If you're trying to be frugal, find someone with a set of Edelbrocks that they're selling to upgrade to something else.   

You don't need roller rockers.  I've got engines out there with hundreds of passes on them running factory non-adjustable and factory adjustable rockers, with end stands added. 

I'll be straight with you, dude.

The SpeedMaster/ProComp/et al is junk.  And yes, it's cheap Chinese junk, just like the lifters you bought. 

I don't use their stuff, but have seen plenty of it fail:  heads can't pass a pressure test, seats need valve job, guides fall out, roller rocker arms spit out needle bearings, distributors fail.

It's cheap for a reason.  You play the game, roll the dice, and see if it works for you.

and another "I agree"

Had a set of their SBF heads come through here last week, sent them on their way.  Absolute crap

Their rockers are known to have body and adjuster failures, also crap

Of note, the guys who are all responding build LOTS of engines.  Take free advice for what you paid for it, but we know junk and avoid it. 

The SpeedMaster/ProComp/et all is junk.

     +1   

     Scott.

I'll be straight with you, dude.

The SpeedMaster/ProComp/et al is junk.  And yes, it's cheap Chinese junk, just like the lifters you bought. 

I don't use their stuff, but have seen plenty of it fail:  heads can't pass a pressure test, seats need valve job, guides fall out, roller rocker arms spit out needle bearings, distributors fail.

It's cheap for a reason.  You play the game, roll the dice, and see if it works for you.

I 100% agree with Brent

In the end, assuming they hit their numbers, quality is good, and the cores are available etc, IMO these are certainly a little better than most of the common off the shelf cams.  No idea why their numbers are off, but you are correct.  Could be an asymmetric lobe, differences in putting a lobe family on an FE core, or just bad documentation or a combo of all of it. 

However, with these cams for the discount, you give up lift, which likely drives some spring choice changes as well as the obvious flow loss.  You give up some seat-to-seat timing, which with a normal retainer and 3/8 valves will want some extra pressure.   What I don't like is you have to go small to get overlap low enough to have decent vacuum on a street build, it'd be nice to have some wider LSA options. 

Assuming the lobes are controllable, some spread on those bigger cams would be better for a stroker but given the lift and seat timing it'll still be a power cost over a custom.  Saving 200 bucks is 200 bucks, but it comes with a cost.

On the flip side, there seems to be some decent split, good for stock or TFS heads, although maybe a bit excessive on a couple.

I would be hard pressed when digging deep into all the other blueprinting to recommend a generic cam, but if quality and availability holds, I can see a market for these