Subframe connectors

[c9zx]

I am considering installing subframe connectors on my 1966 Cyclone. Am I correct in assuming they are the same as for 1966 Fairlane? I am looking at weld on, not through the floor, connectors. What are some of you using that you like, fit well, and work? Thanks, Chuck (S)

[mbrunson427]

I haven't jumped into my '66 Fairlane project very far yet, but I have been kicking around ideas in my head. I saw an Australian company who makes these:
https://www.ssdperformance.com.au/products/display/23-chassis-connectors-for-hk-t-g-sedan%2C-ute%2C-wagon-and-monaro--

I was thinking about templating a set and seeing how they might work out. Our sheetmetal shop at work has a laser cutter and they could easily make these.

The only problem on a Fairlane or Comet is the back seat foot space that would interrupt the subframe connector. I need to see how I'd deal with that.

[445Fairlane]

I picked up from eBay, a very simple subframe connector solution for my 67 Fairlane. Here are the advantages;
Affordable
Simple and easy install
Welds to the rear torque boxes and the front subframe tails that the trans bolts to
I added the triangulation in the front for some additional torsional strength

[Chrisss31]

I was once talking to the owner of RRS about subframe connectors.  RRS is also an Australian company that makes Ford suspension parts.  He was telling me that they tested just about every frame connector they could get their hands on and more or less said they're not worth the weight they add to the car, which isn't much.  He had a setup where he would jack up a corner of the car and measure the flex/twist with dial indicators along the chassis.

[mike7570]

I was once talking to the owner of RRS about subframe connectors.  RRS is also an Australian company that makes Ford suspension parts.  He was telling me that they tested just about every frame connector they could get their hands on and more or less said they're not worth the weight they add to the car, which isn't much.  He had a setup where he would jack up a corner of the car and measure the flex/twist with dial indicators along the chassis.

They are supposed to work with a roll bar/cage to stiffen the chassis and help support it in case of an accident. If he was taking measurements without it being welded into a roll bar or cage I could see it not be worth the effort but I wouldn’t believe his statement if it was.

[Chrisss31]

He was speaking strictly of weld on frame connectors that go under the car as you would typically see for a Mustang chassis.  They connect the front frame extensions to the rear frame or torque boxes, some tie into the floor pans, no roll bar/cage involved.

[mbrunson427]

Our Mustang and Cougar both have this style of cross brace on them. I looked and they don't seem to sell it for Fairlanes and Comets.
https://totalcontrolproducts.com/p-1612-mustang-64-70-cougar-67-70-hardtop-g-connector-center-support-standard-torque-arm.html

We have experience with this style of X brace and can vouch for this type of subframe connector being beneficial. The cars are much more solid with it installed. The middle X un-bolts. I have driven the Mustang without the middle X in it and the passenger door window will pop out of the seal if you make a hard pull with the car.

[frankenfords]

In my experience with multiple unibody based Ford cars, weld in subframe connectors that tie the torque box at the front rear leaf spring perch to the rear of the front frame rails near the toe boards absolutely make a difference in resisting chassis twist and improving vehicle stiffness.

[66FAIRLANE]

I did my own and can be seen in my rebuild thread here;

https://fepower.net/simplemachinesforum/index.php?topic=7720.0

Hands down one of the best modifications I have done. The car has never really been set up to handle with bigs and littles etc. but this has made so much more difference to the confidence I have putting it into corners. It is predictable, more stable and feels more planted. I would venture to say that before anybody considers suspension upgrades on a unibody Ford (especially pillarless coupes) they should install chassis connectors. It made that much difference.

[fryedaddy]

i put some from crites on my 66 comet several years ago

[gregaba]

I made my own for my 71 Ranchero and they made a big difference.
easy to make and I have some picture's somewhere.
Greg

[Tommy-T]

Late to the party but I'll add my bit.
It seems a bit silly to add subframe connectors to a Ford unibody without welding them the entire length of floor from one end to the other. The amount of stiffness added compared to just welding, or God forbid, bolting tubing to each end of the subframes is huge.
I usually cut the floor open the entire length of the connector and weld the tubing the entire length and around the front and rear stubs, and reinforce the factory welds and stubs as necessary. If you're going to do it, make it work. I you're worried about cutting your precious car, well...

In 1997, I built a 1964 Falcon Sprint for a daily driver/commuter car. My daily commute included 37 miles of twisty mountain roads through a National Forest. While I had the 2 strips of floor cut out and was fitting the tubing for the connectors, I had a couple of friends stop by and tell me this was WAY overkill for a "driver". Probably so, or so I thought.
About 6 months after I started driving the car I was sitting at a traffic signal and was hit by a raised Ford F250 travelling about 70mph. The car was demolished but the floor never buckled at all. After a lengthy hospital stay and then an inspection of the car I am confident that I'm typing this post at least partially because the entire floor was reinforced.

[galaxiex]

Late to the party but I'll add my bit.
It seems a bit silly to add subframe connectors to a Ford unibody without welding them the entire length of floor from one end to the other. The amount of stiffness added compared to just welding, or God forbid, bolting tubing to each end of the subframes is huge.
I usually cut the floor open the entire length of the connector and weld the tubing the entire length and around the front and rear stubs, and reinforce the factory welds and stubs as necessary. If you're going to do it, make it work. I you're worried about cutting your precious car, well...

In 1997, I built a 1964 Falcon Sprint for a daily driver/commuter car. My daily commute included 37 miles of twisty mountain roads through a National Forest. While I had the 2 strips of floor cut out and was fitting the tubing for the connectors, I had a couple of friends stop by and tell me this was WAY overkill for a "driver". Probably so, or so I thought.
About 6 months after I started driving the car I was sitting at a traffic signal and was hit by a raised Ford F250 travelling about 70mph. The car was demolished but the floor never buckled at all. After a lengthy hospital stay and then an inspection of the car I am confident that I'm typing this post at least partially because the entire floor was reinforced.

Wow! That's incredible!

I was witness to a severe crash involving a 65 Mustang coupe.
Mustang was stopped on the side of the road and along came a drunk in a big Chrysler,
and drove full speed 70 MPH into the back of the Mustang.

The Mustang literally folded in half and the rear axle ended up inside the car up against the backs of the front bucket seats.
No one in the Mustang at the time, so very lucky.
They would not have made it if they had been in the car.
The drunk was completely uninjured, go figure.

This was a long time ago (late 70's) and I never got pics.

Obviously the Mustang was a write-off.
Makes me wonder if subframe connectors would have made the damage less severe.