I have my 63 back after the buyer's wife said no.
Anyway it is in primer [thin] and I was going to replace the body bushings so it is stripped. i have removed about everything but the dash is still installed. Very nice floor and trunk
It will need a new windshield thanks to the neighbors kid's rock throwing practice. Front clip disassembled and in sealer.
New gas tank. New rear shock's.
Factory console with shifter. I think I have all chrome for it. Car did not come with console.
Buckets have been sold.
Rear seat is ragged but can be recovered.
Will need normal repair for a over 70 year old car but the work is started.Bolts are another matter.
I have all exterior and interior chrome for the car.
Well Have to be picked up in Oklahoma.
Will post pictures tomorrow or the next day as time allows.
$3500.00 Cash. Very Firm on price.
Thanks
Greg

Thermostat makiing it worse might be the clue.  Points toward Jay's comment about coolant flow - water pump.
is this a "new build" or something that has been running for a long time?
I have seen engines that got hot very quickly on dyno when head gasket was installed backwards.

Looking for this dual quad (not tri-power) air cleaner assembly.

Any condition o.k.

John

If people don't think 220 is hot then what is hot in a street car?

Get the biggest radiator you can fit crossflow best and bigger pump like Jay said you could try lowering your fan starting temp too I would start at 160

This people thinks 212 is boiling for water at sea level, with a 14 lb cap you are in the 240s, then add the antifreeze, even less likely to boil.  However, I didn't say I like 220, it's getting pretty warm and depending on what you are doing with the car, you are getting close, but as I said, unless we knew when it was getting hot, hard to determine why and give advice.

That being said growing up in the Northeast, it was easy to cool a car, same 50% of the year in Nebraska now.  However, almost every problem child I dealt with when living in Vegas with 150 degree pavement heat, was solved by airflow.  A 2000 cfm single SPAL fan is better than most, but if he is heating up at idle, that's where I'd start
 

My cutoff would be about 230; over that and I'd be shutting it off to let it cool down.  For what it's worth however, the engines will usually make more power running at a low temperature, because the intake charge won't heat up as much before it hits the cylinder.  I personally like 160 degree thermostats, and keeping the engine at 180 degrees or lower in all conditions.