I ended up using repop Cobra LeMans aluminum pent roof covers.

Had to trim the internal baffle to clear the rockers, plus some minor grinding in a few spots.

I got the pictures and tried to post them but, they are in a jpeg format and the forum doesn't except that format. I don't know why, it's very common.

Jay can you help out?

I'm not Jay but I think you need to use the file extension .jpg instead of .jpeg.

I use "Buzz 3D Media converter" to convert and resize picture files.
It's a free download and very easy to use.

It's an older program and I use it on Windows 7.
I don't know if it works on later versions of Windows...

Link >>> https://download.cnet.com/buzz-3d-media-converter/3000-2140_4-10652663.html

If all else fails, I think you can simply rename your picture files by only changing the extension from .jpeg to .jpg.

The simple rename should work without using a converter program or app.


Maybe try this first... before downloading a converter app.

The only issue with putting 69-72 disk spindles on an earlier car 65-68 is the Ackerman angle will be wrong.

People still do it, but it's "not quite right".
The car will probably drive ok, but tight turns will scrub the tires pretty bad.

There "could be" some high speed handling issues as well.
For that reason, I wouldn't do it.


I bought wrecking yard spindles and disk brakes etc,
from a 72 Ford full size with the intention of installing them on my 66 Galaxie.


When I found out about the Ackerman angle issue, I scrapped the entire set.
Couldn't sell them. Nobody wanted them.


I elected to keep the original 66 spindles and power drums.


I may upgrade later to a retrofit disk brake kit that uses the original spindles.
LEED Brakes has several options.


Here's one...


https://www.summitracing.com/parts/leb-bfc0025p307x

I don't know what a bed plate is...
So I did a search and found this...


Ford PowerStroke diesel.

Also....
Apparently bed plates are common in marine engines.

I've had good luck with Richmond and Yukon, but have not personally used either one for a few years now.
I don't know if anything has changed with either of them.
Hopefully not....
Place I work (medium-big drivetrain reman place) the diff guys still use both,
I've not heard anything bad about them.
(I'm in the auto trans reman side, so don't get my hands on diffs much anymore)
If bad things were happening with Richmond or Yukon, I'd still probably hear about it.
I see the Receiving Dept still unloading pallets of both, so we are still using them.


By all means avoid "white box" no-name chinesium stuff.
Every one I ever used was crap.
Noisy and failed quick.
(customer supplied, I would never use such stuff)

Even a rollerized C6 is still an energy vampire, tho the roller bearing do help.
Heavy internal rotating parts. (clutch drums)
There are light weight billet aluminum drums but $$$$$$.
Even just a stock C6 is almost bullet proof, but heavy.

Hard to beat the PG for drag racing.
Tons of development for it.

Quote from: HarleyJack17 on May 08, 2025, 07:47:13 AM

Assuming you got a custom grind cam, and/or likely from Comp....be certain to check the cam bolt thread pitch. Comp can, and does, swap cores and the thread pitch can differ from OEM.
There is no data, no nothing....you are just expected to know this. At least this is how it was circa 2016.

Might seem frustrating, but there's a method to their madness.  Not only Comp, but pretty much any other cam grinder. 

They all buy their cores from the same place and only specific grinds can be used on specific cores.  It may be that someone orders a large hydraulic roller and it will only fit on a solid roller core, or something like that.  Different cores have different bolt thread/pitch depending on the use. 

You can buy a SBF custom solid roller and it will be ground on a core with a 3/8-16 bolt hole or you can buy a large hydraulic roller and the only core it will fit on will be a solid roller core with a 7/16-20 hole. 

Just depends. 

Brent, regarding FE's are there sometimes differences in the cam dowel pin size as well?
I had to ream the cam gear dowel hole as it was too small for the pin that fit the custom hyd roller I got from you.
Not throwing shade on you, I realize you probably have no control over what the cam core has for dowel diameter.
I bought a 0.3125" reamer to ream the cam gear dowel hole.

OR was my cam gear dowel hole under size?
I bought the cam gear/chain kit from POP.
It's the needle bearing machined setup.

The 0.310" dowel fit nice in the gear, but sloppy in the cam.

The 5/16" / 0.3125" dowel that fit nice in the cam would definitely NOT fit thru the cam gear as it was.

I have a good used cam dowel that came from stock FE and a new dowel that I bought (don't remember where)
and both the original used dowel, and the new one measure 0.310"
Both a sloppy fit in the cam, but fit nice in the cam gear prior to reaming.

Everything I find online says the FE uses a 0.3125 or 5/16" dowel.
Yet I have 2 examples that are 0.310"

What gives?
What's the "real" FE cam dowel size?

Thanks!

Try a Dayco 70472