Broader C6 Oil Mods?

[Gregwill16]

Thanks for posting this on CJ C6's galaxiex. This should be a sticky post on all FE forums. I found out the hard way, this explains it all in full detail.

[galaxiex]

Very welcome.

Also, don't assume that a late(r) case will be machined for the R servo, always pull the servo and check.
If the step is there 1" down... well.... you know...

[Jackal]

Great info for sure, I'd ran across it several times in past searches. Broader's 750HP unit has: "F ratio servo lever and matching servo." I'll ask about this combo and fitment.

I'll also plan on the boost valve. Greatly appreciate your help.

[gt350hr]

      I too used the Summit no log cast aluminum pan. The kit is complete with everything you need and is very high quality. Works perfectly. Mine is a '78 with a wide ratio fully rollerized setup. R servo B lever Superior shift kit , CJ high drum and governor, Kevlar "strap" band that I built myself.

Nice! Think I'll try this pan as well. Curious what dictates which levers to run with an R servo? Did you have to hunt down an OEM CJ governor or?

          I kept the original lever so it wouldn't hit "too" hard but had firm apply. I bought the governor when I bought the low gear conversion so I wouldn't get "early shifts". The trans is for my '67 Ranchero with a 545" 460. 3,500 rpm convertor.
      Randy

[Jackal]

I got my parts ordered from Jay. He said that they lost their oil mod info about 1.5-2 years ago when a drive crashed. Does anyone still have this info to provide back to him by chance so that I (and others) can get my hands on it?

He suggested that I use the F levers and either roll with the servo I have in it, (G marked cover) or try either a D or a P piston. I see D is o-ring and P is molded. I assume H won't fit, like an R. I am not sure if the cover needs to match the piston or not. Could I get some advice here and maybe a source?

He said that in addition to the rebuild kit, to rollerize w/o machining, I would need a forward planet and bearing, and I forget the other part unfortunately, but all was under $600 shipped. He said this leaves a few thrust washers in place vs. FULL rollerizing, but he said they are more for clearancing and don't have much of any load on them to matter.

I will use the white-stripe modulator vs. the black since I have a screw-in type vs. push-in.

Should I buy an old CJ governor too? ...or remove the checkball, or try to have the gov. drilled out?

He also recommended the truck calibration shift kit, and if I wanted a little more, to then go to a stage 4 calibration.

[Stangman]

Curious to know how much horsepower you get out of rollerizing a c-6. I know a c-6 draws alot of power I would have to imagine it would draw alittle less.

[Jackal]

It seems like there might only be one statement on the entire interwebs that claims something like back down to about 30 HP loss, down from 55, IIRC.

[HarleyJack17]

That is what I recall from my researching was around 20 ish horsepower. If I recall correctly a C4 fully built was still better cost wise, and friction wise...not assuming fitting to an FE etc.
In members projects there is an build on an F100 drag truck close to the top.....the poster, sorry I am bad with names, did A LOT with his C6. Nice work, lightened components etc. He may have the answers on the oil mods as well. If you are looking to get the absolute most out of it, that may not hurt.

[Jackal]

Thank ya sir!

[Gregwill16]

The H servo should work in any FE C6 case, unlike the R servo.

[gt350hr]

   The #9 is the most important one to rollerize. The rest were just a part of the wide ratio kit. The CJ governor was jut because of the wide ratio kit. Not necessary with a standard ratio C6. A H servo with an F lever is a good shift.
  Randy

[Jackal]

Do I just need to keep an eye on ebay for an H servo & cover? Is there a spring required as well? I can't believe they aren't mass reproduced like GM Corvette servos are.

I found a 429 CJ/SCJ gov. body. Would I not want to pick it up to swap over to mine, or at least swap the secondary gov. piston as a performance mod even if for a standard ratio?

I think I'm getting #5, 7, 8, & 9.

Thx. for the info!

[galaxiex]

Almost any servo with the "F" lever will work well.
What servo do you have now?

Also... not to beat a dead horse too much... but...

Here's some pics of a "clicker type" early boost valve.
I just happen to be working on a C6 out of a 1971 LTD, 400 CID engine.
We have ordered a new sonnax boost valve for it, they still have them, but we had to fly it in, not here yet.
Here's the original boost valve.

[galaxiex]

Hopefully these pics show how worn this boost valve is...


Pic 003 I'm shining a light down thru the oil passage hole, and you can see how badly worn the bore is.
There should be almost no light visible around the valve spool.

[Jackal]

That's definitely worn! I am ordering the Sonnax boost as along with Summit pan, and TCI bellhousing mount dipstick tube.


I have a G servo currently. I think I found a D servo, but holding out for an H. The guy with the D servo offered the following info for some reason:

"Plug the return for the servo and remove the inner seal"


Jim formerly of JPT said that the CJ gov. would work nicely with a standard ratio too, but he also offered the following which went way over my head:

"The chicken valve body is good just as it is. The governor can be modified by lightning of the valve.

On the JC valve body. Just clean. And make sure all valves are free. The separator plate is best. Don’t put a shift kit in it.  You can put a block in the accumulator piston it’s the big one under the long plate. It will have a spring in it. Just make a stop out of a piece of tubing.

Don’t do any shift kit to this valve body it has great calibration. Just use lighter valve in the governor."

Are these valve body kits not designed for the early clicker style VB's? Now I'm not sure what to do, all over again.