Author Topic: Cutting off exhaust ports?...  (Read 16689 times)

0 Members and 1 Guest are viewing this topic.

cjshaker

  • Hero Member
  • *****
  • Posts: 4537
    • View Profile
Re: Cutting off exhaust ports?...
« Reply #30 on: June 16, 2014, 09:51:56 PM »
Yes, it will overscavenge the incoming fuel, and get poor gas mileage, not make as much horsepower.  Today's camshafts aren't designed for that effecient of an exhaust port on the FE, and it would be a total relearning curve.  You can get by with close to 80%, but the power starts to fall off, and the mileage goes away in a hurry.  I ported a set of SBF heads once that flowed 83% of the intake flow without a pipe, and that engine ran terrible, got awful mileage, and the exhaust valve, port, header, plugs were always fouled, black mess.  I have since studied many engine theories, and read everything I can find on that particular subject, and it seems to be that the pumping efficiencies always perform well at or near the 70% bias.  ;)Joe-JDC.

Joe, thanks for that very good information. I'm going to wait and see what kind of numbers you come up with and then evaluate what intake flow numbers I'll need for my engine build. Then I can determine what exhaust flow numbers will be needed using that rule.

Having done a lot of aluminum tig welding on many different things I'll throw in a few thoughts. First thing is You will need to bolt the head to a block  on an engine stand for  two reasons. One being the head will warp doing that much welding and bolted down will help a lot to hold its straightness. 2nd would be You could set the head at an angle comfortable to weld.
 Using an older tig welder with a water cooled torch and using a helium argon mix will help but still need preheating and will transfer ALOT  of heat to the head. Enough to maybe make the seats fall out. You use a helium mix when welding thinner matl  to thick matl. Also for cast aluminum it takes way less time to melt the metal so You can begin welding.You would want to move around from port to port to help keep warpage down. What You really want is someone who has a new Miller Dynasty tig welder. They have all the newer technology on AC  to do just what your after. No preheat and no helium just set the machine properly and go for it. All the best aluminum weld shops have them. Those pretty Hogan manifolds and super nice looking repairs on aluminum blocks  are now done with these welders. I have a watercooled Miller 300 amp machine thats about 30 yrs old it will weld about anything but not even close to what these new machines do. I do want to buy one but they are 4 k for a 200 amp with not even a footpedal just the bare machine. Make sure the weldor You choose is  good, see some work Hes done dont take His word for it. Iv'e tested hundreds of weldors over the years and few were as good as they said.   FEDER

Thanks, Feder. I considered myself a fairly capable MIG welder, just from years of experience. But TIG is a whole new ballgame and NOTHING like MIG. Just too much money involved for me to get into the scene. I had no idea the setups were so darned expensive until I started looking into it :o
Doug Smith


'69 R-code Mach 1, 427 MR, 2x4, Jerico, 4.30 Locker
'70 F-350 390
'55 Ford Customline 2dr
'37 Ford Coupe