Probably not your issue... but...

My 68 Mustang 390 with a CJ 735 cfm carb would surge at 60-70 mph light throttle cruise.
Tip in throttle and surge was gone.
Ran perfectly in all other aspects.

Had the oval open element air cleaner and a 68 Shelby hood with open scoops.

If I pulled the (converted to) manual choke out "ever so slightly" the surge would clear up.
Choke NOT pulled enough to make it richer. "Just barely" moved the choke blade less than 1/16".

My theory...

The open air cleaner and hood scoop disturbed the air flow into the carb.
Pulling the choke such a tiny amount changed the airflow thru the boosters such that the surge went away.

I meant to fashion a shield in front of the air cleaner to block air from the scoops to see if that helped.
Sadly I sold the car before ever trying this...

where do i find Chris' JR 8V-F?  did interweb search and did not find anything.     Thank You

https://robertpondmotorsports.com/

Top of page is his phone #

Bends in the cable must be large radius and smooth.
No tight bends or kinks.

I've encountered factory cable installations
where using any or some of the factory cable hold down clips,
they put a very mild kink in the cable and cause that kind of bounce.
So mild a kink you would "think" it's ok, but no.

Remove the clip and let the cable find its "natural" position.
Extend the clip somehow to hold the cable in its/that natural position.

This can be tricky if the kink is up under the dash.
Not much room there....

By the same token, a cable that is unsupported and "floating" in space can cause the same issue.
It needs to be restrained, but in natural non kinked way.

C6 used 2 different fittings over the years.
Depends on application. ie; what vehicle.

"Most" C6's had 1/8 NPT pipe to 5/16 inverted flare,
but I have seen T-Birds with 3/8 line inverted flare.
Some trucks too.

The 3/8 fittings used 1/4 straight pipe thread in the case, and either an O-ring OR a tapered seat.

"Some" 5/16 line fittings also used the 1/4 straight pipe thread in the case.

C4's I "think" all had 1/8 straight pipe and a fitting that used an O-ring at the case.

Your C6 "probably" has 1/4 straight pipe that uses an O-ring at the case.

Pics would help.

I have TFS heads and Hooker Super Comp 6130 headers for my 66 Galaxie.

I was able to get all 32 bolts in, 16 per side.
A couple of tubes needed minor massaging to get all the bolts in.

It was a little tricky, but not terrible, to get them all in.

thanks , I went brain dead, could not figure out what com stands for. dooo

Some of my old auto transmission parts manuals and repair manuals refer to those COM transmissions as CI units.
CI of course meaning Cast Iron.

Quote from: galaxiex on April 13, 2026, 08:11:16 AM

Quote from: Dumpling on April 13, 2026, 05:12:21 AM

Not clear about foundry costs, but I think this printer is around $40K upfront, but can obviously be used over and over...
.
https://all3dp.com/4/bigreps-new-one-5x-makes-big-parts-faster-easier-plus-introduces-pellet-extrusion/

That prints in PLA and PEEK which are plastics.

Not suitable for things like intake manifolds and such...

i guess that depends on the plastic used, most modern intake's are some kind of plastic these days. any threads needed are taken care of by pressed/screwed in inserts
neil.

Sure, but modern plastic intakes are usually composite and/or glass fiber reinforced nylon made in a mold.
Not sure you could print that...


I for one would not want a plastic intake on my FE...

I've found Summit sometimes makes or has, errors in some of their technical descriptions.

May not be Summit's fault... might be the tech sheet/specs from the manufacturer.
Seems like someone doesn't proofread those things sometimes...