spacer from Tremec to work with a Ford FE motor) runs off of the premise that the Ford FE will be located exactly where the Modular sits now.  I definitely only want to pull the transmission 1 time, so I think by measuring and marking the take on the floor, I will cut down on a lot of guess work.

All in all, its only going to cost me the time it takes to make the driveshaft.  Small price to pay. 

[ScotiaFE]

I`m of the mind set that you need to pretty much have everything in the car and load the suspension
when you measure the driveshaft.
A 1/4" can ruin the whole day. jmho

[Lenz]

I`m of the mind set that you need to pretty much have everything in the car and load the suspension
when you measure the driveshaft.
A 1/4" can ruin the whole day. jmho

I'll jump on the jmho train here. 

I had to have a new driveshaft made for my Galaxie as part of my build since I switched to a toploader in place of a 3 speed overdrive.  The owner at my local shop (Erie Drivetrain) did not hesitate to give me a formula for taking the length measurement (with everthing else in place as much as possible and the suspension loaded):

In my case it was the yoke into the trans output shaft until it stops, pull it back 1 1/4".  The measurement center to center where the u-joints will be was the length needed. 

Don't know about the depth and pull back part for the Tremec, guess it would be a good idea to contact your shop to find out how they'd have you go about getting the number you need.  I do believe you need to be fairly precise though, 'specially with the beast you're strapping in
 

[cobracammer]

OK I just got off the phone with the machine shop.  Its been over a month now since I dropped off the work to be done, and it seems that nothing at all has been done...  Nothings been touched.  I am trying to stay calm.... so I tell him, "No worries, I will swing in this weekend and pick it all up.  I understand your swamped and maybe it would be easier if I just bring it somewhere else."

His reply was something along the lines of "what? you think your going to get it done any faster elsewhere?"  At this point, I do not believe there was a reason to tell me 1 but possibly 2 weeks at the max.... when here we are at like week 5 and nothing has been touched.  Am I missing something?  Your a business.  Your not doing me a favor!  Do your Job.  If you say 1 to 2 weeks... do it in that time frame.  If you would have told me 5 or more weeks, I would have just driven it a bit further north and gotten it done in another county.  WTF?  I think what makes me the most angry is that its just no big deal to say  " nope not this week, maybe next...."

Well I explained (in a very even tone which is hard for me)...  I understand you don't think you are able to finish it all by this weekend, but if you could that would be greatly appreciated, otherwise I will swing in and just pick it all up.....

[MRadke]

I don't know you, the shop or the situation.  There is an old saying in the repair business that applies more often then not.

 'Cheap, Fast or Good, pick any two' 

If it's a very good shop, he may very well be worth waiting for.  Nothing good usually comes from a rushed job.

My 2 cents

[turbohunter]

You know, my first thought/response was "yeah pick your stuff up".
Then I thought about my own situation and how long I waited for things to get done.
BUT, I had very good info on the shop that was doing my work that they were first rate.
Also in my talks with them I was completely satisfied.
In the end it wasn't a big deal. But when I was waiting I was very anxious and it seemed to take forever.
Maybe a visit just before closing with a few beers in tow would work for both of you.