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Messages - galaxiex

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1
Non-FE Discussion Forum / Re: Source for good quality electronic parts?
« on: January 07, 2026, 06:09:08 PM »
DigiKey

https://www.digikey.com/

Mouser

https://www.mouser.com/?srsltid=AfmBOopg-VDuXa7a420TxmcvBqoNaV6nnF4nW7SFkD0ea3aF_3EDq4FA

There are others, but these are probably the most reliable and well known/popular.
They try to make sure no counterfeit offshore parts enter their supply chain.
Genuine brand name parts.
No junk fake stuff here!

2
FE Technical Forum / Re: Front timing cover alignment tool and source for new spacer
« on: December 27, 2025, 09:39:47 AM »
ebay member J427 was selling new billet steel FE crank spacers.
I bought one some time ago, nice piece.
Unfortunately I don't see any in his latest listings.

Summit has some...

https://www.summitracing.com/parts/inw-1079

3
FE Technical Forum / Re: fire jumping plug wires
« on: November 24, 2025, 09:44:13 AM »
I had that happen on a 390 when I had one of those aftermarket clear dist caps. (remember those?)
I changed the cap to a good quality stock type cap and the issue went away.

You already changed the cap and more so IDK....

I also has a 65 Mustang 289 that would miss on hard acceleration.
Turned out to be a cracked radiator top tank.

Normal driving was ok, but when I hit it, the cooling system pressure would go up,
and the crack was on the engine side of the rad top tank, right in line with the dist.
It would spray a very fine mist of coolant right at the dist cap.

When I would slow down and stop and lift the hood, the heat had evaporated the water/coolant and the cap and rad was dry.

Took me a long time to find the problem, until one day I revved the engine hard with the hood open.
Then I saw the spray from the cracked rad tank.

4
FE Technical Forum / Re: Engine Lifting
« on: November 18, 2025, 08:24:59 PM »
Quote from: blykins on November 18, 2025, 01:42:51 PM
Jack the hindend of the vehicle up and keep the engine level...

I second this. ^^^

Makes it waaaay easier.

I've removed/installed many engines over the years, with the vehicle level....

First time I tried jacking the vehicle back end fairly high up, and putting jack stands under the rear axle....

I was truly shocked at how much easier it was to slide the engine into place and onto the mounts.
It made what was at least a 1/2 hour or more of fiddle fartin around jockeying the engine hoist to get the engine lined up "just right", into a 5 - 10 minute job.
I near couldn't believe how easy it was.
The engine practically fell into place.

It really works! Try it!

5
FE Technical Forum / Re: Subframe connectors
« on: November 05, 2025, 08:40:56 PM »
Quote from: Tommy-T on November 05, 2025, 12:51:29 PM
Late to the party but I'll add my bit.
It seems a bit silly to add subframe connectors to a Ford unibody without welding them the entire length of floor from one end to the other. The amount of stiffness added compared to just welding, or God forbid, bolting tubing to each end of the subframes is huge.
I usually cut the floor open the entire length of the connector and weld the tubing the entire length and around the front and rear stubs, and reinforce the factory welds and stubs as necessary. If you're going to do it, make it work. I you're worried about cutting your precious car, well...

In 1997, I built a 1964 Falcon Sprint for a daily driver/commuter car. My daily commute included 37 miles of twisty mountain roads through a National Forest. While I had the 2 strips of floor cut out and was fitting the tubing for the connectors, I had a couple of friends stop by and tell me this was WAY overkill for a "driver". Probably so, or so I thought.
About 6 months after I started driving the car I was sitting at a traffic signal and was hit by a raised Ford F250 travelling about 70mph. The car was demolished but the floor never buckled at all. After a lengthy hospital stay and then an inspection of the car I am confident that I'm typing this post at least partially because the entire floor was reinforced.

Wow! That's incredible!

I was witness to a severe crash involving a 65 Mustang coupe.
Mustang was stopped on the side of the road and along came a drunk in a big Chrysler,
and drove full speed 70 MPH into the back of the Mustang.

The Mustang literally folded in half and the rear axle ended up inside the car up against the backs of the front bucket seats.
No one in the Mustang at the time, so very lucky.
They would not have made it if they had been in the car.
The drunk was completely uninjured, go figure.

This was a long time ago (late 70's) and I never got pics.

Obviously the Mustang was a write-off.
Makes me wonder if subframe connectors would have made the damage less severe.

6
Non-FE Discussion Forum / Re: 1967 Fairlane
« on: October 30, 2025, 10:16:17 AM »
High beams on the bottom.

7
Private Classifieds / Re: What preassure to test heads and block to for "Preassure Test"
« on: October 29, 2025, 07:43:19 PM »
Pneumatic pressure can be extremely dangerous.

Google search "pressure testing steam engine boilers", to see how they do it safely.

They never pressure test with air, only liquid.
That may not be practical for testing an engine block.


Here's one example of pressure testing a boiler for a model steam engine.


https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=xpJLL4q2J9g

8
Private Classifieds / Re: Wanted 2 X 4 air cleaner bottom
« on: October 29, 2025, 07:37:15 PM »
Branda will sell just the bottom plate.
It's a reproduction piece if you are ok with that.

https://store.cobranda.com/2x4ovairclbo.html

9
FE Technical Forum / Re: Lack of oil to rear lifters
« on: October 26, 2025, 07:57:54 PM »
Just a point of reference...

The cast aluminum Cobra T-pan repro from Branda holds 5.5 liters not including the filter.
That's 5.81179 US quarts.
Call it 6 plus the filter.


The level shown in the pan is right on the "Full" mark on the stock dipstick.


69 428




10
Non-FE Discussion Forum / Re: Galaxie Consoles
« on: October 18, 2025, 07:25:19 AM »
I remember working on one of those cars here in Canada.
Really nice condition.

It was a convertible and I remember thinking the console with column shift was weird...
I didn't know it was a swing-away. (I don't think it was working)

It had a 390 (I don't know what version) and the trans was shot. Really bad...
That's why it was at our transmission repair shop.

We converted it to a C6 and also had to change the flexplate and starter and add the block plate.
Plus mods to the crossmember, cooler lines and linkage.

The customer was ok with all that extra expense.
The original Cruise-O was really tore up, and tho we could have found a buildable core,
the customer liked the idea of the C6 swap.

At the time (mid 90's) I had been a trans builder for approx 25 years.
I had always fooled around with Fords since my teens, and just looking the car over from the under side,
I knew putting the C6 in was relatively easy.
Driveshaft was even the correct length and spline.

Sorry for the tangent...

11
FE Technical Forum / Re: 428 CJ valve covers
« on: September 20, 2025, 09:33:53 AM »
I ended up using repop Cobra LeMans aluminum pent roof covers.

Had to trim the internal baffle to clear the rockers, plus some minor grinding in a few spots.




12
FE Technical Forum / Re: 428 CJ valve covers
« on: September 19, 2025, 08:03:37 PM »
I have some re-pop CJ finned aluminum covers and they did NOT fit on my TFS heads with Harland Sharp rockers.

Nowhere near enough room for the rockers.

13
FE Technical Forum / Re: RUG AJ Transmision
« on: September 19, 2025, 07:57:53 PM »
Quote from: frnkeore on September 19, 2025, 07:06:16 PM
I got the pictures and tried to post them but, they are in a jpeg format and the forum doesn't except that format. I don't know why, it's very common.

Jay can you help out?

I'm not Jay but I think you need to use the file extension .jpg instead of .jpeg.

I use "Buzz 3D Media converter" to convert and resize picture files.
It's a free download and very easy to use.

It's an older program and I use it on Windows 7.
I don't know if it works on later versions of Windows...

Link >>> https://download.cnet.com/buzz-3d-media-converter/3000-2140_4-10652663.html

If all else fails, I think you can simply rename your picture files by only changing the extension from .jpeg to .jpg.

The simple rename should work without using a converter program or app.


Maybe try this first... before downloading a converter app.

14
Private Classifieds / Re: WTB: single plane single 4 barrel high riser intake
« on: September 14, 2025, 09:39:34 AM »
Quote
How do you repair a magnesium intake if it’s needed?


Welder guy at my workplace repairs Magnesium parts quite often.


Lots of T-Case housings are Mag and often damaged.


The welder guy has to be good and know what he's doing...


Can be very tricky to weld, but it can be done.
TIG obviously...

15
Non-FE Discussion Forum / Re: Disc brake conversion on a 65 Mercury Park Lane
« on: August 24, 2025, 04:08:03 PM »
The only issue with putting 69-72 disk spindles on an earlier car 65-68 is the Ackerman angle will be wrong.

People still do it, but it's "not quite right".
The car will probably drive ok, but tight turns will scrub the tires pretty bad.

There "could be" some high speed handling issues as well.
For that reason, I wouldn't do it.


I bought wrecking yard spindles and disk brakes etc,
from a 72 Ford full size with the intention of installing them on my 66 Galaxie.


When I found out about the Ackerman angle issue, I scrapped the entire set.
Couldn't sell them. Nobody wanted them.


I elected to keep the original 66 spindles and power drums.


I may upgrade later to a retrofit disk brake kit that uses the original spindles.
LEED Brakes has several options.


Here's one...


https://www.summitracing.com/parts/leb-bfc0025p307x



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